Will this cheap 3500 watt induction burner work?

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brewguyver said:
SOOW wire or standard? From what I saw the 6/4 standard wire was, but not braided. Shoot a link if you have it too - would love to avoid the 4/4 later if i can.
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All I have every seen in 6 gauge is braided wire.... I wasn't aware they sold solid core in that size? Mine is braided and has been inspected and approved for my 60a circuit... I use 10/3 solid core for my 30a brewery setup....
 
I have been researching induction brewing and I am looking into getting the Avantco IC3500 to do full 5 gallon batches. I am currently in an apartment so I don't have the ability to get a higher voltage outlet put in. Does anyone know if a voltage converter like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0CF8W4?psc=1 would work to power the burner in a standard 120v outlet? I appreciate the help!
 
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The IC3500 is 3500W.

Although technically that transformer should work, 110V >> 220V, the problem lies in finding a 110V source you can plug this into that can deliver 35 Amps!

Most domestic 110V circuits are 15A. Some maybe rated at 20A, but I've never seen a higher one.

So basically getting 5000W from 110V is total BS. That would require a 50A circuit @110V.
 
Yep, if you can get 3500 (more accurately 3300 which is what the burner tops out at) watts from a 110 volt outlet in your home, you need to either move immediately or hire an electrician to fix up your breaker box!

If you can isolate two different 110V/15A circuits, it's possible you might be able to figure out some way of powering the unit from both of them simultaneously. But it would be a lot less effort to either (A) add a new double-pole circuit of the proper type, or (B) use gas.
 
JXH said:
I have been researching induction brewing and I am looking into getting the Avantco IC3500 to do full 5 gallon batches. I am currently in an apartment so I don't have the ability to get a higher voltage outlet put in. Does anyone know if a voltage converter like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0CF8W4?psc=1 would work to power the burner in a standard 120v outlet? I appreciate the help!
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chocotaco said:
Yep, if you can get 3500 (more accurately 3300 which is what the burner tops out at) watts from a 110 volt outlet in your home, you need to either move immediately or hire an electrician to fix up your breaker box!

If you can isolate two different 110V/15A circuits, it's possible you might be able to figure out some way of powering the unit from both of them simultaneously. But it would be a lot less effort to either (A) add a new double-pole circuit of the proper type, or (B) use gas.
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Forget that transformer. One of Amazon's reviewer used it at 1800W, about half of what you need. Drawing more than 2200W out of that will be problematic. 110V/20A tops out there.

Since you're in an apartment, also forget adding breakers unless you can convince the landlord (good luck!) or know exactly how to tap into the box, temporarily. If they find out or you cause trouble (e.g., fire) you're liable.

As chocotaco said, what you could do is use two separate 110V connections using two extension cords. Like one in the kitchen, the 2nd from the living room or so. They have to be on two separate circuits and fed from opposite sides in the breaker box. Bring those 2 cords together into a NEMA 6-20 receptacle to plug your IC3500 into. That will give you your needed 220/240V. 15A breakers in each of those circuits is fine. And it's not illegal either.

Do you have a dryer outlet? Or a stove's?
 
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I use the Burton Professional 1800 watt for my 15gal hlt and it brings 7 gal to 190 in 2 hrs(my mash time). I also use it for 5 gal extract batches, it takes a while, but if you insulate the kettle it goes faster.
 
IslandLizard said:
Forget that transformer. One of Amazon's reviewer used it at 1800W, about half of what you need. Drawing more than 2200W out of that will be problematic. 110V/20A tops out there.

Since you're in an apartment, also forget adding breakers unless you can convince the landlord (good luck!) or know exactly how to tap into the box, temporarily. If they find out or you cause trouble (e.g., fire) you're liable.

As chocotaco said, what you could do is use two separate 110V connections using two extension cords. Like one in the kitchen, the 2nd from the living room or so. They have to be on two separate circuits and fed from opposite sides in the breaker box. Bring those 2 cords together into a NEMA 6-20 receptacle to plug your IC3500 into. That will give you your needed 220/240V. 15A breakers in each of those circuits is fine. And it's not illegal either.

Do you have a dryer outlet? Or a stove's?
Click to expand...

Well, the stove is built into the counter, so there is no plug, and the dryer is not accessible from the inside (I would need a really long extension cord to make use of it), so those options are out. It seems like my best bet is to either get the 1800w burner and scale down the batches to 3 gallons or use a propane burner outside.

I appreciate the advice/suggestions, and im glad I didn't try to buy that voltage transformer on Amazon and waste $150 on something that wouldn't have worked!
 
JXH said:
Well, the stove is built into the counter, so there is no plug, and the dryer is not accessible from the inside (I would need a really long extension cord to make use of it), so those options are out. It seems like my best bet is to either get the 1800w burner and scale down the batches to 3 gallons or use a propane burner outside.

