• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

A couple questions about mypin t4 and pt 100 probe

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That's what you said b4. But isn't that the same thing?

Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
red on 7
red in 10
blue on 8
red jumper that you made on 8 to 9

if that explains easier
 
When I plug that **** in something smoked and blew the breaker


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Same reading -402. It is on pt so wtf


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Looks like your probe is broken or it's not a PT100. Try to disconnect it and measure resistance between wires. Red- any of bly should be around 100 Ohm. Blue- Blue should be close to 0.
 
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1392130277.139000.jpg

This is the reading I get when wired with previous photo. Jumper between 8&9 does not work! Blew breaker and smoke is it a programming thing?

I hold down on the set key until it changes form then I hit the send key again until the top reads INP in the bottom rings PT is that correct


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Pwm, that is the wiring that blew the breaker. No I do not have a multimeter and I'm sure it is a pt 100 probe


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I've been looking into how to wire my td4 up also. I just wanted to post the diagram I found on mypin's site.

Edit: bottom left is TD9 and bottom right is TD10

mypinpic.jpg
 
no take your blue and put it on 8 then use your red jumper put it from 8 to 9 the take your other red and put it in 10

put your other red on 7
Im sorry but this is incorrect as Ive stated before... I just pulled my panel apart and verified that the way I suggested is in fact how mine are working...
its likely the rtd or pid got damaged somehow possible from wiring it up wrong.
 
Stainless Steel PT100 RTD Thermistor Sensor Probe (Temperature Rang: -20~420°C)
http://amzn.com/B008YP1D04

This is my temp probe


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
I have the same...only mine were $6 from ebay... the blue should have gone to the 7 in this case and the reds to 8 and 9 and 7 and 10 should be jumpers... that how mine is wired. I am 100% sure
two of my rtd have red,yellow and blue wires my other rtd has two blue and one red... that doesnt matter what matters is the single different color wire goes to 7 and 10 I had to guess and choose the red as the single wire and got lucky with my first two rtds.
I have not tried mine without the jumper but if Brumateur says it works I believe him.
 
inside the panel i used phone wire( i had it around and its good)

the BLACK to 7 and GREEN to 10(Phone Wire)are running to my my quickconnect and soldered to the 2 REDS on probe

The RED (phone wire) is soldered at quick connect to the single BLUE

The BLUE jumper wire is clearly jumped from 8 to 9

My wiring clearly matches the MYPIN paperwork as well as the side diagram sticker on the side of the MYPIN

As you can you see my wiring is neat and my setup safe with proper gauge wiring , internal breaker and contactors


I would never would my advice be the cause of someone damaging a device, however here is some pics showing that my wiring works. It temperture is about .6 degree of the pen digital temp 50 degrees at that cold temp and is about .3 at 150 degrees

I do not what would cause your pin to fry.
I have heard of miswired from factory MYPINS ans well as pt100
based on amazon comments for what it is worth

evan you stated you fred the SSR to begin with. possibly it was already damage then.

20140211_145714.jpg


20140211_151222.jpg


20140211_145831.jpg


20140201_202243.jpg


20140211_150314.jpg
 
Nope, I bought a new pid and ssr when that happened


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I'm gonna start with a new pt100 and if that doesn't work, I might just say **** it and go back to the cooler. Am getting fed up


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Im sorry but this is incorrect as Ive stated before... I just pulled my panel apart and verified that the way I suggested is in fact how mine are working...
its likely the rtd or pid got damaged somehow possible from wiring it up wrong.

Mine is wired like i stated

20140211_145714.jpg


20140211_145831.jpg


20140211_145721.jpg


20140211_151222.jpg
 
Mine is wired like i stated
I dont know whats different in your setup that makes it work but I am sure thats not how mines woired I pulled it apart this morning and did the same thing you did... my blue wire goes to 7 and reds are both on 8=9 with no jumper... I did install my second Td4 today and wired it the way Brumateur suggested with no jumper at all and it works fine so....
 
Cheap parts you get what you pay for. I just hope I can find a pt probe on amazon that is prime eligible so I have it by the weekend


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Cheap parts you get what you pay for. I just hope I can find a pt probe on amazon that is prime eligible so I have it by the weekend


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
if you have already gone through two pids and sensors I think something else is wrong...
 
I went through because#1 I am a bricklayer not a electronic engineer and this is my first attempt at anything of this nature. # 2 the first one was bad advice all the way. Some ******* posted a vid on YouTube and I listened. No offense to pwm you were just trying to help amend I appreciate your input.

This will make you laugh. My daughter gets home from school today and asked me why I was 'playing' in the garage this morning. I proceed to generalize what I was doing, when her eyes get big. Apparently she was using my torch(teenager) for some project and said the flame touched the steel braided wire cover. So after scolding her for not being careful, I inspected the steel braid and she burnt the **** out of it. There is my problem I'm saying! She won't be making soda until I can make beer


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Dude took it down after me and bunch of others told him he ****ed us. Apparently his pid was wired backwards at the manufacturer


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I went through because#1 I am a bricklayer not a electronic engineer and this is my first attempt at anything of this nature. # 2 the first one was bad advice all the way. Some ******* posted a vid on YouTube and I listened. No offense to pwm you were just trying to help amend I appreciate your input.

This will make you laugh. My daughter gets home from school today and asked me why I was 'playing' in the garage this morning. I proceed to generalize what I was doing, when her eyes get big. Apparently she was using my torch(teenager) for some project and said the flame touched the steel braided wire cover. So after scolding her for not being careful, I inspected the steel braid and she burnt the **** out of it. There is my problem I'm saying! She won't be making soda until I can make beer


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
I here you... I actually took masonry and building trades in school.... ended up getting a job that led to a field in electronics after high school.
 
This is really confusing. Basically reading through the thread the only conclusions I came to based on the 2 main contributors (augio and pwm) was:
augio has not wired his PID as per any of the MYPIN docs available on the internet (not meaning to offend you :))

Either way of wiring should get it reading the temperature, but augio's way would seem to not compensate for the wire resistance. The 3-wire RTD (for this example 1 red / 2 blue wires) work by measuring the resistance through the red/blue wires (which is the resistance of: one length of wire + RTD element + one more length of wire) and subtracting the resistance of 2 lengths of wire (the resistance measured from 1 blue to the other blue), which leaves the resistance of only the RTD element independant of any effect from the wires - this assumes all 3 wires are of equal length/resistance.
Wiring it audio way (or not even connecting 10) basically makes the controller think that the wire resistance is 0 and thus the controller will not compensate for the wire resistance - but 3 wire RTDs seem to only really be needed for cable lengths over 100m so all the above is not really an issue for our homebrew scale stuff anyway:D

The fact that your daughter burnt your sensor cable I would expect that to be you issue - basically the PID thinks the RTD is telling it the resistance is 0 which it then equates to -401°C

Don't know why the thing smoked and the breaker triped when conneected correctly though - maybe it was just a coincidence?
 
Talk about confusing.......


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

Yeah, basically short story - it shouldn't matter if you follow augio or pwm's advice, both should work.
My advice would be get a cheap multimeter, and measure the resistance between each pair of wires (red -blue1, red- blue2, blue1-blue2) - the resistance between the 2 unlike colours should be about 110 ohms.

By the way, if you are going electric you'll likely need the multimeter to check out your wiring anyway so may as well get one now :D

Can you take a photo of the back of your PID and how it is wired now?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top