What are my options for going electric?

[aprichman]

I'm in an apartment and fairly ignorant about electrical stuff so please bare with me. I am looking to do a single vessel eBIAB and put an element in via 1.5" triclamp. I would like to be able to do 5 gallon batches but realistically 3-4 gallon batches would be suitable for me. Here is what I'm working with as far as my electrical system.

Looking to run off the kitchen circuit - is this one 20 amp circuit or two? I was hoping to run a 2000W element but if my fridge is on the same circuit could this cause problems?

As far as controller boxes go, what is the cheapest way to go? Is this something that is easy to put together?

Finally, is my outlet going to be okay? I have heard people refer to GCFI outlets that have a sideways plug - will I need a converter of some sort?

 

[beerwiffle]

What is that 30A breaker for? My guess is a stove or a dryer. If you could use that then your options are almost limitless for what you're looking to do.

 

[guindilla]

If you have a 30A breaker you should be ok. 2000W/120V~16.5A, far below the limit of 30A.

The fridge will not be a problem, it's not a heavy consumer of current, and you are still well within limits.

In my case I run 3000W at 240V with a 16A circuit w/o trouble, and I have two fridges at home, among other utilities.

Cheers.

 

[TexasWine]

I'm in an apartment and fairly ignorant about electrical stuff so please bare with me. I am looking to do a single vessel eBIAB and put an element in via 1.5" triclamp. I would like to be able to do 5 gallon batches but realistically 3-4 gallon batches would be suitable for me. Here is what I'm working with as far as my electrical system.

Looking to run off the kitchen circuit - is this one 20 amp circuit or two? I was hoping to run a 2000W element but if my fridge is on the same circuit could this cause problems?

As far as controller boxes go, what is the cheapest way to go? Is this something that is easy to put together?

Finally, is my outlet going to be okay? I have heard people refer to GCFI outlets that have a sideways plug - will I need a converter of some sort?

If it were me, and I was set on making 5 gallon batches, I'd run 2 x 1500 watt elements just to keep it simple. Looks like you've got enough circuits in the apartment to do this. One 2000 watt element would work, but 3000 watts is better

Other benefits of going this route, no electrical mods needed in the apartment and generally the parts needed for the build are cheaper, especially when you start pricing out wire and GFCI protection.

Cheapest controller out there for a 15 amp set up is probably this one.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/ranco-digital-temperature-controller-wired.html

The necessity of a PID type controller in this type of system, and the need to control temps to within 1/10th of a degree, is debatable (disclaimer, I have a PID controller).

But if I were assembling an entire system from scratch, pump, fittings and all, I'd go this route.

http://brausupply.com/collections/b...120v-5-gallon-brew-boss-automated-brew-system

$565, and it comes with everything (11 gallon kettle, 2x1500, pump, hoses, fittings, bag, all of it). You'll be hard pressed to put a system like this together yourself for much cheaper than this.

My 2 pesos. Hope it helps.

 

[guindilla]

Apologies, I did not see the 20A limit!

Actually, I totally agree with TexasWine. It is funny how close the system he suggests matches mine. In my case I've got two resistances that I connect to different circuits within my home.

As he mentions, 3000W would be good enough for 5 gallons, you could go up to 3500W-4000W if you are impatient (2000W+1500W/2000W). In my case with 5500W I'm able to heat ~55 liters (~14.5 gallons) of water to mash temperature in around 45 minutes, and in roughly the same time push it to boil.

Re. PID I also finished one recently, but I must admit that good insulation will likely reduce the need for any temperature control system, and you will not lose more than 2-3F if you do it well. One of those camping or yoga mats, with one side "aluminum-like" would likely do the trick.

Cheers.

 

[aprichman]

The 30 amp circuit goes to a drier with a plug like this.

 

[beerwiffle]

All you would need is to have your Spa Panel (GFCI) with a plug like that and you are set.

The real questions are what your budget is and how hands on you want to be. I modified one of PJ's diagrams for a Single Element 30A BIAB with a digital SSR instead of a PID since I mash in a cooler. On brewday, I unplug my stove and plug in the GFCI and control panel. Easy Peasy.

Here is the schematic I followed for the most part:

You will save a ton of time by going with the 30A outlet, and have room to grow if you choose to upsize your batches.

 

[TexasWine]

You will save a ton of time by going with the 30A outlet, and have room to grow if you choose to upsize your batches.

Meh, a ton of time is debatable. Maybe on a 10 gallon batch you'd save some time. I find two 1500 watt elements to be plenty fast at over 3F rise per minute with 7 gallons.

 

[dmcman73]

Meh, a ton of time is debatable. Maybe on a 10 gallon batch you'd save some time. I find two 1500 watt elements to be plenty fast at over 3F rise per minute with 7 gallons.

It doesn't look like he has a lot of dedicated circuits in his apartment panel, chances are that the one breaker labeled "Kitchen Circuit" is for all the outlets in his apartment kitchen. If that's the case, he'll need to run extension cords all over the place to other outlets in other rooms and hooking up heating elements to long extension cords which is a no-no (fire hazard).

Unless he has two outlets in the same room where each outlet is on a a separate circuit so he can plug a heating element into each one, then his only option is to use that Dryer outlet safely.

 

[dmcman73]

The 30 amp circuit goes to a drier with a plug like this.

the dryer cord you have has two hot leads and a neutral, you need a ground wire for safety as you're dealing with liquid and electricity. If the dryer is near a washing machine you may be able to connect a solid copper ground wire to the cold water line as a ground. Or, check inside the outlet box, you might get lucky and there is a ground wire in there either tapped to the side of the box or just sitting in there.