Who else uses 34/70 on the regular?

[oldschool]

I really like this yeast. I’ve been such a dry yeast hater over the years but now I’m team 34/70 to the bone.

I still don’t direct pitch it though. I feel like people will get mad about this but I make 600ml of sterile wort and tap just a dusting in from the 34/70 pack then the next day split the 600ml into two more flasks with 1.2l of sterile wort each. Decant, then it’s good for a 12-14 plato beer.

The reason is that I notice a strange aroma from the dry yeast when rehydrated. Not saying in the finished beer necessarily but rehydrate some dry yeast in a large quantity and sniff. It smells weird so I try to use much less fresh dry yeast. Lager need a bigger pitch so the way to achieve this is the process mentioned.
Highly recommend to anyone wanting to make very clean beers with 34/70.

Also Omega German lager 1, Wyeast 2124, and wlp 830 behave (and taste) differently than 34/70 fermentis. Also the Fermentis characteristics seem to closely resemble the hefebank stats.

I wish I could get a real-deal homebrew pack of 34/70 to test against the fermentis.

Lager!

 

[Andre3000]

I have been trying to master pilsner for the last few years or so and part of that is split batches with yeast being the only difference. Currently have W34/70 and 2124 on tap and to my taste buds, the 2124 is the superior beer. I did another comparison with Escarpment Isar and it won out as well. W34/70 was direct pitched in both cases.

Maybe I should try your starter method for a cleaner beer.

Edit: I should add that I am quite conflicted. I have had some beers from other homebrewers that were brewed with W34/70 that have been exceptional, but when I do the side by sides like above, it never wins out.

 

[AlexKay]

I mostly use dry yeast, and exclusively 34/70. It is so easy. I think it’s a superior strain for lagers when you just want the yeast to clear outta the way for other flavors: Doppelbock, Baltic Porter, rauchbier, cold IPA. But I use it for Pilsners too.

I’ve done the side-by-side with 2124, and didn’t notice a strong difference. I will be the first to admit I don’t have the most sensitive palate, though.

If you’re dipping your toes into the world of dry yeast, try Lallemand Koln next.

 

[SBENCIV]

I only use dry yeast and always direct pitch. 34/70 is my go to yeast for my bohemian pilz. Currently have a bo pilz fermenting away with 34/70 as I type. I also ferment this yeast at 60 degrees and just keep it there till kegging day. Has always been a great workhorse for me and I've loved the results. That said, I've never done a side by side with other lager strains. So possible there's another dry lager yeast I may prefer. Could be an opportunity in the future.

 

[shetc]

I use 34/70 often, and just toss it in. Just for the hell of it, I have a rauchbier fermenting right now with Lalbrew Diamond at 50F - it was also just dry pitched, and was cranking in like 18 hours.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Love me some 34/70. I can make some good beers with it. Direct pitch and ferment in the high 50s.

 

[oldschool]

I have been trying to master pilsner for the last few years or so and part of that is split batches with yeast being the only difference. Currently have W34/70 and 2124 on tap and to my taste buds, the 2124 is the superior beer. I did another comparison with Escarpment Isar and it won out as well. W34/70 was direct pitched in both cases.

Maybe I should try your starter method for a cleaner beer.

Edit: I should add that I am quite conflicted. I have had some beers from other homebrewers that were brewed with W34/70 that have been exceptional, but when I do the side by sides like above, it never wins out.

For one I will say that I truly think the starter method results in a cleaner beer than direct pitching. We’re talking lagers here. Direct pitch a hazy ipa with s04 and it’s a different story.
But not going to say one yeast is better than the other but will say that 2124 and the Omega version are quite powdery compared to the quick floc of 34/70. So only in that, it must be different

 

[MicroMickey]

I also prefer 34/70 over the liquid equilavents. I was somewhat relieved to find another experienced guy in the club has had the same preference for this yeast. It starts faster, finishes a bit quicker, and is just as clean as the liquid yeasts. I still use 2206 for Bocks and 2633 for Marzen style beers.

 

[AZ Maverick]

Another W34/70 user here.
I mostly brew German style lagers.
Here in the middle of Arizona I can't get liquid yeast during the summer (no LHBS), because it doesn't survive the heat while sitting on my outside porch waiting for me to pick it up - so I exclusively use 34/70.
However, I also don't direct pitch, I usually make a one or two stage starter (depending on OG) and then pitch when the wort has cooled to 53°F.
It ferments great, usually finishes in under a week, has a high attenuation, and clears up nicely.
I really don't have a reason not to use it, even during the winter when I can get liquid yeast.

