BIAB with HERMS via Outboard RIMS-Tube Build

Brew In A Bag: BIAB with HERMS via Outboard RIMS-Tube

Pictured is an alternative mash recirculation system for Brew In A Bag. Temperature control of the mash employs a modified HERMS approach comprised of an outboard RIMS-tube heater that maintains the temperature of the mash recirculation via a Convoluted Counterflow Coil Heat Exchanger. A feature of this system is that the RIMS-tube heater-element is not incorporated into the flow of the wort.

The brew stand has a 72,000BTU output burner that quickly heats the water to temperature for strike and boil. However, the same high-energy output makes it a bit difficult to subsequently precisely control the mash temperature on intermittent low heat, and also requires “minding the pot”. An alternative commercially available temperature controller, with automatic intermittent propane ignition, seems not the optimal tool to be left unattended.

Thus, this modified application of HERMS for mash temperature control was undertaken to avoid the potential disadvantages of the RIMS-tube heating element directly contacting the wort. This implementation has the similar advantages of indirect heat of that of a double or jacketed boiler. Other disadvantages of an in-line RIMS-tube is that it adds extra equipment in the wort circulation and requires cleaning: not in best keeping with BIAB “simple” philosophy. Whereas this implementation adds no additional equipment in the wort path, and does not add to cleaning.

Other design criteria included that the home brewery location in a temperate climate allows for brewing in the glorious outdoors, so this rig uses 120V for (USA mains) “plug and play” readiness. (Although this system can operate at 240V/30Amp, that would require being tethered to an installed dedicated circuit in the brewery). As implemented: the 4500 Watt 240 Volt heating element run at 120 Volts produces 1125 Watts, sufficient to maintain mash temperature, and draws 9.3 Amps. Thus the 120V RIMS tube circuit, together with the pumps and electronic controllers (PID), runs on a single 120V 15 Amp mains circuit.

The ability to quickly heat water to strike temperature or boil, subsequently automatically maintain precision temperatures during the mash, no stirring, and only one kettle to clean; this makes for a expeditious and enjoyable brew day with consistent results.

More pictures are here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/115125929@N08/sets/72157640487505774/

And a video tour here:
[ame]http://youtu.be/KrCy3reG82o[/ame]

or here:
www.youtube.com/channel/UCeUfIH0seYepqQ6Hgvp1qrg/videos

This forum and others are very helpful in providing needed information on re-entry into home brewing, building the brew stand, and initiating full grain mashes. There are previous descriptions by other brewers where the HLT is directed via a CCF Chiller to maintain mash temperature. These concepts are extended and adapted into this single vessel BIAB design, in which there is no HLT. The earliest reference was possibly by “Baltobrewer” in 2004, (and then blogging on papyrus, the first description of moving water through a copper coil was by Archimedes ;-). So some of these concepts have been around for a long time.

Thanks!






TAGS: BIAB HERMS RIMS, Brew In A Bag, Heat Exchange Recirculation Mash System, Recirculation Infusion Mash System, RIMS tube, Convoluted Counterflow Chiller, Wort, Brew Stand, Brew Sculpture, Brew Automation, Mash Temperature Control, PID, Home Brew, Home Brewery Setup, Single Kettle Vessel, Electric Brewery, Propane, Gas Fired, Beer, Largus1776

That's pretty awesome. I'll be honest and say I don't understand the complexity of it vs just mashing in a cooler or something, but I still like it a lot. Not having to worry about scortching or cleaning the RIMS sounds great.

iijakii said:

That's pretty awesome. I'll be honest and say I don't understand the complexity of it vs just mashing in a cooler or something, but I still like it a lot. Not having to worry about scortching or cleaning the RIMS sounds great.

Click to expand...

Thank you for both your enthusiasm and question of “just mashing in a cooler”.

BIAB offers 1) producing beer 2) simply and 3) inexpensively – a winning hat-trick for sure.

As for the case of adding the additional technology of RIMS and HERMS (no longer as simple or inexpensive):





So the advantages of RIMS/HERMS are:

The wort temperature and batch to batch repeatability is generally more consistent with RIMS/HERMS; that said, some fastidious brewers also achieve repeatability without technological assistance, and also indeed many an excellent beer is made by keeping it simple.

Thanks!




