Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion

wow. just read through this entire thread today. I'm halfway through my conversion and have a couple of questions:

1) Is the fan recommended? I did use copper tubing, but wondered if I should force some air up there as well.

2) Is there a way to power the fan from the fridge itself, without having to have another plug routed to an outlet?

3) With or without fan, do all of the towers sweat a lot? What are you guys seeing?

4) Why is everyone doing "aftermarket" temperature controls? What's the benefit?

NO fan, just tubing and it seems to work fine. My tower is packed with Styrofoam peanuts for extra insulation

My fridge ran constantly without an aftermarket temp control

mfive said:

wow. just read through this entire thread today. I'm halfway through my conversion and have a couple of questions:

1) Is the fan recommended? I did use copper tubing, but wondered if I should force some air up there as well.

2) Is there a way to power the fan from the fridge itself, without having to have another plug routed to an outlet?

3) With or without fan, do all of the towers sweat a lot? What are you guys seeing?

4) Why is everyone doing "aftermarket" temperature controls? What's the benefit?

Click to expand...

geepmaley said:

My fridge ran constantly without an aftermarket temp control

Click to expand...

That's crazy. I had mine turned down to #1 and I still can't keep it above zero. It thinks it's a giant freezer now. I had to get a ranco controller just to keep it warmer.

Since I moved the temp sensor back and put the second keg in I'm getting a ton of condensation. The fridge will run for a while and all the water on the top will freeze, then it'll melt shortly thereafter and this cycle continues. I did read condensation is a big problem with this fridge, but has anyone found a solution? I even have some damp rid in there but it really isn't helping.

If you dig back through the thread many people have had luck with battery powered dehumidifiers that they sell at hardware stores. I've got mine built, but I haven't fired it up with kegs in it yet. (In the process of moving and haven't had time to brew ) I'll post back with more info when I do.

mfive said:

wow. just read through this entire thread today. I'm halfway through my conversion and have a couple of questions:

1) Is the fan recommended? I did use copper tubing, but wondered if I should force some air up there as well.

2) Is there a way to power the fan from the fridge itself, without having to have another plug routed to an outlet?

3) With or without fan, do all of the towers sweat a lot? What are you guys seeing?

4) Why is everyone doing "aftermarket" temperature controls? What's the benefit?

Click to expand...

I did install a fan and I could not be happier. I ran a small wall-wart sized cable thru the drain in the hump of the fridge for the fan, which is on all the time. I feel that keeping it on all the time cools and circulates the ENTIRE fridge, not just the tower so I believe keeping it on all the time is better than switching it with the compressor... when I turn it off for any kind of repair or cleaning, the tower goes to room temp IMMEDIATELY, so I keep it on.

And yes, in the summer when it is warm (kegerator is in the garage) it sweats A LOT.

Dave

So how did you guys mount your gas valves? Right now my are just laying in the back on the hump, but I'd really like to mount it somewhere.

Thanks for the replies, guys.

I have a distributor/splitter that came with my conversion kit that has two holes (appear to be for mounting). Did anybody mount theirs to the side of the fridge? Do most people just leave them loose? Any pics?

Got mine finished and my keg in it!

I'm having trouble finding a drip tray. What are you guys using? It looks like a 10" drip tray would be perfect for my two-tap tower, but I can't find that size anywhere. The 19" ones are way too big.

Any suggestions?

mfive said:

Got mine finished and my keg in it!

I'm having trouble finding a drip tray. What are you guys using? It looks like a 10" drip tray would be perfect for my two-tap tower, but I can't find that size anywhere. The 19" ones are way too big.

Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Beverage Factory sells a 12" one that is rather nice:
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/driptray/surface/DP-120.shtml

Dave

How do you store the co2 tank outside of the fridge on this model?

Great thread. Has any one tried to do this on a fridge recently, some models change shape and dont want to buy one and it not fit

I did one about 3 months ago.

I did mine this past month. Followed bumbler's method and mounted in front.

No need to take top off or anything. Works great.

I've finally read through the thread, and am halfway through the conversion (just waiting on the tower to be delivered). I was wondering if anyone had put bulkhead connectors through the back for gas, and if they had any issues doing so. Many posts say that there are no coolant lines on the back and sides, but Homewrecker and Kieran indicate otherwise in their posts. Any thoughts?

Well, mine has stopped cooling. Get to about 45-50 and no cooler. Compressor is running, but the back wall of the freezer ices up and it gets no cooler. Any ideas? I have a johnson419 and a computer fan in use.

Does this model self defrost (or more appropriately, should it)?

IF so, maybe the defrost timer or heating coils are gone

Was a second hand acquisition from the guy who built it

If i unscrew thermostat and simply move it back out of the way will the wires be exposed to the moisture?

Is that ok?

zymurph said:

I've finally read through the thread, and am halfway through the conversion (just waiting on the tower to be delivered). I was wondering if anyone had put bulkhead connectors through the back for gas, and if they had any issues doing so. Many posts say that there are no coolant lines on the back and sides, but Homewrecker and Kieran indicate otherwise in their posts. Any thoughts?

Click to expand...

I ran my gas line through where the drain was. Had to pop the drain piece out but it was pretty easy.

jeffsciv, I had considered that, but I have the temp probe for my external thermostat coming in through the drain. I also wanted to put in two bulkhead connectors so I can independently pressurize each keg.

geepmaley said:

Well, mine has stopped cooling. Get to about 45-50 and no cooler. Compressor is running, but the back wall of the freezer ices up and it gets no cooler. Any ideas? I have a johnson419 and a computer fan in use.

