BIAB gas mash control or RIMS

Ok, here's the design for a 120V 15A RIMS controller. Element power cannot be turned on unless the pump is turned on. You could make the design even more failsafe by putting a float switch physically in the RIMS tube plumbing, and electrically between the RIMS pump switch and the element power enable switch.

You do not have to use the exact components shown on the drawing. You can substitute any functionally equivalent components that have voltage and current ratings at least as high as the specified components.

Let me know if you have any questions.



Brew on

doug293cz said:

Ok, here's the design for a 120V 15A RIMS controller. Element power cannot be turned on unless the pump is turned on. You could make the design even more failsafe by putting a float switch physically in the RIMS tube plumbing, and electrically between the RIMS pump switch and the element power enable switch.

You do not have to use the exact components shown on the drawing. You can substitute any functionally equivalent components that have voltage and current ratings at least as high as the specified components.

Let me know if you have any questions.

View attachment 392880

Brew on

Click to expand...

Thank you very much Doug. I have most of the parts loaded in my cart at Auber Instruments. I am wondering if there is any problem using these switches instead of the ones you listed.http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=241
I like the clean look of the simple black switches (and the price) also I dont think I need the keyed switch as I break my brew stand down in between brew days. Also do you know of a good online source for the other components such as fuse holders and wire terminal strips? I hope to get everything ordered this weekend as I am very excited to get my panel built and in use.

Thanks again

JDXX1971 said:

Thank you very much Doug. I have most of the parts loaded in my cart at Auber Instruments. I am wondering if there is any problem using these switches instead of the ones you listed.http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=241
I like the clean look of the simple black switches (and the price) also I dont think I need the keyed switch as I break my brew stand down in between brew days. Also do you know of a good online source for the other components such as fuse holders and wire terminal strips? I hope to get everything ordered this weekend as I am very excited to get my panel built and in use.

The circuit will work fine without the key switch. The advantage to having it is that you can turn everything off at once with it. The pump switch will almost do that (leave controller on), but if you grab the element switch instead, the pump will keep spewing stuff if that's what it's doing.

Thanks again

Click to expand...

You can certainly use the SW4 switches. They don't come with the integrated indicator lamp, so if you want the lamp, you have to get discrete lamps. The wiring is the same for integrated and discrete lamps. Fuse holders and terminal strips are available on Amazon or E-Bay. There are so many sources and styles that it's a toss up about which to get and where to get them.

The controller will work without the key switch, but the advantage to the key switch is that it shuts down everything at once. The pump switch will almost do that, but it leaves the temp controller powered. And if the pump is spewing (due to a hose coming loose), accidentally grabbing the element switch instead of the pump switch, won't make anything better.

Brew on

Thanks for the reply Doug,
I definitely want to keep the master power switch, just not keyed. I thought I would use all SW4 switches but I can see the advantage of using something unique for the master switch.
Yeah I have been looking for the fuse holders and terminal strips. There is just, like you said, so many choices??? I am having fun though, I love the R&D aspect of brewing, not going overboard seems to be the biggest trouble. So far you have done all the work on this one so I guess I gotta do something.

I just found this,
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMuxTAA0eeO5G8vHtvtNWW8wHmjAQk0YX7Y=

JDXX1971 said:

Thanks for the reply Doug,
I definitely want to keep the master power switch, just not keyed. I thought I would use all SW4 switches but I can see the advantage of using something unique for the master switch.
Yeah I have been looking for the fuse holders and terminal strips. There is just, like you said, so many choices??? I am having fun though, I love the R&D aspect of brewing, not going overboard seems to be the biggest trouble. So far you have done all the work on this one so I guess I gotta do something.

I just found this,
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMuxTAA0eeO5G8vHtvtNWW8wHmjAQk0YX7Y=

Click to expand...

That's a very popular style of fuse holder. The advantage of these is you can access fuses without opening up the enclosure.

Brew on

I have been working on my brew stand this weekend. The Thrifty RIMS FROM @Jaybird is mounted and most of the plumbing is in place. I ordered a 10 gallon Igloo water cooler for storing and heating water collected from the plate chiller. I like to brew more than once a day but have only managed two in a day so far. My design plan is to be able to continuously brew though out the day. I do believe I am going to add a 20 gallon Concord boil kettle, floor burner and another pump also.
So my question for @doug293cz is could we add a switch for the second pump and could the outputs for both pumps be wired to a 4 wire plug and cable for a remote receptacle box?