A few links:
http://byo.com/english-scottish-strong-ale/item/1325-rims-and-herms-brewing-advanced-homebrewing
http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/08/11/rims-and-herms-recirculating-infusion-mash-systems-for-beer/
http://www.winning-homebrew.com/RIMS-HERMS.html

Devil's advocate. The intentions to keep things simple by not having to clean a traditional RIMS unit are offset by having to run two pumps simultaneously for what should otherwise be a very simple system. It's a little Rube Goldberg in that way.

Bobby_M said:

Devil's advocate. The intentions to keep things simple by not having to clean a traditional RIMS unit are offset by having to run two pumps simultaneously for what should otherwise be a very simple system. It's a little Rube Goldberg in that way.

Click to expand...

Fair question that needs to be asked and answered, and thank you for taking the role of “Devil's advocate”, as I am envious that you get to play with all that equipment at BrewHardware.com.

Indeed there are more serious and compelling reasons for this rig, beyond just playing with equipment.

BIAB offers 1) producing beer 2) simply and 3) inexpensively – a winning hat-trick for sure. Many brewers have good reason to stay with “good enough”.

That said, the previous post above makes the case of adding the additional technology of RIMS and HERMS, that while no longer as simple or inexpensive, allows for tight control of mash temperature and consistent batch to batch repeatability.

BIAB is often promoted as an introduction into full mash, incorrectly setting an expectation that BIAB is only a first step, and that the novice brewer will want to graduate to a 3 vessel rig if they become serious brewers. Rather, the BIAB process is a stand-alone brewing technique, with the ability to upgrade the BIAB with equipment to tightly control mash temperature and obtain consistent batch-to-batch repeatability.

The “building blocks” of this system are already in many home brewers rigs, or the novice brewer may be aspiring to acquire them in the future: RIMS-tube, pump and Chiller. The addition of a second pump allows for the construction of this set up, and brings with it the advantage of “Not having to worry about scorching or cleaning the RIMS”.

Looking after the second pump is easy, neither the pump nor RIMS tube have to ever be cleaned, they are on the other side of the wort, so just drain the water. Simple. Done in 21 seconds:

[ame]http://youtu.be/8ZwFQ6sfsb4[/ame]


or here:
www.youtube.com/channel/UCeUfIH0seYepqQ6Hgvp1qrg/videos

While 3 Vessel equipment, first designed by the Victorians, is in fact the engineering application of form follows function, on first appearance it however may appear more Rube Goldberg in comparison to the limited additional equipment needed in the BIAB outboard RIMS/HERMS rig; as described above the brew stand is simpler, less equipment, less expensive, clean up minimal, and the brew day more enjoyable.

Thanks
L

I've built something similar but a few questions. How do you circulate the wort back into the grains? IS the tube just sitting in the grains or do you have a manifold? Does it matter? I was thinking of using a piece of capped off tubing with holes drilled in it in the middle of the grains.

Interesting setup, but I would argue that you haven't eliminated the 3 vessel system. The bag is indeed a vessel, along with the boil kettle and that black pipe where the recirculating RIMS water get's held, that's your HLT! In fact, it's only part of your HLT with the other parts being your RIMS tube and your counterflow chiller! That's the most complex HLT I've even seen!

SFC Rudy said:

I've built something similar but a few questions. How do you circulate the wort back into the grains? IS the tube just sitting in the grains or do you have a manifold? Does it matter? I was thinking of using a piece of capped off tubing with holes drilled in it in the middle of the grains.

Click to expand...

Unlike a Mash/Lauter Tun where concerns for channeling in the grain bed may require a sparge arm manifold; in BIAB with full volume liquid, the grains are suspended in the wort and simple circulation seems effective or at least “good enough”. Thus, this rig does not use a manifold.

SFC Rudy, if you implement your “tubing with holes drilled in it”, maybe you could share before/after results! It would be interesting to see if it affects efficiency. It might be more important in high OG recipes.


In the recirculating process care should be taken to avoid hot-side aeration (oxygenation), achieved here by keeping the wort return just below the surface. (This rig uses inert and high-temperature-resistant silicone tubing)



So as to sterilize the tubing and chiller, the hot wort can be circulated for the last 10 minutes of the boil; taking care that the return wort exits below the surface thus avoiding hot-side aeration.





In addition, here the local municipal water supply is a blend of deep well water and surface water via open canals, and as such seemingly has high amounts of dissolved oxygen. Thus the brew day starts by bringing the water to a full boil to drive off both the chlorine (but boiling wont work if your city uses chloramine), as well as to drive off the oxygen. Then it is cooled to strike temperature.






