Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

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Pump it +1 yes... A gallon of most liquids are in the 8-9 lb range...the carts I bought have a 600 lb capacity...20 gal in a 30 gal fermenter is less than half the load cap...I went all tri-clamp below including the sight glass/ trub dump/ yeast collector... I will up some pics and material list next week when all assembled.
 
How r u guys racking the beer over from the kettle itself. Or i guess how tall is this. Bc 10+ gal of any liqued is a bit heavy

Manual Labor:
DSCN1321.jpg
 
Con someone post how far up the racking port needs to be installed for a 30 gallon conical like this?
 
I am going to rack from the top as well. I'll be filtering at the same time.


I suppose that the position of the racking port is not important since you can empty the yeast before racking anyway. It looks like most people are leaving about 6-8 inches for yeast cake.
 
i bought the 30 gallon ace rotomold full drain and put the 1/2" racking port 6" up from the bottom. works great. sometimes if it happens to be a little low, i am dumping of the first little bit anyway to make sure i get clear beer coming off, then i dump the rest into the cornies.

hope that helps
 
I suppose that the position of the racking port is not important since you can empty the yeast before racking anyway. It looks like most people are leaving about 6-8 inches for yeast cake.

I'd like to know how people plan to use these things.

Is anyone going to keep the beer in the conical from boil kettle to bottling ?

Are people going to rack (to another conical ?) when primary fermentation is done ?

You can't have a 6" yeast cake at the bottom of the conical all through primary and secondary fermentation. It would have to be removed at least at the end of primary fermentation, if not all the way along.

How often do you think you'll remove yeast from your conical and when ?

Thanks !
 
brewman ! said:
I'd like to know how people plan to use these things.

Is anyone going to keep the beer in the conical from boil kettle to bottling ?

Are people going to rack (to another conical ?) when primary fermentation is done ?

You can't have a 6" yeast cake at the bottom of the conical all through primary and secondary fermentation. It would have to be removed at least at the end of primary fermentation, if not all the way along.

How often do you think you'll remove yeast from your conical and when ?

Thanks !

Brewman! Have you read thru entire thread? Most have a yeast/scrub catcher at bottom of conical!!
 
Brewman! Have you read thru entire thread? Most have a yeast/scrub catcher at bottom of conical!!

Yes I have and I am planning to use a yeast catch at the bottom too.

So you are saying that if you use a yeast catcher (and you drain it) you plan on doing the total fermenation in one conical, ie no racking ?

That is what I plan to do, but then I read about people wondering where to put the racking valve due to a 6" yeast cake and I get to wondering what their plans are.

I also wonder how this compares to commercial breweries because I know they rack from the fermentor to a "bright tank" before bottling. What is that about ?

And how does filtering the beer change any of this ?
 
I usually ferment and secondary in the 30 gallon conical and only remove the yeast catcher once after fermentation. When it's ready to keg/bottle I rack from the top with an autosiphon.
Usually the extra time in conical after fermentation is my clearing/aging time for my beer. I don't filter beer yet:)
 
I usually ferment and secondary in the 30 gallon conical and only remove the yeast catcher once after fermentation. When it's ready to keg/bottle I rack from the top with an autosiphon.
Usually the extra time in conical after fermentation is my clearing/aging time for my beer. I don't filter beer yet:)

I hope to do the same thing, except use a smaller yeast catcher and empty it more often.

When I started brewing 10 years ago, people were fanatical about getting the fermenting wort off trub and off yeast as soon as possible. Back then some people racked fementing wort off trub 24-48 hours after pitching. I kid you not.

I don't know if its the same or not anymore. I'm not sure of the benefit. But I like having equipment that will allow me to (easily) do it if I need to.
 
The way i do it is ferment in conical to kegging. When you open bottom and let off the trub is same as racking beer to me. Thats the reason you get conical so you can concentrate trub to one point and remove it. I usually rack trub off 4 days into fermint then once a week until finished. Then straight into kegs.
 
The way i do it is ferment in conical to kegging. When you open bottom and let off the trub is same as racking beer to me. Thats the reason you get conical so you can concentrate trub to one point and remove it. I usually rack trub off 4 days into fermint then once a week until finished. Then straight into kegs.

So you're getting a clean rack to keg thru the bottom port?
 
The way i do it is ferment in conical to kegging. When you open bottom and let off the trub is same as racking beer to me. Thats the reason you get conical so you can concentrate trub to one point and remove it. I usually rack trub off 4 days into fermint then once a week until finished. Then straight into kegs.

I agree and that is exactly what I want to do.

If you do that, I don't understand why there would be 6" of trub in the bottom of the conical when racking and thus why it would be really important where you put the racking port.
 
I have the 15 gallon and put it just below the 1 gallon mark. Yes that is a $3 bottling bucket spigot (can it get any easier/cheaper?). I also put a spigot on the top so I can attach a blowoff hose. The yeast cake was actually higher than the port but once the trub was dumped it worked perfectly.

2nkswhs.jpg
 
FSR402 said:
So you're getting a clean rack to keg thru the bottom port?

No i got racking port on side sorry forgot to tell you about my rack arm. Yes its about six inches up from bottom. You want it there so you got room for it any lower and it will hit the other side of cone wall.
 
