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iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer

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I was checking out the updated version history and I don't understand this line:



  • Default configurable minimum cooling/heating time & back-up sensor. (That is, Glycol supported.)



I've currently got the previous v24_ispindel version running with my glycol system (compiled with the glycol and throrrak mods enabled). Will I need to set anything up differently with this new version?



Thanks.



No. Only the HTML/JS files are different. You can just update the index.htm if you know how to.
 
Pulling some wort to measure gravity in 3rd day.
The initial reading surprised me, so I spin the hydrometer to check again. 5 points less after removing the bubbles attached on the hydrometer by spinning!!!
That should be a good reason why the reading of iSpindel bumps up and down.

It also reminds me this hack of iSpindel, which uses a motor to vibrate iSpindel.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=As063Fy1lSQ[/ame]

Anybody here did that hack?
 
Pulling some wort to measure gravity in 3rd day.
The initial reading surprised me, so I spin the hydrometer to check again. 5 points less after removing the bubbles attached on the hydrometer by spinning!!!
That should be a good reason why the reading of iSpindel bumps up and down.

It also reminds me this hack of iSpindel, which uses a motor to vibrate iSpindel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=As063Fy1lSQ

Anybody here did that hack?

Did you calibrate you ispindel in a fermenting solution or just in various sugar solutions?

I think I read on the iSpindel github that calibrating it in a "live" fermentation allows the model to take into account the bubbles occuring during the fermentation.

Not sure how much more accurate that is in the short term, but my iSpindel has always been pretty close to the actual gravity.
 
Did you calibrate you ispindel in a fermenting solution or just in various sugar solutions?

I think I read on the iSpindel github that calibrating it in a "live" fermentation allows the model to take into account the bubbles occuring during the fermentation.

Not sure how much more accurate that is in the short term, but my iSpindel has always been pretty close to the actual gravity.

I used to use sugar water to calibrate. It was very accurate with error within 1.5 points. Now I am using "Brew and Calibrate", which enables calibrating and using it at the same time. It's surprisingly accurate as pre-calibrated one. I don't have any issue about accuracy.

I am talking about the phenomenon, which the readings bump up or down occasionally. About 1 point in this case.
attachment.php


It's nothing about calibration. The really TILT values changed acutely.

My theory:
The co2 bubbles might attach on iSpindel slowly. Sometimes, a group of bubbles might detach at the same time because of too many of them. The attachment and detachment of bubbles affect the TILT values.
 
New to this convo, apologies if i’ve missed the answer to this buried in the thread somewhere. I am confused as to how to implement temperature correction to determine the SG of my fermenting wort when using the ispindel. The last comment of universam1 on github seems to indicate that a variable has been made available to help implement this correction. (See attached) Has anyone had any success in getting a corrected SG number that is corrected automatically as the wort temperature goes up and down in the fermenter?
 

Attachments

  • F843178D-D491-4BD4-B325-3AE2D806BE97.jpeg
    F843178D-D491-4BD4-B325-3AE2D806BE97.jpeg
    477.2 KB
I am not 100% sure but it says that measurements are 150x50 mm so I think it should fit.

Will see next weekend and let you know.
 
Hello guys!

I have been using some time to order parts needed, and the remaining is the tube and sled. I have asked several people about 3D printers, and finally, tomorrow a friend can get it done for us.

Since I haven't ordered the tube yet, I want to make sure I get the correct part printed. Looking at the GitHub, there are several models, for what I assume to be slightly different PETling tubes. I've decided to order the one linked to from the GitHub. Can anyone confirm which model is the correct one?

It is the one here: http://cachers-world.de/de/Petling-XL

And there are several models here:
https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/tree/master/drawer

Also, what about this model:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225597


I know this is probably answered somewhere, but I can't find a definite answer. Hoping someone can help me make sure I am sending the correct model for print tomorrow.

After building a brewpi, I got hooked on learning more about electronics, and I love this community.
 
Hello guys!

