A few questions from a newbie.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Goatey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
87
Reaction score
0
Location
Danbury, Ct
Hey guys (and girls). My lovely girlfriend bought me a True Brew Beer Making Kit for Christmas. I just cooked up a batch of the True Brew American Wheat on Wednesday and it's still in the fermenter. The airlock is bubbling and I'm pretty sure everything is going well.

Concerning this, my question is how long should I keep it in the fermenter? The package says a week but I'm noticing here that I am encouraged to keep it in longer. What is an ideal amount of time?

My second question: I'd like to hit the ground running and cook up my next batch within a month or so. Any recommendations? I'd like to stick with the kits for now. Any good beer you'd recommend for the second time around?

I was eyeballing a True Brew IPA, anyone ever try it? Is it a relatively simple cooking procedure?

I'm really excited to enter this world of home brewing and I look forward to any comments.

Shalom.
 
First of all welcome to the obsession! Second, don't use your airlock as a guage of when its ready to transfer to secondary or bottle. Many people here advocate a 1-2-3 system (1 week fermenter, 2 secondary, 3 bottle). But without starting a debate, I would recommend that you leave it in the primary until you have had three days in a row with consistent hydrtometer readings that are near your targer FG (which is probably listed on the kit).

As far as recommendations, I would recommend a clone of something you aleady like. Most places like Austin Homebrew and Northern Brewer have clones that are pretty darn close.

I never tried the True Brew IPA
 
Concerning this, my question is how long should I keep it in the fermenter? The package says a week but I'm noticing here that I am encouraged to keep it in longer. What is an ideal amount of time?

Unless you're transferring it to another fermentation vessel, often called a secondary fermenter, keep it in there for 2 weeks minimum. I've seen many people suggest 3-4 weeks, but 2 weeks is definitely the minimum.

I'd say after the first 2 weeks check the gravity if you have the tools to do so, then wait 2 days and check it again. If the gravity is the same, it is safe to bottle. If it is different, repeat the 2 day waiting process.

My second question: I'd like to hit the ground running and cook up my next batch within a month or so. Any recommendations? I'd like to stick with the kits for now. Any good beer you'd recommend for the second time around?

I was eyeballing a True Brew IPA, anyone ever try it? Is it a relatively simple cooking procedure?

If you're thinking the IPA, I say go with the IPA. Definitely stick to ales, though. I wouldn't recommend a lager just yet.
 
Welcome to the obsession!

Do you have a hydrometer? That's really the only true way to know if the beer is done. A good rule of thumb is 2-3 weeks before bottling, and only if the hydrometer reading has been stable for at least three days.

Generally, the beer ferments in 2-6 days but even after the main fermentation is finished there is stilll some yeast activity going on. After the yeast eat all of the fermentable sugars, they then go to work digest their own waste products. So, it gives you a clearer and "cleaner" tasting beer. Many of the spent yeast then fall out to the bottom of the fermenter along with hops debris and proteins, and you can simply siphon the beer from about that "trub" when you go to bottle.

I really liked the ingredient kits I got from austinhomebrew.com. They have tons of kits, and all of the ones I've tried were wonderful. They have commercial clone kits, as well as beer style kits. I would recommend them. I also have ordered from northernbrewer.com, and morebeer.com and brewmasterswarehouse.com and been very pleased with their items as well. (I live in the middle of nowhere, so I buy most items online).

Brewmaster's Warehouse and Austinhomebrew have flat rate shipping, so you could buy two kits for $7.99 shipping! Morebeer has free shipping over $60.

I've never used the Trew Brew kits, so I'm not sure how they would compare to the ones I've mentioned. One of the keys of a good beer is to buy fresh and quality ingredients- if your kits are fresh and of good quality, you should be fine!
 
