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I haven't used Taprite or the cheaper ones they have but the cheap regulators I got from Midwest are garbage compared to the Cornelius regulators I use now.

10 gallons IPA, 5 gallon Vienna Lager and Five gallons of a Belgian. I need to brew something dark this weekend.

Thick and creamy is exactly what it can do.

I've used maltodextrin. I think if you used malt it would taste too worty.

love this **** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW-kV_G-rEQ

I mill my own at .030 and double vs single is just 3-5% different, so I single batch sparge. Half the run off from the strike and half from the sparge. I tend to mash close to 2 qt/lb for normal gravity beers and my BHE is 85%. Getting better sparge efficiency is really not good for the final...

I've only seen one and I'm sure they are not all the same. Your right it only needs one mash tun but both need to be able to boil.

There are basically two kettles/mash tuns. The mash is started in one. After a rest the more liquid part is pumped over to the other kettle and continued to rest while the thick part boils. The thin part is pumped back for the next rest and so on until mash out when only the thin part is boiled...

It helps drop the yeast. If your trying to turn it over quick it helps.

I didn't need rice hulls. Popcorn drains quite well. I'd just use pound for pound.

Weyermann list it as 130L-170L. It is not near as strong flavored as special B is. http://www.weyermann.de/rus/bmprodukte_neu.asp?idkat=223&umenue=yes&idmenue=182&sprache=8

The regulator will thread on but it wont open the pin valve. That's all the adapters do. I have some 20 oz tanks with manual valves.

I hate this chase. Someone could win every race but Homestead and not win the championship. What kind of dumb ass thought this out? Why is Homestead so important?

Liberty Ale

Pale ales don't really need carapils. Something about the higher hop level makes for good head retention. I'll use it in some lower hopped beers.

I prefer batch sparging. http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

Do you even have a MLT? Here is a walk through my process: First thing I need to figure is the amount of strike water. I use 14 qt (half the boil volume) plus grain absorption and dead space (my MLT/mash tun has no dead space.) This comes out to around 2qt/lb for normal gravity beers...

It's really easy. All you really need is a 60 minute rest at 150-155f. I batch sparge. I heat the stike and crush the grains in less than a half hour, an hour saccharification rest, drain the first runnings maybe 15 minutes and another 15 to drain the second runnings. Couple of hours is all...

Two vials into a good size starter will work well. It could be ready to lager in less than two weeks. And yes it will probably need six weeks at fridge temps before it's ready.

I just brew a lower gravity batch and repitch half the cake for bock strength lagers.