BIAB gas mash control or RIMS

[doug293cz]

Ok I got a super dummy question. How do I tell which side of the switches is which and does it matter which way they are wired? Same question for the Contactor?

It doesn't matter which side of the switch/contactor you connect the load to, or which side you connect the incoming power to.

Brew on

 

[JDXX1971]

I figured as much but was not sure. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

Another question, would it be ok to put the 1A fuse for the contactor after the element power switch but before the contactor? Seems like it should be fine, but again I am not sure.

 

[doug293cz]

I figured as much but was not sure. Thank you for clearing that up for me.

Another question, would it be ok to put the 1A fuse for the contactor after the element power switch but before the contactor? Seems like it should be fine, but again I am not sure.

The fuses go in where the wire size drops. The 10A fuse will protect all the 16AWG wiring. If you use 16AWG instead of finer wire where finer is shown, then neither of the 1A fuses is needed. I show using finer wire where it can be used, as it is easier to work with, but you don't have to use the finer wiring.

Brew on

 

[JDXX1971]

Ok, here's the design for a 120V 15A RIMS controller. Element power cannot be turned on unless the pump is turned on. You could make the design even more failsafe by putting a float switch physically in the RIMS tube plumbing, and electrically between the RIMS pump switch and the element power enable switch.

You do not have to use the exact components shown on the drawing. You can substitute any functionally equivalent components that have voltage and current ratings at least as high as the specified components.

Let me know if you have any questions.

View attachment 392880

Brew on

A big giant THANK YOU!!! @doug293cz
My controller is complete and up and running right now. Dang that was a lot of wire in there. I have never built anything like this and I have built a lot of stuff being a carpenter for 20 years. I tried to approach it just like any other project. Having a nice set of plans is always super helpful. Help with questions= Priceless!! I really enjoyed building this controller, it was super fun and an awesome learning experience.

The fuses go in where the wire size drops. The 10A fuse will protect all the 16AWG wiring.

If you use 16AWG instead of finer wire where finer is shown, then neither of the 1A fuses is needed.

I show using finer wire where it can be used, as it is easier to work with, but you don't have to use the finer wiring.

Brew on

Yeah, finer wiring that would have been nice. Not having any experience with electronic devices I thought I would be fine using some nice wire I had left over from a project on my boat, so most of it is 14 GA and some 18. I have to take it back apart for paint so I may change the wire size on a few things. The fuse holders are already installed in the box (drilled through) so I might as well take advantage of them and cut down on some bulk.

Thanks again, I couldn't have done it without you.:rockin::rockin:

Oh and so far with my 1200W element the temp has risen from 54 to 130 degrees in two hours. I think this system is going to work perfect for my intentions.

Pics of the controller coming soon!!!!

 

[doug293cz]

A big giant THANK YOU!!! @doug293cz
My controller is complete and up and running right now. Dang that was a lot of wire in there. I have never built anything like this and I have built a lot of stuff being a carpenter for 20 years. I tried to approach it just like any other project. Having a nice set of plans is always super helpful. Help with questions= Priceless!! I really enjoyed building this controller, it was super fun and an awesome learning experience.







Yeah, finer wiring that would have been nice. Not having any experience with electronic devices I thought I would be fine using some nice wire I had left over from a project on my boat, so most of it is 14 GA and some 18. I have to take it back apart for paint so I may change the wire size on a few things. The fuse holders are already installed in the box (drilled through) so I might as well take advantage of them and cut down on some bulk.

Thanks again, I couldn't have done it without you.:rockin::rockin:

Oh and so far with my 1200W element the temp has risen from 54 to 130 degrees in two hours. I think this system is going to work perfect for my intentions.

Pics of the controller coming soon!!!!

You are welcome. Glad to get a report of a successful build! Looking forward to the pics. Enjoy brewing with your new system.

Brew on

 

[JDXX1971]

Here is my controller in its current state. I still need to strip it down for paint but I have tested it as is and it works great!! There are a few small changes I will make to tidy it up and change the element light from red to yellow. I have to say it was a challenge getting everything in there but I did it!!!