This is second pump I plan to use.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/topsfloss.html

I was looking at this output connection for the pumps?
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=8817


So far I have fuse holders and terminal blocks ordered. Everything I think I want from Auber loaded in my cart to order this week. I will probably just not get any connectors or plugs until the design is finalized. Though I think I would like to use a more standard 5-15R socket for the element output so that the controller can be more readily used for other devises.

Thanks again for all the help!!

JDXX1971 said:

I have been working on my brew stand this weekend. The Thrifty RIMS FROM @Jaybird is mounted and most of the plumbing is in place. I ordered a 10 gallon Igloo water cooler for storing and heating water collected from the plate chiller. I like to brew more than once a day but have only managed two in a day so far. My design plan is to be able to continuously brew though out the day. I do believe I am going to add a 20 gallon Concord boil kettle, floor burner and another pump also.
So my question for @doug293cz is could we add a switch for the second pump and could the outputs for both pumps be wired to a 4 wire plug and cable for a remote receptacle box?

This is second pump I plan to use.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/topsfloss.html

I was looking at this output connection for the pumps?
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=8817


So far I have fuse holders and terminal blocks ordered. Everything I think I want from Auber loaded in my cart to order this week. I will probably just not get any connectors or plugs until the design is finalized. Though I think I would like to use a more standard 5-15R socket for the element output so that the controller can be more readily used for other devises.

Thanks again for all the help!!

Click to expand...

Adding the extra switch is pretty trivial. The L14-20 to a remote duplex outlet box is a clever idea.

Brew on

Ok so I made an order from Auber Instruments, here is my list of goodies!!!!! I am going to bump this up to be 20amp capable. I have found sweet deals on ebay for the flanged input and out puts. I have a Hubbell 2316 20A flanged receptical, a Hubbell 2315 20A flanged inlet and a Hubbell 2416 20A flanged outlet. My plan is to wire everything with 12 gauge wire except the DSPR120 and maybe the LED lights. What do you think @doug293cz ?? I should have consulted about the 20A upgrade before I ordered from Auber but hopefully it will all work out. My current element should be less than 1200W but I just want to be ready to move up if I need to. I have room to put a dedicated 20A brewing circuit in if I want so......




1 x Illuminated Short Profile 22mm Selector, maintained (SW16) = $13.98
Switch Type Option Selector, Maintained Action
Block Option 2 NO
Power Voltage Option 120V AC/DC
LED Color Option Green
1 x Illuminated Short Profile 22mm Selector, maintained (SW16) = $13.98
Switch Type Option Selector, Maintained Action
Block Option 2 NO
Power Voltage Option 120V AC/DC
LED Color Option Red
1 x Contactor, 2 pole, 30/40 A, 120V Coil (CN-PBC302-120V) = $12.59
1 x 40A SSR (MGR-1D4840) = $15.50
1 x Illuminated Short Profile 22mm Selector, maintained (SW16) = $13.98
Switch Type Option Selector, Maintained Action
Block Option 2 NO
Power Voltage Option 120V AC/DC
LED Color Option Blue
1 x EZboil, Power Regulator for Boiling Process Automation (DSPR120) =
$46.95
Model Option DSPR120
1 x LED Indicator, 22 mm, 120/240V (IND-1) = $3.45
Power Voltage Option 120V AC/DC
LED Color Option Red
1 x Illuminated Short Profile 22mm Selector, maintained (SW16) = $13.98
Switch Type Option Selector, Maintained Action
Block Option 2 NO
Power Voltage Option 120V AC/DC
LED Color Option Yellow
1 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 6 in, 1/2 NPT Thread (PT100-L1501/2NPT) =
$48.35
Cable Option 8 ft Braided Cable with XLRCON connector/cable
1 x Wall Mount Box for Single Controller 10x8x6" (B252015) = $60.00
Hanger Option Without Hanger
Heatsink Option With 40A Heatsink (BHS40A)
Precut Option With factory precut for 1 x 1/16 DIN controller

JDXX1971 said:

Ok so I made an order from Auber Instruments, here is my list of goodies!!!!! I am going to bump this up to be 20amp capable. I have found sweet deals on ebay for the flanged input and out puts. I have a Hubbell 2316 20A flanged receptical, a Hubbell 2315 20A flanged inlet and a Hubbell 2416 20A flanged outlet. My plan is to wire everything with 12 gauge wire except the DSPR120 and maybe the LED lights. What do you think @doug293cz ?? I should have consulted about the 20A upgrade before I ordered from Auber but hopefully it will all work out. My current element should be less than 1200W but I just want to be ready to move up if I need to. I have room to put a dedicated 20A brewing circuit in if I want so......