 

[Ramjet]

I am currently using 45/70 on a swartzbier and pressure fermentation for the first time. I'll see how it comes out.

 

[AZ Maverick]

I am currently using 45/70 on a swartzbier and pressure fermentation for the first time. I'll see how it comes out.

When I use my 45/70 on Schwarzbier, the bullet really ruins the whole batch.
But I use 34/70 always when I make Schwarzbier, in fact I have a batch of Schwarzbier going right now and it's coming along nicely!

 

[passedpawn]

You guys might want to try S-189. I had an "off" batch of beer a few years ago with 34/70 and switched, no regrets.

 

[oldschool]

When I use my 45/70 on Schwarzbier, the bullet really ruins the whole batch.
But I use 34/70 always when I make Schwarzbier, in fact I have a batch of Schwarzbier going right now and it's coming along nicely!

Can you post your recipe? Maybe that should be in a different thread, I dunno

 

[Ramjet]

When I use my 45/70 on Schwarzbier, the bullet really ruins the whole batch.

Yes a 45/70 bullet would definitely ruin a batch. LOL.
I would love to own one of those

 

[Basspaleale]

I to was a big fan of the 34/70 but because of my continue quest for the authentic German Pilsner flavor I switched to the WLP833 German Bock Lager yeast. I know that sounds a little crazy but for my fellows German Pils enthusiast, give it a try. It really brings out that malt flavor as well as adds to the dryness that is associated with this great style.

 

[wdavis2003]

You guys might want to try S-189. I had an "off" batch of beer a few years ago with 34/70 and switched, no regrets.

S-23 is great too. Best lager I've produced to date. Fermented under pressure and it was crystal clear in 9 days. 34/70 is taking a month to 6 weeks to drop clear for me. I don't use finings

 

[Dog House Brew]

I’m an outlier I guess, never cared for 34/70. I’ve tried it over and over and always like the others better. I’ll take
S-189 over it any day. When I want a little more malt S-23. S-23 is what I use more than any other dry yeast. I’m brewing a 20g batch next and will split between these 2 yeasts.

 

[Andre3000]

I to was a big fan of the 34/70 but because of my continue quest for the authentic German Pilsner flavor I switched to the WLP833 German Bock Lager yeast. I know that sounds a little crazy but for my fellows German Pils enthusiast, give it a try. It really brings out that malt flavor as well as adds to the dryness that is associated with this great style.

Can confirm 833 is a great yeast.

 

[Andre3000]

I also prefer 34/70 over the liquid equilavents. I was somewhat relieved to find another experienced guy in the club has had the same preference for this yeast. It starts faster, finishes a bit quicker, and is just as clean as the liquid yeasts. I still use 2206 for Bocks and 2633 for Marzen style beers.

Really? I have found W34/70, and all dry yeasts for that matter, to lag behind any liquid yeast w/ starter in terms of visible activity by at least 12 hours and if memory serves, even longer with W34/70, so I am pretty surprised to hear that.

How are you pitching?

 

[AlexKay]

I’m an outlier I guess, never cared for 34/70. I’ve tried it over and over and always like the others better. I’ll take
S-189 over it any day. When I want a little more malt S-23. S-23 is what I use more than any other dry yeast. I’m brewing a 20g batch next and will split between these 2 yeasts.

I tried S189 for the first time on a high-gravity beer, and it couldn't cut it. Fermentis claims both 189 and 34/70 are 9-11%, but in my experience 34/70 can handle much higher than that. Obviously not relevant for most lagers...

 

[passedpawn]

I tried S189 for the first time on a high-gravity beer, and it couldn't cut it. Fermentis claims both 189 and 34/70 are 9-11%, but in my experience 34/70 can handle much higher than that. Obviously not relevant for most lagers...

Wow. I don't doubt you. But I have to ask... 10% cold-fermented? Or did you just try this yeast on an ale.

What's "the rest of the story"? What was OG/FG?

