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Well, can't really just decide to give it a shot.. I don't really live around there, believe it or not. And nah, I've had spongecandy stout once. The 5.5% kind. Gave my special bottle away.

sometimes-people-can-be-real-aholes-36-photos-2-3.gif

Best cat gif yet.
 
Is it hot water then or are they using UV to sanitize it first?

Guess they trust that the cans are sanitary coming from the canner. Just remove the dust. I'm surprised that they are not more paranoid that there are some bugs in cans. Though the cans should be fairly sanitary from the canner
 
Guess they trust that the cans are sanitary coming from the canner. Just remove the dust. I'm surprised that they are not more paranoid that there are some bugs in cans. Though the cans should be fairly sanitary from the canner

Fins is going to infect every last one of those.

Also, @finsfan ... is there a way we can tell what ones you canned?

Like, I know that one dude who packed up my honey bunches of oats from that little code on there.
 
Coffee. Throwing down an emergency office painting job today like some sort of manager.

Emergency because all the sales managers are swapping offices. Not like disaster recovery or anything.
 
Wife (of all people) making me regret not applying at our local brewery now, despite it likely being a huge pay cut. Damn you for talking me out of it @finsfan !
 
Is this the 'Irish' red you were asking for recipe advice about before?

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Depends on how much coffee you used And what method and how big your batch is. I just put 4oz of whole bean into my 5gal batch of 8.7% Stout and started tasting on the third day. Pulled the beans out immediately. So for my method three days was good. But I think 4oz was maybe a lot of coffee.

Good info. Thanks

I'll tell you what PKU means if you tell me what DIACLYF (or whatever it is) is.

That's the only one I haven't figured out yet.

DIACLYF is the only one that eludes me. I think it something that preceded the TApRoom 1.0 or a reference to a deleted thread about making the best beer ever. Just my theory. It's not on the don't tell anyone list like EAC or PKU so if anyone knows I'm...

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PKU is very Taproomish. I don't like it.
 
Who the fuq is Gavin?

Good info. Thanks



DIACLYF is the only one that eludes me. I think it something that preceded the TApRoom 1.0 or a reference to a deleted thread about making the best beer ever. Just my theory. It's not on the don't tell anyone list like EAC or PKU so if anyone knows I'm...

@Hello , meet @untaggableGavin_ScienceFiend
 
Alright beer experts, how long should i leave my ris on coffee? Is there a typical time window that i can start taking samples at the front end of and go from taste?


I just did 7 days on mine and I'm happy with the results.
 
**** hit the fan at work. Boss on vacation. Time for the little guy to make all the big decisions.
Not sure I'm paid enough to bail them out. Hmm.. what to do.. ?
 
Go home "sick"?

Hahha.. no way. Not missing this. Boss told me I was to not make any of these decisions (my job) while he was gone. Now everyone freaking out because nothing is getting done. Disobey him? Listen to other management and risk him getting mad? Sit here and just take it all in? Yeah. Might do that last one and just watch it all burn.
 
Question for you folks re: Ward Labs test.

W-5A Brewer's Test: Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Carbonate, Bicarbonate, Chloride, Iron, Sulfate, Nitrate, Electrical Conductivity, Est.Total Dissolved Solids, pH, Total Hardness (Lime), Total Alkalinity & Total Phosphorus

W-5 Household Complete: Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Carbonate, Bicarbonate, Chloride, Sulfate, Nitrate, Fluoride, Iron, Electrical Conductivity, Est. Total Dissolved Solids, pH, Total Hardness & Total Alkalinity

W-6 Household: Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Carbonate, Bicarbonate, Chloride, Sulfate, Nitrate, Electrical Conductivity, Est. Total Dissolved Solids, pH, Total Hardness (Lime) & Total Alkalinity


The W-6 is ~$9 cheaper, and looks like the only difference from the W-5A is phosphorus and iron. Phosphorus doesn't seem to be listed on the Brun Water spreadsheet... and I know from my city water report that there was no iron present.

Or should I just spend the extra $9 and stop being such a cheap funker?
 
Question for you folks re: Ward Labs test.

W-5A Brewer's Test: Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Carbonate, Bicarbonate, Chloride, Iron, Sulfate, Nitrate, Electrical Conductivity, Est.Total Dissolved Solids, pH, Total Hardness (Lime), Total Alkalinity & Total Phosphorus

W-5 Household Complete: Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Carbonate, Bicarbonate, Chloride, Sulfate, Nitrate, Fluoride, Iron, Electrical Conductivity, Est. Total Dissolved Solids, pH, Total Hardness & Total Alkalinity

W-6 Household: Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Carbonate, Bicarbonate, Chloride, Sulfate, Nitrate, Electrical Conductivity, Est. Total Dissolved Solids, pH, Total Hardness (Lime) & Total Alkalinity


The W-6 is ~$9 cheaper, and looks like the only difference from the W-5A is phosphorus and iron. Phosphorus doesn't seem to be listed on the Brun Water spreadsheet... and I know from my city water report that there was no iron present.

Or should I just spend the extra $9 and stop being such a cheap funker?


I'd go for the brewers test because I probably couldn't sleep at night not knowing my iron or phosphorus and I'm a total ****** like that. Household test looks fine.

Just to throw it out there. Lets assume $40 test on water you know has high sulphate and will likely need to cut with RO for alot of styles. I'm going to assume a 50% dilution. So 7 gallons of RO per 10G brew. $2.80 per brew.

After 14 ten gallon batches you will have saved the money that would otherwise have been used on %100 RO water

In that time (more than a year I'm guessing) it is likely your water profile may change and a new test be needed.

I did the same, I have not retested my water but to check the cities reports from time to time. I'm moving more to 100% RO as I can't justify the cost of another test.

Food for thought Psy. (Your new avatar is very new)
 
In that time (more than a year I'm guessing) it is likely your water profile may change and a new test be needed.


You might see some minor variation from year to year, but you're more likely to see seasonal variations, particularly if your city is using surface water as their primary supply.
 
I'd go for the brewers test because I probably couldn't sleep at night not knowing my iron or phosphorus and I'm a total ****** like that. Household test looks fine.

Just to throw it out there. Lets assume $40 test on water you know has high sulphate and will likely need to cut with RO for alot of styles. I'm going to assume a 50% dilution. So 7 gallons of RO per 10G brew. $2.80 per brew.

After 14 ten gallon batches you will have saved the money that would otherwise have been used on %100 RO water

In that time (more than a year I'm guessing) it is likely your water profile may change and a new test be needed.

I did the same, I have not retested my water but to check the cities reports from time to time. I'm moving more to 100% RO as I can't justify the cost of another test.

Food for thought Psy. (Your new avatar is very new)

That's my hangup... knowing that my sulfate levels are so high I should almost just brew 100% RO anyway.

I need to dilute significantly for anything other than hoppy beers, but that's also mainly what I'm brewing.

Caveat there, my sulfate levels are from a city water report and may not be 100% accurate. May just go to 100% RO, then I know I have complete control.

Also @TheCADJockey can go funk himself.

Swamp cooler would've been the same cost... just didn't do it, because I had never needed it before the big beers and the buckets.
 
Swamp cooler would've been the same cost... just didn't do it, because I had never needed it before the big beers and the buckets.

Sorry.. was just choosing one of the options you threw out there. I'll ignore any further questions. Didn't realize this was the new WAYDN.
 

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