Hey guys, just pulled the trigger on

(2) http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full-drain-inductor.html
(1) http://www.ruralking.com/30-gal-full-drain-inductor.html

I'm debating on what fittings to get. Would I be ok with
(2) http://www.ruralking.com/nipple-male-thread-1-1-2.html
(1) http://www.ruralking.com/nipple-male-thread-2.html

and
(2) http://www.ruralking.com/valve-poly-spin-weld-4.html
(1) http://www.ruralking.com/valve-poly-bolted-virgin-tef-viton-1.html

I was thinking of
http://www.ruralking.com/valve-poly-bolted-virgin-tef-viton.html bt it just looks weird to me..

I thought about going with SS from ebay which is actually cheaper than these but I really need them for this weekend.

The 15 gallon ones say they have a FPT BOSS fitting, what does that mean?

Will I be ok with the fittings I chose?
 
Hey guys, just pulled the trigger on

(2) http://www.ruralking.com/15-gal-full-drain-inductor.html
(1) http://www.ruralking.com/30-gal-full-drain-inductor.html

I'm debating on what fittings to get. Would I be ok with
(2) http://www.ruralking.com/nipple-male-thread-1-1-2.html
(1) http://www.ruralking.com/nipple-male-thread-2.html

and
(2) http://www.ruralking.com/valve-poly-spin-weld-4.html
(1) http://www.ruralking.com/valve-poly-bolted-virgin-tef-viton-1.html

I was thinking of
http://www.ruralking.com/valve-poly-bolted-virgin-tef-viton.html bt it just looks weird to me..

I thought about going with SS from ebay which is actually cheaper than these but I really need them for this weekend.

The 15 gallon ones say they have a FPT BOSS fitting, what does that mean?

Will I be ok with the fittings I chose?

The 15 gallon is female threads with a worm screw to establish a water tight seal with a nipple. The threads are standard, dont worry about BOSS.

I just finished my cart for transporting 10 gallons in this thing from brewstand to fermentation freezer.

6246-just-finished-stand-doing-leak-test-overnight-then-going-paint-stand.jpg

6247-mostly-1-5-banjo-pieces-yeast-catcher-3-abs-plastic-pieces-banjo-quick-disconnects-easy-removal-replacement.jpg


Doing an overnight leak test then I'm gonna paint.
 
I have used the same Banjo valves on mine for 4 years. They will last a lifetime!
 
I have used the same Banjo valves on mine for 4 years. They will last a lifetime!

I bought one of the banjo valves, but it looks like there's a fair amount of space between the body and the valve that wort/yeast/trub could get into as it's rotated. Do you have to disassemble it to clean with each use?
 
I bought one of the banjo valves, but it looks like there's a fair amount of space between the body and the valve that wort/yeast/trub could get into as it's rotated.

+1.

Furthermore, I suspect that the pastic is hard to fully sterilize and has a tendency to hold nasties in various crevaces within the parts.

I want to dump trub on day 3 of fermentation, when the wort is still suceptible to contamination. Thus I am going SS butterfly valves. A few more $$$, but worth it to me.

But maybe I'm wrong.
 
cobolstinks said:
so are these containers air tight? I saw that someone tried to add weather strips to them, did that work?

It works fine and yes its air tight
 
I don't know what is up with the website but the free shipping code will not work. I have read reviews that this website if bunk. However, others on this thread have said that they got their fementor through them with free shipping. Anyone have an idea what's up? I would like to get me one of them. Thanks
 
I don't know what is up with the website but the free shipping code will not work. I have read reviews that this website if bunk. However, others on this thread have said that they got their fementor through them with free shipping. Anyone have an idea what's up? I would like to get me one of them. Thanks

Your the first I know of that has had any problems. Use "FREESHIP" all in capital letters and dont chose another shipping method when checking out.
 
Your the first I know of that has had any problems. Use "FREESHIP" all in capital letters and dont chose another shipping method when checking out.

hmmm....I think the problem is that I chose a shipping option. Now it has the shipping price added everytime. I have deleted the items from the cart and readded them and the shipping is still there. I have used all caps for the shipping code and it says invalid. GRRRRR!!!
 
donk5 said:
hmmm....I think the problem is that I chose a shipping option. Now it has the shipping price added everytime. I have deleted the items from the cart and readded them and the shipping is still there. I have used all caps for the shipping code and it says invalid. GRRRRR!!!

Try clearing your cookies!!!!
 
I don't know what is up with the website but the free shipping code will not work. I have read reviews that this website if bunk. However, others on this thread have said that they got their fementor through them with free shipping. Anyone have an idea what's up? I would like to get me one of them. Thanks

I ordered one today. When I tried to use the FREESHIP code it said it wasn't valid so I called them directly and the lady said for some reason the system doesn't recognize free shipping to the northwest states. She said she could put it in manually and everything was good. However when I received the confirmation email it was the wrong model. She typed in the side mount rather than then full drain but with a quick phone call it was revised. Now I just need to figure exactly which valve setup I am going to go with for the full yeast catcher configurarion????????
 
What is the actual volume of these guys? Looking to ferment half a barrel for a keg fill and want to know what kind of blow off I would be expecting in the 15 gallon model. I'm assuming 15 gallon is the nominal fill and there is some headspace or is it 15 right to the lid?
 
Allclene - any chance on posting the pics along with the 'how to' on how your made your lid air tight? Thanks to all of you who have contributed to this thread - I just spent the last 2 hours pouring through all 40 pages.
 
This is awesome, nothing like jumping on thread 2 years later and seeing all the hard work is done. Thanks everyone, I will be putting one of these together ASAP.
 
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