Why So Much Foam?

[txstars15]

Lately, every extract batch I make is overly foamy. Even when poured slowly down the side of the glass, I cannot pour the entire bottle without overrunning the glass with foam.

I bottle when my SG is stable and carbonate for a full 3 weeks after bottling. Seems like maybe I should cut back to 2 wks for the carbonation to eliminate the excess foaming, except a number of posts on these forums were pretty firm on allowing a full 3 wks for carbonation to avoid flat beer.

What is everyone else doing regarding carbonation time after bottling? I'd like to be able to simply pour a full bottle into a glass without having to wait for all the foam to subside.

 

[Newbeerguy]

Lately, every extract batch I make is overly foamy. Even when poured slowly down the side of the glass, I cannot pour the entire bottle without overrunning the glass with foam.

I bottle when my SG is stable and carbonate for a full 3 weeks after bottling. Seems like maybe I should cut back to 2 wks for the carbonation to eliminate the excess foaming, except a number of posts on these forums were pretty firm on allowing a full 3 wks for carbonation to avoid flat beer.

What is everyone else doing regarding carbonation time after bottling? I'd like to be able to simply pour a full bottle into a glass without having to wait for all the foam to subside.

How big of batches are you making and how much priming sugar are you using? Sounds to me like you're beers are just overcarbed. Generally somewhere between 4-5oz of corn sugar per 5 gallons of beer will work good for you.

 

[Jadisan]

I have this problem in one batch I have done, the Honey Brown extract kit from Northern Brewer. It turned out really nice, except if you aren't careful you can pour an entire pint of head. I used the priming sugar amount they suggested.
I thought it was happening to a more recent batch of blonde as well but it seems it was just the one bottle.

It kinda drives me nuts every time I have one.

 

[Piratwolf]

Lately, every extract batch I make is overly foamy. Even when poured slowly down the side of the glass, I cannot pour the entire bottle without overrunning the glass with foam.

I bottle when my SG is stable and carbonate for a full 3 weeks after bottling. Seems like maybe I should cut back to 2 wks for the carbonation to eliminate the excess foaming, except a number of posts on these forums were pretty firm on allowing a full 3 wks for carbonation to avoid flat beer.

What is everyone else doing regarding carbonation time after bottling? I'd like to be able to simply pour a full bottle into a glass without having to wait for all the foam to subside.

My beers are usually bottle carbed in Under a week. That's different from conditioning; maybe that's what people mean with the three weeks? Not sure what that's about... Regardless, cutting to two weeks will not solve the problem.

Are you using English yeast? I've found that S-04 (dry), Wyeast 1968 & WLP Edinburgh yeasts all have yielded the same foam issue for me no matter what style of beer. I'm going to cold crash before bottling to drop as much yeast as possible and cut the priming sugar down to the lowest amount for the style. I'll report back in a few weeks to see what happens.

 

[txstars15]

By 3 weeks, I am referring to the amount of time I let the bottled brew sit at 70deg. to allow for carbonation before moving the bottles to cold storage. That is the amount of time I have read that one should allow for full carbonation.

I am using the amount of priming sugar supplied in the extract kit. Since it is pre-measured in a sealed package, I don't mess with it, just use it all when preparing to bottle.

 

[Newbeerguy]

By 3 weeks, I am referring to the amount of time I let the bottled brew sit at 70deg. to allow for carbonation before moving the bottles to cold storage. That is the amount of time I have read that one should allow for full carbonation.

I am using the amount of priming sugar supplied in the extract kit. Since it is pre-measured in a sealed package, I don't mess with it, just use it all when preparing to bottle.

Yep 3 weeks at 70 is fine. How are you mixing in your priming sugar? Do you boil the sugar for a few minutes in a cup or 2 of water, let it cool, pour into your bottling bucket and siphon the beer on top of the sugar allowing the beer to swirl around the bucket (not splash though)? That should be enough to distribute the sugar evenly.

