Another newb trying to make the jump...will this pot work?

[Justdrumin]

I just saw this at Wal mart and I was like man that's cheap!! I've read some say you can't really do much with less than 10 gallons for a 5 gallon batch. So what's the verdict? I've done a few extract and a partial mash. And I'm starting to get the itch for all grain and BIAB looks like a great inexpensive option if this pot will work. I have a 5 gallon pot so I was thinking about doin the modified version with a dunk sparse.

 

[bzwyatt]

I don't know for sure what pot you're talking about, but I got an 8-gal aluminum tamale-steaming kettle at walmart for $22, maybe that is the same one. It works well, but when it is full at the start of a boil, I do have to watch close at hot-break.

 

[MuddyCreek]

I've used aluminum. I know there are tons of arguments about whether or not it's "safe". I just personally don't like it because of the oxidation on the vessel. I'm not taking a side on whether or not Aluminum is a good boil-kettle option.

Ultimately, I simply converted my aluminum turkey frier kettle to a HLT and I just don't ever use the actual water IN the HLT as liquor. Slows me down a bit and if I ever upgrade to SS for my HLT then I would use the liquor.

Just me. I'm easy about most things.

 

[b-boy]

I'd go with a 10 gallon pot at a minimum. You can do it in a smaller pot, but it limits you options. 10-gallons is just about right for most 5-gallon batches. I've even done 90 minute boils in mine. AL or SS are pretty much interchangeable IMHO. AL is a lot cheaper.

 

[Justdrumin]

I guess the link would be nice!! I meant to put a link in my post. Lol. It's an 8 gallon aluminum pot with this steamer bottom thing that kinda looks like a false bottom.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Yes, for 22 bucks it will work well. Bigger, and stainless might be a nice luxury, but you can make fine beer with that cheap kettle.

 

[jwalker1140]

I make 5-gal batches in a 10-gal aluminum pot and that's pretty much perfect for me. No doubt you will boil over in an 8-gal pot unless you're careful and/or don't get a real strong boil going at the start. IMO, 8-gal will work, but 10-gal is ideal.

 

[Justdrumin]

I don't know for sure what pot you're talking about, but I got an 8-gal aluminum tamale-steaming kettle at walmart for $22, maybe that is the same one. It works well, but when it is full at the start of a boil, I do have to watch close at hot-break.

That's the one I meant to put a link to in my post. I would only be doin the normal 1.25 quarts per pound of grain and the doin a dunk sparge with the remainder of the water to get to my desired pre-boil volume. At least that's what I could gather from searching around.

 

[bzwyatt]

Yeah, that is the one I got. It works well. My first few batches I did not get enough to end up with 5 gallons in my fermentor, so I didn't come close to boiling over. But I know my system better now and the last batch I did, I calculated what I needed to get 5 gallons in my fermentor. I had a little over 7 in the kettle when I started boiling, and when hot break came, I had to be careful, but after that it was fine.

Also, of course, don't forget to boil water in it for an hour before you use it - you'll know it when you see it that it is oxidized, and leave it like that.

$22. It isn't a Blichmann, but it costs $22.

I have two now, one for heating sparge water, one for boiling. I'm happy.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Small kettle tips...

1. fermcap s, and keep cold water, a few ice cubes or a spray bottle handy to knock down a boil. Always best to avoid this situation then counter it FWIW.
2. reserve a gallon or two of wort and add it to the boil in small increments over say the first 20 minutes. Doing this the kettle is not at the brim when approaching boil.
3. top up your fermenter with chlorine free "clean" water...I'll let you decide "clean"
4. be patient, once you hit 200 degrees, turn the heat down and approach boil with caution.
5. turn the heat down for hop additions...noobs will have a boil going to the max, and quickly add a few ounces of pellet hops only to result in a wort explosion...live and learn
6. Make smaller batches, instead of 5, start with 4 gallon batches and gain technique

With a developed technique, smaller kettles can be manageable.

 

[Justdrumin]

Small kettle tips...

1. fermcap s, and keep cold water, a few ice cubes or a spray bottle handy to knock down a boil. Always best to avoid this situation then counter it FWIW.
2. reserve a gallon or two of wort and add it to the boil in small increments over say the first 20 minutes. Doing this the kettle is not at the brim when approaching boil.
3. top up your fermenter with chlorine free "clean" water...I'll let you decide "clean"
4. be patient, once you hit 200 degrees, turn the heat down and approach boil with caution.
5. turn the heat down for hop additions...noobs will have a boil going to the max, and quickly add a few ounces of pellet hops only to result in a wort explosion...live and learn
6. Make smaller batches, instead of 5, start with 4 gallon batches and gain technique

With a developed technique, smaller kettles can be manageable.

Thanks for the tips!! I've been doing 4 gallon boils for my extract batches in my 5 gallon pot. I had a boilover on my last batch cuz I got comfortable and started cleaning while I was starting the boil after I steeped my grains. Normally I hover over the pot around 200 or so waiting for the hot break. I LOVE the idea of saving a little wort and slowly pouring it in. I assume this doesn't change much by using this technique?

 

[RM-MN]

Be extra careful of boilovers with all grain, your hot break will be greater than with extract.

 

[Justdrumin]

I probably won't brew my first batch for a bit, but I'm trying do my research to get the process down. I was thinking about mashing in the 8 gallon pot, heating sparge in the 5 gallon pot, then let the drippings drain through a collander. After that I was thinkin about taking the bag and putting it in my bottling bucket to pour sparge water through it. Maybe steep for ten minutes or so, stir some, and vorlauf. Does that sound like that would work ok? I was planning to mash with the normal 1.25 or 1.5 quarts per pound of grain too.

 

[RM-MN]

Sure that would work ok but it seems like a lot of extra steps. I put as much water as I can in the pot so it just will hold the grains. Bring it up to the proper temperature and stir in the (finely milled) grains. Let it mash for 30 to 60 minutes, pull the bag out and set it in the colander to drain and turn the heat on under the pot. As you collect more wort from the colander, add them to the pot. If you still need more wort, pour some cold water into the bag of grains and stir it around as much as you can and collect this wort too and add it to the pot. Squeeze out all the liquid you can from the bag of grains and then discard them.

 

[Justdrumin]

Sure that would work ok but it seems like a lot of extra steps. I put as much water as I can in the pot so it just will hold the grains. Bring it up to the proper temperature and stir in the (finely milled) grains. Let it mash for 30 to 60 minutes, pull the bag out and set it in the colander to drain and turn the heat on under the pot. As you collect more wort from the colander, add them to the pot. If you still need more wort, pour some cold water into the bag of grains and stir it around as much as you can and collect this wort too and add it to the pot. Squeeze out all the liquid you can from the bag of grains and then discard them.

I was just reading that there a few extra steps you could take to get better efficiency. Such as dunk sparging and letting the bag sit for ten min and squeezing the bag, etc. I'm ok with deviating from doin true BIAB and adding a little more work to get better efficiency.

 

[RM-MN]

What kind of efficiency are you looking for. With the steps I outlined, I typically get 80% or better. Most of that efficiency is due to the crush though. I use a Corona style mill and set it as tight as I can.

 

[Justdrumin]

What kind of efficiency are you looking for. With the steps I outlined, I typically get 80% or better. Most of that efficiency is due to the crush though. I use a Corona style mill and set it as tight as I can.

Good deal!! Good to know! I don't have a mill, but I know the guy at my LHBS was already crushing my grains pretty fine for my PM batches with higher than expected efficiency.