Sparge Ring Attachment for HLT

[Normis]

All - Posted this in the DIY forum as well, so sorry if you're reading this 2X.

I use a 15 gal kettle as a MLT. I want to use a copper sparge ring, but need to be able to adjust its height for varying grain bed depths. My first thought was to solder an upright to it, and simply lay a bar clamp across the top of the HLT, clamp the upright into the end and adjust height as necessary, but I've spent a lot of time on fabricating my system, so that seems a little too ghetto, even for me.

Question is, is there an adjustable clamp or some better method I can use to attach my sparge ring to the HLT, other than simply laying something across the top of the HLT and attaching the upright to that?

Thanks,

Norm

 

[Sawdustguy]

I don't understand the need for changing the height of the sparge ring. The sole reason for the sparge ring is to prevent your sparge water from being concentrated in one area of your grain bed. I don't think changing the height of the sparge ring over your grain bed will make your sparge any more efficient.

 

[dstar26t]

If you can set the ring on top of the grain bed, it reduces hot side aeration. Grain beds are not a constant height between recipes and batch sizes. The importance of the adjustability is up to the brewer.

 

[Swagman]

Here is what I came up with a few years ago. Its a ring cut from a coil of SS welded to T. Its is adjustable on piece of tubing that is held in place with a thumb screw and ring thats weld to the top of keg. The ring can slide up and down on that tube and held in place also with a thumb screw.

Hope this helps

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman

 

[Homercidal]

Also posted this in the other thread:

McMaster-Carr

My bad. I thought you were using a Cooler MLT with a lid. This might not be applicable.

 

[Bobby_M]

Note, it's not cool to double post across various subforums, most of us find threads using the "new posts" button.

 

[Normis]

Swag - that's a great setup. Thanks for the pics.

 

[Catt22]

Mines cpvc, but you could build it out of copper as easily. I don't see the cross bar as ghetto really. You could make the cross bar out of brass or SS if the aesthetics bother you. This manifold is fully adjustable vertically and most of it is not permanently glued together. It's multi-purpose. I use it for the RIMS return manifold during the mash and then a as a distribution manifold for the sparge. I also use it as a return manifold in the kettle when doing the recirculation whirlpool chill thing.

Recirc for mash

The basic cross bar & cpvc manifold

A dry run with only water checking the newly acquired digital thermometer

IMO, the vertical adjustment feature is especially important if you are using the manifold for mash recirculation. There's probably less heat loss if you keep the discharge at or near the surface rather than sprinkling the water through the air. How important that is will depend a lot on the ambient conditions.

 

[Bobby_M]

I think a cool lid would be 1/4" acrylic sheet cut into a circle. Heat retention and viewing window. Maybe it would fog too much?

 

[Catt22]

I think a cool lid would be 1/4" acrylic sheet cut into a circle. Heat retention and viewing window. Maybe it would fog too much?

Yes, it will fog too much. I tried this very early on in my AG brewing and gave it up immediately. I used an acrylic party platter purchased at a local restaurant supply. I haven't found a need for a lid on my MT as I direct fire it and can easily make up for any heat loss out the top. I might do something different if I were brewing outside in frigid weather or other extreme condition, but no lid at all works for me.

 

[Normis]

Catt - that is bad a**, especially the electric thermo probe. Is there something on the bottom of your cross-bar that tightens around the vertical CPVC tube to control the height, or is the hole in the cross member just tight enough to control height w/o that?