Is it all bottles or just some of them? I still think it is an over carb issue. Because it won't become "more carbed" with more time at 70, after the yeast ferment the priming sugar the level of carbonation will remain the same after that...well after the Co2 is asorbed into the beer, which is why 3 weeks is typically long enough for normal gravity beers.

What kits are you using? I'd still like to find out how much priming sugar they are supplying you with.

 

[biestie]

Just for grins, I'd degas a sample and check the SG of the beer now.

 

[Golddiggie]

By 3 weeks, I am referring to the amount of time I let the bottled brew sit at 70deg. to allow for carbonation before moving the bottles to cold storage. That is the amount of time I have read that one should allow for full carbonation.

I am using the amount of priming sugar supplied in the extract kit. Since it is pre-measured in a sealed package, I don't mess with it, just use it all when preparing to bottle.

Instead of blindly following the pre-measured packet of sugar supplied with the kit (hint, the toss that into EVERY kit, without changing it, so a stout gets the same amount as a hefe), use an actual calculator for how much to prime with. One like this site for example. Enter in the information, select the sugar type and then weigh out that much sugar. Be sure to include how much brew you're actually bottling. If you put 5 gallons into primary, chances are you'll be bottling more like 4.5 gallons. I would also aim for either the middle of a style range, or the lower end.

Are you confirming FG by taking a second (exactly matching) reading 3+ days from the first one? If not, then do so.
How long was the brew in process? What was the OG?
How long are you chilling the bottle(s) before pouring? If only a day, give it a solid week. If a week try longer. Some brews need more time to pull the CO2 back into solution.

BTW, different carbonation levels across bottles from the same batch, increasing carbonation levels as time passed (weeks/months), are just two of the reasons why I switched to kegging. Not saying that you should, I'm just saying those are issues I no longer face. IF I have a keg that's over carbonated, it's an easy fix. If your bottles are over carbonated, it's pretty much screwed for that batch.

 

[txstars15]

Golddiggie-
Yes, I take a starting gravity read then wait a week and start re-testing until no lower reading is had. After carbing for 3 wks, I move to a cold frig around 40 for the duration. I resist sampling the brew for at least a week or two.

Yes, I have been taking the full 5oz of priming sugar, dissolving in boiling water, then pouring it into the priming bucket as it is being filled. I gently stir after that to ensure a good mix and bottle and cap.

 

[Piratwolf]

Yes, I have been taking the full 5oz of priming sugar, dissolving in boiling water, then pouring it into the priming bucket as it is being filled. I gently stir after that to ensure a good mix and bottle and cap.

so I'm confused by several of your posts, txstars15, and the quoted section above is an example of why. Golddiggie suggested that you look into calculating the correct amount of priming sugar and you replied with, "Yes..." and an overview of your process. His point is that doing what you're doing IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM.

If you don't want to fix the problem, don't change things. But if you do, it might be useful to adopt suggestions from guys like him. He's helped me figure out some problems along the way as well

 

[txstars15]

My "yes" response was directed toward the comment about taking SG readings. I will be doing the calculations to determine the right amount of sugar for the batch.

 

[Piratwolf]

My mistake, then!

 

[BrewKnurd]

While i agree that carbing to style is a good plan, 5oz of sugar for a 5 gallon batch shouldn't cause the level of carbonation that the op seems to be describing.

 

[Golddiggie]

I would hold off on doing so many SG readings to determine the FG... I kegged a batch that had been in primary for just over three weeks. It's my caramel ale recipe (version 1.1) with an OG of 1.064 (I use yeast starters, nutrient in the wort boil and pure O2 to oxygenate all my brews). FG is 1.014. I know my yeast strains pretty well by now (I use the same few for everything). With the mash temp, it was dead on target.

Point is, refrain from taking SG readings after a week. Give it 3-4 weeks for lower OG brews (I consider 1.064 a 'lower' OG batch). For higher OG batches (I would draw the line around 1.070, give it more time. Just because it's at FG doesn't necessarily mean it's ready for bottle/keg. Take a SG sample, and then taste it. After doing this enough times you'll learn when the yeast has done all it will/can for the brew and it's time to bottle/keg. Temperature control can impact this too, with tighter control over the temperature (keeping the yeast in it's happy range) making the brew ready faster (typically) since it won't have as much to clean up after once fermentation is complete.