 

[MaxStout]

I had attenuation problems with S-189. Brewed a Doppelbock, OG 1.086. Pitched 3 packets of rehydrated 189, oxygenated the wort with pure O2. After more than a month, SG was stuck at 1.028, for 67%AA. This was quite low for a yeast that was billed as yielding 80-84% AA. I had done a single infusion at 152F, so mash temp shouldn't have been the culprit. I bumped up the ferm temp for a few days, no change. I pitched a packet of rehydrated US-05 and gave it another week, dropped to 1.022.

I did like the flavor imparted by the S-189. I just hesitate to spend ~$7/pack for this again.

 

[passedpawn]

Noted. I have not used it for anything much north of 1.050 for as long as I've been using it.

 

[AlexKay]

Wow. I don't doubt you. But I have to ask... 10% cold-fermented? Or did you just try this yeast on an ale.

What's "the rest of the story"? What was OG/FG?

It was a blueberry barleywine. I was fermenting in my garage in winter, and it stays in the low-to-mid 50s, so I pitched a lager yeast and didn't think anything of it, since 34/70 has always been a workhorse. But I had a pack of S189, so I used that instead.

OG was 1.128, but that doesn't figure in the 68 Brix juice concentrate I added mid-fermentation. I didn't measure FG (since the juice throws off any calculations anyhow), but the finished beer was very, very sweet.

Looking over my records, I've had no trouble with 34/70 with batches at 1.087 (Baltic porter), 1.090 and 1.096 (doppelbock), and 1.095 and 1.100 (braggot). But not anything higher. But I never put it up against 1.128, so perhaps I'm being unfair to S189.

 

[oldschool]

Really? I have found W34/70, and all dry yeasts for that matter, to lag behind any liquid yeast w/ starter in terms of visible activity by at least 12 hours and if memory serves, even longer with W34/70, so I am pretty surprised to hear that.

How are you pitching?

I know this wasn’t directed at me but as I outlined in my op I think it’s important to make a starter from a small amount of the pack. I don’t have much issue with direct pitching dry ale yeasts but with dry lager, a starter of some sort is very helpful. I’m going to guess it’s a function of temperature. Lager yeast like to be warm after all and waking up cold maybe is what leads to some issues. Not sure.
Like I said I’ll do a two step starter with around 1 gram of the dry 34/70 then go from there and discard the rest of the pack. A shame really, wish I could buy 1 gram packs

 

[TheCache]

I’ve been using 34/70 for my medium OG darker lagers: Bock, Märzen, etc. Have not tried it in lighter lagers, usually use diamond for those.

I’m really happy with 34/70. I dry pitch around 1.5 packs for a 2.5G batch up to 1.062. Activity usually begins within 18-24 hours. I ferment at 52 until activity starts to slow (3 days or so) then let it rise a degree a day up to 62, then crash around day 15. Attenuation is around 69-72 which is very normal for most of my beers. These styles tend to be lower ibu, but the end result is a malty, not sweet beer, so dryer side but not overly so. Hop bitterness and flavor is there but very balanced. I always look forward to cracking these brews open. They are my fall/winter treat.

Trying a Schawrzbier with S-189 next so I’ll have some comparison soon.

 

[Andre3000]

I know this wasn’t directed at me but as I outlined in my op I think it’s important to make a starter from a small amount of the pack. I don’t have much issue with direct pitching dry ale yeasts but with dry lager, a starter of some sort is very helpful. I’m going to guess it’s a function of temperature. Lager yeast like to be warm after all and waking up cold maybe is what leads to some issues. Not sure.
Like I said I’ll do a two step starter with around 1 gram of the dry 34/70 then go from there and discard the rest of the pack. A shame really, wish I could buy 1 gram packs

Well after seeing this, I know what my next side-by-side is .

Edit: why the two step? Why not just one larger single starter with more of the packet?

 

[AmarikinBrew]

I know this wasn’t directed at me but as I outlined in my op I think it’s important to make a starter from a small amount of the pack. I don’t have much issue with direct pitching dry ale yeasts but with dry lager, a starter of some sort is very helpful. I’m going to guess it’s a function of temperature. Lager yeast like to be warm after all and waking up cold maybe is what leads to some issues. Not sure.
Like I said I’ll do a two step starter with around 1 gram of the dry 34/70 then go from there and discard the rest of the pack. A shame really, wish I could buy 1 gram packs

I rehydrate before starting with dry lager yeast

 

[bellhp]

Brewing a Marzen now ... 34/70 .
Only bad experience I've had with this yeast was one batch that got funky cuz I reused the yeast after months in the fridge . My fault not the yeast.

