Thoughts on Blichmann's Boilermaker Surface?

[Yesfan]

I've only seen Beer & BBQ with Larry mention it in one of his videos, but it looks like a slick e-kettle. Anyone have one of these setups yet or is it still a new release? Could one get the 20G version with the 240V Brew Commander and be ready to jump into eBIAB brewing or is there more to it. This setup looks cheaper than what you would get from Spike or Clawhammer and there's a lifetime warranty to boot.

I'm still running a three vessel propane setup that I'm happy with, but the summers/winters feel more brutal as I get older. I'm not looking to jump into eBrewing anytime soon due to finances, but I do like it if I made the jump. The only cons, for me, are I have to add a 240V outlet somehow in my garage. I really don't want to give up on my Top Tier and DIY mash tun either. I could incorporate the mash tun as some sort of K-rims setup if possible, but I bet there is a weight restriction on the Top Tier's Shelves. 20 gallons full of wert with that kettle would be pretty heavy I suppose. The other kicker is doing 5 gallon batches in a 20 gallon kettle. Too bad there's no 15 gallon version.

 

[cfrazier77]

Here are my thoughts, if it was concave and bottom draining, and a mask tun manway like spike I would order a system from them. I am getting older and I don't want to lift heavy pots to clean them. They would be awesome.

But, cons, 15 gallon pots are less wattage than I would like, 3500 I believe. Heavy, no steam removal lid.

Pros, ready to clean. More flexibility in boil volumes, don't have to worry about keeping an element submerged. Sight glass over just internal markings.


But, if you are getting older like me, don't forget to think about weight and cleaning.

 

[MikeCo]

I'm not familiar with the Surface, but the specs show the 20 gallon system has 5500 watts which should be fine. It looks like you would need to add a pump and recirc system which I would highly recommend.

I have a Spike 15 gallon system similar to this - same except it has a boilcoil for a heating element, and I don't use a false bottom. It works well and keeps the mash temperature very stable.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabpackagepremium.htm

 

[Broken Crow]

but the summers/winters feel more brutal as I get older.

Which aspect is getting more brutal, brewing in the climate, or the labour of brewing in general? If you just want to bring it indoors, going electric doesn't have to be too costly. The popular control big and costly control box isn't the only way. Do you maybe have space to go from your garage to your laundry room and borrow a 240V clothes-dryer plug? I often seem to mention my brain-damage on here; one aspect of that is that I have a limited working-memory span and can only process smaller data-sets, so for brewing I chose to make discreet controllers for each element, as having them all in one panel would be potentially confusing and definitely less intuitive for me to use. I made a power controller (rather than a temperature controller) for my BK; bought an SSVR, heatsink and pot for about $15 off Amazon, as well as a good relay, a cheap power-meter (V & A), switch, L6 and L14 plugs, and I made my own (ugly) case for it..less than $100. The HLT temperature controller is the popular Inkbird PID/SSR combo, also off Amazon, with Auber temp probe. The RIMS controller is where I spent more serious cash to get the Auber DSPR320. I'm in Canada so ordering from the US gets pretty costly for me, but since you're in the US, brewhardware.com has the elements and fittings you'd need.
Here's my cheap power-controller; (Note: I use my kitchen...I slide the stove out and use it's plug.)

 

[Bobby_M]

I've only seen Beer & BBQ with Larry mention it in one of his videos, but it looks like a slick e-kettle. Anyone have one of these setups yet or is it still a new release? Could one get the 20G version with the 240V Brew Commander and be ready to jump into eBIAB brewing or is there more to it. This setup looks cheaper than what you would get from Spike or Clawhammer and there's a lifetime warranty to boot.

I'm still running a three vessel propane setup that I'm happy with, but the summers/winters feel more brutal as I get older. I'm not looking to jump into eBrewing anytime soon due to finances, but I do like it if I made the jump. The only cons, for me, are I have to add a 240V outlet somehow in my garage. I really don't want to give up on my Top Tier and DIY mash tun either. I could incorporate the mash tun as some sort of K-rims setup if possible, but I bet there is a weight restriction on the Top Tier's Shelves. 20 gallons full of wert with that kettle would be pretty heavy I suppose. The other kicker is doing 5 gallon batches in a 20 gallon kettle. Too bad there's no 15 gallon version.

