$4.87 keg tool

[wvdad]

I applied all the heat from the outside. I took my time and directed the heat to an area about 6 inches surrounding the joint and then put some heat on the top of the fitting but never directly on the solder. It took about 7-8 minutes.

 

[wvdad]

After my success with the kettle I decided to try it with a Hoff Stevens kettle. The keg was much thicker material and the pvc coupler failed. Not sure if a new coupler would have fared better. I went out and picked up a galvanized 1 inch pipe coupler and will try that next. I will update later.

 

[aeviaanah]

The heat will transfer itself to the inside.


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[purplehaze]

wvdad, when I first used this tool on my kegs it failed too. Sometimes they shattered and other times they just deformed. I added a second larger pvc tube which fit snug around the 1" tube. With the added strength it worked great.

 

[wvdad]

That's a good idea. Thanks for the info.

 

[wvdad]

Finally was able to dimple the Hoff Stevens keg.(after going through 2 of the copper reducers)

 

[robodeath]

What did I do wrong? I drilled the hole out to 7/8 with my step bit (7/8 is the biggest hole on it) and the 3/4 to 1/2 inch copper coupler just falls right through the hole.

EDIT: Just noticed someone said there are 2 types of couplers. "The regular 1/2" x 3/4" coupling should measure just under 1" on the 3/4" side". Mine measures 7/8 of an inch on the 3/4 side, do I have the wrong one?

 

[purplehaze]

I had the same problem, see posts #26 and 28 for the answer.

 

[robodeath]

I had the same problem, see posts #26 and 28 for the answer.

I went back to Lowes and the boxes for the couplers are not only right next to each other and have the same labeling, but they're all just mixed into both boxes. Got the correct one and it worked perfectly.

 

[johnodon]

I noticed that caligula opted to solder a spud onto the kettle for his sight glass rather than use the dimple tool. Is that preferred? I love the added strength that dimples provides but I'm afraid that the site glass will be situated very far away from the kettle sidewall once you add the elbow or tee.

I guess I could compensate by having the majority of the coupler pushed through to the inside of the kettle.

Thoughts?

John

 

[johnodon]

Well, I just used the $4.87 tool on the heaviest, thickest walled pot I have ever seen and it performed beautifully. I was really concerned that the copper reducer or the PVC sleeve would fail but they both passed with flying colors. The only thing that I used/did differently was rather than use a section of 1" PVC pipe, I used a 1" PVC coupler. I think this has a little more backbone than the pipe and it worked awesome. I already have the coupler for my ball valve silver soldered and I am now going to do the one for my sight glass now.

Thank you so much for saving me ~$30.

John

 

[billybryson54]

I noticed that caligula opted to solder a spud onto the kettle for his sight glass rather than use the dimple tool. Is that preferred? I love the added strength that dimples provides but I'm afraid that the site glass will be situated very far away from the kettle sidewall once you add the elbow or tee.



I guess I could compensate by having the majority of the coupler pushed through to the inside of the kettle.



Thoughts?



John

I went with spuds too, two 1/2 inch ones for a ball valve and sight glass/thermometer, and a big 1 inch one for a water heater element. Everything except the water heater element, I purchased from brewhardware. The issue is that spuds are flat and pots are round, so you really only have two solid points of contact where the spud meets the sidewall. If you're going for a bottom drain, this isn't a problem, but since mine were on the side,I wound up having to take a ball-peen hammer and creating a small flat spot on my keg to hold all the solder and the spud firmly. If I had to do it all over again. I'd use the dimple tool and solder in a nipple. The other issue with spuds is that you can't thread anything in from the backside. If you are using a spud for a sight glass or thermometer, this is no issue, but if you want to incorporate a dip-tube, you might be S.O.L.


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[runningweird]

on my way to HomeDepot after lunch to pick up the parts for this, I've got a boil kettle and HERMS vessel that both had some failed badly soldered locknuts...my fault... and I want to replace them with nice clean looking fittings. if this doesn't work I'm going to have to sell them and start over.

help me caligula. you're my only hope.

 

[runningweird]

I got one pulled through, it worked great - only a few issues

and most of this second copper reducer pulled through..

But, after one complete pull through and getting the copper through most of the way on the second my bolt threads are deformed to the point I can't even thread the nut. so one bolt per hole....

and I think I need new flux....I heated the joint and it just smoked, turned black, and instead of settlings around the connector it just globbed up and didn't stick.... sad.
I think I need some liquid solder.