I appreciate the advice/suggestions, and im glad I didn't try to buy that voltage transformer on Amazon and waste $150 on something that wouldn't have worked!
Click to expand...

Does your countertop stove boil 4-5 gallons easily? You can split the boil over 2 pots and do all your additions to each of them, then chill and combine in your fermentor.

If the stove doesn't hack it, or can't boil 2 pots, use an 1800W Induction burner, but stay away from anything with "NU" in the name or if it was seen on TV.

All Grain, PM, or Extract?

Only All Grain needs full boils, 7-7.5 gallons for a 5.5 gallon batch. Easily split over 2 kettles/burners. Or brew 2 of them back to back. Only one prep and cleanup.
 
IslandLizard said:
As chocotaco said, what you could do is use two separate 110V connections using two extension cords. Like one in the kitchen, the 2nd from the living room or so. They have to be on two separate circuits and fed from opposite sides in the breaker box. Bring those 2 cords together into a NEMA 6-20 receptacle to plug your IC3500 into. That will give you your needed 220/240V. 15A breakers in each of those circuits is fine. And it's not illegal either.
Click to expand...

Well really, not only would they have to be on separate breakers, but they would also have to be on opposite phases (unless there is some kind of phase inverter you can employ - sounds like something out of Star Trek!)

If they are on the same phase, they are basically a single 110V/30A circuit together.

Edit: oops, it looks like you already mentioned that! Reading comprehension fail.
 
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IslandLizard said:
Does your countertop stove boil 4-5 gallons easily? You can split the boil over 2 pots and do all your additions to each of them, then chill and combine in your fermentor.

If the stove doesn't hack it, or can't boil 2 pots, use an 1800W Induction burner, but stay away from anything with "NU" in the name or if it was seen on TV.

All Grain, PM, or Extract?

Only All Grain needs full boils, 7-7.5 gallons for a 5.5 gallon batch. Easily split over 2 kettles/burners. Or brew 2 of them back to back. Only one prep and cleanup.
Click to expand...

I have been doing extract and some partial mash, so I have only needed to boil 2-2.5 gallons. I recently began to acquire all grain equipment so I have been looking to make the switch to a full boil. I haven't tested out how much water the stove can boil, but I will give that a try. If it cant handle 4-5 gallons on one burner, I should have enough space to split a batch in two pots/burners. Thanks again!
 
IslandLizard said:
If the stove doesn't hack it, or can't boil 2 pots, use an 1800W Induction burner, but stay away from anything with "NU" in the name or if it was seen on TV.
Click to expand...

I found a Nuwave gathering dust in the kitchen. It is now my sparge water heater. It's only 1300W but it takes the weight of 5-6 gallons. IC3500 handles heating mash water and boil duties.
 
I FINALLY got my outlet box wired up - took forever to sit down and do it. The burner seems to be working pretty well at relatively low power. I'm using a bru-gear 10 gallon pro-boiler from their kickstarter.

For those who are thinking about getting one of these - I probably would have had a 20A circuit run if there wasn't a potential move in my future. It's way cheaper (depending on who does the work). I went this way because I wanted something that's portable and would give me a basic intro into ebrew building. The GFCI is there because I'm also going to use that circuit for a pump/RIMS tube, and because it allows me to use PJ's design for an e-stop.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421620370.462619.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421620382.618777.jpg

Here's my build thread so far:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=638040992974298&id=154773984634337
 
brewguyver said:
I FINALLY got my outlet box wired up - took forever to sit down and do it. The burner seems to be working pretty well at relatively low power. I'm using a bru-gear 10 gallon pro-boiler from their kickstarter.

For those who are thinking about getting one of these - I probably would have had a 20A circuit run if there wasn't a potential move in my future. It's way cheaper (depending on who does the work). I went this way because I wanted something that's portable and would give me a basic intro into ebrew building. The GFCI is there because I'm also going to use that circuit for a pump/RIMS tube, and because it allows me to use PJ's design for an e-stop.

View attachment 249729
View attachment 249730

Here's my build thread so far:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=638040992974298&id=154773984634337
Click to expand...

I'm thinking and trying to do the same thing why not just make a outlet to plug them (induction cook tops) into the wall.
 
I've been using 3500W induction heat for my boil with good results. Recently brewed a couple of rye beers and have gotten a ring with a little scorching at the heat source. This has never happened with any other grain bill including wheat. The beer from the rye has not been bad, but it has me worried. My pot is a single layer Bayou 62 quart. No clad bottom. Has anyone use a diffuser plate to help distribute the heat? If so, how'd it work? Did it cut down on the heating capacity?

Sorry for the double post. Though it would have a better chance of getting a reply in this thread.
 
