What is the point of cold crashing when bottling?

[Bostrows128]

I bottle all my brews and I have read several threads about cold crashing and bottling but I suppose I just don't understand the reasoning... I get that its a good idea to cold crash when kegging but what's the point of doing it when bottling? Keep in mind that I have only ever cold crashed once and to me, it just seemed like more hassle.

 

[SanPancho]

Ive never really bottled, but id guess youd just end up with less crap in your bottles.

 

[day_trippr]

There's a misconception that cold crashing removes all the yeast making bottle conditioning difficult...

Cheers!

 

[Bostrows128]

There's a misconception that cold crashing removes all the yeast making bottle conditioning difficult...

Cheers!

I know it won't remove all the yeast and you can still bottle but I don't understand the reasoning of cold crashing when bottling. The yeast will just reproduce in the bottles anyway making it cloudy...

 

[RPh_Guy]

I don't cold crash.

I think the oxygen exposure makes it more of a problem than a solution.

The beer will drop clear after you refrigerate it once carbonated.

 

[day_trippr]

We cold-crash to drop undesired material out of suspension so it doesn't end up in final packaging.
As you say, conditioning yeast will still cause sediments in the bottle, but if you don't cold-crash first there'll be even more sediment...

[edit]And there are methods to avoid O2 uptake during a cold-crash - which I definitely recommend. In fact I would recommend not doing a cold-crash at all without O2-uptake mitigation in place...

Cheers!

 

[homebrewer_99]

For me, cold crashing means the MORE CLEAN it goes into the bottle the MORE CLEAR the beer coming out.

 

[auburntsts]

Cold crashing is a method to clarify your beer by using temperature, gravity and time to clarify your beer. The cold temp helps promote yeast and other sediments to settle out of the beer prior to packaging regardless of whether you bottle or keg. Lots of folks, myself included, combine cold crashing with a fining agent (I use gelatin) to get very clear beer. Oh and I bottle.

 

[Bostrows128]

Also because I don't want to make another thread I'm getting into all grain brewing and I was offered a five-gallon mash tun. Does anyone know the average amount of grain I can fit in there without problems? It's probably one of those ones from northern brewer. I read the threads but all it talked about where beer styles, not size.

 

[day_trippr]

Check out the "Can I Mash It" calculator at this url
You can play with grain weight vs mash thickness and see if the resulting mash can fit...

Cheers!

 

[homebrewer_99]

Also because I don't want to make another thread I'm getting into all grain brewing and I was offered a five-gallon mash tun. Does anyone know the average amount of grain I can fit in there without problems? It's probably one of those ones from northern brewer. I read the threads but all it talked about where beer styles, not size.

I don't recall where I got it, but here you go:

 

[Bostrows128]

I don't recall where I got it, but here you go:

View attachment 596675

So is 1.25qt/lb what most brewers use?

 

[day_trippr]

Yeah, that's fairly standard...

Cheers!

 

[homebrewer_99]

So is 1.25qt/lb what most brewers use?

Yes, no, and sort of...??? LOL!

I've been using this (below) ever since I started all grain brewing (almost 15 years ago...been brewing for over 24 years). Some people will argue against it and toss in some scientific mumbo-jumbo only to end up saying it's all wrong.

But, I can attest that IT WORKS EVERY TIME.

THIN MASH:

2 QTS WATER TO 1 LB GRAIN
SLOWER CONVERSION TAKES MORE TIME
MORE FERMENTABLE SUGARS
PRODUCES A DRIER BEER

THICK MASH:

LESS THAN 1.25 QTS TO 1 LB GRAIN
FASTER CONVERSION
FEWER FERMENTABLE SUGARS
PRODUCES A MALTIER BEER

LOW MASH TEMP: 140 – 150F, FOR A LIGHT BODY
HIGH MASH TEMP: 150 – 160F, FOR A MALTY BODY
(OVERALL OPTIMUM TEMP: 149)


I make both light bodied and full bodied beers in a 7 gal Rubbermaid cooler (mash tun). I brew by using Temperature Step Infusion. I've started as low as 3 gals for 7# grain and as high as 4 gals for 11# for a partial rest before topping it off full for the longer part of the steep for conversion. Then I Batch Sparge with the volume that is missing from my brew pot for my desired pre-boil volume (my pot has volume markers that I put in with a center punch and hammer).