I have each of the sizes on hand and it's a 10 or 20. Let's back up a second. You're thinking correctly that eBIAB is going to be a major improvement from a 3 vessel propane. Been there, done that and you'll have to pry my eBIAB out of my cold dead hands. If you were to poll everyone that has converted to eBIAB from a 3 vessel with or without propane, I bet 98% would say it was the best thing they've done for their brewing. 2% would say they went back or want to go back to 3 vessel.

The kettle brand/selection ultimately is of little consequence. My biggest disappointment with the SURFACE style kettles is the inability to bottom drain it. Once you get up to the 20G size, the ability to CIP without lifting the kettle at all is quite nice.

The other con is the price. The 20G surface is $325 MORE than the same kettle without the built in heat. If I built the regular kettle and added a ripple element (via TC weld), that's only $125 more. So.. $200 premium for a subsurface element. In either case, I'd recommend a false bottom to keep the bag off the hot surface of the element and leave a place for the sensor probe.

 

[Bobby_M]

Here are my thoughts, if it was concave and bottom draining, and a mask tun manway like spike I would order a system from them. I am getting older and I don't want to lift heavy pots to clean them. They would be awesome.

I agree on the bottom drain, but I'm not a fan of concave center drains. An edge drain with a very slight kettle tilt is great because you can actually use that as the pump source for almost all functions. The exception is for the last wort drain off where I prefer switching the source over to a whirlpool port that can be rotated.

But, cons, 15 gallon pots are less wattage than I would like, 3500 I believe. Heavy, no steam removal lid.

15 not available. 10 and 20 only. Steam condensers are available.

 

[cfrazier77]

I agree on the bottom drain, but I'm not a fan of concave center drains. An edge drain with a very slight kettle tilt is great because you can actually use that as the pump source for almost all functions. The exception is for the last wort drain off where I prefer switching the source over to a whirlpool port that can be rotated.

15 not available. 10 and 20 only. Steam condensers are available.

Thanks Bobby, I thought I saw a 15 the other day when I was looking at them. I checked again, you are right. I would be happy with a button side drain. I did not see a stream lid for these yet, from them.

 

[Bobby_M]

Thanks Bobby, I thought I saw a 15 the other day when I was looking at them. I checked again, you are right. I would be happy with a button side drain. I did not see a stream lid for these yet, from them.

I'll be more explicit. There are good aftermarket steam condensing units that can either mount to to a lid or through a side port in ANY kettle. I try not to make an overt sales pitch in every post because people that don't know me might think I'm just here to shill products.

 

[cfrazier77]

I'll be more explicit. There are good aftermarket steam condensing units that can either mount to to a lid or through a side port in ANY kettle. I try not to make an overt sales pitch in every post because people that don't know me might think I'm just here to shill products.
View attachment 827337

Got you, your stuff works amazing, a lot of it is in my brew house.

 

[Yesfan]

Which aspect is getting more brutal, brewing in the climate, or the labour of brewing in general? If you just want to bring it indoors, going electric doesn't have to be too costly. The popular control big and costly control box isn't the only way. Do you maybe have space to go from your garage to your laundry room and borrow a 240V clothes-dryer plug? I often seem to mention my brain-damage on here; one aspect of that is that I have a limited working-memory span and can only process smaller data-sets, so for brewing I chose to make discreet controllers for each element, as having them all in one panel would be potentially confusing and definitely less intuitive for me to use. I made a power controller (rather than a temperature controller) for my BK; bought an SSVR, heatsink and pot for about $15 off Amazon, as well as a good relay, a cheap power-meter (V & A), switch, L6 and L14 plugs, and I made my own (ugly) case for it..less than $100. The HLT temperature controller is the popular Inkbird PID/SSR combo, also off Amazon, with Auber temp probe. The RIMS controller is where I spent more serious cash to get the Auber DSPR320. I'm in Canada so ordering from the US gets pretty costly for me, but since you're in the US, brewhardware.com has the elements and fittings you'd need.
Here's my cheap power-controller; (Note: I use my kitchen...I slide the stove out and use it's plug.)
View attachment 827292
View attachment 827293

The climate. I'm not so much bothered by labor. Even with 3 vessels, I find time to get everything cleaned during pre-boil and after the hot break/first hop addition. Once the first hop addition is made, cleaning for me is no different than a single vessel BIAB.

 

[Yesfan]

I have each of the sizes on hand and it's a 10 or 20. Let's back up a second. You're thinking correctly that eBIAB is going to be a major improvement from a 3 vessel propane. Been there, done that and you'll have to pry my eBIAB out of my cold dead hands. If you were to poll everyone that has converted to eBIAB from a 3 vessel with or without propane, I bet 98% would say it was the best thing they've done for their brewing. 2% would say they went back or want to go back to 3 vessel.

The kettle brand/selection ultimately is of little consequence. My biggest disappointment with the SURFACE style kettles is the inability to bottom drain it. Once you get up to the 20G size, the ability to CIP without lifting the kettle at all is quite nice.

The other con is the price. The 20G surface is $325 MORE than the same kettle without the built in heat. If I built the regular kettle and added a ripple element (via TC weld), that's only $125 more. So.. $200 premium for a subsurface element. In either case, I'd recommend a false bottom to keep the bag off the hot surface of the element and leave a place for the sensor probe.

No argument here.

$200 difference is a lot, but there's the volume flexibility (dry firing the element) and ease of cleaning. There's also a lifetime warranty. Not a deal maker, but worth mentioning since essentially the whole kettle would have to be replaced if the element bit the dust.



Questions I have is, how hard is it to go electric? Is there a certain eco system to stay with or is it pretty universal? Do I have to have Blichmann's controller for their kettles, Spike's for there's, etc.? The cables connecting the kettle elements to the controllers seem proprietary, so I'm thinking yeah. Blichmann's Surface paired with the Brew Commander, while it isn't a cheap system, seems cheaper to move to then I initiated. Sure the others like Spike and Clawhammer add other things, but I don't need a pump and/or want a plate chiller.

The biggest headache I think is running a 240V to my garage. There's no way I could have a eBIAB setup upstairs in the kitchen. Too little space and spousal regulations. I like the space in my garage anyways and it stays decently cool in the summer if I keep the doors closed (which I don't with propane). Besides everything I need is there.

I like the Brew Easy setup with the stacked MLT and BK. I'd like that setup if I can keep my current mash tun.

 

[Bobby_M]

No argument here.

$200 difference is a lot, but there's the volume flexibility (dry firing the element) and ease of cleaning. There's also a lifetime warranty. Not a deal maker, but worth mentioning since essentially the whole kettle would have to be replaced if the element bit the dust.

Yeah, the lifetime warranty definitely helps but you'd have to dry fire a ripple 3 times to make that economy work.
Here's the base of the surface in case you were interested. The element seems to be brazed to the bottom. The kettle is the lower part and the brushed finish part at the top is the removable base tilted up and away.

Questions I have is, how hard is it to go electric? Is there a certain eco system to stay with or is it pretty universal? Do I have to have Blichmann's controller for their kettles, Spike's for there's, etc.? The cables connecting the kettle elements to the controllers seem proprietary, so I'm thinking yeah. Blichmann's Surface paired with the Brew Commander, while it isn't a cheap system, seems cheaper to move to then I initiated. Sure the others like Spike and Clawhammer add other things, but I don't need a pump and/or want a plate chiller.

There is no need to stick with any kind of brand. For the most part, all elements have an L6-30P plug on them which is the twist lock 3 prong. The Blich Surface, the Blich Boil Coil, The Spike ripple, Brewhardware ripple, etc all have the same plug. I'm not aware of a single proprietary connection except for maybe SSbrewtech, but that's more because their controller probe is built into the element (F-them for that by the way).

