Wire Crimpers

[sandyeggoxj]

I have seen a lot of talk about proper crimps. Are these a good set of pliers? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I would prefer to use uninsulated connections and heat shrink them all as opposed to using the insulated connectors with the cheap plastic stuff around the crimp area.

 

[nhamilto40]

The tool you have linked is for insulated connectors only.

I would recommend a HS-10 for closed barrel 16-10 gauge non insulated connectors or a HS-03B for open barrel 20-10 gauge non insulated. These are available from ebay/amazon/etc.

OEM page: http://www.fasen-tools.com.cn/压接工具/9棘轮式压接钳(欧洲型)-HS25R.html

If you want the best protection use adhesive lined heat shrink tube.

 

[trimixdiver1]

Or just lugs and you don't have to worry about a crimper.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1429609712.681012.jpg

 

[acidrain]

I second the adhesive lined connectors... available at marine supply stores for boats. They are ss too. Then use a heat gun to shrink them. You can get a cheap one that works really well from Harbor Freight.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

What is the difference between open barrel and closed barrel? Does a closes barrel prevent the wire from coming out of the crimp area?

 

[swander]

I used the S&G Tool Aid crimper also available on Amazon when building my control panel and was happy with the results using insulated crimps. If you are about to embark on a control panel build, I will offer my recent lessons learned. First, avoid THHN wire if you can as it's not ideal for a control panel. I would go with MTW wire which is more flexible. I ended up using silicon insulated mil-spec wire which was overkill, but I could order what I needed instead of 500' rolls of MTW. I got perfect crimps with the S&G tool. I would also go with smaller wire for things that draw very little current, like LED indicators, PIDs, timers, SSR control side, etc. It's easier to crimp in two 18 awg wires into single connector for things you need to daisy-chain, and wiring is cleaner and more secure when you don't have to stack two connectors on a terminal.

 

[nhamilto40]

A an open barrel crimp terminal starts as a U shaped piece of sheet metal. A closed crimp terminal starts as a preformed tube. Open barrel are crimp terminals are only available in the non-insulated type.

The first pic shown some of the common crimping die types and the corresponding connector (1,2, and 17 are open barrel).

The second pic shows an open barrel crimp that I made for a non brewing project (18 gauge wire, vinyl boot). Note the crimp on the copper conductor and the strain relief crimp on the insulation.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Copy on the MTW wire. Ease of working with the wire is an important component to me.


Is there an advantage to open vs closed? I wanted to build it with non-insulated connectors and finish the connections with shrink wrap because I like the look in the end product. Should I care that much? I will have a lot of connectors to deal with for the eHERMS so if I can save 15 seconds per connector I might consider it. I just don't like the look of insulated connectors. Maybe I should get over that.

 

[nhamilto40]

Open barrel can have some advantages especially in the smaller wire sizes but closed barrel is more common in the larger gauges. Pre-insulated connectors vs non-insulated + heat shrink will both work. For the most demanding applications ie. marine bilge pumps, submersible well pumps, etc closed barrel crimp terminals and adhesive lined heat shrink are the standard.

 

[lschiavo]

Only Klein for electrical hand tools IMO. These look to be improved over the pair I have been sporting for many years. How would anyone get by without the screw cutter function alone?

 

[sandyeggoxj]

What is the best way to terminate wire into a terminal block? I am looking at the style terminal blocks that auberins sells where they mount to the din rail. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46&products_id=445

5) Wire ferrules for 10 and 14 AWG wires. Ferrules are only needed when using stranded wires instead of solid wires. DIN Rail devices do not accept commonly used spade or ring type terminals. If stranded wire is installed without any terminal treatment, the apparently well-tightened wire may get loose over time. Crimping a ferrule at the end of the stranded wire can prevent this problem from happening. The ferrule can also reduce the contact resistance and oxidation. Laboratory tests have proven that the use of ferrules can extend contact lifetime by preventing an increase in resistance and temperature, which can lead to short-circuits and/or failures.

 

[trimixdiver1]

Those blocks may not be rated for stranded, but you will need another crimper for the ferrels. More money. Ferrels are nice when jumping between blocks, or use the jumpers or bars that your terminal block uses.

I would look at Automation Direct for a cheap and rated TB.

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...nal_Blocks/DINnector_DIN-Rail_Terminal_Blocks

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Those look good. It looks like they are rated for stranded wire as well.

 

[BigBlock]

If you can swing it the ferrules do help give those terminations some extra insurance (and make your panel look more prof). I got a cheap crimper off of amazon and was pleasantly surprised. Not a pro tool but will get the job done without swearing.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPRYIL8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I got my terminal blocks and ferrules off of ebay(And wireduct). Otherwise, the automation direct stuff is good, just don't get the screwless style. They're junk.

 

[lschiavo]

If the terminal block is not rated for stranded wire, first, I'd look for one that was. If I had to use that stupid block, I'd probably tin the wires. I certainly wouldn't buy ferrules and an extra tool just to use a substandard block

 

[nhamilto40]

Ferrules on stranded wire connections are a US vs. the rest of the world thing. Basically everywhere outside the US requires their use in industrial wiring. Thus if you are using euro/chinese/etc. market DIN rail parts with stranded wire you will need to use ferrules.

 

[lschiavo]

Ferrules on stranded wire connections are a US vs. the rest of the world thing. Basically everywhere outside the US requires their use in industrial wiring. Thus if you are using euro/chinese/etc. market DIN rail parts with stranded wire you will need to use ferrules.

I didn't know that. Seems like a waste of time and resources. I am used to these type of blocks:

Did you know that you can reverse the twist on a stranded wire (CCW) and loop it around a receptacle screw and it holds great?

 

[Facinerous]

Please don't give poor advice lschiavo. Yes you can do the reverse wrap for stranded, but I would never recommend that to another person. You can make your own choices for your projects, but if I caught you doing that as an electrician I would probably run you off the job. Its something you get away with, not something that is legitimate.

 

[lschiavo]

Please don't give poor advice lschiavo. Yes you can do the reverse wrap for stranded, but I would never recommend that to another person. You can make your own choices for your projects, but if I caught you doing that as an electrician I would probably run you off the job. Its something you get away with, not something that is legitimate.

I didn't intend that as advice. Just pointing out a curiosity. I would run you off my job too Thanks for pointing out that it is not a legal termination for those that may not know. I am not here to give bad advice.

 

[nhamilto40]

Ferrules or not are based on the design of the DIN terminal block. This is in turn based on the code requirements of the target market. So DIN parts intended for markets where ferrules are required are designed for that usage and should not be used with bare stranded wire.

Reversing the lay on stranded wire not good practice.

Typical euro type blocks: