So...You Want to Breed Your Own Hops.

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How has the season been so far for everyone? We've had a lot of rain here, with more on the way it seems. I've had some losses with quite a few seedlings, but I'm hoping that is over with. I'm still working on getting posts erected for my "breeding grounds", but otherwise things are doing okay. I'm working out some computational kinks right now with some software but hopefully the issues will be resolved soon.

Anyone else still having issues with pests or diseases?


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Most of my seedlings are growing well, except for 2 that are weak...not growing much. No diseases. Not that much pests either, except for 1 or 2 caterpillars once in a while...no aphids.

I just install a couple of strings this evening, because 2 seedling outgrow their 8 feet poles and 3 seedling outgrow their 6 feet poles. I didn't expect them to grow that much the first year, but I won't complain about it !! :)
 
How has the season been so far for everyone? We've had a lot of rain here, with more on the way it seems. I've had some losses with quite a few seedlings...

Anyone else still having issues with pests or diseases?
I have lost three out of 3 that germinated so far...
I guess i was away ftom them too long, they grew spindly (insuffucuent light) and just bent over and wilted.


Hope you one of you guys get some pollen....

I have a hallertauer mittelfruh that only produces 5~6 gm a year.
In order to see what I can do, I have been propagating her to have something to expirement on. Those are doing fine. I think I would like to try the "Glen or Glenda" mateing game....

Nagmay?
 
Now tell us more about Mathon Whitebine. I have never heard of that variety.

I thought it might be an interesting mother plant to start breeding from - it's one of the earliest surviving varieties and one of the hops that went on to become Goldings. Originated in Hereford & Worcester ( where I grew up ) sometime in the 1790s. I want to cross it with something shorter with a citrus hint.
 
So, I've been busy lately, as have all of you. Here's something to hold you over. I just finished this yesterday.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1403467312.284903.jpg


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Just some info on those interested in my cultivation techniques.

This year, the two second year plants were removed from the ground and transplanted back into a raised box (3'x3', there were 7 boxes total). First year rhizomes went into the other five boxes, and currently 21 plants inhabit the breeding grounds box. The singular raised boxes, each received 1-2 bags of topsoil and 1-2 bags of compost (3 bags total per box), and that was then worked into the existing soil from each spot. I have watered only a handful of times this season due to the large amount of rainfall this season, and have given a small amount of slow-release fertilizer and once with water-soluble. The breeding grounds received the same fertilizer treatments but the area consisted of 10 bags of each compost and topsoil that was then worked into the existing soil.

I would say that 5 of the 7 boxes will yield this year. One of which is a first year Cascade the is out-competing either of my second year Chinook or Nugget plants.

That said, I have many other first year seedlings that have not received such care (but only the strong survive!) and as I finish up some other projects I will work on repotting these seedlings.
 
I have no surviving seedlings, but the Neomexicana that I grow from rhizomes as well as the Smooth Cone that I grew from cutting are doing well. I will have to do things differently next time. I think my seedlings died from damping off.
 
The weather in Oregon has been pretty optimal this year.

Planted 45 seedlings in the early spring and culled the slowest growing 20%. The rest are doing really well. Most are over 10' and covered in burrs. Its going to be hard to choose which ones to keep. Luckily, I don't have to decide right now.

2 out of the 3 neomexicanus plant that I have turned out to be boys. So, I have to decide soon if I want to fertilize any of the yearlings.
 
I got over 100 seeds to germinate, planted out about 75 and lost another 25. Of the 50 or so I have left about 15 have really taken off and the rest are just puttering along. They've all germinated at different times so it's hard for me to tell right now if it's genetics or age.
 
I have no surviving seedlings, but the Neomexicana that I grow from rhizomes as well as the Smooth Cone that I grew from cutting are doing well. I will have to do things differently next time. I think my seedlings died from damping off.

You may not have done anything wrong. From what I've noticed you would need about 200 or so seeds at a 10 to 15% germination rate, to get maybe 3-4 plants that are hardy.
 
You may not have done anything wrong. From what I've noticed you would need about 200 or so seeds at a 10 to 15% germination rate, to get maybe 3-4 plants that are hardy.

I hope to be able to get a male plant eventually. That will allow me to create my own seeds. If this is a numbers game where I just need more seeds then being able to create my own seeds would be ideal.
 
The weather in Oregon has been pretty optimal this year.

Planted 45 seedlings in the early spring and culled the slowest growing 20%. The rest are doing really well. Most are over 10' and covered in burrs. Its going to be hard to choose which ones to keep. Luckily, I don't have to decide right now.

2 out of the 3 neomexicanus plant that I have turned out to be boys. So, I have to decide soon if I want to fertilize any of the yearlings.

Can you post some pictures of your male Neomexicanus? I'd like see them just for comparison sake.
 

This is precisely the reason why I think it is so important for homebrewers to grow their own and try to breed their own hops. For me it is just as important to create something new that carries with it genetic potential as it is to create something that could be the next designer proprietary goto IPA hop.

A lot of the new commercial varieties as well as newer USDA varieties are triploids which are sterile. That means the genetic line for that hop ends there. These triploids might be good for creating hops that are seedless and with very controlled characteristics, but it is not as good for genetic diversity.
 
This is precisely the reason why I think it is so important for homebrewers to grow their own and try to breed their own hops. For me it is just as important to create something new that carries with it genetic potential as it is to create something that could be the next designer proprietary goto IPA hop.

A lot of the new commercial varieties as well as newer USDA varieties are triploids which are sterile. That means the genetic line for that hop ends there. These triploids might be good for creating hops that are seedless and with very controlled characteristics, but it is not as good for genetic diversity.

A large reason behind this is due to the desirable characteristics being present mostly in the female, but due to the heterogeneous nature of the Humulus genome, breeders use mutagenic agents (e.g. colchicine, a mitotic-spindle inhibitor, which prevents non-disjunction of the chromosomes during mitosis leading to a cell with 2 copies of each and another cell with no copies) that can result in a chromosomal doubling within cells, eventually leading to production of tetraploids. These plants are then crossed with the desired diploid male or female (depending on which gender was treated) and results in plants that are either 2/3 female parent and 1/3 male parent, or vice versa. It's actually quite a versatile way of producing genomic diversity, but again the issue arises when trying to use those resulting triploids for breeding material. The only way to do so, would result in using colchicine again on the triploid to make a hexaploid plant.

Here is where issues begin to arise, there is an inverse relationship between vigor/growth and fertility. As the chromosomal content increases, there is usually a resultant decrease in the fertility of the organism in question. Again, there are always exceptions to such rules, but a majority of species follow this guideline.
 
A large reason behind this is due to the desirable characteristics being present mostly in the female, but due to the heterogeneous nature of the Humulus genome, breeders use mutagenic agents (e.g. colchicine, a mitotic-spindle inhibitor, which prevents non-disjunction of the chromosomes during mitosis leading to a cell with 2 copies of each and another cell with no copies) that can result in a chromosomal doubling within cells, eventually leading to production of tetraploids. These plants are then crossed with the desired diploid male or female (depending on which gender was treated) and results in plants that are either 2/3 female parent and 1/3 male parent, or vice versa. It's actually quite a versatile way of producing genomic diversity, but again the issue arises when trying to use those resulting triploids for breeding material. The only way to do so, would result in using colchicine again on the triploid to make a hexaploid plant.

Here is where issues begin to arise, there is an inverse relationship between vigor/growth and fertility. As the chromosomal content increases, there is usually a resultant decrease in the fertility of the organism in question. Again, there are always exceptions to such rules, but a majority of species follow this guideline.

Right on! Here's some other 'stuff' along those lines: http://www.uvm.edu/extension/cropsoil/wp-content/uploads/USDA-ARS-Hop-Breeding-Program.pdf
 
Well, I'm in...I guess. For those that don't know me, I'm part of the Gorst Valley Hops group out of WI. We've nearly given up on buying rhizomes outside of our farms due to a huge increase of rhizomes that arrive infected with either downy mildew or virus. So we are just about done building greenhouse #1 with plans to expand.

The key is that we've worked with UW-Madison and U of MN researchers to come up with a testing method to be certain everything is clean and that it stays that way.

Anyway, at this point its not so much a breeding program as a propagation program, though as you all know the difference isn't that big of a leap. Our hope is that we will always have "extra" space available so if one of you finds a variety you are ready to push into major production, let me know and we can work something out to mass produce it. Heck, we could even push it around to many of our brewers and see if there is interest in it.

If you want more, there's a bunch of stuff on our website.
 
Well, I'm in...I guess. For those that don't know me, I'm part of the Gorst Valley Hops group out of WI. We've nearly given up on buying rhizomes outside of our farms due to a huge increase of rhizomes that arrive infected with either downy mildew or virus. So we are just about done building greenhouse #1 with plans to expand.



The key is that we've worked with UW-Madison and U of MN researchers to come up with a testing method to be certain everything is clean and that it stays that way.



Anyway, at this point its not so much a breeding program as a propagation program, though as you all know the difference isn't that big of a leap. Our hope is that we will always have "extra" space available so if one of you finds a variety you are ready to push into major production, let me know and we can work something out to mass produce it. Heck, we could even push it around to many of our brewers and see if there is interest in it.



If you want more, there's a bunch of stuff on our website.


I guess our next question to you Dan is, have you found or begun using "wild" hops yet? I know of 'Northern Discovery' as a small, farmer-found variety coming out of Wisconsin, but has anyone else found or used "wild" hops?



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Well, I'm in...I guess. For those that don't know me, I'm part of the Gorst Valley Hops group out of WI. We've nearly given up on buying rhizomes outside of our farms due to a huge increase of rhizomes that arrive infected with either downy mildew or virus. So we are just about done building greenhouse #1 with plans to expand.



The key is that we've worked with UW-Madison and U of MN researchers to come up with a testing method to be certain everything is clean and that it stays that way.



Anyway, at this point its not so much a breeding program as a propagation program, though as you all know the difference isn't that big of a leap. Our hope is that we will always have "extra" space available so if one of you finds a variety you are ready to push into major production, let me know and we can work something out to mass produce it. Heck, we could even push it around to many of our brewers and see if there is interest in it.



If you want more, there's a bunch of stuff on our website.


Also, if you plan on devoting resources to breeding, are you planning on modeling yourselves after GLH?



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I guess our next question to you Dan is, have you found or begun using "wild" hops yet? I know of 'Northern Discovery' as a small, farmer-found variety coming out of Wisconsin, but has anyone else found or used "wild" hops?
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Have we found some...you bet. Have we found any that don't taste/smell like feet or something nastier? No. Assuming they all originated from the 1860's hop boom here, there has been enough time gone by that they all seem to degrade into something that is unappealing from the standpoint of both flavor and harvesting. That's not to say something couldn't be bred out of them in the future.
 
Also, if you plan on devoting resources to breeding, are you planning on modeling yourselves after GLH?
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Not really. While we be selling some down the road, the focus will be the same as the rhizome sales we've done in the past. Higher volumes for small commercial growers. We just don't have the human resources for shipping out a couple of plants here and there.

On the breeding, that is pretty much still in the infancy due to space consideration. To do that right, we will need to set up space away from everything else we have going to make sure some "boys" don't leak out.

The primary focus of this is to get a lot of clean plant material propagating in a hurry to meet the demand of our growers and to propagate a lot of the older/odder varieties that had fallen out of favor but are being requested by our brewer customers.

The key is the "clean" part. Even our most trusted rhizome suppliers have been having trouble finding sufficient rhizomes for us that aren't infested with downy mildew or worse. Last year we ended up torching a field because it started from rhizomes with systemic downy mildew. It sucked.
 
Guys..... I was wondering if just letting the new plants grow naturally without fungicide would be enough to prove that they are resistant to mildew ?!? I guess it is occuring naturally everywhere, no ?!?
 
Guys..... I was wondering if just letting the new plants grow naturally without fungicide would be enough to prove that they are resistant to mildew ?!? I guess it is occuring naturally everywhere, no ?!?


No, not really, though in theory sure.

There are three things needed in order to observe disease incidence.

A susceptible host (or plant under attack), a virulent pathogen, and the environmental factors that allow for infection. If one of those is missing, we do not see disease development.

There are again exceptions as always, but most things that I'm aware of fall under these guidelines.
 
alane1, these photos are for you. It's surviving well, and though I don't think it will flower this season, I'll be able to watch it next year.

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It's currently only ~4 ft tall, as I got an extremely late jump on the season and it took me forever to finish this.

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It's actually quite a versatile way of producing genomic diversity, but again the issue arises when trying to use those resulting triploids for breeding material. The only way to do so, would result in using colchicine again on the triploid to make a hexaploid plant.

Could you extend on this a bit?
Once you have the Hexaploid... what can it be crossed with?
 
Could you extend on this a bit?

Once you have the Hexaploid... what can it be crossed with?


Theoretically speaking...

Diploids, which makes up a majority of the varieties present.

Tetraploids, there are a few but they are mostly owned and used by breeders. Mating with this would produce pentaploids, or so you would guess.

Hexaploids, should also return hexaploids....

In practice, only the use of tetraploids has occurred.

There are a number of Australian breeders who use and implement these techniques, but I've not heard of anyone recovering more than tetraploids.

There is also the case of mixoploidy (think analogous to chimeric DNA) where some tissues (within or between) have different ploidy levels. For instance, you could have one leaf with two different ploidy levels, or two separate bines with separate ploidy. It's just a matter of how severe (effective, in other words) it was treated.

The essence of treating with colchicine isn't necessarily to create a monster plant, it's to create tissue that will hopefully produce flowers that result in germline (gamete) ploidy increases. The result of such a cross being an entire plant with different ploidy.




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Have you begun collecting pollen that you're willing to share?

Yep. Those flowers are now in a bag dropping pollen (hopefully). If it goes well, I should be able to offer it to those on my list soon. You all still have plants in the burr stage, correct?
 
Yep. Those flowers are now in a bag dropping pollen (hopefully). If it goes well, I should be able to offer it to those on my list soon. You all still have plants in the burr stage, correct?


If by burr stage, you mean yet to flower then yes, I do. Side arms are starting, but that's about it for me.



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By burr, I mean the female flowers before the bracts start to form. That's when you need to pollinate.


Apparently my joke didn't get across, but yes, I am aware of the hop floral anatomy. Up for a pollen trade nagmay?


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How easy to ship across the border?

Don't know, I think that it's more difficult to sent plants to the US than to Canada. I have sent seeds that did not make it to their final destination...probably held by Customs. I was able to send seeds, but my last shipment did not make it. On the other hand, I have receive many seeds and even 1 rhizome from the US without the official paperwork (phytosanitary certificate).
 
Apparently my joke didn't get across, but yes, I am aware of the hop floral anatomy. Up for a pollen trade nagmay?

Ha. Didn't look/realize that was you when I responded.

Sure, we should swap pollen. Any tips on collecting and keeping it fresh?
 
Ha. Didn't look/realize that was you when I responded.



Sure, we should swap pollen. Any tips on collecting and keeping it fresh?


Place the harvested flower stems on tinfoil/wax paper out of direct sunlight. Place them so they'll shed onto it. I would wait until the flowers have already opened, as otherwise they may just shrivel before they open. If they've begun to shed then collect immediately.

Storing....fridge? They're still respiring, so you'll want to limit the amount they do. Keep it wrapped-up like a note you received from the cute girl in class with a paper clip or envelope. Or if you have vials, etc.. be creative!


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I have 2 females in burr stage and 2 males with flowers. One of the males only grew 6' and then flowered days after the Summer Solstice. I was wondering if this is a sign of dwarfism, or just early ripening?


Since it's a first-year plant I wouldn't hold to much onto the thought of dwarfism....It was likely receptive to the shortening days.


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I should be able to offer it to those on my list soon. You all still have plants in the burr stage, correct?

I do (and will have for a while)... but am I on your list? or, is this the list you meant? This one and the PB's drop box list is all I recall....

:(
 
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