Personally, I have a thermowell in my fermenter, with a temperature sensor sent down that (to the bottom) with a stopper at the top of the thermowell (to keep the temperature inside the thermowell stable). It's within 1 degree F of the fermenting beer, so it works out really well. Plus it displays hi/low/current temperatures. IME, this is far more accurate than the thermometers you stick on the outside of your fermenter.

 

[Golddiggie]

While i agree that carbing to style is a good plan, 5oz of sugar for a 5 gallon batch shouldn't cause the level of carbonation that the op seems to be describing.

Overcarbonation to this level could, very well, be due to the batch actually not being ready for bottles when bottled. This is why I believe in giving enough time before going to bottle. When kegging you at least have a way to safely vent excess CO2 in the keg. I've done it (outside of the brew fridge) simply by putting a gauge on the gas post, and then pulling the relief ring several times (over several hours). I've also used a spudding valve on a gas QD set to release most of the pressure in the keg (leaving about 8 psi in it) and letting it sit overnight. That seems to work really well.

 

[BrewKnurd]

Overcarbonation to this level could, very well, be due to the batch actually not being ready for bottles when bottled. This is why I believe in giving enough time before going to bottle. When kegging you at least have a way to safely vent excess CO2 in the keg. I've done it (outside of the brew fridge) simply by putting a gauge on the gas post, and then pulling the relief ring several times (over several hours). I've also used a spudding valve on a gas QD set to release most of the pressure in the keg (leaving about 8 psi in it) and letting it sit overnight. That seems to work really well.

Agreed. Carb like described is either significantly too much sugar, bottling with fermentables remaining, or wild yeast/bacteria. At least those are the only reasons I can think of.

 

[Golddiggie]

Agreed. Carb like described is either significantly too much sugar, bottling with fermentables remaining, or wild yeast/bacteria. At least those are the only reasons I can think of.

All sound reasons, and in line with what most people find... Also pretty easily avoided without too much difficulty. The sugar amount can be made right by using one of the good calculator tools (online mostly). Giving the brew enough time, and taking properly spaced SG readings to determine actual FG is a good way to ensure nothing fermentable remains. When in doubt, give it another week and check again. Wild yeast/bacteria can be avoided by not leaving it exposed any long than you must.

I use a clean towel soaked in StarSan, then wrung out before being draped over any opening where something can fall into my precious brew. This is mostly once I've pitched the yeast, since I also minimize exposure while transferring from keggle. I did this just tonight while transferring from fermenter to my two 3 gallon serving kegs. I used a spray bottle of StarSan for surfaces that couldn't be dunked. I covered the keg lid opening while transferring into the keg, when not peeking inside to check the level. I also had the lids sitting on a small bucket of StarSan to ensure they would be kosher.

 

[BrewingSailor]

Agreed. Carb like described is either significantly too much sugar, bottling with fermentables remaining, or wild yeast/bacteria. At least those are the only reasons I can think of.

+1.
Also, as was mentioned in a previous post, putting your beer in the fridge will not stop fermentation if it isn't complete. It will just slow it down. It will only stop fermenting (carbonating) when all of the fermentables are consumed by the yeast. Additionally, if you had significantly less volume than planned through too much boil off or fermenter loss it will increase the ratio of sugar to wort and cause overcarbonating. I would say if you bottled 45 or more 12 oz. bottles this will not be an issue.

The only other thing I can think of is if you have any hop matter or trub in the bottles it will act as a fermentable and cause overcarbing. This can happen if you dry hop with pellet hops and get them into the bottling bucket, or get trub in the bottling bucket when transferring from the fermenter. When checking the final gravity make sure it is stable for several days - don't just assume it has reached its final gravity if it is at what your recipe suggests for a final gravity, and don't assume that if a certain amount of time has passed it is done fermenting. This means taking a daily readings for several days.

Hey - there are worse things that can happen to your beer. Pour, stir it up a little, let it settle, and enjoy your home brew!