What I have learned regarding the process of making a NEIPA.

[mlafnitzegger]

I have been brewing NEIPAs for about 2 and a half years now. I have brewed this style now over 50 times and have tweeked the process with posts on this site as well as researching the internet and just the experience of making a NEIPA. I am not an expert. I am always trying new process additions when they interest me. Anyways here's my list of tidbits. Hopefully will help someone.

Actually #1 should be SANITIZE but...

#1 Water (Liquor for you snobs )
I tried to use my tap water. I had 3 water reports done; one in Feb, one in June, one Sept. My town adds different treatments to the water supply to control algae. They were slight differences. I could never get it quite right. Then I started using RO water. That probably helped the most in brewing NEIPAs.
PH; Another important part of my process. It does help with mouthfeel and bitterness in final product. Get a PH Meter.

#2 Hops
I have tried soooo many different schedules. Currently my schedule is like this;
NO Boil Hops (it was just too bitter and was taking away from the hop flavor I wanted).
Flameout hops. I usually use 2 to 4oz. I also make sure my muslin bag is fully saturated with wort. Cool down quickly to 160f. Less then 5 minutes.
Whirlpool hops. I will use between 3 and 8oz depending on how crazy I feel. Let that whirlpool for 20 to 45 minutes depending on your taste. I have not tasted a difference when using a longer whirlpool but I do get side tracked sometimes and will let it go as long as 45 minutes. Make sure to monitor temp and keep it at the temp you target plus or minus 5f degrees.
I remove my hops when my whirlpool is complete. I then let the wort rest for 5 to 10 minutes. You may need to apply heat during this rest if the temp gets too low before transferring to fermentor.
Dryhop #1; Ferment in a temp controlled area which I set at 64f with a temp probe in the fermentor. I add 2 to 6oz day 2 or 3 depending on how active the fermentation is. If it is a slow start I add day 3 if a fast or normal start I add day 2.
Dryhop #2; I add 2 to 8oz and then raise fermentation chamber to 70f. I usually do this with 3 days remaining. 2 days at 70f and then cold crash for 1 day before kegging.

Schedule: example
Flame Out 3oz and cool wort to whirlpool temp
Whirlpool 6oz for 25 minutes at 160f making sure temp stays within 5f of target
Dryhop #1 3oz day 2 64f (I do not take gravity readings, I wild like that - just let it ride)
Dryhop #2 4oz day 5 and raise temp to 70f

#3 Temperature Control
You need it for NEIPAs. Otherwise you an IPA that resembles a West Coast style. Don't get me wrong, I like ALL IPAs. I just added a temp probe and it made a big difference in mouthfeel.

#4 Oxygen
This is an area I am working on now. I do not fermentate under pressure yet but that is my next "tweek". I do transfer in a closed system from my fermentor to my keg. And I know, without controlling the exposure to O2 during fermentation you might have more then you want.That is why I might be adding a spunding valve to my fermentation setup.

#5 Carbonation and Serving Temp
I was a little surprised by this. When I lowered my carbonation the mouthfeel and silkiness dramatically increased and the hops stood out. And then when I raised the serving temp from 40f to 44f I got another bump in the three. Of course having a lower level of carbonation was odd to me at first as I have always been around 2.6vol (13psi at 38f). Lately I have been going with 2.2vol (8psi at 38f).
For serving temp I set at 42f with 10psi (for now...)

#6 Grainbill
Grainbill doesn't matter (to me). It definitely matters to a lot of people though. I have been using Trillium Brewing grainbills which are listed for each beer they brew on their website. I have been going a little sweeter lately (not too much) which seems to help the mouthfeel and silkiness.

#7 Yeast
Wyeast 1318
Omega DIPA
White Labs WLP007 or WLP008

Enough said for now...

 

[mlafnitzegger]

Latest recipe:
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 8.53 gal
Post Boil Volume: 7.03 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 6.00 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 5.3 SRM
Estimated IBU: 30.9 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 81.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
14.00 gal NEIPA RO Water Water 1 -
17.00 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2 -
7.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 3 -
1.40 g Salt (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 4 -
0.50 ml Lactic Acid (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 5 -
7 lbs Golden Promise (Simpsons) (2.0 SRM) Grain 5 46.4 %
5 lbs 6.4 oz Pilsen (3.0 SRM) Grain 6 35.8 %
1 lbs 1.3 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 7 7.2 %
8.6 oz Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 8 3.6 %
8.6 oz Wheat Malt, Pale (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) Grain 9 3.6 %
4.3 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 10 1.8 %
4.3 oz Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 11 1.8 %
2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 30.0 Hop 14 8.9 IBUs
2.00 oz Denali [14.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 30.0 Hop 15 10.4 IBUs
2.00 oz Vic Secret [15.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 16 11.5 IBUs
0.50 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 17 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Denali [14.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz Vic Secret [15.50 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg DIPA Ale (Omega #OYL-052) Yeast 20 -
3.00 oz Denali [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 11.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 11.0 Days Hop 22 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Vic Secret [15.50 %] - Dry Hop 11.0 Days Hop 23 0.0 IBUs
3.00 oz Denali [14.00 %] - Dry Hop 2.0 Days Hop 24 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 2.0 Days Hop 25 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz Vic Secret [15.50 %] - Dry Hop 2.0 Days Hop 26 0.0 IBUs

 

[philly224]

What's the reason you ferment at 64 instead of a little higher? Just curious what that gets you.

 

[Bigfly]

Last 2 batches I used cryohops in whirlpool. I add my first dry hops within a day of pitching for 2 days. After 5-7 days i transfer into a keg with 2 oz of corn sugar and another dose of dry hops for 5 days. I have been adding wheat and smoked malt usually about 8% each to 4 of the 6 batches I made. The last batch I added 2 lbs of smoked wheat. Nice creamy head subtle smoke flavor.

 

[nDub]

Wow great write up.

I like the idea of no bittering hops. I've been decreasing my amount but I've been nervous to cut them completely.

I'm going for it on my next brew day and I'll just add those hops to flame out addition.

 

[mlafnitzegger]

What's the reason you ferment at 64 instead of a little higher? Just curious what that gets you.

No real great reason. I think at higher temps you get a more estery taste which I don't like. I do know that 65f is the stated low end range for the yeasts I listed but it hasn't caused me any problems with fermentation.

 

[mlafnitzegger]

Wow great write up.

I like the idea of no bittering hops. I've been decreasing my amount but I've been nervous to cut them completely.

I'm going for it on my next brew day and I'll just add those hops to flame out addition.

I hear you there. I was very apprehensive about having no bittering hops. After all the reading and brewing I found that even leaving out the boil hops there was plenty of bitterness. I tried having the flame out hops sit longer at first (basically letting wort cool without chiller) but it still was not what I was looking for and too bitter which hurt the silkiness and mouthfeel.

 

[philly224]

No real great reason. I think at higher temps you get a more estery taste which I don't like. I do know that 65f is the stated low end range for the yeasts I listed but it hasn't caused me any problems with fermentation.

Thanks! Great post by the way! Definitely plan on referencing it next time I brew a NEIPA.

 

[Javaslinger]

Can you elaborate on your fermentation temps and processes?

 

[mlafnitzegger]

Can you elaborate on your fermentation temps and processes?

Sure. After draining BK into Fermonster fermentor (after cooling usually around 72f) I let sit at room temp for an hour or so. I try to get wort temp a little higher than the yeast starter temp. Once the wort in fermentor settles a bit I verify that I am at my correct volume in the fermentor (I usually have extra wort. I take original gravity reading from a sample. Any extra wort I have been using for culturing yeast),oxygenate wort, and pitch yeast. The temp at this point is usually around 70f. I place temp probe in wort through a thermowell I added to the Fermonster lid and place in a fementor chamber set at 65f. After 48hrs I open and add hop pellets directly to wort (no bag or canister). I do not take any readings. I want the wort to be active with yeast when I add first dry hop. If fermentation is slow I add after 36hrs. I now set the temp controller on fermentor chamber to 68f and wait 2 days. I raise temp to 70f and add remaining hop pellets. After 2 more days I remove from chamber, stir wort (gently), and place in fridge to cold crash at 36f for a day. I take my final gravity reading when kegging. Usually between 1.012 and 1.014. Starting gravity is usually between 1.058 and 1.066 depending on grain bill.

 

[TravelingLight]

Totally agree with you on water. Actually, when I started brewing NEIPAs that's what forced me to get my water tested and start doing adjustments. Made the biggest difference in my NEIPAs.

The second biggest improvement to my NEIPAs was when I started fermenting in kegs and doing closed transfers. As you well know I'm sure, I swear NEIPAs are more susceptible to oxidation than virtually anything out there. The way I ferment them now, from the time I pitch yeast, oxygen doesn't touch it until it's pouring out the tap.

Also, another big improvement came when I bumped up my oats. I started getting the color and haze I wanted, but it was clearing up way too fast in the keg. Once I started using flaked oats at 20%, I started getting more perma haze. My "house" grain bill for NEIPAs is dead ass simple (usually ~70% pale/base, 20% flaked oats, 10% wheat) but I think the 20% oats plays a huge part.

Also, good call on recommending WLP008. I thought me and a buddy were the only people using 008 in NEIPAs. I've tried 4 or 5 different yeasts in my NEIPAs (including the famous 1318) and 008 is far and away my favorite for this style.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I've been doing zero early boil hops for quite some time. I do have a 5 minute addition and a FO addition to go along with a fairly large WP addition.