A follow on thought, since BIAB does not require sparging, there is no aeration, and thus no opportunity for creation of oxidized fatty acids, maybe the beer really does taste better!

.

There shouldn't be any more aeration with proper sparging.

GeneticBrew said:

Interesting setup, but I would argue that you haven't eliminated the 3 vessel system. The bag is indeed a vessel, along with the boil kettle and that black pipe where the recirculating RIMS water get's held, that's your HLT! In fact, it's only part of your HLT with the other parts being your RIMS tube and your counterflow chiller! That's the most complex HLT I've even seen!

Click to expand...

RE: "you haven't eliminated the 3 vessel system" : GeneticBrew, you are indeed correct! In that a functional diagram would show three vessels worth of function. That said, taking inventory of the actual physical rig, I only count one stainless steel kettle.






While this rig was constructed with equipment in keeping with pride of ownership, there was nonetheless a considerable savings over the purchase of three “real” vessels, and as well as that the brew rig occupies a smaller footprint. Certainly this is an engineering advantage.


It is also a process advantage: As you point out, serving the role of the HLT is the RIMS-Tube Reservoir: an inexpensive length of (black) PVC pipe. The advantages include the insulating nature of thick walled PVC, retaining heat, and that the total volume is small resulting in a small thermomass. Thus easy to drive temperature even with the 120V power supply to the RIMS tube.

The system is constructed from “building blocks” that are already in many home brewers rigs, or the novice brewer may be aspiring to acquire them in the future: RIMS-tube, pump and Chiller.







The system is a reconfiguration of currently deployed products. The novelty of the circuit may seemingly appear complex on first introduction, but actually leads to simplicity of the brewing processes. The brew stand is simpler, less equipment, less expensive, and clean up minimal, making for a expeditious and enjoyable brew day with consistent results.

BIAB is often promoted as an introduction into full mash, incorrectly setting an expectation that BIAB is only a first step, and that the novice brewer will want to graduate to a 3 vessel rig if they become serious brewers. Rather, the BIAB process is a stand-alone brewing technique, with the ability to upgrade the BIAB with equipment to tightly control mash temperature and obtain consistent batch-to-batch repeatability.

Its gratifying that others see this has the full functionality of a three vessel system.

Thank you!

.

One benefit to 3 big stainless kettles is food grade material.

The benefit of stainless steel and silicone is that they are neutral to those of us who are sensitive to the compounds extracted from contact with PVC tubing and pipe. Contact temperature and time as well as the PVC formula can be argued with a toxicologist, however, it is one good reason to build everything from stainless or silicone. Copper may also be included in the mix. Brass should be lead free with a layer of oxide on it. Of course, glass is neutral to most if not all, though it may contain trace amounts of lead.

BIAB bags are mostly nylon (paint strainer bags) or voile polyester fabric, both of which are fairly neutral within a certain temperature range, but certainly not (neutral) for everyone.

The toxicologist interviewed on Basic Brewing podcasts has some good things to say.

Homebrew Toxicology Pt. 1 (November 14, 2013)

Homebrew Toxicology Pt. 2 (December 12, 2013)

Homebrew Toxicology Pt. 3 (February 27, 2014)

Eliminating all PVC plastic (and possibly brass, unless it's lead free) from your system would give incentive for others to attempt to build the same.

GeneticBrew, I agree with you! Thank you for pointing out the importance of using food-grade parts and also providing the toxicology links. I look forward to listening to those pod casts.

Brewers should only use food-grade material and check that those materials are specifically rated for the temperatures encountered. For examples: some plastic tubing is rated food-safe for cold liquid (e.g., beer dispensing), but the same tubing is not necessarily advisable for boiling-hot wort. Generally, many plastics are not food safe. One concern is leaching (plasticizers such as bisphenol A and other endocrine disruptors). Even some “food safe” plastics have been found to leach harmful chemicals. Concern for leaching is also true of metals too, such as brass containing lead that can be leached by the hot and acidic nature of the wort. Surprisingly, garden hoses are not food safe, and leach lead into the water, unless they are specifically labeled for drinking water.

The topic of food safe components is worthy of its own discussion thread.

So rather, keeping the conversation specific to this rig:

All components on the wort side are food safe at boiling temperature (100°C/212°F): Stainless steel kettle, ½ inch ID braded silicone tubing, the pump head is stainless steel, and the Counter Flow Coil (or “chiller&#8221 is convoluted copper pipe. Wort was traditionally boiled in copper kettles, and copper is safe. The garden hose used to fill the kettle is food safe and sold for RV potable water connections. All fittings are stainless or specifically labeled lead-free brass (its now easy to source lead-free fittings in the USA since the 2014 EPA “lead free” mandate under the Reduction of Lead in Drinking Water Act), and brass is much easier to work with than stainless fittings.





(That said John Palmer, brewer and metallurgist, in his book describes how to apply a chemical treatment (vinegar and peroxide) to remove surface lead from older brass fittings).



Indeed it is correct that PVC should NOT be used, especially in transferring hot wort. PVC is not rated for hot water, both because of chemical instability (toxicities) and also mechanical deformation (burst strength).

As for the PVC pipe in the RIMS-Tube Reservoir, this RIMS side is isolated and never in contact with the wort side. Heat, not RIMS water, is exchanged in the Counter Flow Coil. There is no chemical contamination of the wort.




RIMS tube Reservoir:

The original specification (shopping list) for the RIMS-Tube-Reservoir was for CPVC, because of its higher specified working temperature, but that tubing was not easily sourced from the local hardware store. Thus when maintaining a 154°F mash temperature, the PVC is just beyond its stated working temperature of 140°F, but as an open topped reservoir there is no pressure induced burst concerns. That said, the pipe could be upgraded so as to keep this rig’s components within temperature specs, and also 100% food-grade parts, if only for aesthetic purposes: Ideally with a length of 1-1/2 inch diameter stainless steel pipe and fittings as is identically used to build the RIMS tube itself.

RIMS Circuit Tubing:

Currently this rig employs food-grade braded vinyl tubing on the RIMS circuit side. Even still, this vinyl tubing is not generally recommend for hot wort. But importantly, and by design, any leached chemicals are kept out of the wort side in this circuit topology using the Counterflow Coil. Thus the vinyl tubing could be upgraded to silicon tubing (as is already installed on the wort side) so as to improve the component integrity of this rig; but would not actually improve the food safety of the wort.

RIMS pump:

The pump on the RIMS side uses the polysulfone pump-head option which is food-safe, but less expensive than the stainless steel pump head employed on the wort side.

RIMS Tube:

The electric heating element used in RIMS is sold for domestic hot water heaters. As a general statement, hot tap water is not optimal as potable water. Is it safe in home brew applications? A topic for another post. Without answering that question, this rig negates the concern, as the RIMS heater element is isolated by the CCF Coil from the wart.



The importance of using food-grade parts is not generally emphasized enough in home brewing. Thank you for your question, thus allowing me to address this issue as it was applied to the build of this rig.

An advantage of this rig is that this implementation adds no additional equipment in the wort path. The same material contact is as a more simple implementation: the stainless steel kettle and pump head, silicone tubing, copper pipe. All the RIMS equipment, and any potential toxic leached metals or chemicals, is on the other side of the Counter Flow Coil.

.

The bag in BIAB is nylon which does emit a smell that can make folks nauseous, as do a lot of plastics / rubbers.

Voile bags are better than nylon, but still a little "smelly."

Glad to know that your wort is in contact with food-grade materials.

Lovely system. I do something similar. But I use a stainless biab basket (with feet) from Ann Arbor fabricators instead of a bag. And my HERMS utilises a small stainless coil a bit like a mini immersion chiller (http://onlinebrewingsupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=80&products_id=504) thats fits in an simple $10 electric jug which is connected to a PID control. Works a treat!

The system does look nice and is well thought out. Well done.

On "Smelly" bags, I am not sure where this is coming from GeneticBrew? All of us who BIAB use our bags and would drop them in a second if they made our beers taste like plastic. If have been using a Voile bag for many batches and have never noticed a smell in any of the mashes, even when brand new. I have never tasted a plastic taste in my beers either. I also use paint strainer bags for hops in the boil as many brewers, even three vessel brewers, do. again, we would drop them in a heartbeat if it hurt our beers. Just curious where you are getting your info on "smelly" bags?

Just to follow up further the question on bag selection.
For the most fastidious, there are stainless steel mesh baskets for BIAB brewing, such as the basket pictured here from a thread by "Wobdee",
www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/my-one-vessel-ag-system-380656/ :

Then in regards to bag material there is nylon and polyester. These are graded medical grade, (while reassuring as to the stability of the material, it is seemingly equally unavailable to the home brewer), food-safe grade, and commercial. It is not clear to me that all BIAB bags are actually sourced from ISO Cert food-safe grade material. Caveat emptor.



