What should the washer look like?

[srqbrew]

Hi all, I am setting up my first kegerator and I'm confused about what kind of washer goes between the tank and the regulator.

I purchased a used 20 lb tank, swapped it out, and the new one came with a fiber washer that looks like this:

I tried connecting my regulator, which looks like this:

The nylon washer sits inside the regulator's hexagonal coupler, around a central post. I can't find a good image online, but I will take one tonight when I get home.

How I hooked it up:
I assembled the regulator by inserting the nylon ring washer around the post, and then the fiber washer between the post and the tank.

I still got some leaking after tightening the coupler, so I added plumber's tape around the tank threads. I have since learned that this is not what the tape is designed for, and probably was still leaking -- thus the empty tank.

Obviously, I need to do something different next time. Some folks mention a "nylon washer" in other threads. Is that what I already have? Should I add something different? If you could include a photo, it would help me avoid confusion!

 

[odie]

I've only seen a single nylon washer on mine. I'm thinking that fiber washer is the culprit

 

[Robert65]

The washers are specific to the regulator, not the tank. Use a washer supplied with your regulator or as an OEM replacement part.

 

[day_trippr]

Wrapping the tank threads is totally useless considering there's a big hole right through the middle of the coupler nut.

What I can't see in any of the pictures is a shot of the stem "nose". Some brands of couplers have an integrated O-ring in the nose that seals to the tank valve and as long as that O-ring is undamaged don't need a separate gasket.

I have numerous regulators that use standard removable gaskets and a couple that have integrated O-rings. I've used both fiber and nylon gaskets at one time or another on the former, both work fine.

Cheers!

 

[tellyho]

When using the fiber washer, you need to CRANK the nut tight to the tank the first time. You are deforming the fiber washer in that operation to conform to the ridges in the tank orifice and the regulator body.

I have used both fiber washer and nylon washer. Nylon is easier to set up, both work.

 

[day_trippr]

[...]The nylon washer sits inside the regulator's hexagonal coupler, around a central post. I can't find a good image online, but I will take one tonight when I get home.[...]

The way a CGA320 coupler works is strictly by sealing the face of the stem to the matching cavity inside the cylinder valve by virtue of squishing a gasket or O-ring. The threads contribute zero to sealing the connection save for the compression pressure effected on the gasket (or O-ring, if so equipped) between the mating metal surfaces.

So if that fibre (or nylon) gasket is behind the hex end shown in the pictures (ie: the stem has poked through the gasket) it is doing nothing to seal that connection...

Cheers!

 

[camonick]

This is what the nylon washer you’re asking about looks like...


Whether it’s needed or not depends on what the inside of your regulator stem looks like. Do you have a picture of your regulator stem and not a stock photo from the internet? There are few different styles of stems and their sealing options.

Mine uses the nylon one I’m holding, which is for the third stem above, and I’ve never had an issue with a leak.

 

[srqbrew]

Ok, here is what my actual equipment looks like. I think it's the same setup as yours, camonick?

If I'm following, I should try using just the regulator (with nylon ring washer), but without the fiber washer. Is that right?

 

[srqbrew]

 

[Robert65]

So,

a) you have a built in washer, do not use the fiber washer as it will just interfere with the one the manufacturer intends. And

b) never use thread tape on the tank. It can prevent you from tightening the nut all the way down, so the washer will not be able to do the job. The washer is the only seal intended or needed.

 

[camonick]

Ok, here is what my actual equipment looks like. I think it's the same setup as yours, camonick?
If I'm following, I should try using just the regulator (with nylon ring washer), but without the fiber washer. Is that right?

No, mine is different, but @Robert65 is correct that the fiber washer you have is unnecessary. The Teflon tape is also unnecessary and can be removed. Tighten the stem nut nice and snug (not Hercules tight) and I’ll bet you’ll be ok.

 

[srqbrew]

Alright, thanks for the explanations, all! I'll try this with no fiber washer and see how it goes.

 

[day_trippr]

So did the nylon washers come with the regulator?
Because the pic of the mounted washer shows the face of it that's supposed to seal against the cylinder valve is virtually flush with the stub end of the stem. It's not obvious the washer will actually seal before the brass bottoms out...

Cheers!

 

[srqbrew]

@day_trippr Yes the nylon washers came with the regulator. The nylon and brass are essentially flush, from what I can tell by feel.

 

[camonick]

Because the pic of the mounted washer shows the face of it that's supposed to seal against the cylinder valve is virtually flush with the stub end of the stem. It's not obvious the washer will actually seal before the brass bottoms out...

Cheers!

Without being able to test fit the connection myself, is it possible that the part of the stem the washer fits over would fit inside the opening of the tank valve without bottoming out first?

 

[day_trippr]

Yeah, that's part of the question. Can't really tell from the pics.

Bottom line, when I couple a tank I use a 12" long adjustable spanner and reef that puppy down. Give that a try and test the heck out of it with some bubble mix liberally applied both along the edges of the coupler nut and where the stem passes into that nut. If it doesn't leak with the cylinder valve opened and the reg at zero PSI you're good to go...

Cheers!

 

[srqbrew]

Ok, here's the update:

I attached the regulator with *just* the nylon washer, and I really yarded on it. As best I can tell from both soap solution and starsan solution, there is no leak at the coupler anymore.

I also tested every downstream connection on the gas side (regulator to gas quickconnect) in a glass of water, and I quickly identified a few other leaks that I could not see from soap last time!

I'm hoping that this solves my problem. I'll double check the kegs and liquid side, and then we'll see how long this tank lasts.

I'll update this thread in a few weeks.

 

[srqbrew]

P.s. one of the things I needed to do was tighten my MFL connections lightly with a wrench. Finger tight was not cutting it. Just wanted to share in case anyone else finds this useful.

 

[day_trippr]

Excellent! Hopefully you've got that thing tamed
Definitely any gas connection needs a wrench, whether cylinder couplers, gas line flare fittings, worm clamps, npt connections, whatever.
Save the fingers for poking at your phone

Cheers!