Question on illuminated switches and SSR...

I'm wiring a switch in between my pid and my element. I know the ssr could still fail closed, but until I get a relay I'm going to use this setup. I can always unplug the element from the panel.

My question is, how do I wire the switch in this situation? It's a pushbutton LED from automation direct.

I wired the + from the pid to the contact block top. Then I wired the load wire to the + on the SSR and jumped it to the body of the switch.

Next I should wire the neutral to the switch body. but do I wire the (-) wire from the pid to this or the 120v neutral? If it is the 120v neutral, I assume (-) from the pid right to the SSR?

It has to be 120v to switch body and (-) to SSR, right?

Thanks guys.

dgonza9 said:

i'm wiring a switch in between my pid and my element. I know the ssr could still fail closed, but until i get a relay i'm going to use this setup. I can always unplug the element from the panel.

My question is, how do i wire the switch in this situation? It's a pushbutton led from automation direct.

I wired the + from the pid to the contact block top. Then i wired the load wire to the + on the ssr and jumped it to the body of the switch.
Correct, the PID (+) goes to one side of the NO contact block and the other side of the NO contact block goes to the SSR (+) terminal

next i should wire the neutral to the switch body. But do i wire the (-) wire from the pid to this or the 120v neutral? If it is the 120v neutral, i assume (-) from the pid right to the ssr?
The PID (-) goes directly to the SSR (-) terminal, no other place.

it has to be 120v to switch body and (-) to ssr, right?
No

Click to expand...

Based on an other post your LED light is a 120V version.
If you like for the LED light to turn on when the element turns on you
connect the Neutral to one side of the switch body.
The other side of the switch body goes to the SSR out side (switched side) not the supply side of the SSR.
Note: If you use a 220 V element you must change the lamp to a 220 V version or add a resistor,and remove the neutral and connect the other 240 v side wire

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

ClaudiusB said:

Based on an other post your LED light is a 120V version.
If you like for the LED light to turn on when the element turns on you
connect the Neutral to one side of the switch body.
The other side of the switch body goes to the SSR out side (switched side) not the supply side of the SSR.
Note: If you use a 220 V element you must change the lamp to a 220 V version or add a resistor,and remove the neutral and connect the other 240 v side wire

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Click to expand...

Are you saying that since I have a 120v switch I can't jumper the load from the contact block to the body of the switch? Isn't one of the switch body terminals for a "load" wire coming from the contact block? Doesn't the SSR switch the hot wire, not the neutral?

I think it's the SSR output wiring that is really confusing me. Here's how I have it.

The output side of the SSR is wired like a switch, correct? A 120v "line" wire coming in from my power source and a 120v "load" wire coming out. If I was wiring an outlet after the SSR I would send a neutral to the silver terminal on the outlet and the black load wire from the ssr to the brass.

You seem to say that the SSR is switching the neutral wire and not the "line" wire. Or am I misunderstanding you?

Your help is greatly appreciated as I'm still kind of lost and the wiring instructions are not easy to use for a novice like myself.

Is part of the issue here the fact that I am using a 120v switch between the pid and SSR. The pid will not send enough power to power the lamp when switched?

You need to provide a hot & neutral to power a light, just like any light that you have in your house or apartment.

The lamp goes on when the SSR sends the hot load to the switch.

samc said:

You need to provide a hot & neutral to power a light, just like any light that you have in your house or apartment.

The lamp goes on when the SSR sends the hot load to the switch.

Click to expand...

I hear you. My question is really about the switch between the pid and the SSR. If the PID is sending the 120v to the SSR, problem solved. My switch should illuminated. If not, well, not sure. Maybe I need a 24v switch instead or buy a relay so I can put it between the SSR and the element where it belongs.

Question #2 I'm still uncertain about. The SSR simply switches the "line" wire in to the load wire out, correct?

I'm going to wire the switch from PID to SSR and see if it illuminates. My other two switches are working fine.

Thanks guys. Almost there I think.

ClaudiusB said:

Based on an other post your LED light is a 120V version.
If you like for the LED light to turn on when the element turns on you
connect the Neutral to one side of the switch body.
The other side of the switch body goes to the SSR out side (switched side) not the supply side of the SSR.
Note: If you use a 220 V element you must change the lamp to a 220 V version or add a resistor,and remove the neutral and connect the other 240 v side wire

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Click to expand...

I understand what you are saying now. If I jumper the switch to the out side of the SSR it will illuminate when the SSR switches.

But will it give the switch more than 10 amps?

Again, thanks for the help. I have everything working now.

So you just used the control voltage from the PID to power the switch? Genius.....that way you have access to many more styles of switch (way better IMHO) without having to use a power supply!

Dgonza9 said:

I hear you. My question is really about the switch between the pid and the SSR. If the PID is sending the 120v to the SSR, problem solved. My switch should illuminated?.

Only with a PID with a relay output and a SSR with a 120 V control voltage.
Your PID has a SSR DC control output only

Question #2 I'm still uncertain about. The SSR simply switches the "line" wire in to the load wire out, correct?

Yes

Click to expand...

You seem to say that the SSR is switching the neutral wire and not the "line" wire. Or am I misunderstanding you?

The neutral is not switched, its connected to the switch body not the NO contact block, required to light the lamp.
Remember the switch body houses the lamp, no switches.

Click to expand...

I'm still kind of lost and the wiring instructions are not easy to use for a novice like myself.
I understand, I am a novice myself.

Click to expand...

I have everything working now.

Click to expand...

Cheers,
ClaudiusB