Versatile British Yeast Recommendations

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RBK

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After a recent ester nightmare/from the fermentation temp creeping up using Safale-04 in a brown ale - I'm looking for recommendations for English yeasts, with a bit of a that British fruity/ester character... but that aren't quite as temperamental/temperature sensitive as Saf-04...

Basically I'm looking for alternative options to the clean American Saf-05/wyeast 1056 that I do most of my brewing with.

Style wise... I'm looking for yeasts that can do a bit of a range of styles... that I can get familiar with...

I suppose I'm interested interested in the potential use of said yeast/s in Bitters/ESBs... IPAs of various stripes... & Brown Ales, Red IPAs etc... & also Stouts & Porters...

Any suggestions would be great!

Again the emphasis is on a bit of fruity/ester character but not too overpowering... and not to temperature sensitive - as I don't have a means of temperature control.

Cheers!
 
I like wlp002 and wlp013. They both have a delicious flavor profile and throw some distinct British esters. As with most yeasts, the strength of the esters they throw increase with the fermentation temp. Especially if you let them get warm early on.

I usually have the best success when I start the fermentation a couple of degrees below my desired temp and let them rise into my range. I think that's key with most ferments, but particularly with British yeasts. You have to control them early. Many of them ferment quickly and generate a lot of heat as a result.

I got burned by S04 once. The temp got out of hand at the start and before I could pull it back down, the damage had been done and the esters were far too overpowering.

My recommendation is to go liquid (I really like the 2 I mention above). Make an appropriate sized starter, and get a handle on your temps as soon as you pitch. I usually ferment on the low end for 48-72 hrs, then ramp up at the end in order to get proper attenuation.
 
I don't have any experience using it but i've heard a few people rave about NeoBritannia (1945). I've also had two home brews where it was used and they were delicious. They were a mild and a porter.
 
I just did both a stout and amber with Wyeast 1318 - London Ale III. The ferment temps probably got up to 75F. It has a complementary fruitiness for both beers.
 
Wyeast London ESB is good. I have a Fullers ESB clone on keg now that I brewed that used that yeast. I fermented at 73F. No off flavors or funny esters. It is taking forever to clear in the keg though.

Have also used London Ale and London Ale III in stouts and porters fermented at 73 and they were good too.
 
I'm a big fan of WY1968 for English ales. It is the least attentuative of the English strains, but it's such a champ; most of my ferments with this strain are done in 3-4 days. Easy to control ester production with temp control, it will ferment down into the low 60's fine and leave a pretty clean profile, but certainly leans toward accentuating the malt. I've heard great things about WY1318 too, but never felt the need to look beyond 1968.
 
Another vote for 1968/002 (they are pretty much the same thing). Although it attenuates less than most yeasts, that can be mitigated with low mash temps and extra oxygen.
 
Wyeast is a little tougher to get at my LHBS. However, I use the 002 a lot. If I mash low (150-51) and pitch big, I am often seeing around 75% AA with it.
 
Wyeast is a little tougher to get at my LHBS. However, I use the 002 a lot. If I mash low (150-51) and pitch big, I am often seeing around 75% AA with it.

Dittos here. I have an ESB (mashed at 150*F, pitched at 62*F into oxygenated wort, fermented @ 64, finished @ 69) on WY1968 in the bucket right now. It was mostly done in the first three days and finished at a bit over 78%.
 
Wyeast 1968 London ESB/White Labs 002 make a great house strain. They not only work awesome in English beers, but good APA and IPA's.

I do love me that Yorkshire Square yeast though. That made some really good IPA's too.

Aaron
 
How does 1968 go temperature wise...

Are the wyeast stats accurate in peoples experience...

At this time of year without temperature control I'd imagine my fermenters might sit anywhere from 64 Farenheit to about 72 or so... depending on how much heat the fermentation is producing.

Will it be ok ester wise at these temps?

~R
 
I like to keep it in the mid sixties. You can probably let it get up to about 68 if you pitch cold. Anything warmer than that and you'll run the risk of lots of diacetyl.
 
Cheers for all the info guys - at this point looks like I'll do some experiments with London Ale III/1318 and London ESB/1968.
 
1318 is good with high temps as far as fusels and phenols go, but it is a low attenuator, and is an absolute ester-bomb. I mean that in the nicest possible way; I've made excellent beers with it, including a bitter, IPA, barleywine and APA. It might be my favorite yeast. I'm just not sure it's what you want.
 
I don't have any experience using it but i've heard a few people rave about NeoBritannia (1945). I've also had two home brews where it was used and they were delicious. They were a mild and a porter.

I've used it and am a big fan. It makes an absolutely delicious Standard Bitter (8Lb MO, 8oz C20, 8oz C-pils, 1oz EKG @ 60 and 10m), ferments fast and doesn't seem too bothered by higher temperatures.

First time I used it I let it rip at ambient temps, fermometer on the ale pail topped out at 74F beer temp (checked and known to be accurate) but it's not an ester/diacetyl bomb. Last use I had to keep it in my ferm fridge due to 95+ ambient temps, but it rocketed along again and again nothing too extreme going on, a touch of ester but well within style.

Also used it on an oatmeal stout, it's still bottle conditioning but some tasters along the way have been very pleasing.

It's also a great top cropper. I've pulled about three pints of the stuff off the top of the aforementioned brews, beautiful creamy white yeast with no trub in it. Wakes up really easily after some time in the fridge and gets straight back to work.

Only negative against it is that it can leave a lot of sludge behind if you don't cold crash well. My first brew wasn't cold crashed and I lost a gallon in the fermenter. Cold crashed the stout and the second bitter, down to a much more reasonable 2 quarts left behind.
 
1318 is good with high temps as far as fusels and phenols go, but it is a low attenuator, and is an absolute ester-bomb. I mean that in the nicest possible way; I've made excellent beers with it, including a bitter, IPA, barleywine and APA. It might be my favorite yeast. I'm just not sure it's what you want.

It did a good job with my Amber, but it did leave my stout's FG on the high side. Good thing it was a sweet stout.
 
It did a good job with my Amber, but it did leave my stout's FG on the high side. Good thing it was a sweet stout.

It crapped out early on my barleywine, although I expected as much. I just added some hungrier yeast and it finished the job. I'd hate to have to do that all the time though.
 
I am surprised that the strain has not yet been recommend, but White Labs WLP005/Wyeast 1187 is a very versatile multi-strain British yeast. Ringwood is the most widely used commercial ale yeast strain on the East Coast. It completely dominates the Northeast where Alan Pugsley-built breweries dominate craft brewing.

I am fairly certain that I am the source of Ringwood in the homebrew trade, as I passed it around on slant a lot in 1994 and 1995. I plated the multi-stain yeast from a hydrometer sample taken at the old Wild Goose Brewery in Cambridge, Maryland. To the best of my knowledge, I am the first amateur brewer to identify and isolate both of the stains that make up this yeast.

As mentioned above, Ringwood contains two different strains of yeast. One strain is highly flocculent. In fact, it is so flocculent that it will leave an overpowering level of diacetyl in the finished product if used by itself. The other strain is highly attenuative, but tends to be powdery. Together, they produce a beer with a nice ester and malt profile that contains just with just enough diacetyl to be interesting.

The key to using Ringwood correctly is aeration. Ringwood, being of Yorkshire origin, requires higher dissolved oxygen levels than your standard British-style yeast. Ringwood also clears better than any British yeast that I have ever used. Plus, it can be repitched basically forever, that is, as long one maintains good brewhouse biological quality control. Over time, Ringwood will adapt to one's brewery.
 
EarlyAmateurZymurgist said:
I am surprised that the strain has not yet been recommend, but White Labs WLP005/Wyeast 1187 is a very versatile multi-strain British yeast. Ringwood is the most widely used commercial ale yeast strain on the East Coast. It completely dominates the Northeast where Alan Pugsley-built breweries dominate craft brewing.

I am fairly certain that I am the source of Ringwood in the homebrew trade, as I passed it around on slant a lot in 1994 and 1995. I plated the multi-stain yeast from a hydrometer sample taken at the old Wild Goose Brewery in Cambridge, Maryland. To the best of my knowledge, I am the first amateur brewer to identify and isolate both of the stains that make up this yeast.

As mentioned above, Ringwood contains two different strains of yeast. One strain is highly flocculent. In fact, it is so flocculent that it will leave an overpowering level of diacetyl in the finished product if used by itself. The other strain is highly attenuative, but tends to be powdery. Together, they produce a beer with a nice ester and malt profile that contains just with just enough diacetyl to be interesting.

The key to using Ringwood correctly is aeration. Ringwood, being of Yorkshire origin, requires higher dissolved oxygen levels than your standard British-style yeast. Ringwood also clears better than any British yeast that I have ever used. Plus, it can be repitched basically forever, that is, as long one maintains good brewhouse biological quality control. Over time, Ringwood will adapt to one's brewery.

What styles would you recommend it in? I recently made a bitter and split the batch between 002 and 005. Side by side, I preferred the ester profile of the 002 (although I admit being partial to 002's flavor and aroma profile, so my observations are by no means objective.

It was solely a matter of personal preference. Individually, each beer was excellent. I simply enjoyed the 002 more when used in that beer.

But I wonder if there are beers where 005 would be preferable. I currently have 2 northern English browns on tap (same wort split between 002 and 013). I made the beer expecting the 002 to once again be a clear favorite. As they mature however, I find myself really enjoying the 013.

I'm currently on an opened ended "brewing quest" to match British yeasts up with some of my favorite British styles and am willing to have 005 earn a place in the lineup if I can match it with the right recipe. I plan on concentrating on these styles:
- bitter
- ESB
- English IPA (occasionally)
- stout (alternating seasonally between a dry stout in the spring and summer and an oatmeal stout in colder weather)
- NE Brown

And I may work in a barley wine at some point. I've never brewed one.