I have been using some time to order parts needed, and the remaining is the tube and sled. I have asked several people about 3D printers, and finally, tomorrow a friend can get it done for us.

Since I haven't ordered the tube yet, I want to make sure I get the correct part printed. Looking at the GitHub, there are several models, for what I assume to be slightly different PETling tubes. I've decided to order the one linked to from the GitHub. Can anyone confirm which model is the correct one?

It is the one here: http://cachers-world.de/de/Petling-XL

And there are several models here:
https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/tree/master/drawer

Also, what about this model:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225597


I know this is probably answered somewhere, but I can't find a definite answer. Hoping someone can help me make sure I am sending the correct model for print tomorrow.

After building a brewpi, I got hooked on learning more about electronics, and I love this community.

I used the file from Thingiverse and can confirm that it fits the sled I ordered perfectly. But, I ordered the XXL PETling from ebay.
 
Thank you very much. Unfortunately this seller is in the us, so shipping will be expensive. If nobody else has any input, I might go for the same.
 
Guys I am struggling here... I’ve soldered up a couple of these and for the life of my I cannot flash them. Granted my soldering skills are pretty poor, but I’ve used a magnifying glass, and am fairly confident, at least for the last one that I have soldered, that it’s pretty solid.

I’ve used multiple different usb cables, and for some, windows will detect the usb device, but immediately lose the serial port.

I’ve got the charging usb plugged in at the same time as the flashing usb, is this correct? There’s lights on the charger, either red or green depending on the switch. Also, I’m powering it from a battery pack, I find that seems to work better than plugging it into a usb charger. I’ve tried flashing both usb 2 and usb 3 ports, same result.

Any ideas?
 
Guys I am struggling here...

What are you using to flash the Wemos? Have you installed the ch341 driver for Windows?

Did you remember to remove the appropriate diode on the Wemos? If you forgot, it will recognize the Wemos for a few seconds before it self destructs. (guess how I know)

Edit: Also, you should have the battery fully charged and the power on when flashing. Because when the diode is removed it is no longer powered by the USB connector.

You can see my struggles here.
 
Last edited:
You need to supply power if the diode is removed.
You might try pressing reset/flash button in D1 just after starting flash.
 
Does anyone know if it's possible to direct the logging of data to Google Sheets or another cloud-based site (like Ubidots) but that is free to use? I know that some people log data from their Tilt device to the Google cloud.

gromitdj, Thank you for the offer, but I have a local source for 3D printing.
 
Does anyone know if it's possible to direct the logging of data to Google Sheets or another cloud-based site (like Ubidots) but that is free to use? I know that some people log data from their Tilt device to the Google cloud.

gromitdj, Thank you for the offer, but I have a local source for 3D printing.
Hi

I have done a example where you store the data in a mysql database at you own server / machine. The code could be changed to add the data to a google sheet.

The code could be found:
https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/issues/80

/Jesper
 
@Mikmonken, I was wondering if you would consider a V2.1 of your spindle board for a specific reason: I've have never had success in my first attempt while soldering the temperature sensor, since the holes are so close to each other.

Did someone else face something like this?
 
@Mikmonken, I was wondering if you would consider a V2.1 of your spindle board for a specific reason: I've have never had success in my first attempt while soldering the temperature sensor, since the holes are so close to each other.

Did someone else face something like this?

Is it just a case that the solder is spreading too far over the pads, if so you may be able to heat the solder up again and then suck off the wet solder, which will likely leave enough in the holes to keep the probe in place but prevent the short?

I've not had an issue myself, and don't have the parts to build and retest another board (or the time to do it quickly, but might be worth trying the above first?
 
@Mikmonken, I was wondering if you would consider a V2.1 of your spindle board for a specific reason: I've have never had success in my first attempt while soldering the temperature sensor, since the holes are so close to each other.

Did someone else face something like this?

I've updated and uploaded the board per your request. You can order version 2.1 of the board @ PCBs.IO.

iSpindel V2.1
 
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