Stc-1000+

Williams 728
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Hi from Australia, thanks to everyone contributing to the project and this forum in general. I normally visit aussiehomebrewer.com which I believe is owned by Austin now as well.

Anyway...

I accidentally ordered 110v units instead of the 220 required in Australia.

I have flashed them with 1000p however they are useless to me. I will put them on ebay but thought I would check here if anyone is interested first.

PM me if you like...

Sorry if this isn't the appropriate section.

edit: just found this thread... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/stc-100-220v-110v-easy-fix-308389/

As you were... :)
 
augiedoggy said:
Its possible he is just utilizing the the wire he had on hand to the main circuit ... Since if he did wire them the way that looks he would have gotten quite a smoke puff and a blown breaker when the relays closed right?
Click to expand...


I appreciate the vote of confidence, but i wrongly assumed (based on an internet video or two) that the hot from the power supply was linked to the hots for heating and cooling through the board itself (my other controller works that way). Apparently that is not the case, which means no puff of smoke - there was no power to those terminals to create an issue.

I'll fix the wiring in the next week or so and will send an update picture with my (hopefully) working controller.
 
Forgive me, but I seem to remember reading somewhere about a setting that would allow us to shut the heat/cool off early, before we hit the target temperature. My freezer cools so quickly that it shoots 2+ degrees below the target. Kinda frustrating.
 
augiedoggy said:
fyi I just received (and flashed) a correct version a400_p version 1.1 stc1000 from this seller today ($15.50 shipped)...http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Pro-All...398?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cec2e0fa6

He also normally stocks some of them in the US but I ordered the last 3 it seems...I ordered mine friday and received it today! shipped from Texas.... that was fast.

I also noticed that radioshack now carries the arduino locally needed to flash these as well...
Click to expand...

Thanks - I ordered a few more too as spares.
 
banesong said:
Forgive me, but I seem to remember reading somewhere about a setting that would allow us to shut the heat/cool off early, before we hit the target temperature. My freezer cools so quickly that it shoots 2+ degrees below the target. Kinda frustrating.
Click to expand...

If you add a second temp sensor you can use HY2 as a way to shut off the heating or cooling before target temp is reached.

On alpha's github he has the directions posted on how to add the 10K resistor, 3 block terminal etc.

If you need anything in pre-assembled fashion i have dual sensor assembled (in enclosures etc) controllers.
 
smithabusa said:
If you add a second temp sensor you can use HY2 as a way to shut off the heating or cooling before target temp is reached.

On alpha's github he has the directions posted on how to add the 10K resistor, 3 block terminal etc.

If you need anything in pre-assembled fashion i have dual sensor assembled (in enclosures etc) controllers.
Click to expand...

Hrm... okay. I will play with larger hysterysis levels with the primary sensor. I am not quite to the point of adding a second sensor.
 
@banesong, there are a number of things you can experiment with. Probe placement, insulation for the probe. You could try using a smaller hysteresis setting, have the setpoint be a little bit above the desired temperature and rely on compressor delay instead to limit cycling.
Where is your probe located? Taped to the side of the FV?
 
Thought you guys might be interested in this. I used an EL-USB-1 submerged in the beer, a EL-USB-2 sitting next to the fermenter, and the probe from the STC1000+ taped to the side of the better bottle with reflectix and a rag over the end of the probe to insulate from the ambient air. I'm going to see if putting a computer fan in the minifridge helps with controlling the overcooling/heating cycle that seems to be happening. Maybe I need to play with my hy and hd setting also.


ps The loggers started at noon on brew day and I didn't get wort into the fermenter until about 3pm. Wort went in at 56°F at which point I started the temp profile.

lager minifridg.png
 
Does anyone know what the relay type is for the stc1000 I assume they are electromechanical vs solid state .
 
Does that type of relay factor well with very acute hysterisis. Typicaly they run a 10 second cycle on/off included.any idea what the life expectancy for this application.I know it is relative to the heat efficiency just wondering. How often would the relay hit in tight control. I assume it is a DPST type.
 
hboiardt said:
So it appears my version of the STC-1000 doesn't have the programming pins and the board version seems to be FR-4...probably not flashable right? Where is the best place to get these? I got this one on amazon...
Click to expand...