 

[Bostrows128]

Yes, no, and sort of...??? LOL!

I've been using this (below) ever since I started all grain brewing (almost 15 years ago...been brewing for over 24 years). Some people will argue against it and toss in some scientific mumbo-jumbo only to end up saying it's all wrong.

But, I can attest that IT WORKS EVERY TIME.

THIN MASH:

2 QTS WATER TO 1 LB GRAIN
SLOWER CONVERSION TAKES MORE TIME
MORE FERMENTABLE SUGARS
PRODUCES A DRIER BEER

THICK MASH:

LESS THAN 1.25 QTS TO 1 LB GRAIN
FASTER CONVERSION
FEWER FERMENTABLE SUGARS
PRODUCES A MALTIER BEER

LOW MASH TEMP: 140 – 150F, FOR A LIGHT BODY
HIGH MASH TEMP: 150 – 160F, FOR A MALTY BODY
(OVERALL OPTIMUM TEMP: 149)


I make both light bodied and full bodied beers in a 7 gal Rubbermaid cooler (mash tun). I brew by using Temperature Step Infusion. I've started as low as 3 gals for 7# grain and as high as 4 gals for 11# for a partial rest before topping it off full for the longer part of the steep for conversion. Then I Batch Sparge with the volume that is missing from my brew pot for my desired pre-boil volume (my pot has volume markers that I put in with a center punch and hammer).

Definitely, some good knowledge to know! Will keep in in mind...

 

[day_trippr]

That is what I would term "coping with process" and really isn't indicative of any mash thickness convention.
Obviously doing step mashes without an external heat source means having to start thick to conserve tun space for successive heat-raising infusions...

Cheers!

 

[homebrewer_99]

That is what I would term "coping with process" and really isn't indicative of any mash thickness convention.
Obviously doing step mashes without an external heat source means having to start thick to conserve tun space for successive heat-raising infusions...

Cheers!

I agree, it's all about learning what works for your equipment.

And I make good beer too.

 

[Amy Kemp]

We cold-crash to drop undesired material out of suspension so it doesn't end up in final packaging.
As you say, conditioning yeast will still cause sediments in the bottle, but if you don't cold-crash first there'll be even more sediment...

[edit]And there are methods to avoid O2 uptake during a cold-crash - which I definitely recommend. In fact I would recommend not doing a cold-crash at all without O2-uptake mitigation in place...

Cheers!

Can you elaborate on O2-uptake mitigation?

 

[Bostrows128]

Can you elaborate on O2-uptake mitigation?

Something like this should work...

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/CO2-Carbon-Dioxide-Harvester-Kit.html

 

[balrog]

various balloon/vessel/capture systems in place over the fermentation, to be used when cold crashing causes headspace gas volume contraction, thereby sucking captured CO2 instead of air

 

[RPh_Guy]

Anyone used this?
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CCguardianV2

 

[Smellyglove]

I'd rather just let it sit for a while in the FV than coldcrashing for bottling. When you coldcrash you don't have very active yeast to scavenge the oxygen in the bottle. CC for keg = yes if you feel like it, CC for bottle = no in my eyes.

 

[Amy Kemp]

Something like this should work...

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/CO2-Carbon-Dioxide-Harvester-Kit.html

Awesome. Funny how those gas laws are relative in brewing. (I use them in the medical field). I’m sure I can DIY this, have plenty of mason jars and I’m sure I can find some fittings around.

 

[homebrewer_99]

Do the big guys cold crash and filter before bottling? IMO, filtering and cold crashing pretty much serve the same purpose...to clean the beer before bottling.

 

[Smellyglove]

Do the big guys cold crash and filter before bottling? IMO, filtering and cold crashing pretty much serve the same purpose...to clean the beer before bottling.

But to a different extent. CC will still leave you yeast. Filtering does not, or some, depending on the filter, or centrifuge.

 

[homebrewer_99]

But to a different extent. CC will still leave you yeast. Filtering does not, or some, depending on the filter, or centrifuge.

I think the difference here is 99% of homebrewer's make (and drink) live beer.