 

[watermelon83]

Sub'd.

Ingenious OP!!
Very nice work all!!

 

[a1lawng]

...But, after one complete pull through and getting the copper through most of the way on the second my bolt threads are deformed to the point I can't even thread the nut. so one bolt per hole....

@runningweird. I usually put vegetable oil on the copper fitting and the bolt threads. Haven't had any problem with threads wearing out and the oil makes it surprisingly easy to turn the bolt and pull everything through.

 

[runningweird]

@runningweird. I usually put vegetable oil on the copper fitting and the bolt threads. Haven't had any problem with threads wearing out and the oil makes it surprisingly easy to turn the bolt and pull everything through.

that's a pretty good idea, I ended up using a cheater bar on my socket wrench and on the vice grips I used to hold the back nut on.

I'll hit home depot and get another couple bolts tonight.

Any ideas on the solder issue?

 

[a1lawng]

tAny ideas on the solder issue?

Are you using the right flux and solder? A lot of people (myself included) use Harris Stay-Clean flux and Stay-Brite solder. It's expensive but you might not need much. Home Depot carries a small kit with enough to solder two couplers to your keg. It's thin solder, so wrap it around each coupler 6 or so times and it should be good. That's worked for me just fine.

 

[runningweird]

no, I was just using regular silver solder and flux from HD. Guess I get to hit the welding supply place today...

 

[a1lawng]

Read through this great thread on soldering stainless...

Soldering Stainless steel

 

[runningweird]

Read through this great thread on soldering stainless...

Soldering Stainless steel

I already did, I have some Harris stay brite paste I'm going to try tonight then if that doesn't work I'll order the kit.

 

[runningweird]

so it really is the liquid flux that is the key to getting this to work. I found it at a local welding place, not airgas which was father away. I got two fittings in place and soldered in just fine.

the third is presenting a problem, the other coupling I have has thicker walls than the other two I used, and the force of trying to pull it through the dimple cracked both my sections of pvc.

I tried creating a pull block out of red oak - that didn't work well.... so I just hit Home Depot and picked up a galvanized steel version of the PVC fitting and a thicker plumbing part. I will tape the bottoms to avoid scraping - they were cheap too - a few dollars. I will report back.

Yesterday I had to use on kettle for mash, boil, etc. it was a long day for 15 gallons. I need my keggles back!

 

[a1lawng]

Nice work.

 

[a1lawng]

...the other coupling I have has thicker walls than the other two I used, and the force of trying to pull it through the dimple cracked both my sections of pvc.

Funny you should mention this. I just installed one like this today. I ordered this coupling from Amazon and the outside diameter is 1 1/4" instead of 1 1/6" like the other one I have on the keggle. I've followed the OP's list of parts for dimpling in the past, but this time I ended up drilling a 1" hole, using a 1/2" x 1" copper adapter/coupling from Home Depot to start the dimple, and using a scrap piece of 2" PVC instead of the 1" PVC coupling he used. Just listing that out for the benefit of others who end up with a larger than typical coupling.

Also worth noting, the copper adapter/couplings Lowe's carries didn't work for me for starting dimples for either of the stainless coupling sizes I've mentioned above. Somehow, the 1/2" x 3/4" adapter is too small to create a dimple in a 7/8" hole. And the 1/2" x 1" adapter has the same exact outside diameter as the thicker-walled 1 1/4" O.D. stainless coupling, making it seem like the coupling wouldn't sit as tightly in the dimple because it's not expanding the hole any larger that the copper did in order to create a tight fit. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Timdogg]

Used this kit i found at H D for under $6 worked great on my bayou classic
Great advise guys thanks for the great info!!!



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[a1lawng]

...the other coupling I have has thicker walls than the other two I used...

@runningweird, did you use propane or MAPP gas when you soldered your thicker-walled coupling? I used propane yesterday and the solder didn't really drop into the dimple the way it has in the past with thinner-walled couplings. I'm wondering if the propane didn't get the coupling hot enough because the coupling is so thick. I also used Stay-Clean paste flux instead of liquid flux this time, but I've read a lot of posts saying that that's fine.

 

[billybryson54]

In my own personal experience, which is about 5 spuds and a couple of half couplings all successfully soldered, propane works just fine. It just takes a little longer. One thing that DIDN'T work for me is O.A. The flame is simply too damn hot.