I have them Already flashed with 1.07 if interested
 
hboiardt said:
So it appears my version of the STC-1000 doesn't have the programming pins and the board version seems to be FR-4...probably not flashable right? Where is the best place to get these? I got this one on amazon...
Click to expand...

Just for information, "FR-4" is a generic printed circuit board material type (I used to work in the industry) it's not the model number. FR-4 stands for Flame Retardant class/type 4.

Brew on :mug:
 
smithabusa said:
If you need a sanity check I'm happy to look at yours for you if you want to mail it to me, I've got parts for about ten of these coming in the next day or so also if you happen to need another if yours is damaged or no good. Did you remove the 3.3v pin like in alphas instructions?

I've flashed a couple hundred of them now and the biggest thing is making sure the programming pads are clean of the wax. I have a little wire brush I scuff them, then a tooth brush to clean off. Did you solder to them or just holding?
Click to expand...

@fusa I received your pro mini today, there were a couple of wires mixed around and pin 9 wasn't being used, pin 6 was. I have it aced up and just flashed one of my controllers with it to verify it's working. Will get it sent back to you Monday.

Greg
 
smithabusa said:
@fusa I received your pro mini today, there were a couple of wires mixed around and pin 9 wasn't being used, pin 6 was. I have it aced up and just flashed one of my controllers with it to verify it's working. Will get it sent back to you Monday.

Greg
Click to expand...

Thanks for you help, never thought to check if I had switched pin 6 and 9.
 
jleiii said:
Here's what the one I got from Amazon/Lerway last week looks like. Terminals are the 'good' style, but the board is vastly different - lots more parts on main board at other end of display board, and the printing on the orange transformer is on the side, not the top.
Click to expand...

Was anyone ever able to flash this particular board?
 
Followed ya'lls directions, fixed the wiring, and *thought* it still didn't work. Turns out I shouldn't try and troubleshoot late at night when I have to travel the next morning.

I realized on the plane I was checking voltage across the two hot pins, which would *never* give me a result. The SWMBO was nice enough to test it for me using a lamp and voila - we're in business.

Thanks for the wiring diagram - it made getting this working much, much easier.
 
Great hack alpha, would love to try out your firmware on my next brew, if only I could get hold of the right stc-1000 :confused:
 
wizbrewery said:
Great hack alpha, would love to try out your firmware on my next brew, if only I could get hold of the right stc-1000 :confused:
Click to expand...

A few posts up a few guys have had luck with this ebay seller

http://m.ebay.com/itm/261660479398?_mwBanner=1

I'm unfortunately out of loose controllers for diy kits, waiting on another shipment.

But do have lots of assembled units on the shelf if you were looking for one
 
EDIT: The two I had have been claimed.

Not trying to get into resales or anything but if someone needs to find an unflashed version 1.0 I have a spare confirmed one (maybe two) I could part with for cost and shipping. Still in box and unused. Only opened to confirm they are flashable.
View attachment 1427752123250.jpg
Board version
View attachment 1427752135233.jpg
Programming pads
 
Last edited:
DrunkleJon said:
Not trying to get into resales or anything but if someone needs to find an unflashed version 1.0 I have a spare confirmed one (maybe two) I could part with for cost and shipping. Still in box and unused. Only opened to confirm they are flashable.
View attachment 267720
Board version
View attachment 267721
Programming pads
Click to expand...

I'm interested, sending PM.
 
I apparently ordered 3 of the wrong STC-1000 boards. Can anyone tell me how to know I'm getting the correct one please? I haven't seen anywhere where any ebay sellers show what board version they're selling.
Thanks
 
mutterback said:
I apparently ordered 3 of the wrong STC-1000 boards. Can anyone tell me how to know I'm getting the correct one please? I haven't seen anywhere where any ebay sellers show what board version they're selling.
Thanks
Click to expand...

You order from smithabusa.
 
I've done some cleaning up and renamed usermanual.md to README.md, so github automatically will show it when browsing the source tree.
The usermanual can be found here.
 

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