I did RO water from my very first AG batch (a NEIPA). The first batch, somebody else calculated the water additions, I've done my own ever since. I use Bru'n water to calculate mash pH which has worked very well. I target 150ppm chloride and about 70 ppm sulfate. Every single one of my NEIPAs has been juicy, aromatic and, in general, tasty as hell with great mouthfeel.

One difference for me: I dropped the flaked oats and switched to golden naked oats. I get better head retention and the flavor/aroma are as good or better than before. I don't worry about the haze, if the beer tastes and smells good, who cares about the haze. That being said, I've never had one clear up on me...even after 8 weeks. If it did, but still was the same great beer, I wouldn't care. Haze is a side effect of the process, not the goal. Too many people get worked up about the haze.

I've used exclusively 1318 so far because I like it so much and I have the schedule down to a 'T', but I'm having to try other things as the LHBS seems to be perpetually out of it. I'd like to find a dry yeast that works as well simply for the ease of acquisition. The batch I'm cold crashing now is 1028 because it was all I could get. My last three trips to the LHBS I've come up empty on 1318...I think because that's what everyone wants.

I'll be taking a break from NEIPAs for a month or so as my next beer is a huge stout and the one after that will be my first attempt at a plisner.

 

[TravelingLight]

I've been doing zero early boil hops for quite some time. I do have a 5 minute addition and a FO addition to go along with a fairly large WP addition.

I did RO water from my very first AG batch (a NEIPA). The first batch, somebody else calculated the water additions, I've done my own ever since. I use Bru'n water to calculate mash pH which has worked very well. I target 150ppm chloride and about 70 ppm sulfate. Every single one of my NEIPAs has been juicy, aromatic and, in general, tasty as hell with great mouthfeel.

One difference for me: I dropped the flaked oats and switched to golden naked oats. I get better head retention and the flavor/aroma are as good or better than before. I don't worry about the haze, if the beer tastes and smells good, who cares about the haze. That being said, I've never had one clear up on me...even after 8 weeks. If it did, but still was the same great beer, I wouldn't care. Haze is a side effect of the process, not the goal. Too many people get worked up about the haze.

I've used exclusively 1318 so far because I like it so much and I have the schedule down to a 'T', but I'm having to try other things as the LHBS seems to be perpetually out of it. I'd like to find a dry yeast that works as well simply for the ease of acquisition. The batch I'm cold crashing now is 1028 because it was all I could get. My last three trips to the LHBS I've come up empty on 1318...I think because that's what everyone wants.

I'll be taking a break from NEIPAs for a month or so as my next beer is a huge stout and the one after that will be my first attempt at a plisner.

Do you overbuild and harvest off starters? I started doing that a year or so back and it's a huge help for those yeasts you can't always get your hands on. Now I overbuild all my starters and keep a solid yeast bank in the keezer.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Do you overbuild and harvest off starters? I started doing that a year or so back and it's a huge help for those yeasts you can't always get your hands on. Now I overbuild all my starters and keep a solid yeast bank in the keezer.

Funny you should ask. I picked up sterile bottles and a tray to store them in, but have been unable to pick up the 1318 since. I like 1450 for stouts and haven't been able to get that either. I'm going to wait until I have a forcast above freezing and order them I think.

 

[bassmang4]

Hwk-I_St8 - What % of GNO are you using?

 

[mlafnitzegger]

I've been doing zero early boil hops for quite some time. I do have a 5 minute addition and a FO addition to go along with a fairly large WP addition.

I did RO water from my very first AG batch (a NEIPA). The first batch, somebody else calculated the water additions, I've done my own ever since. I use Bru'n water to calculate mash pH which has worked very well. I target 150ppm chloride and about 70 ppm sulfate. Every single one of my NEIPAs has been juicy, aromatic and, in general, tasty as hell with great mouthfeel.

One difference for me: I dropped the flaked oats and switched to golden naked oats. I get better head retention and the flavor/aroma are as good or better than before. I don't worry about the haze, if the beer tastes and smells good, who cares about the haze. That being said, I've never had one clear up on me...even after 8 weeks. If it did, but still was the same great beer, I wouldn't care. Haze is a side effect of the process, not the goal. Too many people get worked up about the haze.

I've used exclusively 1318 so far because I like it so much and I have the schedule down to a 'T', but I'm having to try other things as the LHBS seems to be perpetually out of it. I'd like to find a dry yeast that works as well simply for the ease of acquisition. The batch I'm cold crashing now is 1028 because it was all I could get. My last three trips to the LHBS I've come up empty on 1318...I think because that's what everyone wants.

I'll be taking a break from NEIPAs for a month or so as my next beer is a huge stout and the one after that will be my first attempt at a plisner.

Here is a great thread on dry yeast for NEIPAs. Very addictive read even though understanding it is challenging.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ouse-how-to-identify-and-characterize.623221/

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Hwk-I_St8 - What % of GNO are you using?

10%