Click to expand...

No problem. Changing the 14AWG wire to 12AWG wire, and the plugs/receptacles from L5-15's to L5-20's is all you need to do to make it 20A ready.

Brew on

Ok I got a super dummy question. How do I tell which side of the switches is which and does it matter which way they are wired? Same question for the Contactor?

JDXX1971 said:

Ok I got a super dummy question. How do I tell which side of the switches is which and does it matter which way they are wired? Same question for the Contactor?

Click to expand...

It doesn't matter which side of the switch/contactor you connect the load to, or which side you connect the incoming power to.

Brew on

I figured as much but was not sure. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

Another question, would it be ok to put the 1A fuse for the contactor after the element power switch but before the contactor? Seems like it should be fine, but again I am not sure.

JDXX1971 said:

I figured as much but was not sure. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

Another question, would it be ok to put the 1A fuse for the contactor after the element power switch but before the contactor? Seems like it should be fine, but again I am not sure.

Click to expand...

The fuses go in where the wire size drops. The 10A fuse will protect all the 16AWG wiring. If you use 16AWG instead of finer wire where finer is shown, then neither of the 1A fuses is needed. I show using finer wire where it can be used, as it is easier to work with, but you don't have to use the finer wiring.

Brew on

doug293cz said:

Ok, here's the design for a 120V 15A RIMS controller. Element power cannot be turned on unless the pump is turned on. You could make the design even more failsafe by putting a float switch physically in the RIMS tube plumbing, and electrically between the RIMS pump switch and the element power enable switch.

You do not have to use the exact components shown on the drawing. You can substitute any functionally equivalent components that have voltage and current ratings at least as high as the specified components.

Let me know if you have any questions.

View attachment 392880

Brew on

Click to expand...

A big giant THANK YOU!!! @doug293cz
My controller is complete and up and running right now. Dang that was a lot of wire in there. I have never built anything like this and I have built a lot of stuff being a carpenter for 20 years. I tried to approach it just like any other project. Having a nice set of plans is always super helpful. Help with questions= Priceless!! I really enjoyed building this controller, it was super fun and an awesome learning experience.

doug293cz said:

The fuses go in where the wire size drops. The 10A fuse will protect all the 16AWG wiring.

If you use 16AWG instead of finer wire where finer is shown, then neither of the 1A fuses is needed.

Click to expand...

I show using finer wire where it can be used, as it is easier to work with, but you don't have to use the finer wiring.

Brew on

Click to expand...

Yeah, finer wiring that would have been nice. Not having any experience with electronic devices I thought I would be fine using some nice wire I had left over from a project on my boat, so most of it is 14 GA and some 18. I have to take it back apart for paint so I may change the wire size on a few things. The fuse holders are already installed in the box (drilled through) so I might as well take advantage of them and cut down on some bulk.

Thanks again, I couldn't have done it without you.:rockin::rockin:

Oh and so far with my 1200W element the temp has risen from 54 to 130 degrees in two hours. I think this system is going to work perfect for my intentions.

Pics of the controller coming soon!!!!

JDXX1971 said:

A big giant THANK YOU!!! @doug293cz
My controller is complete and up and running right now. Dang that was a lot of wire in there. I have never built anything like this and I have built a lot of stuff being a carpenter for 20 years. I tried to approach it just like any other project. Having a nice set of plans is always super helpful. Help with questions= Priceless!! I really enjoyed building this controller, it was super fun and an awesome learning experience.







Yeah, finer wiring that would have been nice. Not having any experience with electronic devices I thought I would be fine using some nice wire I had left over from a project on my boat, so most of it is 14 GA and some 18. I have to take it back apart for paint so I may change the wire size on a few things. The fuse holders are already installed in the box (drilled through) so I might as well take advantage of them and cut down on some bulk.

Thanks again, I couldn't have done it without you.:rockin::rockin:

Oh and so far with my 1200W element the temp has risen from 54 to 130 degrees in two hours. I think this system is going to work perfect for my intentions.

