Is the Inkbird ITC 106VH right for my system?

[Sean_SA]

Hi guys

I am in the process of putting together a 200L vessel herms system. There are going to be 2 x 6kw elements each in the HLT and Boil Kettle.

PID options here in South Africa are basically limited to the REX C100 so I have to resort to an order from abroad. I am well aware of Auber but a parcel from them will unfortunately eventually land in the hands of our local postal service which is terrible and I don't want to take the risk. Auber's other shipping options are a touch too steep price wise.

My best bet for a reliable delivery here will be through Amazon so I've basically landed up at the Inkbird ITC 106VH as the PID I'm looking to order. I want to order 3 of them, 1 for each vessel.

Firstly, will this PID be suitable for my application? All the different versions of the same PID model confuse me a little.... Will 2 elements run fine off one of these PID's? I'll just need to wire up 2 SSR's in parallel if I'm not mistaken.

I also want the ability to regulate the power in the boil with the controller. i.e. manually set the controller to 100% power until it reaches the boil and then dial down to 60-80% etc..... and I read that this is the PID that is able to do such a job. As I'm unfortunately unable to order an EZboil controller from Auber, the Inkbird looks like the option to go for. Unless the Mypin PID's do it which I haven't been able to establish. That's where I'm hoping to get insight from you guys.

I also have a slightly off topic question. Regarding the wiring diagram by @doug293cz which circulates on this forum. This diagram and diagrams like this show 4 wires from the main supply - green, white, black and red. Here in SA we work only with 3 wires in 230v. Earth (green), Live (Red) and Neutral (Blue)... Do I simply ignore the black wire in the diagram below or should I not be following the diagram below and referring to other diagrams specific to my countries electrical config?

Thank you kindly for all your help and advice

 

[RufusBrewer]

As long the PID has an output intended to drive a SSR (Solid State Relay). It should be what you are looking for.

In the USA, Inkbird offers a kit with PID, SSR, heatsink and temp probe. Make sure the SSR and heatsink are rated for your voltage and power consumption.

You should be good to go.

 

[RufusBrewer]

If you have hot, neutral and ground:

Ground are run without interruption
Neutral are run without interruption
Hot is the leg you put a switch and/or SSR outputs

 

[doug293cz]

Hi guys

I am in the process of putting together a 200L vessel herms system. There are going to be 2 x 6kw elements each in the HLT and Boil Kettle.

PID options here in South Africa are basically limited to the REX C100 so I have to resort to an order from abroad. I am well aware of Auber but a parcel from them will unfortunately eventually land in the hands of our local postal service which is terrible and I don't want to take the risk. Auber's other shipping options are a touch too steep price wise.

My best bet for a reliable delivery here will be through Amazon so I've basically landed up at the Inkbird ITC 106VH as the PID I'm looking to order. I want to order 3 of them, 1 for each vessel.

Firstly, will this PID be suitable for my application? All the different versions of the same PID model confuse me a little.... Will 2 elements run fine off one of these PID's? I'll just need to wire up 2 SSR's in parallel if I'm not mistaken.
Yes, the ITC 106VH is a suitable PID controller for you application. The important thing is that you get the "VH" version. "V" means voltage output for driving SSRs, and H means it will run off either 120V or 220-240V input power.

Yes, you connect the PID control signal outputs in parallel with the two SSRs (one for each element.)

I also want the ability to regulate the power in the boil with the controller. i.e. manually set the controller to 100% power until it reaches the boil and then dial down to 60-80% etc..... and I read that this is the PID that is able to do such a job. As I'm unfortunately unable to order an EZboil controller from Auber, the Inkbird looks like the option to go for. Unless the Mypin PID's do it which I haven't been able to establish. That's where I'm hoping to get insight from you guys.
The 106VH has a manual mode that lets you set a percentage output power (and disables the PID function.) Inkbird calls this "RUN" mode (the manual isn't particularly clear on this topic.) The MyPin "TD" models also have manual control mode, but the "TA" models do not.

I also have a slightly off topic question. Regarding the wiring diagram by @doug293cz which circulates on this forum. This diagram and diagrams like this show 4 wires from the main supply - green, white, black and red. Here in SA we work only with 3 wires in 230v. Earth (green), Live (Red) and Neutral (Blue)... Do I simply ignore the black wire in the diagram below or should I not be following the diagram below and referring to other diagrams specific to my countries electrical config?

This diagram shows how to connect up a PID or EZBoil to control two SSRs for two elements in a single kettle for North American split phase 120V/240V power systems. For two vessels, each with two elements, you would have to duplicate the right 3/4 of the diagram for the second vessel. You also need to add a selector switch so that you can only enable the elements for one vessel at a time (or else you need a 120A feed vs. a 60A feed.) Not sure what wire gauge SA code requires for 60A.

To convert this design to 220V to 240V single phase input power, you combine all the black and white wires and they are the neutral (blue wire in SA.) You also have to change all of the contactors to use 220V - 240V coils, as the current design uses 120V coils. All indicator lights also need to be 220V - 240V. Finally the neutral wires don't need to be fused (or breaker protected), or switched. You just have to protect and switch hot wires.

The above design contains modifications made by @dkmag to my original design.

Thank you kindly for all your help and advice

Here is a slightly better version of the above design that has a more robust "safe start" circuit. Changes are all in the upper left portion of the design.

Brew on

 

[Sean_SA]

Here is a slightly better version of the above design that has a more robust "safe start" circuit. Changes are all in the upper left portion of the design.

View attachment 741649
Brew on

Thanks a stack for this info @doug293cz . I could not have asked for a more concise answer