What's the best leak tester?

[Maylar]

When checking for leaks in the CO2 delivery what's the best bubbling stuff to use? StarSan? Dish soap? Something else?

My tank went empty after just a few days, don't want a repeat of that.

 

[MidAtlanticBrew]

I use star san and it works great but rinse it off if you the material is subject to corrosion of degradation from the acid. I do use it on brass but I rinse it off with water. Co2 leaks suck... I drained a 20# tank about a year ago in two days...... I wasn't happy but my house plants seemed to grow a little faster

 

[IslandLizard]

You need to narrow it down by isolating the parts while testing for leaks.

Start with the tank and regulator and nothing connected. It should hold pressure for a few hours or longer after closing the tank valve.

Kegs by themselves, nothing connected, should hold pressure indefinitely, even when partially filled with beer or any other liquid.

Starsan, thick solution of dish soap, dunking in a tub with water. Keep your regulator dry though, don't dunk it.

 

[MaryB]

Brings up a question... if I turn my tank on with the distribution block valves all turned off to pressurize the system then turn the tank off how long should it hold pressure? No kegs connected, tank, regulator, 4 port distribution block is all that is in the system. Regulator is a dual tapco and I have the valve for one output turned off so all I am feeding in the distribution block. I lose half pressure on the high pressure guage in about 48 hours...

 

[bkboiler]

thick solution of dishsoap hands down. also works when ur hooking up natural gas pipe in your house!

 

[IslandLizard]

Brings up a question... if I turn my tank on with the distribution block valves all turned off to pressurize the system then turn the tank off how long should it hold pressure? No kegs connected, tank, regulator, 4 port distribution block is all that is in the system. Regulator is a dual tapco and I have the valve for one output turned off so all I am feeding in the distribution block. I lose half pressure on the high pressure guage in about 48 hours...

There's such a small amount of gas in that part of the system. A tiny, tiny leak will let half of that escape in 12 hours? Nothing to worry about!

I typically lose the pressure in the same setup over 24 hours.

Realize, the gas in the connector pipes and regulator bodies before the needle valve is at 800-2000 psi or something.

 

[Maylar]

thick solution of dishsoap hands down. also works when ur hooking up natural gas pipe in your house!

Thanks. I wasn't comfortable using StarSan because it's corrosive. What do you consider "thick"? Like 1/2 detergent and 1/2 water?

 

[jpitts38]

We use dawn/water at work to leak check. Very little soap is fine.

 

[MaryB]

Thanks! Been trying to find the leak and batting zero. No bubbles anywhere.

There's such a small amount of gas in that part of the system. A tiny, tiny leak will let half of that escape in 12 hours? Nothing to worry about!

I typically lose the pressure in the same setup over 24 hours.

Realize, the gas in the connector pipes and regulator bodies before the needle valve is at 800-2000 psi or something.

 

[Jayzon]

Dishsoap and water is my go-to. You don't need a lot of soap either, just enough so that you can easily make bubbles with your fingers and you're good.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks! Been trying to find the leak and batting zero. No bubbles anywhere.

Are you talking about that little bit of gas leaking out that's in the regulators and connection pipes of the high pressure assembly, or a larger leak elsewhere?

Ideally, those high pressure parts and regulator assemblies should hold pressure indefinitely, but they rarely do. Chances are that small amount of gas seepage is not visible as bubbles either, it's too minor. I suspect the regulators leaking a little, but like to hear a pro opinion on that. And you shouldn't dunk them under water.

<rant>
Our 6 year young heat pump apparently had (developed) a small leak, and with their sniffer they couldn't find it. So they injected a few ounces of dye ($80!) into the system. A few months later the UV light showed small yellow/green streaks on the heat exchange coil in the air handler (inside the home). It took that long to be visible, but yes, over a year or more it adds up. The coil was replaced under warranty, but we had to pick up all the labor charges at $100/hr + the cost of refrigerant at $60 a pound, which I gather is actually a "bargain." All together the cost of the expedition and fix must have far exceeded the factory's cost on said replacement coil. That coil was probably made in China, for <$400, but they'll sell it for $2k or so, if you're outside their "lifetime" 10 or 20 year warranty. It's a damn racket! Heat pump seems to be working fine since. </rant>

 

[MaryB]

Yes I pressurize the system, turn the tank off and have just the regulator and distribution block under pressure. All distribution block outputs are turned off and the second regulator output is also turned off so I am only dealing with 1 system at a time. It bleeds that down to zero in 48++ hours or so... So yes a very minor leak somewhere. I run dual regulator so I can have a 30psi carbonation line and serving pressure to the distribution block. All Oetiker clamps in the system put on with the proper crimp tool(30 years repairing electronics, use the right crimper for the job!)

 

[philly224]

I'm having such a hard time finding the leak in my system right now. Drained two 5lb tanks in a row in about a week each.