[...]But the experience of building your own is invaluable.
mxpx5678 said:Awesome Thread, great work on the brewstand. However it confirms my suspicions that it would be cheaper to buy a prefabbed one.
But the experience of building your own is invaluable.
Tomtanner said:You are probably right. If you don't already own the tools then you are definitely right. It's been a lot of fun though.
mxpx5678 said:Yup. I have been trying to price this out for myself. And it always fun to build stuff.
PunkinDrublic said:Should be fine, we used aluminum flashing about 6 inches in height with two extra inches in diameter than the burners and they work fine.
On another note, are you still planing on using the switches without a ground?
On another note, are you still planing on using the switches without a ground?
I have a harbor freight welder. It runs perfectly fine for the price. Ive seen videos of the hf welder compared against the 4-500 brand models and there isnt much difference. I agree that the wire sucks though! Its twice as expensive as the lincolin brand. And sucks ass
wncbrewer said:I'm certainly not a pro, but you are definetly going to want ball valves on the out flow side of your pumps. That's the way I have mine and it seems to be the convention among others
Ok I guess I just am inexperienced and fdont understand the dual need. How does it help you? Do you skip need one on your plate chiller?
barryfine said:You don't need one on your plate chiller, but you definitely want one at least on the output of your pump. The march and chugger pumps are designed so that you should only restrict the output and not the input of the flow so you want to keep the valve on your kettle full on and then adjust your flow rate after the pump.
It's also a good idea to have a valve on the input side of the pump with a T to use a priming valve. I also use it to pull my hydrometer readings. Otherwise, you can get an air bubble stuck in the hose prior to the pump that is a pain to try get out.
A priming valve? Can elaborate?
Tomtanner said:Here is what I will use for my burner shrouds. They are stainless steel and cost $40 total for all three to be tacked up and cut.
wncbrewer said:That is a good price, I would pay twice that if it meant not having to bend my burner shrouds again.
philrose said:Tomtanner-
Way to have the gumption and willingness to learn! You are the man!
Great thread too, excellent photos and insight.
PROST.
OneHoppyGuy said:Tom - You might have to cut vents on the top of the rings. We have to modify our design because the burners weren't getting enough air.
We're already at version 5 with out new pilot mount and I just came up with another mod...
OneHoppyGuy said:Tom - You might have to cut vents on the top of the rings. We have to modify our design because the burners weren't getting enough air.
We're already at version 5 with out new pilot mount and I just came up with another mod...
OneHoppyGuy said:One inch is what we use. We added a scallop and that cured the problem.
Here's a barbeque ignitor.
A little out of order but I add the pieces as I get them. I could find any Teflon for the picture so I just did a mock up with me holding it.
View attachment 66352
Thermometer for my chiller
View attachment 66352
View attachment 66353
Assembled to look like this
View attachment 66355
Install will look something like this.
passedpawn said:Keep going Tom. You are doing FLA proud!
Valis said:Really like this addition
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