That's kind of why I like being somewhat brand flexible in my own builds because you know that no manufacturer is going to always have the best design on every aspect of a build. I mean they try, and some claim to, but a great example is that I much prefer Blichmann's TC linear flow valves on kettles smaller than 50 gallons to other manufacturers' ball valves and butterfly valves. They have the adjustability of a ball valve with the sanitary cleanliness of a butterfly.

Without pump recirculating, spitballing here.

20G surface
Brewhardware BIAB false bottom with the 1/4" lift legs. You definitely want to keep the bag off the element. If you didn't want to get too fancy, you could drop the brew commander's probe down onto the false bottom, then drop the bag in. It would always be measuring the bottom temp of the mash.

Whether you wanted the weldless drain valve install or TC port valve is no matter. Hell, I can even sell you one that has no ports on it at all (except the sightglass which I always order) if you wanted to siphon wort out. I personally would recommend letting me put in a drain and whirlpool return as low as possible in case you decided to pump recirc in the future.

The downside to not pumping is that you would want to wrap the kettle in a double layer of reflectix to hold heat better and then stir the mash about every 10-15 minutes. Recirculating with a pump would negate all of that. It's where I ended up with my system, and there are a LOT of people with the same setup now.

I agree about the plate chiller. I'm very much happy with immersion chillers.

The biggest headache I think is running a 240V to my garage. There's no way I could have a eBIAB setup upstairs in the kitchen. Too little space and spousal regulations. I like the space in my garage anyways and it stays decently cool in the summer if I keep the doors closed (which I don't with propane). Besides everything I need is there.

I like the Brew Easy setup with the stacked MLT and BK. I'd like that setup if I can keep my current mash tun.

I'll be frank (you can still be Yesfan). I HATE 2 vessel kettle RIMS setups. They are twice the pain in the ass as a single vessel BIAB and no known benefit. The only thing proponents of those systems can say is that the wort can be a little cleaner/clearer in the boil but there is no indication that it makes better beer. Since I have dozens of kettles in the shop to goof around with, I've turned my BIAB kettle into the heated side of that setup along with a Spike mash tun and ran a K-rims for 3 consecutive batches. Instead of a 4 hour brew day and being able to walk away for the entire mash, it turned into a 5 hour brew day due to the extra setup and cleanup. They don't step mash as quickly either and the brewhouse efficiency is about 5% lower (and full volume mashing is already down at about 70% so I'm not so keen on giving up more. Again, the main reason is that there is no explicit benefit.

 

[Yesfan]

Yeah, the lifetime warranty definitely helps but you'd have to dry fire a ripple 3 times to make that economy work.
Here's the base of the surface in case you were interested. The element seems to be brazed to the bottom. The kettle is the lower part and the brushed finish part at the top is the removable base tilted up and away.
View attachment 827362

There is no need to stick with any kind of brand. For the most part, all elements have an L6-30P plug on them which is the twist lock 3 prong. The Blich Surface, the Blich Boil Coil, The Spike ripple, Brewhardware ripple, etc all have the same plug. I'm not aware of a single proprietary connection except for maybe SSbrewtech, but that's more because their controller probe is built into the element (F-them for that by the way).

That's kind of why I like being somewhat brand flexible in my own builds because you know that no manufacturer is going to always have the best design on every aspect of a build. I mean they try, and some claim to, but a great example is that I much prefer Blichmann's TC linear flow valves on kettles smaller than 50 gallons to other manufacturers' ball valves and butterfly valves. They have the adjustability of a ball valve with the sanitary cleanliness of a butterfly.

Without pump recirculating, spitballing here.

20G surface
Brewhardware BIAB false bottom with the 1/4" lift legs. You definitely want to keep the bag off the element. If you didn't want to get too fancy, you could drop the brew commander's probe down onto the false bottom, then drop the bag in. It would always be measuring the bottom temp of the mash.
View attachment 827363
Whether you wanted the weldless drain valve install or TC port valve is no matter. Hell, I can even sell you one that has no ports on it at all (except the sightglass which I always order) if you wanted to siphon wort out. I personally would recommend letting me put in a drain and whirlpool return as low as possible in case you decided to pump recirc in the future.

The downside to not pumping is that you would want to wrap the kettle in a double layer of reflectix to hold heat better and then stir the mash about every 10-15 minutes. Recirculating with a pump would negate all of that. It's where I ended up with my system, and there are a LOT of people with the same setup now.

I agree about the plate chiller. I'm very much happy with immersion chillers.






I'll be frank (you can still be Yesfan). I HATE 2 vessel kettle RIMS setups. They are twice the pain in the ass as a single vessel BIAB and no known benefit. The only thing proponents of those systems can say is that the wort can be a little cleaner/clearer in the boil but there is no indication that it makes better beer. Since I have dozens of kettles in the shop to goof around with, I've turned my BIAB kettle into the heated side of that setup along with a Spike mash tun and ran a K-rims for 3 consecutive batches. Instead of a 4 hour brew day and being able to walk away for the entire mash, it turned into a 5 hour brew day due to the extra setup and cleanup. They don't step mash as quickly either and the brewhouse efficiency is about 5% lower (and full volume mashing is already down at about 70% so I'm not so keen on giving up more. Again, the main reason is that there is no explicit benefit.

Quick question Bobby (or is it still Frank?),

If you ran a 15 gallon tun as part of a K-Rims setup (using the 20G Surface) vs the same 20G Surface in a dedicated single vessel eBIAB, wouldn't that second vessel at least give you more room for larger mashes? I know, I know. I'm splitting hairs here Frank, but trust me I'm no more a barber than you're Bobby.....

In all seriousness, just picking your brain on that. I would think that would be one advantage, but yeah I'm probably wrong. On another note, I like the false bottom idea. Like you, I like brand flexibility. Is there a basket option that would work with the Surface?

For the ball valves, I have the EZ Clean ball valves with TC ends. A TC holds the whole valve assembly together. I'm pretty sure I got them from you. Only con is a lot of weight to them, but I love how easy they are to clean compared to the old 3pc valves I had.

 

[Bobby_M]

Quick question Bobby (or is it still Frank?),

If you ran a 15 gallon tun as part of a K-Rims setup (using the 20G Surface) vs the same 20G Surface in a dedicated single vessel eBIAB, wouldn't that second vessel at least give you more room for larger mashes? I know, I know. I'm splitting hairs here Frank, but trust me I'm no more a barber than you're Bobby.....

I don't even think it's splitting hairs. You can put 15-16 gallons of water in a 20 along with a full 50 pound sack of grain for an approximate 11 gallon batch at 1.11 OG (13% ABV)

In all seriousness, just picking your brain on that. I would think that would be one advantage, but yeah I'm probably wrong. On another note, I like the false bottom idea. Like you, I like brand flexibility. Is there a basket option that would work with the Surface?

The Spike solo 20 basket will fit, but it leaves a lot more deadspace than I'd want for a 5 gallon batch. I have an all-mesh leftover basket that I bought from Brew-Boss that would work. It has legs that hold it 2.75" off the bottom but those could be modified if you wanted it bad enough. The baskets generally offer slightly lower efficiency because they don't drain as actively as a lifted/hanging bag. I'm firmly team bag. That doesn't sound right.

For the ball valves, I have the EZ Clean ball valves with TC ends. A TC holds the whole valve assembly together. I'm pretty sure I got them from you. Only con is a lot of weight to them, but I love how easy they are to clean compared to the old 3pc valves I had.

Yeah the Blich linears are even easier. No clamps, just thread the needle valve out all the way.

 

[Yesfan]

I don't even think it's splitting hairs. You can put 15-16 gallons of water in a 20 along with a full 50 pound sack of grain for an approximate 11 gallon batch at 1.11 OG (13% ABV)

Holy sh......!


