That's beautiful! Nice work! So, have you successfully tried a pressure transfer yet? If so, how did it work?So I added a gas post to the lid to be able to purge the fermenter with CO2 whenever I open it or do a pressure transfer. Used a gas post on a 1/4 inch bulkhead. Drilled a 1/2 inch hole and threaded in perfect!
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So I added a gas post to the lid to be able to purge the fermenter with CO2 whenever I open it or do a pressure transfer. Used a gas post on a 1/4 inch bulkhead. Drilled a 1/2 inch hole and threaded in perfect!
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Can I get your BOM and source for this mod? I have been looking for a similar solution.
Yeah, that's my thoughts on this. Nobody is going to intentionally rack trub into a keg or bottling bucket, so I see this as probable wort yield. ~95% primary wort. It's 1 quart loss out of 20.So about the volume marks...maybe I figured wrong, but it seems the marks are off by a quart? The 5 gallon mark would be 5 1/4 gallons, the tick below it, the actuall 5 gallons, for example. My "into the fermenter" measurement seemed to confirm this as well.
How deep were the scratches? Are you sure they aren't buffing marks?I hate to be that new guy whose first post is a rant, but this thread always pops up at the top of searches about Anvil fermenters.
I just received mine, and straight from the factory there is a 1 inch wide band of really rough machining marks in the inside wall running along above the bottom rim. When I stuck my head in as best I could to get a closer look, I found pitting everywhere in the scratches, and dark discoloration inside the pits that cannot be seen from the top looking in. The "QC Pass" sticker on the bottom is clearly there for looks (or a cruel joke). I wish I could get a picture good enough to show, but I already packed it back up for a refund.
The whole point buying stainless steel is to avoid scratches where spoilage organisms can grow and have something that will last for years. I am completely turned off by the Anvil brand now. How can you put out a product with such an obvious defect?
How deep were the scratches? Are you sure they aren't buffing marks?
After seeing your post here and seeing the photos, rejecting them was the right thing to do.I'm positive they are not your typical buffing marks. I can get my fingernails stuck in them. Regardless, there is pitting everywhere in the marks, which is probably what they were trying to get rid of (or cover up?)
After seeing your post here and seeing the photos, rejecting them was the right thing to do.
They should have cut that out of the sheet before blanking out the round to do the deep draw punch.
No problem.Thank you Schlenkerla.
I love my 7.5gal fermenter. I really feel it has helped me brew better hoppy beers, especially NEIPAs, by being able to close transfer to a keg with no oxygen pickup.
Below is a pic of how I avoid oxygen pickup through my airlock when transferring to my keg. The output hose on my C02 tank fits perfectly into the top of my airlock so I set my regulator as low as it will go and let it run for the entire transfer. The c02 isn't pushing the beer to the keg (it is gravity fed) it is just getting sucked in by the displaced beer. Works like a charm!View attachment 570013
Is the keg flushed and pressurized with CO2 during transfer? Do you have to vent the keg periodically to keep it flowing?
I fill the keg with starsan and push it all out through a picnic tap to completely flush out all the oxygen. Then I connect the fermenter spigot to the outpost on the keg and fill it from the bottom up. I leave the pressure relief valve turned to vent during the transfer.
It has made a huge improvement to my hoppy beers.
I love my 7.5gal fermenter. I really feel it has helped me brew better hoppy beers, especially NEIPAs, by being able to close transfer to a keg with no oxygen pickup.
Below is a pic of how I avoid oxygen pickup through my airlock when transferring to my keg. The output hose on my C02 tank fits perfectly into the top of my airlock so I set my regulator as low as it will go and let it run for the entire transfer. The c02 isn't pushing the beer to the keg (it is gravity fed) it is just getting sucked in by the displaced beer. Works like a charm!View attachment 570013
I love my 7.5gal fermenter. I really feel it has helped me brew better hoppy beers, especially NEIPAs, by being able to close transfer to a keg with no oxygen pickup.
Below is a pic of how I avoid oxygen pickup through my airlock when transferring to my keg. The output hose on my C02 tank fits perfectly into the top of my airlock so I set my regulator as low as it will go and let it run for the entire transfer. The c02 isn't pushing the beer to the keg (it is gravity fed) it is just getting sucked in by the displaced beer. Works like a charm!View attachment 570013
Try connecting the airlock to the gas post on the keg. Assuming you've purged that keg, it'll do the same thing but save you some co2 and the hassle of dealing with the co2 tank and regulator. Shouldn't have to open the vent to keep it going, either.
Solid! definitely going to rip you off here.
This seems like a good idea too but let me make sure I'm following. Instead of pushing gas through the fermenter, you put an airlock with sanitizer/vodka in it into the gas post so as the beer fills the keg, the airlock works as an outlet vent but does not let oxygen back into the keg?
Edit: afterthought, the airlock in gas post setup would still allow oxygen to contact the beer as it displaces the space in the fermenter. the co2 cushion provided in the original setup would prevent that I guess.
No, the gas post is connected to a tube that is connected to the airlock attached to the fermenter. I actually don't use an airlock but instead a carbcap that's jammed into a stopper, but its all the same.
If you're transferring from a fermenter with a spigot, you can attach a hose from the spigot to the liquid out post. That presents two problems. First, assuming you've purged the serving keg with co2, you've got positive pressure in there and the beer won't flow. Second, as the beer leaves the fermenter, air fills the headspace, potentially oxidizing the beer. If you look at Kingmatt's picture, he solves #1 by venting the keg, and #2 by sending CO2 from the tank into the fermenter headspace.
What I propose is that you take Kingmatt's setup, but remove the CO2 tank and instead connect that gas line to the gas post on the keg. Now when you open the valve on the fermenter, the beer will flow into the keg via gravity, and the gas in the keg will flow into the fermenter headspace.
