2 - 2.5 Gal batch - BIAB

[Daverust]

Hello people, first of all, thanks everyone for creating this awesome forum, it gives me the confidence to start my adventures in brewland, so far, I love this stuff!! I have notice the great progression from my very first batch to my last ones. I have 17 bottles of a nice pale ale in condition process right now and 2.5 gal of a black gold stout with Vanilla fermenting, so far, so good.

So I decide to take the next step, all grain brewing, well... sort of, BIAB, I have some limitations in home so I think this is my best option for now, the thing is, I like doing 2.5 gal batches but my kettle is only 4.5 gal, I have read the minimum is 5 gal for stovetop-3 gal-batches.

My plan is to reduce the final amount of wort to 2.3 - 2.5 but on almost all calculators it says 5 gal f water is the miniumum, what are my options to complete the 2.5 gal batches? Sparging? And if so, can you guys explain me a little bit how to do it? I just need to grab some hot water and complete the total amount of wort while I sparge the grain bag?

Or just reduce the amount of grain for reach the correct efficency? (my rough calculations for a 2.5 gal batch is 5.5 - 6 lb of grain)

Sorry about my english, homebrewing from south of the border here.

Thanks in advance!!

Bonus! A quick glance at my very short homebrewer career. IPA, Brown Ale, Amber Ale and Blonde on my repertoire

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjRF93RHl3cjY5bGs/view?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjenFsLWlEWkN4OXc/view?usp=sharing



https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjdThQUmxhQXhGbm8/view?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBja3Vkel9KQXk4bHM/view?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjR1VTdVIyc1B1a2M/view?usp=sharing

 

[redwing_al]

Hello people, first of all, thanks everyone for creating this awesome forum, it gives me the confidence to start my adventures in brewland, so far, I love this stuff!! I have notice the great progression from my very first batch to my last ones. I have 17 bottles of a nice pale ale in condition process right now and 2.5 gal of a black gold stout with Vanilla fermenting, so far, so good.

So I decide to take the next step, all grain brewing, well... sort of, BIAB, I have some limitations in home so I think this is my best option for now, the thing is, I like doing 2.5 gal batches but my kettle is only 4.5 gal, I have read the minimum is 5 gal for stovetop-3 gal-batches.

My plan is to reduce the final amount of wort to 2.3 - 2.5 but on almost all calculators it says 5 gal f water is the miniumum, what are my options to complete the 2.5 gal batches? Sparging? And if so, can you guys explain me a little bit how to do it? I just need to grab some hot water and complete the total amount of wort while I sparge the grain bag?

Or just reduce the amount of grain for reach the correct efficency? (my rough calculations for a 2.5 gal batch is 5.5 - 6 lb of grain)

Sorry about my english, homebrewing from south of the border here.

Thanks in advance!!

Bonus! A quick glance at my very short homebrewer career. IPA, Brown Ale, Amber Ale and Blonde on my repertoire

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjRF93RHl3cjY5bGs/view?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjenFsLWlEWkN4OXc/view?usp=sharing



https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjdThQUmxhQXhGbm8/view?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBja3Vkel9KQXk4bHM/view?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxkpOVGBgfBjR1VTdVIyc1B1a2M/view?usp=sharing

I just ordered a couple of 3G kegs and I'll be doing some stovetop BIAB soon just for the fun of it..

...and isn't Gdrive awesome?

 

[Daverust]

It is indeed! Specially because is a pain in the ass to post pictures in this forum, I tried dropbox, photobucket and gdrive links with no luck. What size of kettle you will use for 3 gal? I wish I could afford one but no monies right now

 

[phyllobeddo]

I make 2.5 gallon batches doing BIAB. However, I mash in a cooler, and not in the kettle. On an average batch of 5-7 lbs of grain, I mash with three gallons of water and then sparge with one gallon. I sparge by tying the bag to the cooler handle so the bag hangs inside the cooler, and then I just rinse the grain with the one gallon of water. I end up with about 3.5 to 3.75 gallons of wort and then I usually boil off about .75 gallons, leaving me with a bit over 2.5 gallons for my 3 gallon fermenter. My kettle is 22 quarts.

 

[MaxStout]

My plan is to reduce the final amount of wort to 2.3 - 2.5 but on almost all calculators it says 5 gal f water is the miniumum, what are my options to complete the 2.5 gal batches? Sparging? And if so, can you guys explain me a little bit how to do it? I just need to grab some hot water and complete the total amount of wort while I sparge the grain bag?

Or just reduce the amount of grain for reach the correct efficency? (my rough calculations for a 2.5 gal batch is 5.5 - 6 lb of grain)

Sorry about my english, homebrewing from south of the border here.

Your English is just fine.

