Wanting to try BIAB

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user 337266

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Let me start by saying I am completely new to the hobby. Ive only made 1 extract brew so far and its still carbonating. Im wanting to start another one but do BIAB and kind of confused if I have the equipment to do it and/or what do I need to get from amazon or anywhere else. First thing I know I need is a bag but not sure where to get one and how big based on my kettle and if my kettle is large enough. Im using a turkey fryer right now that is 30qts converts to 7.5 gallons. Making 5 gallon batch. Thanks
 
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Some will say you need a kettle up to 3x batch size. My kettle is 1.25x, not that I'd recommend it. If you're already doing a full volume boil, it's the mash volume that will be your bottleneck. Moving ~40% of your water to a room temp dunk sparge in a bucket will reduce your mash volume and increase your efficiency as bonus.

Wilserbag and Brewbag are the market leaders. I use a Wilserbag and am 100% happy. You place an order on Wilserbrewer's site and follow up by email with your kettle dimensions. He'll probably ship your appropriately sized bag the next day.
 
I can also recommend the Wilser bags. A plus is that he is an HBT sponsor.

The bag should be just big enough to put your pot inside of it, and about 4 inches taller than the pot (with the pot inside it.)

7.5 gal will be a little too small to do full volume mash on anything but small (low OG) beers. But as @DBhomebrew said, a room temp dunk sparge in a bucket will get the boil volume you need.

Brew on :mug:
 
My El Cheapo basic garage setup for full volume BIAB, for average ABV 5 gallon batches:
20230328_193856.jpg


L to R: propane tank, Bayou Classic banjo burner (Craigslist, wrapped against drafts), Bayou Classic 11 gallon boil pot with basket (Craigslist), Wilser BIAB (HBT discount, robust as hell), rachet rope for pulling the basket with bag inside it (Lowe's), Reflectix pot wrapping for mashing (Lowe's - wraps fairly thin stainless steel kettle, and keeps mash temp drop to about 3 degrees over 60 to 90 minutes).

Cheap AF but makes good beer IMHO.
 
I started with BIAB from the get-go and happy I did. I think the easiest thing to do is going to be to keep your current kettle and do a 3-gallon batch. No trouble at all having a little extra space in your fermenter.

So really, for your next batch or three all you need is a bag. I’d probably pick up one that’s in stock and ready to go; if your local store doesn’t have one (or you don’t have a local store) try here.

If you like BIAB (and why wouldn’t you?) and want to go back to 5-gallon batches, you can get a 10-15-gallon pot, start worrying about hoists, and maybe get a custom bag.

The only additional thing you have to watch out for with BIAB is your water. If your water is hard — as in, it crusts over in your sinks and pans and appliances, and your dishwasher doesn’t work right — then for those first few batches use store-bought water. Otherwise you can put off worrying about water until you’re a few batches in.
 
If you search “BIAB beer bag” on Amazon, there are all sorts of likely looking products that’ll cost next to nothing and arrive in a day or two. So you could do that, and then move to the Wilser a few batches in.
 
Making the assumption (bad idea I know) that you have a 5 gallon (20 qt) kettle that you have used to make an extract batch you only need a 5 gallon paint strainer bag to use in it to make a 2 1/2 gallon batch. That can quickly tell you if you like the process of all grain brewing or if you will want to go back to extract. Minimal investment to find out. My local big box lumber store sells a 2 package of 5 gallon paint strainer bags for $2.50. Hardly a major investment even if you only use one for a single batch and throw both away when done.
 
I biab with a cheap set up as well.
Just give it a try and you'll find out quick enough if you like it or not.
Just one thing: Like @AlexKay , I recommend doing a 3 gallon batch (or 2.5 gallon) . If you go for too high a volume, it's quite heavy to lift the bag.
If you find it easy you can always increase for your next brew :)
 
One extract batch and already going BIAB? See you in the 'Sick of bottling. I want to start kegging. What do I need' thread next week!

If you're already doing extract, BIAB isn't a big step. The only thing extra you need is a bag and some crushed grains. I also started with a paint strainer bag before going with a Wilser bag.

Paint strainer bags
Wilser bags

Love the name, BTW. "EmilioooooOOOOooooo!"
 
if you are committed to BIAB, you should go 3X on the kettle and a bag to match. You can go smaller but you will be limited or tight when you get into high OG beers.

Buy once and be done with it.

A 15 gal kettle costs marginally more than a 10 gal kettle. Wilser will probably be zero difference on price on making you a custom bag to fit whatever kettle you get.

15 gal kettle will not be overkill on a 5 gal batch. and all my stuff stores inside that kettle too. And the space a 15 takes up is only slightly more than a 10.
 
One extract batch and already going BIAB? See you in the 'Sick of bottling. I want to start kegging. What do I need' thread next week!

If you're already doing extract, BIAB isn't a big step. The only thing extra you need is a bag and some crushed grains. I also started with a paint strainer bag before going with a Wilser bag.

Paint strainer bags
Wilser bags

Love the name, BTW. "EmilioooooOOOOooooo!"
I laughed, but its true.....
 
The other thing to consider when thinking about going BIAB, are you able to get your grain crushed pretty fine? The standard crush at most homebrew supply stores can be a bit coarse if you are using BIAB. If you're just starting out, I would not recommend buying your own grain mill just yet, until you're sure this is something you want to continue with. Look for local homebrew supply stores in your area and compare their grain prices, and ask if they will mill it fine for you.
 
what about just mashing longer if he can't get his LHBS for crush fine?
 
what about just mashing longer if he can't get his LHBS for crush fine?
That's a viable option. You can tell when your mash is done by monitoring the SG of the wort during the mash (wort must be fully homogenized, by aggressive stirring or recirculation, before taking an SG sample.) The method is described here. When your mash SG reaches the maximum possible (or close enough to the max to satisfy you) the mash is done. The mash SG monitoring is best done with a refractometer.

Brew on :mug:
 
You don't even need to do full-volume for BIAB. Look up the Palmer method. When I did BIAB, I used 1.25 quarts of water for each pound of grain (if i remember correctly!). You might need a little more water depending on mash thickness. Mash with that, then put the bag in a strainer over the pot/kettle and sparge over it. Boil, then top off with water to get to your final volume and OG.
 
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