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The triple ply acts as a built-in diffuser plate, and has a decent efficiency.

A single ply bottomed kettle with a separate diffuser plate under it, will turn your Induction plate effectively into a radiant plate, with a kettle on top. I'd say you lose efficiency to heat loss and reduced heat transmission, which will limit how much wort you can boil.

I have a tri-ply and always stir and scrape the bottom of the kettle. At the end I often find a bit of sticky residue in the center, the hottest area. Nothing burnt or scorched, just a bit of gooey film. I had the same when using my glass top stove.
 
brewguyver said:
I FINALLY got my outlet box wired up - took forever to sit down and do it. The burner seems to be working pretty well at relatively low power. I'm using a bru-gear 10 gallon pro-boiler from their kickstarter.

For those who are thinking about getting one of these - I probably would have had a 20A circuit run if there wasn't a potential move in my future. It's way cheaper (depending on who does the work). I went this way because I wanted something that's portable and would give me a basic intro into ebrew building. The GFCI is there because I'm also going to use that circuit for a pump/RIMS tube, and because it allows me to use PJ's design for an e-stop.

Here's my build thread so far:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=638040992974298&id=154773984634337
Click to expand...

Really nice, professional looking build! :ban: :rockin:
Yeah, way more than it really needs, and more expensive than pulling a wire and mounting a NEMA 6-20R. But sometimes we don't have that luxury, and total portability secures your investment.

If we still lived in a rental I would have done something similar.
 
As IslandLizard, I've seen a white-beige gooey ring after the boil.. I would not consider is scorching though.

I have used mine only 3 times, with barley malt only.
 
AnOldUR said:
I've been using 3500W induction heat for my boil with good results. Recently brewed a couple of rye beers and have gotten a ring with a little scorching at the heat source. This has never happened with any other grain bill including wheat. The beer from the rye has not been bad, but it has me worried. My pot is a single layer Bayou 62 quart. No clad bottom. Has anyone use a diffuser plate to help distribute the heat? If so, how'd it work? Did it cut down on the heating capacity?

Sorry for the double post. Though it would have a better chance of getting a reply in this thread.
Click to expand...

Something like this? https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/made-smoked-rye-ipa-morning-509540/

Here's another related thread with possible solutions- https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/does-rye-scorch-easily-510476/
 
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singybrue said:
Something like this?
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Not nearly that bad, but yeah, same burn pattern. The first time it happened, my induction hob timed out and shut off. I thought it scorched because of break proteins and glucans settling to the bottom before I started it back up. This time that didn't happen and I did a beta glucan rest, so I thought I'd be OK. It did help, but didn’t eliminate the problem.

The reviews of the diffuser plate say that they increase heating time. I wonder if that’s only because of having to heat up the plate along with the pot and would be something more noticeable on a smaller scale? With the size and volume of a big boil kettle, I don’t think there’d be any heat loss to change the amount of wort that could be boiled. I was hoping that someone here had tested this theory before I spend money.
 
AfroHopster said:
I'm thinking and trying to do the same thing why not just make a outlet to plug them (induction cook tops) into the wall.
Click to expand...

brewguyver said:
That's definitely an easier option if you don't need the portability.
Click to expand...

With the IC3500 you don't need GFCI, unless you intend to deeply flood the brewing area with water or wort.

So two (2) 240V, 20A circuits with a 6-20R on each end will get you to use both plates in short time.

I ran one of those circuit to my kitchen and had to pull out the dishwasher to feed the cable up through the joist space, and mount a work box to hold the 6-20R. It took me 4-5 hours altogether, not counting calling around and rounding up the 6-20R and white metal face plate from an electrical supply house. HD and Lowes don't have them. Amazon does, but not in white at the time.
 
trussell said:
I have 10 gallon single bottom and triplay Bayou Classic kettles. I use the single bottom one for the MT and have not seen any problems when heating strike water. When the cooker is on you might see a few degrees warmer over the ring area but once I see the water at target temp I give it a swirl with my mash paddle and find the reading is fairly even. Were you touching the side?
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So I brewed yesterday. Still boiling outside on propane, but using the avantco for strike and sparge water. I just wanted to report back from my earlier post and respond to this for others knowledge - I am not thrilled with my single ply bayou classic 1036 as far as heating up strike water as it pertains to temp monitoring. Since I knew i had temp differential I stirred a lot but still saw at times a 10° difference from the center ring to the outer edge. This was with 4 gallons of strike water.


After stirring, I did my best and went with what I thought was 2°higher than my preheat temp, but alas still ended up low., not a huge deal as
I just pulled off a gallon and brought it to a boil and added back. Hit mash temp then.