I emailed several sellers of BIAB bags, these were the responses:

MOREBEER BAG:




MIDWEST SUPPLIES BAG:


L.D. CARLSON BAGS:


WILSER BAGS:


MASHMASTER BAGS:

Apparently tea bags are now being made of plastics. This has brought the issues of plastics to a boil!
An article in The Atlantic magazine (Apr 8, 2013) "Are Tea Bags Turning Us Into Plastic?', brings to the discussion of plastic tea bags information that may also be of interest to Brew In A Bag users:

Bottom line: no issues with stainless steel, plastic may be suspect.



http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2013/04/are-tea-bags-turning-us-into-plastic/274482/

"Could plastic tea bags also be bad for our health? They are most commonly made from food grade nylon or polyethylene terephthalate (PET)...

Both have very high melting points, which offer some assurance to consumers, as one would think the melting point of plastic is the temperature at which one would need to worry about accidentally eating it.

[However], there is another temperature point for plastics, though, that we may need to worry about, called the "glass transition" temperature (Tg). ...In the case of PET and food grade nylon (either nylon 6 or nylon 6-6), all have a Tg lower than the temperature of boiling water.

...If the question is, 'As the polymer goes through that transition state, is it easier for something to leach out?', the answer is yes," said Dr. Ray Fernando, professor and director of polymers and coatings at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo. "However, just because it makes it easier for something to leach out, it doesn't mean it will." There seems to be something in the plastic collective consciousness that says there are inherently toxins in all plastics, and when they begin to break down, they will naturally gravitate toward food. "This would only happen if there are potential materials trapped in the substance. What we don't know is what..."​

Glass Transition Temperature for Nylon Mash Bags

The “what” is BPA, phenols, and other chemicals either purposely added to impart certain characteristics (for example flexibility so the plastic bends rather than cracks) or coproduced in the production of the bag material.

Home brewing is an optional exposure. Thus, seemingly requiring a conservative view of unsafe until proven safe. Here the evidence indicates that even “food safe” plastic (either nylon or polyester) mash bags may not be good enough.

Thus, GeneticBrew’s post above is seemingly accurate.

Below are the results of an investigation of the science of plastic, and FDA requirements of food safe plastic:

Nylon bags:

The nylon bag material will apparently begin outgassing on contact with water. The glass transition for nylon (polyamide, nylon-6,x) dry is 47-60C (116-140F). However, for wet nylon the glass transition temperature is a mere 20C (68F) (1). While the FDA has banned Bisphenol-a (BPA) in baby products, nylon products may contain BPA for flexibility even in “food safe” formulations.

Nylon mash bags may add “new car smell” and potentially harmful chemicals to your beer. At a minimum use only certified food grade nylon in hopes there are no other ingredients trapped or added into the plastic.
Depending on the manufacturer of the nylon thread, different bags may produce different responses of chemical contamination. This is consistent with varying reviews by brewers on this website; some with better or worse experience with chemical odors. The diversity of brewers’ experience is likely because of different source manufacturers all using the same label “nylon”.

Bottom line: avoid (most) nylon bags.

Polyester voile:

Polyester would seem a better choice for mash bags than nylon.
Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) glass transition dry is 70C (158F). “The small moisture absorption of polyester fibers is on the surface and the properties are little affected [by water]” (2). While PET also often contains BPA, this would seemingly be more likely to be “locked in” until the glass transition.

However, mash-out raises the temperature of the mash to 170°F, this temperature is above the glass transition for PET; it is possible that more than sugars are being expelled from the polyester voile bag. (As previously mentioned, BPA may be present even in designated “food safe” plastic.) That said, certainly you want to use specifically identified food grade polyester in hopes there are no other ingredients trapped in the plastic.

Bottom line: polyester voile is a marginal material for mashbags.

Choices:

Neither plastic is optimal. The polymer science does not supporting the use of plastic mash bags.

In an interview in 2013 on Basic Brewing Radio™ (link above in a previous post), “Toxicologist Paul” recommended boiling the plastic bag several times prior to the first brew. This will help leach out most of any offending chemicals before using the bag for brewing. Maybe this advice for polyester voile is just good enough.

