Switch to E-Brewing - Opinions, Pro's & Con's

[schnackshack]

Hey everyone!

Looking for some advice, insights, opinions here.

My current setup consists of a propane HERMS system, which has been a lot of fun to use, but as I get deeper into the world of beer making, I want that control E-brewing has to offer, without compromising my ability to produce 10 gallon batches. I also want to move away from a gas powered system.

I have two 15gal kettles (HLT, MLT) and a 20gal Boil kettle, 2 brew pumps, hoses, auto-sparge, counterflow chiller, and a custom built SS top brew-stand. All told, a good amount of money into my system. But still, no electronic control.

Way I see it, I have two options. (I'm open to more that I may not be aware of)

1. Convert: Add element heat to all three kettles, add thermocouples and probes, build E-controller, wire in 240V. All for about $2,000
2. Replace: buy an All-in-one E-brew setup, like the BrewZilla 17gal, wire in 240V. All for about $1,000.

For me both have pro's and con's.
Brewery footprint matters to me. So does recipe freedom. Cleanup time should improve or stay the same.

I have no experience with either types of E-brewing setups but if you're willing to share your thoughts, I would appreciate it.


Thanks!!

 

[NSMikeD]

Think of e-brewing like cooks look at sous-vide cooking. When done right the ability to control temperature more exacting can yield a better product and/or free up the brewer to attend to other tasks.

The quality of the heating element(s) plays a huge role to avoid scorching while quick heating. A powerful single element may cut down on the time it takes to boil but might scorch the mash.

Electricity source is another consideration. While 120v may be sufficient for small batches, 240v is preferred with 5+ gallons.

Then of course is the pleasure of brewing indoors with electricity.

I am a small batch BIAB (2.5 g) brewer so the Anvil Foundry 6.5 was a no brainer. I can’t speak from experience with larger systems, but given my current (convenient pun here) eBIAB experience compared to my gas days, eBIAB is a clear thumbs up.

I leave others to speak on their system to help you choose, just keep in mind what I said about the quality of the heating elements as there are numerous posts to be found on this site about scorched brews.

 

[Jtvann]

It should not cost you 2000 dollars to convert. I wouldn’t expect it to be that high. You can buy a premade name brand controller for much less than that amount that can handle your 3v system.

Not trying to steer you in any direction, but will give an example. The Ssbrewtech 3v controller is currently 1300 dollars. It’s included with 3 thermoprobes that are proprietary to their system. Those can be used in any system with thermowells. All your need to do is install 240v heating elements of your choice with L6-30p plugs. You can find them just about anywhere. For instance, brew boss has a good 5500w triclamp grounded element for 40 dollars. There are plenty of other options out there as well. That’s just one controller and element that I have used and knew prices on. There’s tons of others that are cheaper. Making your own for example if you have the know how can save you a lot more.

My advise would be to go conversation route. The all in one systems are fine. I’ve used one. It’s more about brew style to me. If you’re enjoying 3v systems, I’d suggest staying with it.

 

[bstacy1974]

If you're sticking with a HERMS set up, do you need a heating element in your mash tun?

 

[schnackshack]

If you're sticking with a HERMS set up, do you need a heating element in your mash tun?

Good point. I don't believe there would be a need for an element in the Mash Tun.

 

[Fr8Dog]

Good point. I don't believe there would be a need for an element in the Mash Tun.

As long as you have a HERMS coil in your HLT you will not need an element in your MT.

I am kind of in the same situation, although I did not have an existing system to build on as you do. Brewer's Hardware modified one of their 3V systems for me by adding tri clamp ports for the elements in the HLT and BK. They also added a HERMS coil to the HLT and an Autosparge to the MT.

I chose the Uniflex controller from Bru Control. The Uniflex will provide 240V power to the elements and 120V power for the pumps. Still waiting on everything to arrive or I would post some pics.

 

[schnackshack]

The Tri-clamp element with integrated plug from Brew-Boss is one solution I wasn't aware of. Those paired with some type of 3V controller looks almost too easy to implement. I enjoy what I have with my setup, and always have liked the DIY nature of it, giving the freedom to further modify in the future.

Think I'm gonna go the conversion route. I appreciate all the suggestions!

 

[jtgoral]

I use Avantco 3.5KW induction heater, 64QT pot (magnet sticks to it, so induction works), BrewJacket for lagers and BIAB bag fitting the pot. Fermentation happens in Wide Mouth plastic fermenters so it is easy to put them into BrewJacket. That all is for 5.5 gallon batches. I made over 220 batches since I started, most with this setup.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Number 1. Don't get killed. 240V will kill you. Ensure everything is done correctly and to code. If using a "brew stick" don't complete the path between the metal on the stick, you and the ground.