The next brew day, I may change some things up. I think I still have a spare biab bag somewhere just to see how that goes. Good to know about the Blichmann valves. Thanks Bobby.

EDIT: I ordered the Blichmann valve and some other goodies. I have a sealing problem on a current batch and ordered an autosiphon as back up in case I needed it. Figured I'd give the valve a try. Thanks Bobby.

 

[MisterBrewer]

I've only seen Beer & BBQ with Larry mention it in one of his videos, but it looks like a slick e-kettle. Anyone have one of these setups yet or is it still a new release? Could one get the 20G version with the 240V Brew Commander and be ready to jump into eBIAB brewing or is there more to it. This setup looks cheaper than what you would get from Spike or Clawhammer and there's a lifetime warranty to boot.

I'm still running a three vessel propane setup that I'm happy with, but the summers/winters feel more brutal as I get older. I'm not looking to jump into eBrewing anytime soon due to finances, but I do like it if I made the jump. The only cons, for me, are I have to add a 240V outlet somehow in my garage. I really don't want to give up on my Top Tier and DIY mash tun either. I could incorporate the mash tun as some sort of K-rims setup if possible, but I bet there is a weight restriction on the Top Tier's Shelves. 20 gallons full of wert with that kettle would be pretty heavy I suppose. The other kicker is doing 5 gallon batches in a 20 gallon kettle. Too bad there's no 15 gallon version.

I have heard so many reports that integrated electric elements go bad over time. Why spend $800 on a Boilermaker kettle with integrated burner. I would suggest buying a Kettle with a 1.5" TC port. You can buy stainless steel elements on Amazon for $40 bucks. If they ever break, you just buy a new one. The boilermaker is welded on and when the warranty expires and it goes bad, you have to buy a whole new kettle.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have heard so many reports that integrated electric elements go bad over time. Why spend $800 on a Boilermaker kettle with integrated burner. I would suggest buying a Kettle with a 1.5" TC port. You can buy stainless steel elements on Amazon for $40 bucks. If they ever break, you just buy a new one. The boilermaker is welded on and when the warranty expires and it goes bad, you have to buy a whole new kettle.

Blichmann is supporting it with a lifetime warranty so moot?

 

[Yesfan]

I have heard so many reports that integrated electric elements go bad over time. Why spend $800 on a Boilermaker kettle with integrated burner. I would suggest buying a Kettle with a 1.5" TC port. You can buy stainless steel elements on Amazon for $40 bucks. If they ever break, you just buy a new one. The boilermaker is welded on and when the warranty expires and it goes bad, you have to buy a whole new kettle.

Bobby beat me to it. John Blichmann made a YouTube video shortly after making one for the Surface saying everything on the unit would be warrantied for life. Besides, I think the element is somewhat servicable or (somewhat) easy to replace. But again, if it's got a lifetime warranty, I'll let Blichmann do all the heavy work.

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby beat me to it. John Blichmann made a YouTube video shortly after making one for the Surface saying everything on the unit would be warrantied for life. Besides, I think the element is somewhat servicable or (somewhat) easy to replace. But again, if it's got a lifetime warranty, I'll let Blichmann do all the heavy work.

Oh it's definitely brazed to the underside of the kettle shell itself so I think their warranty would be a full kettle replacement, at least the shell and element.

 

[MikeCo]

Blichmann says the advantage of this configuration is reduced cleaning time compared to an immersed coil, which I suppose it true. I haven't had too much trouble keeping my boil coil clean on the other hand. I would think the immersed element is more efficient at heating since it's fully immersed and there is not much opportunity for heat loss from the bottom of the heating element like in the Surface. Has anybody used a Surface? How well does it work?

 

[Yesfan]

Blichmann says the advantage of this configuration is reduced cleaning time compared to an immersed coil, which I suppose it true. I haven't had too much trouble keeping my boil coil clean on the other hand. I would think the immersed element is more efficient at heating since it's fully immersed and there is not much opportunity for heat loss from the bottom of the heating element like in the Surface. Has anybody used a Surface? How well does it work?