For sparge water I went back to my old 5.5 gal tramontia (Walmart brand) stainless steel tri bottom and temps were much more accurate. I will be using this pot for heating up in the future. As it seems more reliable for temps, I will use the bayou for boil
 
Just searched through the thread, and couldn't find a conclusive answer on this:

Does the bayou classic 1044 work well with this burner? Want electric brewing options for when it's too cold to brew outside, or it's raining.
 
I started a thread about using a diffuser plate but didn't get any replies, so bought one to try out on my Avantco 3500W induction hob. Ran for about five minutes and then threw out an over heat error and quit.
 
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Just thought I would say hello to you guys again. I have been using these burners for several months now and really like them.

I use 2 side by side to brew 2 things at a time. I also supplement power with a heat stick. I've brewed 5 and 10 gallon batches in them and the heating needs is not much more to maintain a 13.5-14g boil than it is for 6.5g. after the boil gets going, I leave the 2000w heat sticks on and turn the burners to either 500 or 800 for a 13.5g boil or just off if it is only 6.5g boil


Here are some random pictures I found

IMAG1193.jpg


IMAG0989.jpg


IMAG0995.jpg


IMAG0996.jpg


IMAG0997.jpg
 
AnOldUR said:
I started a thread about using a diffuser plate but didn't get any replies, so bought one to try out on my Avantco 3500W induction hob. Ran for about five minutes and then threw out an over heat error and quit.
Click to expand...

I'm not surprised, that is a very hot plate laying on that induction top. I doubt it could transfer the heat fast enough to your kettle above. Those single ply kettle bottoms are not exactly flat, so most heat transmission will be radiant, as I mentioned a couple posts up, with some conduction where it touches.

Maybe when using a thin silicone spacer between the glass plate and the diffuser, the IC3500 may not detect the heat so much. But that diffuser will still get blazing hot, maybe enough to damage the silicone... and other things.

I guess you could crank out crepes at top speed. :D
 
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I have a different wiring question. I have a 30a 110 RV outlet in my garage, is there an easy-ish way to adapt/convert it to work with the Avantco 3500?
 
If the receptacle is 30A, they should have used 10-2 wire. More than enough. If you have room in your panel, replace the 30A 120V breaker with a 20A 240V breaker and change the wall receptacle to a 20A 240V (NEMA 6-20R). Make sure there is nothing else on the circuit!

I don't know if you consider this work to be "easy-ish"? :cross:
 
ercousin said:
Quick Update: Had this burner going since March 2013 and on my 30th batch last night the internal fuse blew. I opened it up and soldered a wire over it temporarily but will have to find another fuse or breaker to replace it.

Cheers,
Eric
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Eric, have you had this problem again? Or anyone else?

Asking because mine blew yesterday and I'm worried that it's an indication that there's something else wrong. Once you replaced the fuse did it continue to work as before?

I also have a question about the fuse. I had a 15 amp fuse at home and just replaced the old one and am doing a test boil. Not up to a boil yet, but it appears to be fine. What I'm worried about is that the fuse on the left is the original and the one on the right is what I used to replace it. They are very different, but I don't know enough about fuses to know what that difference is. Anyone?

AvantcoFuse.jpg
 
AnOldUR said:
Eric, have you had this problem again? Or anyone else?

Asking because mine blew yesterday and I'm worried that it's an indication that there's something else wrong. Once you replaced the fuse did it continue to work as before?

I also have a question about the fuse. I had a 15 amp fuse at home and just replaced the old one and am doing a test boil. Not up to a boil yet, but it appears to be fine. What I'm worried about is that the fuse on the left is the original and the one on the right is what I used to replace it. They are very different, but I don't know enough about fuses to know what that difference is. Anyone?
Click to expand...

The one on the left appears to be a "slo-blo" your replacement appears to be standard. Should be no safety issues, as long as the replacement has the same current/voltage rating. However, your replacement may blow a little easier during normal use...
 
AnOldUR said:
Eric, have you had this problem again? Or anyone else?

Asking because mine blew yesterday and I'm worried that it's an indication that there's something else wrong. Once you replaced the fuse did it continue to work as before?

I also have a question about the fuse. I had a 15 amp fuse at home and just replaced the old one and am doing a test boil. Not up to a boil yet, but it appears to be fine. What I'm worried about is that the fuse on the left is the original and the one on the right is what I used to replace it. They are very different, but I don't know enough about fuses to know what that difference is. Anyone?
Click to expand...

If others want to prevent a blown fuse should we just not run it at 3500 watts? Or does that really have no affect?
 
Brewed my first batch on the Avantco 2/26/12. That was 73 beers ago. A lot of that was at 3500W. Why it picked this time to blow the fuse, I don't know, but it won't stop me from continuing to use full power. Especially for boils in the 13 gallon range.

That said, the fuse blowing 10 minutes into the boil really ruined my brewday. Got through it, but not fun.
 

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