With care in planning and awareness (same as using gas, propane, etc) we have a safe brewing day.

 

[brewswithshoes]

i went from a 3V HERMS to a 15G Brew Boss. couldn't be happier and saw ZERO change in my final product. not saying that 3 vessels don't provide more control, but i have every bit of control i need (and then some) with the Brew Boss. Not trying to sell you on Brew Boos, but i did exactly want you are doing and i think I paid about $1100 for my setup. I think i recoup'd some of that when i sold off my older 3V setup.

If you are going to brew mostly 10G batches i would get the 20G if you go Brew Boss. I brew mostly 5G batches, but have on occassion done a few 10G's in my 15G pot. (it's a bit stressful cutting it that close)

Cleanup time is a breeze compared to my 3V days. I use the BB COFI basket and clean as i go. I probably shaved 90 mins to 2 hours off my cleaning time when i switched.

Also, i strongly agree with @Tobor_8thMan don't mess around with 220/240V. i shut my whole main down just to work up a dryer plug cutover for the spa panel/brew boss controller to run. After having 220V boils i don't think i could ever go back to a smaller element.

Good luck whatever route you take !!

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Yes 10 gallon needs at least a 20 gallon brew kettle.

20 gallon brew kettle (with 13.9 gallons to start) watching for boil over.

 

[passedpawn]

Yes 10 gallon needs at least a 20 gallon brew kettle.

20 gallon brew kettle (with 13.9 gallons to start) watching for boil over.
View attachment 713478

A 15.5g keggle is plenty for 10g batches, especially if you're good with fermcap-s and an Auber EasyBoil. I've done a few over the years.

 

[Deric]

Yes 10 gallon needs at least a 20 gallon brew kettle.

20 gallon brew kettle (with 13.9 gallons to start) watching for boil over.

How is that 13.9 gallons in a 20 gallon kettle? I regularly do 13.5 gallons in a 15 gallon kettle and it looks like your pic.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Protein break at beginning of boil

 

[kidmock]

If you are happy with your system, your process and you just want to get away from gas. This is where I was at when I made the switch. What I did was:

1. I ran a 50 Amp 240v Circuit to my garage. For a point of reference, and 5500 Watt element will draw about 20 amps you need to be able to satisfy this need. If you are only driving 1 element at a time 30 amp service is fine. Some folks will just run their element off of a electric clothes dryer receptacle, if you do this you'll likely need an inline GFCI, Your cost here is going to vary. I won't even give a guess.
2. I retrofitted my Brew Kettles with a Weldless 1.5 TC Bulkhead for about $30. Given the option weldless is pain. If you can get it soldered or welded, I do that.
3. A 5500 Watt element ($60) and Cord ($30)
4. I just used a blichmann power controller for $150 to regulate my temperature.

This was my first entry into E brewing only cost me about $300 to get started.

You can grow your system over time and use a combination of both electric and gas as you do.

 

[MikeCo]

If you are only driving 1 element at a time 30 amp service is fine. Some folks will just run their element off of a electric clothes dryer receptacle, if you do this you'll likely need an inline GFCI, Your cost here is going to vary.

I use a dryer receptacle for electric single vessel BIAB. Since I'm not currently using the outlet for a dryer, I installed a GFCI breaker in the panel. The breaker cost about $80. I have heard that some dryers may trip the GFCI, but I don't have any direct experience with it.

If you plan to brew some distance from the outlet, an extension cord will be required. I made a 50' cord that cost close to $100.

 

[WesBrew]

I switched last year but just use a single element right now.
-30a circuit,diy $240, brew commander $375, TC element $65, 10' 30a ext cord diy $40
-love electric, wont go back. fast heating, no wasted energy, precise, no filling gas bottles, can do it indoors. if indoor brewing you have to consider how to vent the steam. I use a DIY steam condenser.

 

[Staticsouls]

Pros- Much better heat control. When done right there is much less chance of injury since there will be gfci and no has or open flame. With electric boil over should be pretty nonexistent, and depending on the stage you can pause or extend the brewing session to suit your schedule (long or overnight mashes and having strike water preheated prior to brew session).

Cons - Wires? Sometimes they kinda get in the way, but that's is probably just my ghetto diy setup.

I brewed for 2 years on gas and would not even bother unless I had no other options.