+1 +1 and +1 to all of the advise here. In a nutshell (and my 2 pesos) -

Stick with a long primary. Save your secondary vessel (which Im sure is a carboy) for a batch of Apfelwein. Or use it in the future when you are racking on to fruit.
+1 to AHS

One thing that noone touched on was the RIDICULOUS LAPSE IN BREWING that you mentioned. Another batch 'within a month'? Are you kidding me? Dude, hop to it (pun intended) and get yourself brewing another batch sooner than later. Just go ahead and spend that couple of extra bucks and pick up another primary fermenter when you are getting your next kit. :)
Good luck bud
Enjoy!
 
The 1-2-3 method is NOT one of the best methods out there, even sillier than going by airlock action. It Doesn't factor in the lag time that often happens to our yeast (as illustrated by the "Fermentation can take 72 hours...." thread. )

If you have a 3 day lag time while the yeast is reproducing, and then arbitrarily decide to rack your beer on the 7th day, you are racking with only 4 days or so of fermentation and more than likely racking way too soon.

You see many threads were new brewers who do that panic becausue suddenly they see this ugly growth on top of their beer after a couple days in secondary. That growth we end up telling them after they post a picture is a krausen and it's because it wasn't finished fermenting to begin with, and got kicked up agin by racking.

OR they post after a week or two in secondary that their beer is stuck somewhere between 1.030 and 1.020....and we tell them that happened because they again racked too soon. and left the yeast they needed to finish the beer behind....

Or they rack over when there is still even a krauzen on top.

So I don't believe in using the 1-2-3 method unless you are counting 1 on the day you actually see a krauzened formed on top of their beer.

In Mr Wizard's colum in BYO awhile back he made an interesting analogy about brewing and baking....He said that egg timers are all well and good in the baking process but they only provide a "rule of thumb" as to when something is ready...recipes, oven types, heck even atmospheric conditions, STILL have more bearing on when a cake is ready than the time it says it will be done in the cook book. You STILL have to stick a toothpick in the center and pull it out to see if truly the cake is ready.....otherwise you may end up with a raw cake....

Not too different from our beers....We can have a rough idea when our beer is ready (or use the 1-2-3 rule which, like I said, doesn't factor in things like yeast lag time or even ambient temp during fermentation and do things to our beer willy nilly, like moving it too early, or thinking our beer is going to be drinkable at 3 weeks....but unless we actually stick "our toothpick" (the hydrometer) in and let it tell us when the yeasties are finished...we too can "f" our beer up.

You can't really do something arbitrarily, you have to learn to "read" your beers, the hydrometer is the best way to do that.

You will find that many of us leave our beers in primary for 3-4 weeks (or more) and only secondary if we are adding fruit or oak, or to dry hop (though many of us dry hop in primary now as well)....and we have found our beer vastly improved by letting the beer stay in contact with the yeast.

There's been a big shift in brewing consciousness in the last few years where many of us believe that yeast is a good thing, and besides just fermenting the beer, that they are fastidious creatures who go back and clean up any by products created by themselves during fermentation, which may lead to off flavors.

Rather than the yeast being the cause of off flavors, it is now looked at by many of us, that they will if left alone actually remove those off flavors, and make for clearer and cleaner tasting beers.

Even John Palmer talks about this in How To Bew;

How To Brew said:
Leaving an ale beer in the primary fermentor for a total of 2-3 weeks (instead of just the one week most canned kits recommend), will provide time for the conditioning reactions and improve the beer. This extra time will also let more sediment settle out before bottling, resulting in a clearer beer and easier pouring. And, three weeks in the primary fermentor is usually not enough time for off-flavors to occur.

If you do decide to secondary, without a hydrometer, then wait til about 14 days after you pitched yeast, that way you will make sure that the beer has finished, and also give it a couple days for the yeast to clean up the byproducts of fermentation that lead to off flavors (and more than likely won't be cleaned up in secondary away from the yeast.)

Then leave it in secondary for another 2 weeks.

But please, make your next purchase a hydromter, and learn to use it....don't rely on arbitrary idiocy like the 1-2-3 rule or airlock bubbling as your guide...they are both flawed methods...

And often you will find that the yeast have their own timeframe, and agenda, because it is they who are in charge after all, not us. :D They've been doing it for 45 million years, so they are pros...

But realistically, the only way to truly know what is going on in your fermenter is with your hydrometerThink evaluation before action you sure as HELL wouldn't want a doctor to start cutting on you unless he used the proper diagnostic instuments like x-rays first, right? You wouldn't want him to just take a look in your eyes briefly and say "I'm cutting into your chest first thing in the morning." You would want them to use the right diagnostic tools before the slice and dice, right? You'd cry malpractice, I would hope, if they didn't say they were sending you for an MRI and other things before going in....

Thinking about "doing anything" without taking a hydrometer reading is tantamount to the doctor deciding to cut you open without running any diagnostic tests....Taking one look at you and saying, "Yeah I'm going in." You would really want the doctor to use all means to properly diagnose what's going on. It's exactly the same thing when you try to go by airlock....

But without a hydrometer, then WAITING is the best answer as to when to secondary (again if you choose to, many these days don't and it has even been covered on Basic Brewing Radio and in Byo, the long primary/ no secondary shift in brewing consciousness.)

Your hydrometer, like patience is your friend. Learn to use both of them and you will make great beers.

:mug:
 
My kit came with a hydrometer. I didn't take an initial reading but I'll be sure to take one in two weeks. My guide book says to bottle it when it reads between 1.003 and 1.009, is this a good gauge?

I don't have a secondary fermenter, so my plan is to take a reading in two weeks and then bottle it when it's at the appropriate number.

Concerning your recommendation on the second bucket, I might have to take your advice. I'll pick up an IPA kit when I get my next paycheck.
 
The proper number is the one that comes up the same two to three times taken a day or two apart. If the number isn't changing that means it's finished fermenting and safe to bottle or move to a secondary if that is your plan.
 
My kit came with a hydrometer. I didn't take an initial reading but I'll be sure to take one in two weeks. My guide book says to bottle it when it reads between 1.003 and 1.009, is this a good gauge?

I don't have a secondary fermenter, so my plan is to take a reading in two weeks and then bottle it when it's at the appropriate number.

Concerning your recommendation on the second bucket, I might have to take your advice. I'll pick up an IPA kit when I get my next paycheck.

Well, like I mentioned above....the yeast do like to clean up after themselves, so if you are not going to secondary I personally would (and do) bottle after a month in primary. To me two weeks is just to soon for anything, except maybe racking to secondary for another two weeks.
 
One thing that noone touched on was the RIDICULOUS LAPSE IN BREWING that you mentioned. Another batch 'within a month'? Are you kidding me? Dude, hop to it (pun intended) and get yourself brewing another batch sooner than later. Just go ahead and spend that couple of extra bucks and pick up another primary fermenter when you are getting your next kit. :)
Good luck bud
Enjoy!
+1 to this.

I have brewed only one batch so far and because of traveling over the holidays, it's going to be about a month and a half when I brew my next batch (hopefully) next weekend. I plan on brewing my third batch about two weeks after that though, because a month is just too long.
 
Alrighty. I just took a gravity reading and it is at 1.020. In addition, I had a sample and it tastes like a light wheat beer. Good stuff.

This is me being OCD, but there is a layer of crust on the sides of the bucket where the foam dried. Do I just leave it or do I try to get it back into the Wort? Just wondering.
 
Alrighty. I just took a gravity reading and it is at 1.020. In addition, I had a sample and it tastes like a light wheat beer. Good stuff.

This is me being OCD, but there is a layer of crust on the sides of the bucket where the foam dried. Do I just leave it or do I try to get it back into the Wort? Just wondering.

Yes, just leave it. Even IF you decided to scrape it back into the bucket (nevermind all of the chances of infection you might invite by doing that) It will just settle to the bottom and be more stuff you have to avoid sucking up when it comes time to bottle. :)
 
Back
Top