Corny Keg Leaks - Likely Trashed

So the leak is at the base of a post, below the connections. I brought it to the LBHS, and they said it's junk.

What the heck can I do with this thing? They said the rubber makes it unwanted by the scrap-yard. It leaks when pressurized.

Maybe there's a way to seal it for low-pressure use?

GnomeEnthusiast said:

So the leak is at the base of a post, below the connections. I brought it to the LBHS, and they said it's junk.

What the heck can I do with this thing? They said the rubber makes it unwanted by the scrap-yard. It leaks when pressurized.

Maybe there's a way to seal it for low-pressure use?

Click to expand...

Did you or the LHBS take the post off to see if it just needs a new o-ring or anything like that?

Take a picture and point out the leak area for the others to decide?
If the threads are stripped on the post part, or there's a hole, there's probably a way to turn it into a fermenter, or put something on it and use as a primary fermenter.
I could always take it if you're tossing it

jb weld!

I've seen my share of leaky kegs, but none that I ever considered a total loss. If it's leaking around the threads you probably just have a bad o-ring on the dip-tube. If it leaks out the center hole is a bad poppet seal. If it leaks when you engage a disconnect then it's the external o-ring.

All are cheap, poppets are the most expensive but you can usually recondition them with a good cleaning... no replacement required.

Post pics and we can help.

Thanks for the responses. Here's a pic.

JB weld stick for sure. Easy fix.

Take it to a welder, it's a 2-min weld job. You can probably find someone to weld it for a 6-pack of homebrew.

Can JB weld handle the pressure and not pop there?

I'd go with the wielder route, or use as a fermenter (low pressure use), or maybe do a pressure test with JB. I've used JB on aluminum as an odd adhesive and it's broken on me a few times, not like I have it seated properly though, and I did drop the thing a few times.

I'd say you've got yourself an instant stainless fermenter/bright tank.

Spot weld with a TIG welder or secondary fermentor with JB weld. Still useful!

Your LHBS guy cant be trusted hes gonna make money off u buying a new one. get it welded

GnomeEnthusiast said:

Thanks for the responses. Here's a pic.

Click to expand...

It's too bad you are so far from me. I'd fix the problem in about 20 minutes. Stay Brite 8 Silver solder and a propane torch. Done and never to fail again.

How are you with soldering?
Here is a kit that you can use to fix it: Stay-Brite Kit with Flux It'll cost you all of $8 plus shipping. And you will have a lot left over to fix other stuff.

P-J

Just to give you an idea of what can be done:



Fitting soldered to a SS canister.

Neat and easy to do with the right stuff.

P-J

Weld or solder.. don't toss.

As is said above, solder is cheap and easy.

All the copper pipes in my house are soldered and never had a leak....I'd go with the solder.

Solder is good for joining metals that are in contact with each other, not so good for filling in holes. Better to get it welded. Anyone with a TIG can do it quickly.

If I were to solder it mysef, how do I get rid of the rubber?

I would remove the ball lock post, O-Rings and dip tube. Next I'd use an X-Acto knife and cut the rubber skin away from the post and its base at the top of the keg. This will expose the area where it is leaking. When you go to solder it, use gentle heat using a propane torch directed at the post. Try not to over heat it. Once it is warmed up, apply the liquid flux and then keep testing the joint with the tip of the solder. As soon as it is up to temperature, the solder will flow.

You can also get a solder kit here at towerhobbies.com.

Hope this helps.