Does anyone see any problem with using a heat stick in combination with an induction burner? I just want to make sure the induction part isn't compromised or something.
Will this cheap 3500 watt induction burner work?
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No problem with giving it a little help.
So I got one of the Bayou classic 1060 models and did a test with about 5 layers (25ft) of the refletix stuff and was still not that impressed with the heating power of 6 gallons. I have seen it posted but I also noticed that only the inner rings are active. Does this matter, is it putting all of the power into that ring or does the outer ring need to be active in order to get full power?
I've only seen the inner ring active with my 1316 tri-ply.
Contrary to what I thought too, there are no rings or zones in these plates. It's one coil. The induction creates a heating zone (disk shaped) in the bottom of your pot. All the heat energy generated there is supplied by the burner's coil. If you have a way to measure the current or watts drawn from your mains, you have a decent indication how many watts are being delivered to heat your pot, minus a few for the electronics and resistance of the coil itself, likely less than 4%.
It seemed that my 15 gallon triple ply bottomed pot's heating "disc" is slightly larger than that of my 8 gallon one. I didn't measure it.
rayf
Well-Known Member
Hello all. I have been following this thread for some time. I took the plunge and I have received my avantco ic3500. I have my 20 amp 220v outlet ready to go. I have tested my IC with a 7.5 gallon tri kettle With 7 gallons of water this thing rocks! I also have a 9 gallon stainless I used on an outdoor burner. The 9 gallon stainless was not compatible at all with the IC. I would like to purchase a 15 gallon tall boy to use with the IC. Are any of you using the 15 gallon Tallboy?
JustLooking
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As far as I know, in the homebrew world, an IC is an immersion chiller.
rayf
Well-Known Member
In this case I meant Induction cooker!
I just ordered one today so I'm hoping it works well
I just got one today so I'm hoping it works well
rayf
Well-Known Member
Have you given it a test run yet?
I've been using my IC3500 for a few months now. It works great. I've used it for brewing 2-5gal full 90min boils, mashing (biab), making stocks, crab and shrimp boils, making 5gal of gumbo, and many other uses. Sometimes I wish I had another one.
rayf
Well-Known Member
Have you done any tests on the ic3500 with your 15 gallon Tall Boy? I have received and done water tests with my tall boy and ic3500. I'm not so impressed. I can not get a very good boil going with 10 gallons of water with the lid off. With the lid on it does well. This kettle is well made and very nice. I'm wondering if the neoprene sleeve that you all have discussed earlier in this thread will help?
I haven't boiled wort yet but did a test of 4g of water and it was considerably faster than the Bayau 1060 for me at least, then again that was with 5g so I should have made them equal there.
I have the details at home but I remember from 80 to boil was about 29 minutes and that is lifting the lid every 2 minutes to take the temp. It was moving at a solid 9 degrees every 2 minutes or 4.5 until it got above 180 or so, then slowed a bit.
I brewed last weekend but used my newly created heatstick to maintain a 6.5g boil nicely. I will be using this in combination of the IC3500 to heat up and help boil 13g of wort.
scruffymmh
Well-Known Member
So to flesh this out some more, and assuming 15g tallboy kettle, using just the ic3500:
You say you can't get a good boil going with 10g and w/o lid, but with lid it does well. Of course, it's not as difficult to maintain a boil as it is to get it going. So if we attempt to bring, say, 13g of wort up to boil from mash/sparge temp, with lid on, do you think that is possible? Is it possible to then take lid off at that point and continue a sufficient boil for 60-90 mins? Basically, is it possible to do 10g batches using this burner? I've read elsewhere that it is not, but I'm not convinced.
chocotaco
Well-Known Member
The beauty of induction is you can insulate your kettle much better than if you could were you applying flame directly to it. Since there will be no flame, as long as your insulation isn't metallic it won't be in any danger.
Insulate your kettle really well and you'll have no trouble boiling a 10-gallon batch. That's my opinion, anyway. I only have a 10-gallon kettle so I can't test it myself.
borealis
Well-Known Member
I know people like anoldur have had success insulating with neoprene. What do you think about this? http://www.keg-skins.com/shop/
I was concerned about the metal zipper. Is that an issue?
I was concerned about the metal zipper. Is that an issue?
As long as the zipper is not on the bottom it would be ok. zippers are normally non magnetic anyhow.
If it covers the bottom you would have to cut that out and this material may not tolerate heat, so for a 39.95 experiment,
I wouldn't recommend it.