 

[doug293cz]

Never mind, I misinterpreted the photos.

 

[JDXX1971]

Never mind, I misinterpreted the photos.

Uh oh, what I do???

Just joking, I checked double checked checked again and then followed everything again. I did do one thing I wasn't sure about, using the contactor as a terminal block but it seemed like a good place to free up some space.

Thanks again Doug

 

[doug293cz]

Uh oh, what I do???

Just joking, I checked double checked checked again and then followed everything again. I did do one thing I wasn't sure about, using the contactor as a terminal block but it seemed like a good place to free up some space.

Thanks again Doug

You didn't do anything wrong, as far as I can see. Multiple wires on device terminals is accepted practice.

I didn't initially see that your power input plug was on the side of the enclosure (nothing wrong with this) instead of on the bottom, where most people put them. I drew an improper inference from this (alcohol consumption may have been involved.)

Brew on

 

[JDXX1971]

Yeah I thought I was going to fit all three in/outlets on the bottom but was not gonna happen so I put it where it would fit. Sure seemed tight in there but I love the compact size of it, the bummer is there is no room for any more switches or gizmos.

I have been looking at Float\flow switches as I really want to add this safety feature. I just have not been quite satisfied with anything I have came up with so far. Did you have anything particular in mind when you mentioned it?

As for the influence of alcohol, I am trying to catch up.......

 

[doug293cz]

Yeah I thought I was going to fit all three in/outlets on the bottom but was not gonna happen so I put it where it would fit. Sure seemed tight in there but I love the compact size of it, the bummer is there is no room for any more switches or gizmos.

I have been looking at Float\flow switches as I really want to add this safety feature. I just have not been quite satisfied with anything I have came up with so far. Did you have anything particular in mind when you mentioned it?

As for the influence of alcohol, I am trying to catch up.......

No, I haven't found any float or flow switches that I feel comfortable recommending to anyone else.

Brew on

 

[augiedoggy]

Ive been using this float switch in my HLT for about 3 years now and its saved me from dry firing more than a few times.. Its all stainless. I did rotate the magnet I believe so it works facing up

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Wired...592933c&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=232094989586

I use this flow switch in my rims for about that long as well... I did modify the float/reed switch to allow more flow. but I only use small DC pumps and pump with 1.8 gallons per minute when recirculating my mash so..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RDEXP-Stain...637952?hash=item3f6272ea80:g:BmEAAOSwOyJX6cIk
both of these are food grade I checked the manufacturers site on the flow switch the plastic they encapsulate the reed magnet in is food grade.

 

[autonomist3k]

Ok, here's the design for a 120V 15A RIMS controller. Element power cannot be turned on unless the pump is turned on. You could make the design even more failsafe by putting a float switch physically in the RIMS tube plumbing, and electrically between the RIMS pump switch and the element power enable switch.



You do not have to use the exact components shown on the drawing. You can substitute any functionally equivalent components that have voltage and current ratings at least as high as the specified components.



Let me know if you have any questions.



View attachment 392880



Brew on

I just built this, thank you, your schematic helped a lot!
Now to figure out how to use it............

 

[doug293cz]

I just built this, thank you, your schematic helped a lot!
Now to figure out how to use it............

You're welcome. Post some picks of your first brew day.

Brew on

 

[JDXX1971]

I just built this, thank you, your schematic helped a lot!
Now to figure out how to use it............

Picture or it didn't happen.....You know.

 

[autonomist3k]

Doug pointed out that I used a pid, not an ez boil like the schematic uses, the only difference for wiring is the ssr terminals are different.
In this picture the power in worrying isn't installed yet and the enclosure isn't grounded.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502374714.562483.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502374744.971923.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502374776.392207.jpg

 

[autonomist3k]

I actually used an old first aid kit as the enclosure.

 

[JDXX1971]

I actually used an old first aid kit as the enclosure.

I was wondering what that was. Looks nice, much roomier than mine.