 

[oldschool]

Well after seeing this, I know what my next side-by-side is .

Edit: why the two step? Why not just one larger single starter with more of the packet?

Fair question. I assume not all would agree with my logic but here goes:
I don’t do cell counts with my yeast starters but in my experience as long as something isn’t wack, you will get 120-150m cells per ml. So In trying to get a big starter with a lot of new cells, I try to use less yeast from the pack.
Part of me won’t let go of the idea that the dehydrated yeast wakes up a bit stressed compared to fresh propagated. So to get more fresh yeast I use less dry yeast to begin with. I could easily be wrong but that was my logic.

I’ll probably skip the first step here at some point and see what happens. Key will be not using the correct amount.

Of course there is a lot of marketing involved with these homebrew sized yeast packs- both liquid and dry…

 

[Ramjet]

I am pressure fermenting with 34/70 as I posted earlier (except I said 45/70) I just pitched on pack of yeast without rehydration and had active fermentation by the next day. After a week I took a gravity reading and was at 1.006 and the sample was delicious.

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

Part of me won’t let go of the idea that the dehydrated yeast wakes up a bit stressed compared to fresh propagated. So to get more fresh yeast I use less dry yeast to begin with. I could easily be wrong but that was my logic.

I agree. I do starters with 34/70 and I've had the same experience, I think the yeast need time to "wake up".

I typically just throw in one packet into a 4 liter starter for 12 to 14 hours, chill, decant, pitch. In a 7 gallon batch @12 plato the lag times are 16-18 hours.

BTW, 34/70 is the best American Lager yeast I have ever used. Super clean, very low in esters, almost no red apple.

 

[bellhp]

Pitched the 34/70 dry last night and had two inches of Krauzen in the carboy this morning ... this is typical for me although I room temp ferment with swamp cooler .

 

[Dland]

I'm running 34/70 right now set at 55F brewing adjuncted lagers & CAPs. When cellar temp gets below 50F later this winter, I'll switch to S-189 to make cold lagers with higher end Pilsner malts at 50-52F.

I like beers from both yeasts, but can taste difference.

 

[AmarikinBrew]

I agree. I do starters with 34/70 and I've had the same experience, I think the yeast need time to "wake up".

I typically just throw in one packet into a 4 liter starter for 12 to 14 hours, chill, decant, pitch. In a 7 gallon batch @12 plato the lag times are 16-18 hours.

BTW, 34/70 is the best American Lager yeast I have ever used. Super clean, very low in esters, almost no red apple.

Pretty sure it's German in origin.

 

[oldschool]

Pretty sure it's German in origin.

I agree and the specs seem to check out.

https://www.hefebank-weihenstephan.de/en/products/yeast/bierhefen-untergaerig-bruchhefe/w-34-70/

 

[AmarikinBrew]

That's right from the horse's mouth, never knew that link, Thanx

 

[HighVoltageMan!]

34/70 is a German yeast. All lager yeasts originated in Europe, even the yeast used by Bud, Coors, Miller etc.

That being said, I won multiple silver medal at the NHC finals with that yeast. The NHC BOS beer in 2021 was a extract American Lager made with 34/70, I got second to him with the same yeast. It's an awesome yeast and makes a pretty good Germen Pils too.

 

[beersk]

34/70 is a German yeast. All lager yeasts originated in Europe, even the yeast used by Bud, Coors, Miller etc.

That being said, I won multiple silver medal at the NHC finals with that yeast. The NHC BOS beer in 2021 was a extract American Lager made with 34/70, I got second to him with the same yeast. It's an awesome yeast and makes a pretty good Germen Pils too.

Agreed. Even "American" lager yeast, like Wyeast 2007 is German originating.

I want to do my usual Mexican lagers with 34/70 soon. I usually use Omega Mexi lager or Wyeast 2007 and they make great Mexi lagers.

 

[wepeeler]

I could never get 34/70 to work for me up until the last few times I used it. Was able to get a 3rd place medal at SNERC this year with a German Pilsner. Brewing it again today!

I know people ferment it warm, but my best luck with 34/70 has been start at low temps and ramp up to finish.