Is it a bad idea to transfer already bottle carbed beer to new bottles?

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Ali01

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I have loads of 1 to 2 liters PET bottles that have been very reliable, used them to bottle condition a hefe to 3 volumes, no explosion, so the idea is to bottle condition beer to up to 3 volumes in these bottles, cool them in the fridge, make a bottle cap with two tubes like the picture, sanitize everything, then use an air pump to transfer the beer into the new glass bottles and cap them right on the top of the foam, I'll lose some carbonation, but don't know how much, any idea? I'll also pour some potassium metabisulfate powder in each glass bottle to prevent infection and oxidation, just to be safe
I think this will result in clear beer
Picsart_23-10-31_12-09-56-441.jpg
 
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I don’t think your beer would go from well carbonated to flat, but like you mention you would lose some. I would also think you’ll end up with a foamy mess when you try to transfer. Finally I think if you’re using air to push the beer you’re going to oxidize your beer regardless of adding k meta.

Personally I wouldn’t do it, there’s a very good chance of ruining the batch just to rebottle for clear beer.
 
Perhaps just let the beer settle a little longer before bottling, use 12 oz bottles, and then carefully pour into a glass and you can avoid the sediment that way..
 
Perhaps just let the beer settle a little longer before bottling, use 12 oz bottles, and then carefully pour into a glass and you can avoid the sediment that way..
I'm gonna use s04, people say it will stick to the bottom of the bottles, is that true?
 
In my experience years back, S04 stuck pretty well to the bottom of the bottle. Like Madscientist said, I would leave it in the fermenter for a little longer to let the yeast cake compact as much as possible then work to carefully transfer as much clear beer off the top for bottling. This should reduce the amount of sediment in the bottle as well.
 
the idea is to bottle condition beer to up to 3 volumes in these bottles, cool them in the fridge, make a bottle cap with two tubes like the picture, sanitize everything, then use an air pump to transfer the beer into the new glass bottles and cap them right on the top of the foam
I know it can be hard for you to source things where you live, but if you really want to do this then you should try to find or fabricate something like this:

1698767704157.jpeg

The 2 liter soda bottle is now basically a mini-keg. And if at all possible, you should use CO2 to push the beer out instead of air. Once in a pinch, I used fermentation gas captured in balloons to push starsan out of a mini-keg by hand. Of course, filling bottles that way would be a two person job.

But anyway, bottle-conditioned beers do clear, especially if kept cold. You just have to pour carefully to keep the sediment out of your glass. Some yeasts do pack more tightly and stick to the bottom better than others, and yes, S-04 is one of the better ones.
 
^^ That exactly! I've done the same thing to carb smaller amounts of 'leftover' beer after filling my larger kegs.
Hopefully you can source the Kegland carb-caps and tee's...If you haven't checked yet, you can look at Keglands distributer map and see if there is one in a country that can ship to you...might be useful for other brewing orders as well:
https://www.kegland.com.au/pages/distributor:mug:
 
I know it can be hard for you to source things where you live, but if you really want to do this then you should try to find or fabricate something like this:

View attachment 832852

The 2 liter soda bottle is now basically a mini-keg. And if at all possible, you should use CO2 to push the beer out instead of air. Once in a pinch, I used fermentation gas captured in balloons to push starsan out of a mini-keg by hand. Of course, filling bottles that way would be a two person job.
so it looks like a T fitting with corny keg post fitted? Where do you get that? Also how do you attach the pickup tube?
 
[...] then use an air pump to transfer the beer [...]
Please, don't use air to transfer beer.* The 21% Oxygen component in air will oxidize your precious beer.
Instead, use CO2.
Or Nitrogen, if that's easier to obtain.

* Rule of thumb: Prevent any air contact with beer once fermentation has started.
The little bit of air that gets absorbed/included while bottling gets used up by the yeast during bottle conditioning, which is a second fermentation, which results in you beer becoming carbonated.

But already carbonated and cleared beer won't be able to use up that oxygen.
 
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I would also think you’ll end up with a foamy mess when you try to transfer.
That's the main drawback. Unless he fills the bottles under counter pressure. For example by using a drilled rubber stopper and preferably a spring-loaded filling tube.*

It helps even more when the beer and bottles are (ice) cold when filling.

* A #2 stopper works for most 12oz longnecks and 22oz bombers. Not sure of the opening size in the OP's bottles.
 
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