So...You Want to Breed Your Own Hops.

[PapaBearJay]

Alright, let's talk.

I've spent nearly all of the past several weeks scouring all 134 pages of threads in the Hops Growing section here, and not only have I read a lot of misinformation, but also a lot of repeated topics.

So here I am as a plant scientist/horticulturist to answer your questions.

I'm not going to say I'm the expert, because I'm not, but I have the resources and the knowledge to find the answers and provide them for you. That is to say, if I cannot answer your question outright, I know where to look to find the answer or give you an idea of how you find it.

First off, I'd like to open the 'floor' to discussion on several topics, so feel free to ask your questions here.

Second, I have a passion for hops, or I wouldn't be writing this. I have my reasons, and I'll share if anyone is interested, but I am trying to initiate a breeding program. I am looking for SEEDS or RHIZOMES, from both wild or cultivated origins. I do have several named cultivars that I use for my own homebrewing purposes, but seek to make improvements in areas that I feel are necessary.

Third, with that said, I would be willing to trade other plants/seeds for anyone who can provide seeds or rhizomes. (Though I won't object to donations as well.) I plan on posting the progress of everything I do, right here as it happens. I will gladly receive input from others and would hope that we as a public community can come together and create something that matters to us.

I'd seek cooperation from both public and private organizations, but I don't see ourselves being taken seriously until we have something to show for it. So lets show them what we've got!

Feel free to scoff if you'd like, or better yet, provide some critical feedback. Instead of holding up the line, arguing because you didn't think of it first or because maybe you think I'm late to the game, be thoughtful and supportive in your efforts.

Hope to hear what you're thoughts are and looking forward to receiving your help.

Jay

P.S. In the coming days and weeks I will be slowly updated terminology, concepts and ideas, breeding methodologies, selection criteria, etc. for all to see.

 

[alane1]

I'm new to this so I would like to hear from anyone who's had success germinating from seed. What was your method and germination rate? The instructions that came with the seeds said: soak in water overnight, drain and place in the fridge to cold stratify for 30 days, then plant in 1/16 in. of soil. Does this sound right or are there other methods? I also scuffed some of the seeds with fine grit sandpaper and put them in a separate bag to see if that made any difference.

 

[nagmay]

Last year, I tried a 30day cold stratification. Germination was originally about 10% - though the seeds may have been past their prime. Removing the seed coats prompted a few more to sprout, but it was tricky.

Earlier this year, I used a sterilization soak and 120 day cold stratification. Germination was 50%.

I have a new batch of seeds (thanks to someone on this forum) and decided to do some experimenting. The seeds were prepared with combinations of methods including:

• Removal of the seed husk, or leaving it intact.
• Sterilization in 1% of sodium hypochlorite for 10min
• Cold stratification on filter paper, perlite, or directly in water.
• No stratification.

 

[nagmay]

Regarding the seed "husk" - hops seed naturally have a thin papery coating around the hard, dark seed coat. It can be removed after soaking the seed. See the attached before/after microscope pictures.

Some people that I have talked to recommend removing the husk, stating that it retains water and can be a site for mold to take hold. Others note that the moisture is beneficial and the husk is covered with lupulin - a natural antibacterial.

If nothing else, I hope to find out if the removal of the husk is beneficial.

@PapaBearJay - feel free to correct any of my terminology.

 

[DarkCoder]

I'm new to this so I would like to hear from anyone who's had success germinating from seed. What was your method and germination rate? The instructions that came with the seeds said: soak in water overnight, drain and place in the fridge to cold stratify for 30 days, then plant in 1/16 in. of soil. Does this sound right or are there other methods? I also scuffed some of the seeds with fine grit sandpaper and put them in a separate bag to see if that made any difference.

I have put my sprouting recipe there:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f92/growing-hops-seed-397219/index9.html

 

[PapaBearJay]

I'm new to this so I would like to hear from anyone who's had success germinating from seed. What was your method and germination rate? The instructions that came with the seeds said: soak in water overnight, drain and place in the fridge to cold stratify for 30 days, then plant in 1/16 in. of soil. Does this sound right or are there other methods? I also scuffed some of the seeds with fine grit sandpaper and put them in a separate bag to see if that made any difference.

Currently:

I am performing a natural cold stratification treatment. I have several different lots being tested with this. My plan is to keep the seeds in a cooler for ~8 weeks at approximately 40-44 degrees F. This should be a sufficient amount of time for stratification, provided I maintain soil moisture for the seeds. (You don't want them to dry out.)

Gibberellic acid (GA) is a plant hormone that promotes seed germination (among other biological processes). It is sometimes used to circumvent the stratification process, or reduce the length of time necessary to do this. A separate seed lot was treated for intermittent periods of time, and either placed in the cooler similar to the above paragraph, placed in soil and moved to the mist house, or placed in culture to provide a sterile environment for growth.