The polymer science is consistent with a number of posts that mention brewers’ enhanced experience with polyester voile bags instead of certain nylon bags. The science shows that polyester voile is preferable to nylon bags; and food safe nylon is preferable to "paint store strainers"; "paint store strainers" should be avoided.

Safety is further enhanced if the brewer does not mash-out with a polyester voile bag. (Other posts discuss this as unnecessary step in BIAB.)


FDA:

What do the FDA regulations (called the Code of Federal Regulations) tell us about using plastic mash bags?

There is no FDA approval specifically for mash bags. Rather the FDA regulations are more general as to the “Substances for Use as Basic Components of Single and Repeated Use Food Contact Surfaces”. These are arrived at for specific plastics tested only to specific temperatures.

The FDA Code of Federal Regulations (21CFR177.1630 (3)) Indicates that PET is food safe as tested at temperatures and times indicated: “(a ) Distilled water at 49 deg. C (120 deg. F) for 24 hours.”

Note that the test limit is below the glass transition temperature. Home brewing applications with mash temperatures of 146F to 156F exceed the FDA test temperature. Polyester voile has not been mandated by the FDA to be tested for food safety at temperatures used in brewing.

In home brewing applications, both plastics are being used at temperatures above the glass transition. Polyester voile used as a mash bag is operating above the FDA test temperature. There is no FDA approved food safe plastic mash bag.

This rig needs a new bag.


Footnotes

1. Nylon 6 – Influence of Water on Mechanical Properties and Tg. ©2007 PerkinElmer, Inc.
2. Textiles for Protection, edited by R A Scott.
3. 21CFR177.1630 PART 177 -- INDIRECT FOOD ADDITIVES: POLYMERS, Subpart B--Substances for Use as Basic Components of Single and Repeated Use Food Contact Surfaces, Sec. 177.1630 Polyethylene phthalate polymers. ) http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=177.1630

News flash! Alcohol may be bad for your health. Don't brew or drink any alcoholic beverage.

I really question the validity of the above studies when taken in the context of home brewing beer. I think you have many other things to worry about that are more likely to cause you harm. One of them would be driving your car to work. Have you seen the statistics on car crashes?

RM_NM, I agree with you that these risks need to be put into context.

Specific to home brewing there are a number of safety issues. Thus, it is important to have a level of awareness of these issues, and think safety first.

The home brewer should have access to accurate public health safety information so as to make an informed decision about their equipment. The information on plastic mash bags was posted so that brewers can make their own informed decision on risk versus benefit.

More obvious safety risks include open gas flame, Propane, PID auto-ignition without warning, 240 Volts RIMS tubes, pots of boiling water, and then of course drinking while brewing. In addition the home brewery is often designed and built without much consideration of safety.

Benjamin Franklin postulated, “Beer is proof God loves us”. Whereas that there are not more frequent injuries to home brewers is indeed also proof that, in the words attributed to Otto Bismarck, “God watches out for little children, fools, drunks and the United States of America."

Specific to the two comments:

Alcoholic consumption, in appropriate quantity, is in fact positively associated with good health, including specifically increased cardiovascular health.





Whereas plasticizers leached from plastic containers is a recognized health risk.

The following statement from Igloo should be of concern to the home brewer:




The analogy of auto accidents is indeed a most relevant example. It is illustrative of personal risk versus population risk.





In the context of personal risk, most car drivers have never been, nor will be, in an auto accident in which a seat belt is the determining factor in saving their lives. Thus in the 1950s and ‘60s most drivers did not understand nor embrace the need to wear seat-belts. The mindset was that there were “many other things to worry about that are more likely to cause you harm”. In spite of this general attitude, the government focused the auto industry on safety; the result is significantly fewer auto deaths today. In the context of population risk, the overall risk has been reduced.

All the above supports a view towards safety.

I began my reentry into brewing by, in part, reading HomeBrewTalk forums.

Unfortunately there is little scientifically factual information available on safety topics. For example, a search of the forum for “nylon paint strainer” returns 953 topic threads. It’s called Brew in a Bag. However, the evolution of “The Bag”, from the first Aussies using muslin bags to American self-proclaimed “ghetto brewers” proclaiming the applicability of using nylon paint strainers, was a haphazard development and contrary to the public health evidence. Whereas some other plastic mash-bags may indeed be just good enough.

BIAB offers 1) producing beer 2) simply and 3) inexpensively – a winning hat-trick for sure. Likewise following the advise of Einstein’s quote “Everything Should Be Made as Simple as Possible, But Not Simpler”.

