240 vac RIMS

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stevehaun

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I am a long time HERMS user and I am contemplating a transition to RIMS. What I would like to know is anyone using 240 vac to power their RIMS element? I get the impression that most are using 240 vac elements powered at 120 vac to benefit from the lower watt-density. However, if I were to move to RIMS, it would be plug and play with my existing control panel if I power my element with 240 vac.
 
My experience with 240V on a 12" long RIMS tube for mash temp control, ramping or mash-out has been poor. I heat strike water at 240V but once I mash-in I switch to 120V to prevent scorching. If I try to increase flow rate I risk sticking the mash. Maybe a longer tube & element that reduces power density would work?
 
IMO the RIMS tube does not care about operating voltage, but what does matter is the element wattage and watt/density.

If you can find a 240 volt element with the appropriate watt rating and watt/density, then you should be good.

The guys using 240 volt elements on 120 volts do this because it is a great way to achieve a low wattage rating and a low watt density.
 
I am a long time HERMS user and I am contemplating a transition to RIMS. What I would like to know is anyone using 240 vac to power their RIMS element? I get the impression that most are using 240 vac elements powered at 120 vac to benefit from the lower watt-density. However, if I were to move to RIMS, it would be plug and play with my existing control panel if I power my element with 240 vac.
I only use 240v elements in both my home and brewpub brewing systems.. I'm a fan of using longer ULWD cartridge heaters myself... 240v uses half the amp load as a 120v element delivering the same wattage output.
 
My experience with 240V on a 12" long RIMS tube for mash temp control, ramping or mash-out has been poor. I heat strike water at 240V but once I mash-in I switch to 120V to prevent scorching. If I try to increase flow rate I risk sticking the mash. Maybe a longer tube & element that reduces power density would work?
this is why I use longer rims tubes with longer elements... also the added benefit is longer contact time on each pass = more even and effective heating of the wort on each pass...

I actually just purchased a 70" long 4000w cartrige heater for use with my 3 bbl system for greater heating power to be used along with one of the 2 current 36" long 1800w elements im currently using.. when your trying to ramp up an 80 gallon mash at 5gpm a lot of conversion can take place at the wrong temps before things even out if you are only able to increase 4 degrees per pass which is what I have going on now.
 
Auggie have you toyed with heaters in series like a zig zag of ulwds? Flow path similar to a plate chiller i guess i should say.
 
I only use 240v elements in both my home and brewpub brewing systems.. I'm a fan of using longer ULWD cartridge heaters myself... 240v uses half the amp load as a 120v element delivering the same wattage output.

What diameter, length and wattage would you recommend for a 10 gal system?
 
Auggie have you toyed with heaters in series like a zig zag of ulwds? Flow path similar to a plate chiller i guess i should say.
sort of... my current rims for my 3bbl setup uses a u shaped rims with 2 36" long heaters. it heats gently kind of like herms but with the advantages of a rims.
 
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What diameter, length and wattage would you recommend for a 10 gal system?
well I have use as small as 1000w at 24" long with good sucess with 10 gallons but you wont be able to step mash very quickly. Its plenty however to maintain mash temps. I was able to step mash with an increase of about 2.5degrees per minute as it passed through the rims with a single 36" long 1800w element that was 5/8" diameter... this was at 1.8gpm flow rate and nets me 91% brewhouse efficiency on my home system. I do not have an insulated Tun and have no issues but I do brew indoors.
 
I run a 2000w 240v element in my rims system. It works perfectly. Never scorched I haven't timed the temperature rise but it works really well.
 
I'm pretty sure it's this one.. I used a different housing though.. https://brewhaequipment.com/products/electric-water-heating-element
Brausupply sells a nice 240v element that has an integrated triclamp that I'm thinking about buying to try out though..

https://brausupply.com/collections/plumbing-accessories/products/2000w-240v-brewing-element
The brau supply element is made by Yuling in china, the one shown in their pic is only a 1600w element though so maybe the 2000w element they sell is longer..



I ordered 12 of the 5500w version elements from yuling like them for home and my brewpub for $16.50 each plus shipping and they have all been working perfectly. The downside of that element is ist very short meaning it will only come in contact with the wort for less than a second on each pass making it less effective I know this because I have a 18" 2000w element that actually didnt work as effectively as the 36" long 1800w element I replaced it with.

the first element in your post is likely made by Dernold

Might want to consider this one too..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heat...751715?hash=item4b594cc963:g:TDMAAOSwXB1bfjVo

or this one if you would rather an intergrated cord at the element end.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/240V-2-5KW-2-Tri-clamp-OD64mm-Brewing-Heater-Element-Immersion-Water-Heater/323410121636?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item4b4cbed3a4:g:SNsAAOSwOypbfmPm&enc=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&checksum=323410121636578ad186f99c448b9ae8592b7a3fc9b5&enc=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&checksum=323410121636578ad186f99c448b9ae8592b7a3fc9b5
 
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This is the one I use... 240vac 2000w . It's 15.5" long so it makes it ULWD, it also has a 3/4" thread that i use a reducer to 1" that makes it screw into my existing element adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789L2J9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like others have said, it's not so much 240v vs 120, but more about how many watts per sq inch. You don't want anything flashing over/boiling in there. You can do more wattage if you have faster flow, or if you have larger surface area to spread the heat out.
 
This is the one I use... 240vac 2000w . It's 15.5" long so it makes it ULWD, it also has a 3/4" thread that i use a reducer to 1" that makes it screw into my existing element adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789L2J9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like others have said, it's not so much 240v vs 120, but more about how many watts per sq inch. You don't want anything flashing over/boiling in there. You can do more wattage if you have faster flow, or if you have larger surface area to spread the heat out.
the density of that one is 54.79 which does work well but also tends to still sometimes get some scorched buildup depending on grainbill (I just replaced 2 2400w 28" long 1/2" diameter elements with the same density more or less. the elements I use now stay much cleaner after a brew. this was on my 3bbl setup with between 4-5gpm as well.
 
Surface area/wattage are important, but you can also limit output power via your controller. Theoretically an element powered by 240 V only 25% of the time will have the same heat output if it’s powered 120 V 100% of the time.
 
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