Does this model self defrost (or more appropriately, should it)?

IF so, maybe the defrost timer or heating coils are gone

Was a second hand acquisition from the guy who built it

Click to expand...

Anyone else seeing this? Solution?

geepmaley said:

Anyone else seeing this? Solution?

Click to expand...

Mine has started either being too cold or too warm.

Im thinking of buying an external thermostat to fix the issue.

That same thing might help you?

msmith92 said:

Mine has started either being too cold or too warm.

Im thinking of buying an external thermostat to fix the issue.

That same thing might help you?

Click to expand...

I already have an external thermostat as the built-in one made the compressor run constantly. I have the Johnson A419 digital controller

I'm looking for feedback on people who had theirs all of a sudden start not keeping cold only.

geepmaley said:

I already have an external thermostat as the built-in one made the compressor run constantly. I have the Johnson A419 digital controller

I'm looking for feedback on people who had theirs all of a sudden start not keeping cold only.

Click to expand...

What was the step by step process you did to install the external?

Here's a drip tray I added. Hangs off the front but velcro keeps it on perfect.

msmith92 said:

What was the step by step process you did to install the external?

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Since my internal thermostat never shut the fridge off (ran continuously which is why I bought the 419 to begin with), I just set it to 6, then plugged the fridge into the 419 and the 419 into the wall.

Set cutoff on 419 to 38F with a dif of 1 and ASD of 12 min. Had the probe in a glass of water for thermal shock

It worked fine for about a month, getting me down to 36-38, then the temp started creeping up to low 40s then 50s with a fairly good layer of frost on the back wall of the freezer section, so I unplugged everything thinking the evaporator was frozen and needed a defrost. Didn't get much in term of water coming out anywhere.

Plugged back in after letting it sit about 24 hours. Figured the open cup of water might have been contributing moisture so removed it and have the probe hanging over my regulator dangling in air near (but not touching) the freezer wall and after about 30 hours it is reading 47 and constantly running so far. I put a computer fan in to circulate the air and added a canister of damp rid as well try try to mitigate the frost build up. No joy. Still frosting up on the back wall and (so far) only getting to mid 40s

Thanks for the help

What happens if you let the unit work on it's own thermostat? Does it still not cool?

msmith92 said:

What happens if you let the unit work on it's own thermostat? Does it still not cool?

Click to expand...

Running that test now. Will know more later, but I don't expect it to be any different since the compressor was running 100% of the time when the fridge was run through the 419

geepmaley said:

Running that test now. Will know more later, but I don't expect it to be any different since the compressor was running 100% of the time when the fridge was run through the 419

Click to expand...

Yeah I figured you'd be back to the original problem but it'd be nice to know if the cooling goes back too & then troubleshoot from there.

Does this fridge have a defroster built-in at all or is it purely manual defrost?

Manual.

Did it cool down?

msmith92 said:

Manual.

Did it cool down?

Click to expand...

Nope

Looks like I have a lovely fermentation chamber on my hands as my fridge has not gotten past 49F in the past 2 days.

Anyone know if the new version can accept the door of the old version and therefore not need door mods to hold two ball locks?

I have the new model and i can measure it for ya.

msmith92 said:

I have the new model and i can measure it for ya.

Click to expand...

Cool. Hinge placement would also be important. Im thinking of getting the new one and swapping doors since I know the door on mine needs no mods to fit

Thanks

This is my version of the frigidaire kegerator in a built in bar w/ dual tower. I used the copper pipe to cool the tower and can fit two ball lock kegs without modding the door. Thermostat is at the warmest setting "1" to prevent the lines from freezing.

Thanks for all the tips on this thread.

This is my version of the frigidaire kegerator in a built in bar w/ dual tower. I used the copper pipe to cool the tower and can fit two ball lock kegs without modding the door. Thermostat is at the warmest setting "1" to prevent the lines from freezing.

Thanks for all the tips on this thread.

Click to expand...

Looks great. How do you cool the cabinet with it built in? Those types of refrigerators are not designed as built ins

geepmaley said:

Looks great. How do you cool the cabinet with it built in? Those types of refrigerators are not designed as built ins

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This and other mini fridges are standard under counter height (approx 30" high). Tower is mounted to the counter top and added extra pipe insulation between the fridge and counter and in the tower. The fridge is not actually in a cabinet, but I trimmed out around the fridge for a built in look.

jCOSbrew said:

This and other mini fridges are standard under counter height (approx 30" high). Tower is mounted to the counter top and added extra pipe insulation between the fridge and counter and in the tower. The fridge is not actually in a cabinet, but I trimmed out around the fridge for a built in look.

Click to expand...

So you have a few inches clearance in the sides and the back and just put trim pieces around the front to make it look built in? What about ventilation to let the built up heat escape?

I'm curious because we have a couple wine fridges we are looking to "build-in" but they also require 4" of clearance on back and sides since they are not undercounter models either.

I don't think this setup is any different than a standard kitchen fridge with cabinets on both sides and above. This mini fridge is insulated pretty well and has a larger thermal mass (2 kegs) and is rarely opened so the compressor cycle time is pretty short. If you are worried about about heat from the 2 under-counter wine fridges you could add a small computer case fan to push hot air out from the back of the cabinets towards the front.

I'm still in the middle of my build, but the new version of this fridge fits a 5 gallon keg, 2 three gallon kegs and a 5 lb CO2 tank without major modification aside from removing the molded plastic from the door. I was able to leave the thermostat and light assembly in place with plenty of room to spare.