If it covers the bottom you would have to cut that out and this material may not tolerate heat, so for a 39.95 experiment,
I wouldn't recommend it.
chocotaco
Well-Known Member
I've been thinking about getting a Spaceloft blanket (aerogel blanket) and sandwiching that between two layers of Reflectix. It would be expensive (the spaceloft would be 50 bucks or so) but it would be unbeatable for insulation.
jeffmeh
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Interesting idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aspen-Aerog...phobic-Mat-Per-Linear-Foot-10mm-/180860317203
Not very thick, but relatively inexpensive. I don't know if you found a cheaper source.
chocotaco
Well-Known Member
Nope, that's exactly what I was looking at. By my calculations I would probably need 2 linear feet to be able to be sure of having enough to cover the whole kettle and lid. R-value of one layer would be about 4.5 which isn't amazing, but is pretty good for the thickness of the material (and definitely sufficient for getting great boils and steady mashes)
chocotaco
Well-Known Member
P.S. the rolls are 57" (4.75 ft) so 2 linear feet is 9.5 sq ft.
chocotaco
Well-Known Member
Heads up for anyone who has been thinking about getting one of these IC3500 units (or getting another one).
They are on sale for $148.99 (reg $179.99) at webstaurantstore.com with code FSRANGES through 10/8.
They are on sale for $148.99 (reg $179.99) at webstaurantstore.com with code FSRANGES through 10/8.
dang! I just bought mine
I finally pulled the trigger, didn't use the code above and it is October 12th, but I still got it for $149 +$11 shipping
Got my unit yesterday and gave it a "wet" water run tonight. I also posted this in the other thread, but will throw the info in a quote below with a link to the other thread. My concern is although it appeared to be boiling, the temp wouldn't go above 209°F. I put the lid on and it got to 210°F and started leaking water out the top from violent bubbling! Should this be a concern? Anyone else with this unit getting actual boil temps?
FWIW, boiling point at your altitude is 210.4F
Mine is 209.9F and it gets there for me, although it certainly isn't the thunderous type of boil you get from a propane burner. After 10 batches I've pleased been with the results.
Depending on how I feel I might partially cover with the lid now and then during the boil and always after dropping in the IC. Nary a trace of DMS ever detected...
Mine is 209.9F and it gets there for me, although it certainly isn't the thunderous type of boil you get from a propane burner. After 10 batches I've pleased been with the results.
Depending on how I feel I might partially cover with the lid now and then during the boil and always after dropping in the IC. Nary a trace of DMS ever detected...
Thanks! I didn't even consider that in the mix. Is it possible that I was getting 212 degrees the last time I brewed because there was sugar in the liquid versus just plain water tonight? I know when you're trying to make candy with sugar the temperature can get a lot higher
I believe there is some merit in that. i was going to mention that the boil is a bit more vigorous with wort than just plain water, but got distracted 
moshmont
Active Member
Just bought my second 3500 this morning!
On sale for $149.00 @ WEBstaurantStore com!
On sale for $149.00 @ WEBstaurantStore com!
I now have 2 of these and I also got one of each the Bayou classic 1060 and the 15g tall boy (tri clad) to try and see which one worked better. I have used both seperately now but plan on a dual batch side by side comparison with BIAG no sparge batches in each.
So far I have supplemented power with heat sticks which really speeds up the heat times and actually the 2000w heat stick will maintain 7g of boiling wort easily by itself
So far I have supplemented power with heat sticks which really speeds up the heat times and actually the 2000w heat stick will maintain 7g of boiling wort easily by itself
Duke-a-Beer
Member
Ok just read the whole post start to finish, lots of info there...
Not a electrical dude, but know enough to be dangerous.
I am in New Zealand and we run on 240vac single phase, 50/60Hz.
I am assuming that the Avantco 3500 will run fine in NZ with a 20A circuit breaker?
I have a 20A circuit for my spa pool so I can run an extension cord.
Now these units are not available in NZ, so I will need to import one. That means air freight. Can someone tell me the weight of this unit and roughly the box size? This is so I can work out the air freight cost.
Now for my main question.
Would you still use this Induction cook top if you could use / have a large four ring burner ready to go and no issues brewing in the shed as it never gets to hot or cold.?
The only reason is gas cost.... I would say it is costing me $10 for each brew in gas so I would save $400 a year in gas... Is it worth it?
I have a great high quality 50l (13g) brew pot that is magnetic.
Thanks for your help.
Not a electrical dude, but know enough to be dangerous.
I am in New Zealand and we run on 240vac single phase, 50/60Hz.
I am assuming that the Avantco 3500 will run fine in NZ with a 20A circuit breaker?