Don't know if you watch him, but The Apartment Brewer did a review of the Surface (Brew Easy Compact). He compares some of the numbers of it to his 10 gallon Clawhammer.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have both 10G and 20G surface kettles on hand and I haven't filled either with water yet. I guess I was reluctant to have to sell at a discount as a demo unit. My brewing system is a regular 15G boilermaker with a 5000 watt Slingblade element. I'm cool with comparing some heating times with 5 gallons of water between that element and the 20G surface, but swapping out the Slingblade for a 5500 watt ripple would be a better apples to apples comparison because the 20G surface is supposed to be 5500 watts also.

 

[MisterBrewer]

Blichmann is supporting it with a lifetime warranty so moot?

Not really, have you ever tried to return anything at Blichmann? It is a nightmare. There is no human to talk to. You have to put your message on their answering machine but they never call you back. You can buy a Spike Solo Kettle for half the price and a couple of 1.5 TC heating elements on Amazon and your system will never breakdown on you.

 

[MisterBrewer]

Oh it's definitely brazed to the underside of the kettle shell itself so I think their warranty would be a full kettle replacement, at least the shell and element.

Before you rely on a warranty, just try to return something to Blichmann. Damn near impossible. Besides your surface will be gone for months. Why not think about this alternative? Buy a heavy duty Stainless kettle with 1.5 TC ports? You can buy one for half the price of the surface. Then buy TWO heating elements on Amazon so you have a spare. THEN if you get an error code on your controller like, ERROR code. bleep, "NO Brew for you" then you can cap off the TC port and use the Propane burner like the cavemen used to do. You can't use a propane burner on the Blichmann Surface Kettle.

 

[cfrazier77]

I had a issue with a piece of blichman equipment. I called, talked to a human, and they replaced it right away.

 

[ThomperYT]

I have both 10G and 20G surface kettles on hand and I haven't filled either with water yet. I guess I was reluctant to have to sell at a discount as a demo unit. My brewing system is a regular 15G boilermaker with a 5000 watt Slingblade element. I'm cool with comparing some heating times with 5 gallons of water between that element and the 20G surface, but swapping out the Slingblade for a 5500 watt ripple would be a better apples to apples comparison because the 20G surface is supposed to be 5500 watts also.

Please let us know what your heating times look like when you get a chance. Eager to have some real world results and data to compare before sinking $800+ into a BK.
I'm budgeting a switch from 3 tank propane to eBrewing and have this equipment on my list to research and the tech is very intriguing.
Thanks in advance, what you have shared already in this thread has been a huge benefit to the community.

 

[Bobby_M]

Please let us know what your heating times look like when you get a chance. Eager to have some real world results and data to compare before sinking $800+ into a BK.
I'm budgeting a switch from 3 tank propane to eBrewing and have this equipment on my list to research and the tech is very intriguing.
Thanks in advance, what you have shared already in this thread has been a huge benefit to the community.

Are you looking at a 10G or 20G vessel?

 

[ThomperYT]

Are you looking at a 10G or 20G vessel?

20g. I make 10 gal finished batches at at time using 3 old converted 15.5 gal kegs with some holes we cut in the top of them etc.

 

[Knightshade]

I don't even think it's splitting hairs. You can put 15-16 gallons of water in a 20 along with a full 50 pound sack of grain for an approximate 11 gallon batch at 1.11 OG (13% ABV)

The Spike solo 20 basket will fit, but it leaves a lot more deadspace than I'd want for a 5 gallon batch. I have an all-mesh leftover basket that I bought from Brew-Boss that would work. It has legs that hold it 2.75" off the bottom but those could be modified if you wanted it bad enough. The baskets generally offer slightly lower efficiency because they don't drain as actively as a lifted/hanging bag. I'm firmly team bag. That doesn't sound right.


Yeah the Blich linears are even easier. No clamps, just thread the needle valve out all the way.

I'm only here for the comedy, that was awesome.