I can get white labs more easily fresh. The candidate yeasts are:
-002
-007
-013
-005
-006 since it should be available as the seasonal yeast now.

So far, my preference has been 002 in the ordinary bitter (and I am betting it will transition well to the ESB). And I really like 013 with the brown.

I'd like to settle on no more than 3 but preferably 2 yeasts that I can go to regularly an get to know them well. I'd like one that ferments drier and one that leaves a little residual sweetness so that I can dial them into the beers above. I'd also like one that when fermented cold, stays neutral enough that I can use it in an American IPA when I am in the mood for something more hoppy.
 
The great thing about Ringwood yeast is that it is so versatile. You can practically brew any US or UK beer style with it, it just depends on how well you can control your fermentation and things like oxygen and pitch rate. Fermented properly, this yeast can make something similar to wlp002, or if fermented cool and cleanly, it can make a VERY clean/neutral IPA. (ie. Dogfish Head 60min IPA). It just depends on what you want it to do.... it has good attenuation, ferments fast, great top cropper, and flocculates as well as wlp002.

With that said, Ringwood is one of the more difficult yeasts out there (maybe on par with the Marstons strain - wy1026), and you really need good temp management, use of pure 02, and pitch plenty of healthy yeast in quantity. A lot of homebrewers often complain how much diacetyl this yeast produces and while it can drop a ton of butter flavor, that is mostly due to inadequate oxygenation and/or under pitching.

I particularly like this yeast in malty brown ales and pales/bitters that makes use of dark caramel malts. It also makes great stouts and porters.

Besides from this Ringwood, I would highly suggest trying out wy1318 (superb in dark, sweeter beers) and wlp006 Bedford Bitter. Only available until the end of the month, this yeast makes excellent bitters, pales, and hoppier styles and has a very nice balance of flavors. It is somewhat temperamental to work with, though when fermented right, it makes an absolutely stunning beer.
 
I am another huge fan of ESB 1968, It's is my house strain. It flocculates amazingly, and attenuates in the mid to low 70's% on average. It will ferment solidly at 60 F and be done in 3 to 5 days. If you want a classic English style with the appropriate ester profile, ferment a little warmer, if you want "clean" ferments stay a little cooler. I have used this yeast on stouts, mild's, ESB's, porters, ambers, etc., by keeping an eye on my mashing temps, I have been able to hit the F.G.'s I want just about every time. I am still learning of course, and will find another strain I like i am sure at some point later.
 
What styles would you recommend it in? I recently made a bitter and split the batch between 002 and 005. Side by side, I preferred the ester profile of the 002 (although I admit being partial to 002's flavor and aroma profile, so my observations are by no means objective.

As bierhaus15 has stated, Ringwood is an extremely versatile yeast strain. However, it's not a beginner's yeast strain. Care needs to be taken when propagating it from a smack pack. For best performance, one should step the smack pack to 250mls of 1.030 boiled and cooled wort and then to two liters of 1.030 boiled and cooled wort before pitching into five gallons of wort. Ringwood requires higher than normal dissolved oxygen levels. Starters should be well aerated, preferably with pure 02.

Being of Yorkshire origin, Ringwood is a yeast strain the works best in open fermentors. It will work in a carboy, but it likes to be exposed to air. I used to ferment using a psuedo-open fermentor that was nothing more than a sanitized 10-gallon Vollrath stock pot and lid (Vollrath pots have welded handles; therefore, the inside of the pot is smooth and easy to clean). The lid can be removed after fermentation is underway. The thick yeast cake on top of the wort will continuously turn itself over.

The open fermentors in breweries designed by Peter Austin and built by Alan Pugsley are glycol cooled and have a shower head that sprays the fermenting wort up into the air like a fountain to rouse the yeast. The Austin/Pugsley fermenting process calls for rousing the yeast on the second day of fermentation.
 
I may have to look into this strain. I don't use open fermenters, but I do use pure O2, tightly control my pitching and ferment temps, and I can my own starter wort (in the 1.030 to 1.034 range). I have enough small to mid-size vessels to do multi-step starters.

Is the 005 just the white labs version of Ringwood? I can't get wyeast as easily at my LHBS
 
It crapped out early on my barleywine, although I expected as much. I just added some hungrier yeast and it finished the job. I'd hate to have to do that all the time though.

I went back and looked at my mash temps. My Amber was 149F. The Stout was 154F. Maybe London III needs a sub-150F mash temp to counteract the lower attenuation.
 
Is the 005 just the white labs version of Ringwood? I can't get wyeast as easily at my LHBS

I have been out of the amateur brewing loop for over ten years, but amateur brewers who I know that have continued to brew believe that 005 descends from the one of the slants that I passed around the amateur brewing community in '94 and '95.
 
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