CraftBeerPi Wiring and Case Questions

[kdw2pd]

I'm looking to wire a 110V 15a eBIAB CraftBeerPi setup. I've read the GitHub documentation for installing CBP on the Pi, but had a couple of wiring questions:

1.) After reading through the monster CraftBeerPi HBT thread and watching a couple of YouTube videos, a couple folks suggested using a ULN2803A Darlington Array, to ensure that the Pi can trigger the element SSR and is less likely to be fried if something dumb happens. However, I didn't see much in the way of instructions (for the wiring inexperienced) about a permanemt setup using a ULN2803a without a breadboard or a CBP PCB. Would one of these boards work for the pictured wiring diagram? (Amazon.com: Voltage Driver Power Supply Module, 2Pcs ULN2803A Module Darlington Tube High Current Voltage Driver Voltage Protection Electric Component : Electronics). It'd be nice to be able to use Dupont connectors for Pi - ULN2083A, and for the ULN side of the ULN - SSR. I'd just have 2 SSRs, one for the element and one for a Chugger pump, and 1 DS18B20 for the kettle.

2.) For building an enclosure, does anyone have a recommendation for a way to include 2 panel mount power outlets that doesn't involve manually cutting a hole? My thought would be to use round power outlets like these (MEETOOT 2pcs 3Pin Power Outlet Socket Jack Connector Round US Type Industrial Plug Panel Mount Outlet Power Socket 15A 250V Universal Electrical AC Power Socket - - Amazon.com) with a junction box that has pre-punched 3/4 and 1" holes (DJC Supply Co. 12" x 12" x 3" PVC Plastic Junction Conduit Box with Pre Molded 3/4" & 1" Punch in holes - - Amazon.com). Based upon the power outlet dimensions, it looks like it should fit in the 1" holes, and the 3/4" would be nice for PG11 cable gland that fits the 110V power cord.

Wiring diagram taken from this YouTube video by Andrew Lynch:

 

[Camshaft27]

Hi there,

I happened to stumble across your post while contemplating an automated build of my home brewery, and may be able to help you out on the hardware end. A few years ago I began developing a series of hardened IO boards for Raspberry Pis that basically give you industrial PLC style IO that's able to do the heavy lifting at higher voltages and current, while maintaining isolation so you can't accidentally "fry the Pi". They have the same footprint as the Pi and attach directly on top. I also included a 1 wire interface for devices like the DS18B20 temp sensors so you can land sensor wires directly to a proper terminal block without worrying about adding resistors or caps. The IO directly interface with the gpio pins on the Pi for easy control - no messing around with configuration of drivers or any peripheral communication protocols. I used screw type pluggable wire terminals for a robust controls install, and have successfully modified common cases to be DIN rail mountable and fit the Pi and "Tough PiIO" board. One of my earlier revisions has actually been installed and successfully operating in an industrial setting to collect data production data for a couple years now.

I currently have three models of the Tough PiIO fully developed, tested, and ready to go. I ended up running out of time/ambition to market them since I became a dad around the time I finished the development and testing stage. (The project began when I was simply an engineer with too much free time haha) If you're interested I would consider sending you one to try out, if you'd be willing to spread the word. One of the models I have ready would fit your application perfectly.

The first picture is one that's been hanging on a nail in my garage collecting dust for probably a year or so, still has a temp sensor and one of my test bucks plugged into it. The other ones are what I had on my desk - note they don't have headers soldered on yet and some don't have screw terminal plugs pushed in.

Thanks,
Cam

 

[Neilyboy]

Did you ever get anywhere with this? I am looking into doing this myself and looking at your suggestions it seems to be they way to go. I also see that the 'one wire' probs suggested were garbage and had issues with some builds so they suggest using pt100 probes with max31865 boards. I may start digging into this. Does anyone here have any pics or thoughts towards building this out into something simple like a digiboil (220v with two elements).

 

[Camshaft27]

Did you ever get anywhere with this? I am looking into doing this myself and looking at your suggestions it seems to be they way to go. I also see that the 'one wire' probs suggested were garbage and had issues with some builds so they suggest using pt100 probes with max31865 boards. I may start digging into this. Does anyone here have any pics or thoughts towards building this out into something simple like a digiboil (220v with two elements).

Hi Neilyboy,

I have not used one of the boards mentioned above in a brewing application yet, but for other random stuff and some industrial monitoring they have been solid. I am curious what the issues have been with the one wire temp probes, my experience has been great with them so far. I do use them in a three wire configuration though, and have not used them above about 140° F yet.

If you want to try something, I'd be willing to send you a board and a schematic for your system. I'd need to know what you are trying to control and some hardware specs.

Thanks,
Cam

 

[Neilyboy]

Hi Neilyboy,

I have not used one of the boards mentioned above in a brewing application yet, but for other random stuff and some industrial monitoring they have been solid. I am curious what the issues have been with the one wire temp probes, my experience has been great with them so far. I do use them in a three wire configuration though, and have not used them above about 140° F yet.

If you want to try something, I'd be willing to send you a board and a schematic for your system. I'd need to know what you are trying to control and some hardware specs.

Thanks,
Cam

Cam,
Thanks for the reply. The only reference I have stating that the probes have issues came from this build video. should take you right to the spot where he speaks of them (I personally plan on using them as there has to be plenty out there working). I am definitely going to build out a craftbeerpi box. Looking to build it with ability to output to two 240v elements and two 120v plugs (pump, etc). planning on following one of doug293cz's old designs just swapping out the auber dsprxxx with an arduino running craftbeerpi. Still dropping my dc trigger load out to solid state relays that are being driven thru 30amp contactors. I have built an electric rig back in 2018 which has been working perfectly since then. I would just love to have the ability to control this via my phone.

Your board looks awesome and I love 'American Engineering' logo

Neil

 

[Camshaft27]

Cam,
Thanks for the reply. The only reference I have stating that the probes have issues came from this build video. should take you right to the spot where he speaks of them (I personally plan on using them as there has to be plenty out there working). I am definitely going to build out a craftbeerpi box. Looking to build it with ability to output to two 240v elements and two 120v plugs (pump, etc). planning on following one of doug293cz's old designs just swapping out the auber dsprxxx with an arduino running craftbeerpi. Still dropping my dc trigger load out to solid state relays that are being driven thru 30amp contactors. I have built an electric rig back in 2018 which has been working perfectly since then. I would just love to have the ability to control this via my phone.

Your board looks awesome and I love 'American Engineering' logo

Neil

Interesting, sounds like there was some problem with his 1w bus or communication protocol. I've not had problems like that so far.

You are planning on running craftbeerpi on an Arduino? The boards I mentioned above are for the raspberry pi.

Thanks,
Cam

 

[kdw2pd]

I ended up purchasing the case and power plugs that I linked to. It made for a nice, neat installation without requiring any drilling for the plugs. I did have to cut a hole for the external heat sink off the SSR for the heater. You could easily get away with one of the smaller cases from the same listing, but the larger case has the surface area if you want to mount a screen in the future.

I've not had any issues with the DS18B20 temp probes that I've purchased, but that may be just my luck. One nice thing with the case: if you run a couple of temp probes off the Pi, a PG11 cable gland will work for strain relief, and will fit in one of the 3/4" holes in the case.

I ended up adapting a different wiring diagram. I couldn't get the first one I posted to work, but had no issues with this one.