To get a 2.5 gallon batch in a 5 gallon kettle, hold back some of the water in another container. Heat about 2.5-3 gallons of water to strike temp, then mash in. After the rest, lift up the grain bag, put a colander under it and set the colander across the rim of your kettle. Using the water you held back (which can be heated, but doesn't need to be), slowly pour it over the bag to rinse through the grain. This is a sort of "pour-over" sparge.

Then bring to a boil and brew the way you usually do.

 

[Daverust]

Thanks for your reply phyllobeddo, then I think I should do that to avoid boil overs, start with 3 - 3.5 gal of water, mash with 5.5 lb of grain and sparge with gallon at the end of the mash out to complete the batch. Should I have good efficiency with this method? I´ll try to do a flame out, squeeze a little bit and and let it drip to maximize this.

Sounds good? Or does anyone have extra tips for a small batchers like me? Remember my kettle is 4.5 gal (18 quarts)

EDIT: Thanx Max, I have not see your reply, it seems viable for sure. But I thought I should sparge at the same temp at the mash out 168-170F ? Or am I wrong?

 

[Oginme]

My standard batch size is a 10 liter (2.5+ gal) BIAB in a 22 liter pot (5.5 gal) which works very well for all except the high gravity brews. I can fit the full volume of water with the grains in the pot (~16 liters of water + ~ 2 kg of grain).

With a 4.5 gal pot, you may need to top off a bit of water after mashing.

Alternatively, you can raise the grain out of the pot and place a colander over the opening. Using the colander to cold the grain, squeeze the wort out and then pour hot water over the grains in a type of fly sparge.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Thanks for your reply phyllobeddo, then I think I should do that to avoid boil overs, start with 3 - 3.5 gal of water, mash with 5.5 lb of grain and sparge with gallon at the end of the mash out to complete the batch. Should I have good efficiency with this method? I´ll try to do a flame out, squeeze a little bit and and let it drip to maximize this.

Sounds good? Or does anyone have extra tips for a small batchers like me? Remember my kettle is 4.5 gal (18 quarts)

EDIT: Thanx Max, I have not see your reply, it seems viable for sure. But I thought I should sparge at the same temp at the mash out 168-170F ? Or am I wrong?

I've done eight AG BIAB batches so far and my brewhouse efficiency has been up and down from the 80s to the 60s. I'm not sure if sparging really helps at this point, as I've only done it on a couple of batches. I think the big problem with my efficiency is the grain crush. I've been ordering all my grain online and having it milled, so I'm at the mercy of how they crush. Fortunately, Santa Claus is getting me a grain mill. I plan to dial it down and crush the crap out of the grain and get my efficiency up. I have never had a problem with boil over. Again, I have a 22 qt pot. You should go ahead with the process and see what you get. I have seen people recommend Fermcap to control boilovers or even a spray bottle.

Sounds good to me.

 

[MaxStout]

Thanks for your reply phyllobeddo, then I think I should do that to avoid boil overs, start with 3 - 3.5 gal of water, mash with 5.5 lb of grain and sparge with gallon at the end of the mash out to complete the batch. Should I have good efficiency with this method? I´ll try to do a flame out, squeeze a little bit and and let it drip to maximize this.

Sounds good? Or does anyone have extra tips for a small batchers like me? Remember my kettle is 4.5 gal (18 quarts)

EDIT: Thanx Max, I have not see your reply, it seems viable for sure. But I thought I should sparge at the same temp at the mash out 168-170F ? Or am I wrong?

You can sparge hot, but it's not necessary in BIAB. When I brew full batches over propane in a 15 gal BK I don't sparge at all. But with small batches in a 5 gal BK, it becomes necessary to leave out some of the water in order to fit. That extra water has to go back in after the mash, so might as well use it as a pour-over sparge.

 

[doverox]

I've done eight AG BIAB batches so far and my brewhouse efficiency has been up and down from the 80s to the 60s. I'm not sure if sparging really helps at this point, as I've only done it on a couple of batches. I think the big problem with my efficiency is the grain crush. I've been ordering all my grain online and having it milled, so I'm at the mercy of how they crush.

damn i should have asked santa for one too. i get my grain at a local shop and they REFUSE to change the grain setting. i think my biab batch suffered because of it.
i am going to try squeezing the bag this time. i have heard more biab brewers say that it doesn't add noticeable tannins than otherwise. in fact, i have not read one first hand account of a biab brew ruined by obvious tannins.

 

[Oginme]

Unwanted tannins are released through a combination of high temperature and high mash pH. If the temperature is low enough for you to squeeze the bag, you should have no issues with tannins. Squeeze away! It will improve your mash efficiency.

 

[phyllobeddo]

damn i should have asked santa for one too. i get my grain at a local shop and they REFUSE to change the grain setting. i think my biab batch suffered because of it.
i am going to try squeezing the bag this time. i have heard more biab brewers say that it doesn't add noticeable tannins than otherwise. in fact, i have not read one first hand account of a biab brew ruined by obvious tannins.

Santa's including a 50 lb bag of Rahr 2-row as well. Ain't he nice?!

 

[singybrue]

Have the shop double crush your grains. That will help with efficiency.
And squeeze the bag like it owes you money!

 

[Daverust]

Great info as always, ill put all advice in practice. Thanks everyone.

 

[kurds_2408]

I only do 2.5g batches, its on a turkey fryer with an 8 gallon pot and I have a pulley system and a big smasher thing to squeeze out water. But it's the same idea. I mash with a little more than usual recommended mash water for traditional all grain, then do a poor over sparge with squeezing to 3.5 gallon cause I boil off 1 gallon an hour. Like they said get a colander and lay it across your pot. I don't do a mash out but I do sparge with 170 degree water. While I don't know if the temp truly matters or if sparging actually helps, I do know that the usual recommendation for BIAB is to up your grains a little to compensate for low efficiency and I never do that, just follow the traditioal recipe, and still hit my numbers almost every time.

 

[EJay]

My system is built around 2.5 gallons in the fermenter and i use a 5 gallon pot, which allows me to mash in the oven. I'm really happy with it. I do full volume BIAB, no sparge. I used 3.7 gallons in the mash on my last brew, 6 lbs grain, ended up with about 3.1 gallons after mash, and 2.5 after boil.

You should be able to do the same on your 4.5 gallon pot. Just watch for boilovers.

 

[C-Rider]

I do 2 gal. batches in a 2 gal. paint bucket from Home Depot. I wind up w/3 six packs. this video is a little old when refering to amounts. I try to get 1.9 gal into the fermenter, 1.8 into the bottling bucket.

 

[RM-MN]

I only do 2.5g batches, its on a turkey fryer with an 8 gallon pot and I have a pulley system and a big smasher thing to squeeze out water. But it's the same idea. I mash with a little more than usual recommended mash water for traditional all grain, then do a poor over sparge with squeezing to 3.5 gallon cause I boil off 1 gallon an hour. Like they said get a colander and lay it across your pot. I don't do a mash out but I do sparge with 170 degree water. While I don't know if the temp truly matters or if sparging actually helps, I do know that the usual recommendation for BIAB is to up your grains a little to compensate for low efficiency and I never do that, just follow the traditioal recipe, and still hit my numbers almost every time.

Dang, I never thought to raise my grain amount to compensate for my measly 85% efficiency.:cross:

 

[RM-MN]

Unwanted tannins are released through a combination of high temperature and high mash pH. If the temperature is low enough for you to squeeze the bag, you should have no issues with tannins. Squeeze away! It will improve your mash efficiency.

If your pH is too high when doing a single sparge, you have other problems that need to be addressed too. Your mash should be between 5.2 and 5.4 and it takes a pH over 6.0 to extract tannins.

 

[RM-MN]

damn i should have asked santa for one too. i get my grain at a local shop and they REFUSE to change the grain setting. i think my biab batch suffered because of it.
i am going to try squeezing the bag this time. i have heard more biab brewers say that it doesn't add noticeable tannins than otherwise. in fact, i have not read one first hand account of a biab brew ruined by obvious tannins.

It's not too late to ask for a Corona style mill. They are cheap enough to fit into most budgets and work very well for BIAB. With the higher efficiency that you can get with that, it doesn't take many brew sessions with the lower amount of grain to pay for one. If you start buying your base malt in bulk and milling it yourself, you might pay for the mill in 2 or 3 batches.

 

[Daverust]

Awesome, I'm feeling more confident about my kettle now. After some reading I think 3.7 - 4 gal to start mash will be more than sufficent. My main question was about the volume of water on the kettle plus the amount of grain, solid video C-rider! Mmm in fact the cooler seems a better idea, also I think I need a new one...

BTW, I stir a lot the wort when is boiling to avoid boilovers is this ok? I notice c-rider use just a sprayer. Stirring a lot can lead to off-flavors?

 

[bphlzl]

Awesome, I'm feeling more confident about my kettle now. After some reading I think 3.7 - 4 gal to start mash will be more than sufficent. My main question was about the volume of water on the kettle plus the amount of grain, solid video C-rider! Mmm in fact the cooler seems a better idea, also I think I need a new one...

BTW, I stir a lot the wort when is boiling to avoid boilovers is this ok? I notice c-rider use just a sprayer. Stirring a lot can lead to off-flavors?

If you do a top off as some folks suggested you should be totally fine. I have a 5 gallon pot. 7lbs of grain and 4.2 gallons of water has been my max without a top off and that is really pushing it to the limit.

I love my 5 gallon pot because I can mash in my oven.


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