Many brewers’ personal efforts reflect a commitment to integrity of the brewing process; that is both safe and produces a beer of purity and tastiness.

Historically, the German purity laws were an early benchmark towards a mindset of making the ingredients safe and a commitment to integrity of process.

The home brewer should have access to appropriate information. With this, the home-brewer can make an informed decision as to the level of safety and integrity of process to incorporate into their own beer.




...

Exploring natural materials for brew bags:

1) “Hemp Bag Home Brew” sources Organic Hemp Bags.

The proprietor, Abigail, says that, "Hemp is a unique fiber in that it gains strength when it is wet. Hemp is naturally resistant to bacteria. The weave of the hemp bags makes them the perfect filter for home brewing."

http://hempbaghomebrew.com

This bag also carried at Seven Bridges Organic Brewing Supply:

http://www.breworganic.com/hemp-homebrew-bags.html

Of note to brewers, on brew-day: the wort flow through the bag was restricted. (This may be in part because of too fine a crush on the grains, now more notable with this bag.) This issue is relevant if you recirculate, not important if you don't. The upside is likely a clearer wort. Hemp Bag Home Brew says that, “The weave of [the] hemp bags makes them the perfect filter for home brewing”.

One downside, not having a pulley, this bag was more unwieldy on mash-out. On removing the bag, the wort was slow to drain.

This led to the additional incorporation of a basket in this rig.

The Large bag is 21" x 23" and just fits a tall 10 Gallon kettle (specifically, a snug fit over a 10 Gal Blichmann Boilermaker (G1)).

Sewing your own bag, will allow for proper fitting to your kettle, and is required if you have a 15 Gallon or larger kettle. (When sizing, remember that natural fibers shrink!)

Alternative sources for natural fibers, if organic is important, include Rawganique. They recommend their linen “LF 18 Ivory” material. A swatch shows that it has a fine open weave. Their "Bruch - 100% Hemp Burlap (Natural)" has a more open weave still, slightly larger than nylon bags.

http://store.rawganique.com/Organic-Linen-Fabric-p/lf18-maple.htm

Traditionally linen has been used in wet applications. Long used in sailing, linen is a very durable, strong fabric, and one of the few that are stronger wet than dry. The fibers do not stretch, and are resistant to damage from abrasion. It has the natural ability to prevent bacterial growth.

Of course one need not use organic textiles. Linen is widely available, but the brewer should avoid dyed textiles. One benefit of organic is the better surety of un-dyed material.

Where did you get your Convoluted Counter Flow Chiller from? Or did you build it?

I really like the idea of an isolated system for a HERMS setup with an "inline element". Currently, I'm evaluating all options for an electric HERMS system.

A video tour of this rig is posted on Youtube, here:


The following question from that source:

Question from Seregator:
Hi! Is the temperatur sensor on the mash or hot water circuit?

Answer:
Its on the mash circuit. The thermocouple temperature sensor for the PID controller of the RIMS tube is located at the exit of the mash transit through the convoluted counterflow heat exchanger. Thus, keeping the mash at temperature.

The hot water circuit runs a little higher in temperature, than the mash circuit. The rig has a analogue thermometer to monitor the hot water circuit temperature.

Of note, this set up could allow the hot water circuit to have a runaway temperature: if for example, the mash flow was interrupted then the thermocouple would detect a low temperature of the absent mash, rather not detecting the raising temperature of the hot water circuit. There is little chance of a build up of steam as the RIMs hot water circuit incorporates an open ended hose refilling the hot water reservoir. Subsequently, not pictured, the hose conducting the hot water "out" of the RIMS tube was redirected downward away from the brewer and also the CCF coil rotated 90 degrees. If the hose connection is blow off, the steam is aimed down and away, -- not directed out at the brewer.

Paul Wicksteed, RIP, built a similar system and posted it on Youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/user/Time4Another1/videos

He called his system HEX. He immersed the coil right into the water vessel with the heating element. Most beautiful RIMS system I have ever seen. Only RIMS/HERMS system I would ever be interested in using. The beauty of it is that there is zero chance of scorching the mash. The only issue I have with it is that the heated water inside the tube isn't moving, so the heat transfer to the copper tube will be less than optimal. Circulating the water like Largus is proposing would eliminate that issue.

<- starts at 5:00


One of his videos covers how he wound the coil that tight.

I have most of the parts to build a RIMS heat exchanger like this. I probably will one day.