 

[WesBrew]

Electric brewing is awesome. electrical work is DANGEROUS! I feel for real electricians ....while re-running the 30a wires for the electric elements. a hair on a knuckle grazed the copper bar in the panel. holy crap! got a faint pulsation, but a vivid impression of what could have happened. futzing with the wire, took my eye off of it. Make damn sure you have someone that knows what they are doing.

 

[Bobby_M]

Two element kits works out to about $200. Add one Blichmann Brewcommander for $375 and swap the power cables/probe wires once during the sparge. Probably another 250 for the 30amp GFCI circuit.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Electric brewing is awesome. electrical work is DANGEROUS! I feel for real electricians ....while re-running the 30a wires for the electric elements. a hair on a knuckle grazed the copper bar in the panel. holy crap! got a faint pulsation, but a vivid impression of what could have happened. futzing with the wire, took my eye off of it. Make damn sure you have someone that knows what they are doing.

Leads to questions. Why in the world was the panel live with electricty while rerunning wires? Why was the panel even plugged into the 240V receptacle (outlet) while rerunning wires?

 

[WesBrew]

all is good and sealed up. system is cranking again. even the smaller 3500w element in the new HLT heats up 5 gallons surprisingly fast.

 

[Zemillard90]

Made the switch last year and love it! Being able to brew indoors when it is -20F outside (MN) is fantastic.

+1 on the brewcommander. Very happy with affordable controller. Cheers!

 

[WesBrew]

Made the switch last year and love it! Being able to brew indoors when it is -20F outside (MN) is fantastic.
+1 on the brewcommander. Very happy with affordable controller. Cheers!

-and in the a/c when its 99 degrees in Florida summer...I've been in MN in the summer too and was shocked how miserable it was. lol

 

[Deadalus]

I don't think your cleanup time would change much if you converted your system to electric. You are cleaning all the same things except the BK element, which might take an extra 2 minutes. Mine's a little tight near one end so I have to pry the space open gently and get a brush on it. I converted a keggle system from propane to electric but I didn't have much going on in the way of pumps when I used gas.

The TC elements look to be an easier installation, I have an element with a junction box on the back. I've been meaning to get a good look at one that's been converted in order to tell for sure.

I still brew outside because I haven't gotten around finishing my garage ceiling and I am waiting to do that before putting in a hood. I have other projects I need to complete and can't give that priority.

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't think your cleanup time would change much if you converted your system to electric. You are cleaning all the same things except the BK element, which might take an extra 2 minutes. Mine's a little tight near one end so I have to pry the space open gently and get a brush on it. I converted a keggle system from propane to electric but I didn't have much going on in the way of pumps when I used gas.

The TC elements look to be an easier installation, I have an element with a junction box on the back. I've been meaning to get a good look at one that's been converted in order to tell for sure.

I still brew outside because I haven't gotten around finishing my garage ceiling and I am waiting to do that before putting in a hood. I have other projects I need to complete and can't give that priority.

Kettle cleaning is very much easier in an electric boil kettle than a gas fired one. It has something to do with the kettle getting slightly hotter than boiling at the bottom and also all the heat the kettle gets up above the wort line that sets all the sugars into caramel.

 

[AkTom]

I switched from 15.5 keggle propane, to Anvil 10.5. Living in Alaska, brewing out side sucks. I’ll be moving to Texas soon so brewing out side will suck too. Love the electric. I’ll keep my keggle and 3v system. I’m not sure how much use it’ll get.

 

[Deadalus]

Kettle cleaning is very much easier in an electric boil kettle than a gas fired one. It has something to do with the kettle getting slightly hotter than boiling at the bottom and also all the heat the kettle gets up above the wort line that sets all the sugars into caramel.

That's a good point Bobby. Like the difference between cleaning a frying pan vs a pot where something is more gently boiled. The element is suspended in the wort and heat isn't directly applied to the metal of the vessel. I turn the BK power on soon after the element is covered but not full power right away. Once the BK gets fuller I'll turn the power up as I sparge. I seem to get fewer deposits on the element that way. When I used gas, I didn't use the pump to clean, I didn't have a HERMS coil or a plate chiller. Now I run PBW through the system at the end and I wasn't so sure how that might compare to the same process on a gas-fired BK. I still have to take a green scrubbie to the bottom of the BK but it's about as easy as cleaning a nonstick pan. I do recall getting scorch marks on the bottom when I used gas that required more elbow grease. A somewhat separate problem as one of my burners was a high output cone shaped flame not a commonly used burner type.