If you filter then keep at it. For those of us that don't want to go through the hassle of filtering we still serve clear beer.

I do own a filter set up. The instructions also say to chill/cold crash the beer before filtering. I've used it a number of times, but I just don't like to use it.

In #22, you said you don't CC for bottling because you don't have active yeast. When you add priming sugar to the bottle it becomes active again after it warms up to room temperature. Another work around for that is to use fresh yeast or wash it from that batch and make a small starter.

SOME yeast is needed for bottle conditioning. I even cold crash Hefe Weizens. When it's clear during racking I will suck up a VERY small amount of yeast, just enough to put a haze back in the beer again (use fresh yeast or make a small starter from washed yeast, as previously mentioned). When I pour them the yeast makes the beer cloudy again. You get the same effect if you use Speise for bottle conditioning.

All means to the same ends...good beer.

 

[Bobby_M]

Anyone used this?
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CCguardianV2

Obviously it's my product but I've been using it on every batch for months and yes it works.

 

[Smellyglove]

I think the difference here is 99% of homebrewer's make (and drink) live beer.

If you filter then keep at it. For those of us that don't want to go through the hassle of filtering we still serve clear beer.

I do own a filter set up. The instructions also say to chill/cold crash the beer before filtering. I've used it a number of times, but I just don't like to use it.

In #22, you said you don't CC for bottling because you don't have active yeast. When you add priming sugar to the bottle it becomes active again after it warms up to room temperature. Another work around for that is to use fresh yeast or wash it from that batch and make a small starter.

SOME yeast is needed for bottle conditioning. I even cold crash Hefe Weizens. When it's clear during racking I will suck up a VERY small amount of yeast, just enough to put a haze back in the beer again (use fresh yeast or make a small starter from washed yeast, as previously mentioned). When I pour them the yeast makes the beer cloudy again. You get the same effect if you use Speise for bottle conditioning.

All means to the same ends...good beer.

Yes, it does become active again when you warm it up, and give it some sugar. But it doesn't start to work at once, which would be a good thing to avoid oxidation. I've tasted more oxidized homebrewed beers which were coldcrashed than not coldcrashed. I think there's a link there.

 

[homebrewer_99]

Yes, it does become active again when you warm it up, and give it some sugar. But it doesn't start to work at once, which would be a good thing to avoid oxidation. I've tasted more oxidized homebrewed beers which were coldcrashed than not coldcrashed. I think there's a link there.

Only for you big guy...

 

[Smellyglove]

Only for you big guy...

Huh. What a constructive answer. So what I' reading from your answer is that cold beer + oxygen without yeast to scavenge it is nothing to worry about.

 

[Todd_Sails]

I've never filtered, OR 'cold - crashed any batch I've ever brewed- ever. I know just about everyone reading this is cringing and/or puking about now.
Every batch I've made comes out well. Looks clear enough, etc. HOw clear do you need it to be? It's beer!
I"ve never made anyone sick, and I've been told many times that I should 'sell this stuff'- NOT going to happen. I do like to give it away when drinking with friends, sports enthusiasts, etc.

I need that Meme right now with the guy sitting at the table, and the sign on the table says something you put in, and then says, - change my mind.

For me, Cold crashing is not necessary.
Change my mind ;-)

 

[RPh_Guy]

Obviously it's my product but I've been using it on every batch for months and yes it works.

It does look like a good product. Very cool!

If I may make a suggestion ... I would put a one-way valve (check valve) on it instead of the tube going into sanitizer. That'd be much easier to handle.

The thing's going to get wrecked if there's krausen blow-off either way.

 

[Punx Clever]

Obviously it's my product but I've been using it on every batch for months and yes it works.

I've used mine for one batch, seems to work pretty good. With 11 gallons in a 14 gallon fermenter, I've got plenty of headspace to prevent filling it up with blowoff. Still, the bag is easy enough to clean/sanitize if that were to happen.

 

[Bobby_M]

It does look like a good product. Very cool!

If I may make a suggestion ... I would put a one-way valve (check valve) on it instead of the tube going into sanitizer. That'd be much easier to handle.

The thing's going to get wrecked if there's krausen blow-off either way.

I've had blow off and I would not want it running down inside my fridge. Some got in the bag too but it still did what it's meant to do.