I have a 20A circuit for my spa pool so I can run an extension cord.
Now these units are not available in NZ, so I will need to import one. That means air freight. Can someone tell me the weight of this unit and roughly the box size? This is so I can work out the air freight cost.
Now for my main question.
Would you still use this Induction cook top if you could use / have a large four ring burner ready to go and no issues brewing in the shed as it never gets to hot or cold.?
The only reason is gas cost.... I would say it is costing me $10 for each brew in gas so I would save $400 a year in gas... Is it worth it?
I have a great high quality 50l (13g) brew pot that is magnetic.
Thanks for your help.
rayf
Well-Known Member
What are all of you induction users using to ventilate your basement brewing steam?
If you can set the burners up near a window some people are using box fans, or a direct vent through the window. A lot of people are buying the 6" fans and ducting to the outside. I started a thread to request info, but it did not garner a whole lot of replies
If anyone hasn't replied to that thread, please do so here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/request-steam-ventillation-information-474114/
The shipping box is 16x19x6". I estimate 15 pounds total, it's not that heavy. The sides are encased in preformed foam, and there's an inch foam pad to protect the glass plate. Double boxing will add weight and size, but may not be a bad idea, since there are hollow spaces where the glass plate and bottom are.
These come from China and maybe sold under different "brand" names elsewhere.
They're rated 208-240V, so you're in good shape with your 20A spa panel.
However to do 13 gallon boils you'll need some extra oomph in addition to the IC3500, such as a 2000W heat stick. I can only boil 13 gallons using the IC3500 solely if I leave the lid on partially, and insulate the sides. Outdoors, you got to factor in wind chill too.
If electricity (kWh price) is relatively cheap, you'd make your money back within a year.
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Yep, I have yet to do a 10g batch (13+ gallons of wort) but I can certainly see how you need more umph especially to get to a boil in a descent amount of time. I am even using 2000w heatstick on 5g batches just to speed temp rises oh and they go quick.
Duke-a-Beer
Member
Sorry forgot to add that I only do 6g brews (23l) so I expect not to need the extra grunt.
Is gas or induction better?
I will time my zero to mash and mash to boil and see how it compares.
Next brew this weekend.
Is gas or induction better?
I will time my zero to mash and mash to boil and see how it compares.
Next brew this weekend.
Did anyone ever figure out an easy jumper for this guy? At minimum i'd like to do this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190823366460?lpid=82) but with an inline 20a breaker. Not having much luck finding a simple extension cord option, or a small subpanel i could wire it through. I've skimmed the first 20 pages again, but didn't see it.
I'm comfortable snapping breakers into a standard panel, but i'm trying to stick to the dryer connection until my basement reno is done. Also trying to avoid the "wall -> spa panel -> project box -> din-rail breaker(s) -> outlet -> cooker" if I can.
I'm comfortable snapping breakers into a standard panel, but i'm trying to stick to the dryer connection until my basement reno is done. Also trying to avoid the "wall -> spa panel -> project box -> din-rail breaker(s) -> outlet -> cooker" if I can.
I think if you're seriously interested in using the IC3500, you should spend the time and review the thread a quite bit more thoroughly. Your answers are all here. And then some.
That eBay adapter is NOT going to work. It's an RV adapter 110V and 15A. The IC3500 needs 240V and 20A on a NEMA 6-20R receptacle.
You can make your own adapter using a dryer plug and a 6-20 socket quite easily. No need for a spa panel.
For 6 gallon batches (and a bit larger) the IC3500 is just perfect, and economical. Plus I use it for wokking, frying, and making large batches of soup, sauce, stew, and what not.
Sample scenario:
On brew day, I start heating strike water, then weight and mill the grains. By that time the strike water is about ready. After filling the mash tun, I let it sit for 5-10 minutes, take and correct the temp if needed and start mashing. About 20 minutes before the mash is done I start heating sparge water.
As soon as the first gallon of first runnings gets into the kettle I start heating them together with FWH. I keep adding more wort as it gets lautered. By the time the 2nd sparge is completely lautered I'm 15 minutes from boiling.
The heating capacity of propane or NG using a large banjo (or jet) burner is way more than the IC3500, even while almost half of that energy is wasted to the environment.
For a 6 gallon brew I can get 3-4 gallons of strike water ready in 5 minutes on my Blichmann burner, at full bore. I wouldn't have my grains ready by then, though. Now for 10-20 gallon batches the scenario changes, the potential heating output of gas gets an advantage over the IC3500, unless you use supplemental heating sources, such as elements, heating sticks, split boils, etc.