Pics of the controller coming soon!!!!

Click to expand...

You are welcome. Glad to get a report of a successful build! Looking forward to the pics. Enjoy brewing with your new system.

Brew on

Here is my controller in its current state. I still need to strip it down for paint but I have tested it as is and it works great!! There are a few small changes I will make to tidy it up and change the element light from red to yellow. I have to say it was a challenge getting everything in there but I did it!!!

Never mind, I misinterpreted the photos.

doug293cz said:

Never mind, I misinterpreted the photos.

Click to expand...

Uh oh, what I do???

Just joking, I checked double checked checked again and then followed everything again. I did do one thing I wasn't sure about, using the contactor as a terminal block but it seemed like a good place to free up some space.

Thanks again Doug

JDXX1971 said:

Uh oh, what I do???

Just joking, I checked double checked checked again and then followed everything again. I did do one thing I wasn't sure about, using the contactor as a terminal block but it seemed like a good place to free up some space.

Thanks again Doug

Click to expand...

You didn't do anything wrong, as far as I can see. Multiple wires on device terminals is accepted practice.

I didn't initially see that your power input plug was on the side of the enclosure (nothing wrong with this) instead of on the bottom, where most people put them. I drew an improper inference from this (alcohol consumption may have been involved.)

Brew on

Yeah I thought I was going to fit all three in/outlets on the bottom but was not gonna happen so I put it where it would fit. Sure seemed tight in there but I love the compact size of it, the bummer is there is no room for any more switches or gizmos.

I have been looking at Float\flow switches as I really want to add this safety feature. I just have not been quite satisfied with anything I have came up with so far. Did you have anything particular in mind when you mentioned it?

As for the influence of alcohol, I am trying to catch up.......

JDXX1971 said:

Yeah I thought I was going to fit all three in/outlets on the bottom but was not gonna happen so I put it where it would fit. Sure seemed tight in there but I love the compact size of it, the bummer is there is no room for any more switches or gizmos.

I have been looking at Float\flow switches as I really want to add this safety feature. I just have not been quite satisfied with anything I have came up with so far. Did you have anything particular in mind when you mentioned it?

As for the influence of alcohol, I am trying to catch up.......

Click to expand...

No, I haven't found any float or flow switches that I feel comfortable recommending to anyone else.

Brew on

Ive been using this float switch in my HLT for about 3 years now and its saved me from dry firing more than a few times.. Its all stainless. I did rotate the magnet I believe so it works facing up

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Wired...592933c&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=232094989586

I use this flow switch in my rims for about that long as well... I did modify the float/reed switch to allow more flow. but I only use small DC pumps and pump with 1.8 gallons per minute when recirculating my mash so..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RDEXP-Stain...637952?hash=item3f6272ea80:g:BmEAAOSwOyJX6cIk
both of these are food grade I checked the manufacturers site on the flow switch the plastic they encapsulate the reed magnet in is food grade.

doug293cz said:

Ok, here's the design for a 120V 15A RIMS controller. Element power cannot be turned on unless the pump is turned on. You could make the design even more failsafe by putting a float switch physically in the RIMS tube plumbing, and electrically between the RIMS pump switch and the element power enable switch.



You do not have to use the exact components shown on the drawing. You can substitute any functionally equivalent components that have voltage and current ratings at least as high as the specified components.



Let me know if you have any questions.



View attachment 392880



Brew on

Click to expand...

I just built this, thank you, your schematic helped a lot!
Now to figure out how to use it............

autonomist3k said:

I just built this, thank you, your schematic helped a lot!
Now to figure out how to use it............

Click to expand...

You're welcome. Post some picks of your first brew day.

Brew on

autonomist3k said:

I just built this, thank you, your schematic helped a lot!
Now to figure out how to use it............

Click to expand...

Picture or it didn't happen.....You know.

Doug pointed out that I used a pid, not an ez boil like the schematic uses, the only difference for wiring is the ssr terminals are different.
In this picture the power in worrying isn't installed yet and the enclosure isn't grounded.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502374714.562483.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502374744.971923.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502374776.392207.jpg

I actually used an old first aid kit as the enclosure.

autonomist3k said:

I actually used an old first aid kit as the enclosure.

Click to expand...

I was wondering what that was. Looks nice, much roomier than mine.