a STICKEY? For CHEEPER BOTTLES

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LandofOZ

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I have been using the #7 culligan water bottles, and read all the debates when the subject comes up. it would of been nice since this has been brought up a gazillion times if this was in a stickey in beginners brew forum as this is the scientific answer i have been looking for on this forum. Now I can make an informed decision as to wether to keep using my CHEEPER BOTTLES
the link in the quote below finally gave me the scientific answer I have been looking for :tank::ban:

This has been extensively studied - more so than many of the other materials that we use in brewing and food so get informed:


Polycarbonate Plastic and Bisphenol A

and make your choice.

I have used #7 bottles for both wine and beer.
I am more likely to develop cancer from the fried foods I eat and the second
hand smoke that I have inhaled.

Thanks HBT for all the good information that is passed along

Has anybody made a bad beer with a CHEEPER BOTTLE :confused: :confused:
 
The main argument made against those bottles is the oxygen transfer that they allow, the bisphenol A is usually a secondary argument.
 
Culligan bottles come in either #7 (other) or #1 PETE (Same as the Better Bottle?). We get culligan water delivered where I work. It seems like they are slowly changing over to the #1 PETE bottles in our area. Why not get the PETE bottles and not worry about it.

For a while, only the "purified' water came in the #1 bottles, but now most of the spring water is coming in them too.
 
so exactly what is the oxygen permiability of the different numbers and how long could u leave your beer fermenting in each before it would adversely affect it
I ask this because of the NO Chill cubes some members are fermenting in
from the No Chill thread

Saccharomyces
The CO2 purge was discussed on Pol's thread. The O2 permeability of the HDPE is so high, you will get enough O2 through the walls after a few weeks of storage the wort will achieve saturation so it won't make any difference whether you purged or not.
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