The benefits I've found are that I (1) save some co2; (2) don't have to monitor the pressure in the fermenter that's not rated for pressure; (3) simplicity--one less piece to deal with (the co2 tank).
I just received mine, and straight from the factory there is a 1 inch wide band of really rough machining marks in the inside wall running along above the bottom rim. When I stuck my head in as best I could to get a closer look, I found pitting everywhere in the scratches, and dark discoloration inside the pits that cannot be seen from the top looking in. The "QC Pass" sticker on the bottom is clearly there for looks (or a cruel joke). I wish I could get a picture good enough to show, but I already packed it back up for a refund.
I had problems and they fixed it immediately, less than 24 hours I hand a new ball valve.A follow-up on this:
I never got an acceptable resolution from either the merchant I bought it from or from Anvil (i.e., Blichmann).
The customer service of the merchant is not the subject of this thread (and I won't elaborate further), but I believe the complete lack of response from Anvil/Blichmann is relevant to the experience of using this product if someone encounters a problem.
I had to file a chargeback. I hope others' experiences are much better than mine in the future. I really wanted to use the heck out of this thing.
Just finished my first batch with my Anvil Fermentor. Like anything else, I learned a few lessons:
Side note: I've heard hop sludge can turn blackish on stainless steel. I was introduced to that on my first batch. Gave me a quick scare until I remembered that's probably normal.
- THE BARB NEEDS A HOSE CLAMP! I've been using 1/2" silicone for years now and didn't have any clear 1/2" hose. I was forced to use silicone so I couldn't really keep an eye on the clarity of the liquid I was transferring. Also... I guess I needed a hose barb? I was not prepared for that. I started my transfer by cracking my ball valve 1/2 way. Anything more than that would suck in air since I didn't have a clamp on the hose/barb.
- Use a hop bag when dry hopping. I always just dumped my dry hops into my carboys and used a nylon bag over my siphon. I took a chance and clocked my dip tube at the 3 oclock position before filling my fermentor (to avoid hops collecting in the tube), tossed in my dry hops when the time was right. Cold crashed for 48 hours. When I was transferring to my keg, the flow stopped about 2/3 through. I can't tell if it clogged or what, because when I was cleaning with PBW and hot water, it seemed to flow fine even though it refused to flow earlier. *shrug*
- CIP time. I had dry hop scum all the way up the side of fermentor wall and the lid. I'm so used to my automatic carboy washer doing all of the hard work that I forgot what it was like to actually have to scrub that stuff. I have a spare pump and CIP ball. I'm absolutely rigging that up next time to recirculate some cleaner and spare me some scrubbing.
- Should I be taking the whole ball valve and dip tube off to clean every time? I can't decide.... I cycled cleaner through it, but...what's your take?
All in all, I like the product. I have some adjustments I need to make, but it shows promise.
Would love to see pics of your CIP setup when you have it up and working. However I found it much easier to clean than my old carboys.
I do take off the ball valve/dip tube. My thought is that's where a lot of trub/yeast/hop material sits, so I'd rather give that a good clean.
Question about this method:No, the gas post is connected to a tube that is connected to the airlock attached to the fermenter. I actually don't use an airlock but instead a carbcap that's jammed into a stopper, but its all the same.
If you're transferring from a fermenter with a spigot, you can attach a hose from the spigot to the liquid out post. That presents two problems. First, assuming you've purged the serving keg with co2, you've got positive pressure in there and the beer won't flow. Second, as the beer leaves the fermenter, air fills the headspace, potentially oxidizing the beer. If you look at Kingmatt's picture, he solves #1 by venting the keg, and #2 by sending CO2 from the tank into the fermenter headspace.
What I propose is that you take Kingmatt's setup, but remove the CO2 tank and instead connect that gas line to the gas post on the keg. Now when you open the valve on the fermenter, the beer will flow into the keg via gravity, and the gas in the keg will flow into the fermenter headspace.
The benefits I've found are that I (1) save some co2; (2) don't have to monitor the pressure in the fermenter that's not rated for pressure; (3) simplicity--one less piece to deal with (the co2 tank).
Question about this method:
In order to do this, you would need to make sure the positive pressure in the keg isn't much more than 1-2 psi, otherwise you could push more pressure to the fermentor than it can handle, right?
I really like this idea though.
Yep. So you're saying hook up the keg gas post to the fermenter gas post to let the co2 pressure in the keg equalize with the fermenter headspace. Then crack the spigot and let it flow...I don't think so. If you hook the fermenter spigot up first, any positive pressure may cause co2 to leave the keg through the QD and go into the fermenter via the spigot, but that would just bubble up into the airspace and maybe out the airlock.
Yep. Don't even need a gas post on the fermenter. Just a bung to stick the tube through, or attach it to an airlock. I had a carb cap so I use that jammed in a bung.Yep. So you're saying hook up the keg gas post to the fermenter gas post to let the co2 pressure in the keg equalize with the fermenter headspace. Then crack the spigot and let it flow...
Awesome reply !!!!This is a great solution to a non-problem. It looks like a great way to separate the brewers from their money with little improvement but plenty of "shiny". Plastic buckets work just fine, cost way less, and can be replaced regularly without costing as much as one of these. If you have the money to waste on "shiny" go right ahead. I prefer to spend money on what is important in brewing, the ingredients. My 10 year old bucket still makes great beer.
Not really. I mean, sure, they're not essential, but that doesn't mean they're a waste of money. There are plenty of functional reasons to prefer this over a bucket. To come on a thread and just say everyone is wasting their money doesn't add much to the discussion, IMO. :Cheers:Awesome reply !!!!
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