Whole seeds (untreated with GA) and excised embryos were also (I'll take pictures and post later.) placed on media containing different combinations of plant hormones in efforts to promote different patterns of growth, some of the media also included supplemental GA concentrations.

So far, I have not had any germination, but again I have done each step in the process to try and determine where improvements might be made.

Everything that you had mentioned above, sounds perfectly fine for your goals and the materials available to you. The reason I have gone as far as I have is due to the materials available to me.

 

[day_trippr]

Umm...what's with the bold font?
Someone angry or what?

Cheers!

 

[PapaBearJay]

Regarding the seed "husk" - hops seed naturally have a thin papery coating around the hard, dark seed coat. It can be removed after soaking the seed. See the attached before/after microscope pictures.

Some people that I have talked to recommend removing the husk, stating that it retains water and can be a site for mold to take hold. Others note that the moisture is beneficial and the husk is covered with lupulin - a natural antibacterial.

If nothing else, I hope to find out if the removal of the husk is beneficial.

@PapaBearJay - feel free to correct any of my terminology.

True and true. This "husk" is a pain, and can be removed through a number of methods.

As for the second point, both are actually the case. In general sterilizing is a more effective way to approach it, as you are then no longer adding the variable of potential mold spores affecting the growth or germination of your other seeds. But, it is also a natural anti-microbial, but that also doesn't mean it's truly effective against every microorganism out there. There is also the likely factor it may not be present in large enough concentrations to be effective either.

 

[PapaBearJay]

Umm...what's with the bold font?
Someone angry or what?

Cheers!

I SIMPLY ENJOY BOLD FONT! SHEESH!

The nerve of some people.

Anyways, back on topic.

 

[Epimetheus]

PapaBearJay, How much enthusiasm is there to create new hops strains? I mean, are there 100 places trying it, or are there a scant dozen including you? Do they concentrate on increasing yield, flavors, or dwarfism for easier cultivation?

 

[B-Hoppy]

With the success of the new 'protected' (non-public) varieties, the race is on to develop additional new varieties like Citra, Summit, Mosaic, Simcoe, Amarillo etc, etc.. One of the major goals is to come up with something with a unique flavor/aroma. Yes, all the attributes you mentioned are looked at during the development, but flavor/aroma seems to be the major one at this point. 10 or more years ago it was all about breeding super alphas, but the tide has seemed to have turned. New, more flavorful hops with unique aromas are one of the easiest variables for brewers to change to create something different and more desirable.

Probably one of the biggest factors driving the development of new varieties is the fact that if a private breeder comes up with the next new 'hot hop', he owns it, meaning that he's in the catbird seat when it comes to supply and demand as he can regulate who grows it, and how much they grow. If the demand goes up, he can plant more acreage and make more $$. If the demand goes down (the prices folks are willing to pay also goes down), he can then reduce acreage to help keep the price up. There are other factors but that's it in a nutshell, from my perspective at least.
http://nwnewsnetwork.org/post/north...ing-market-there-bubble#.Ukxf1KuHats.facebook
http://imbibemagazine.com/New-Hops-Breeds

 

[day_trippr]

LOL! A petard of another...size? kerning?
I dunno, but you've gone through the Looking Glass into the Unreadable Zone.

While you may enjoy your bold fonts, the rest of the known universe associates bolding with emphasis.
And a text wall of emphasis isn't particularly endearing...
...no matter how much fun it was to write it...

Cheers!

 

[nagmay]

Hey people. We're getting off topic here!​

 

[B-Hoppy]

Just seein' if everyone was awake! It's allgood~



Edit:

Never mind, I found where the colors are. We'll save that for next time. Colors are the best!

 

[PapaBearJay]

With the success of the new 'protected' (non-public) varieties, the race is on to develop additional new varieties like Citra, Summit, Mosaic, Simcoe, Amarillo etc, etc.. One of the major goals is to come up with something with a unique flavor/aroma. Yes, all the attributes you mentioned are looked at during the development, but flavor/aroma seems to be the major one at this point. 10 or more years ago it was all about breeding super alphas, but the tide has seemed to have turned. New, more flavorful hops with unique aromas are one of the easiest variables for brewers to change to create something different and more desirable.

Probably one of the biggest factors driving the development of new varieties is the fact that if a private breeder comes up with the next new 'hot hop', he owns it, meaning that he's in the catbird seat when it comes to supply and demand as he can regulate who grows it, and how much they grow. If the demand goes up, he can plant more acreage and make more $$. If the demand goes down (the prices folks are willing to pay also goes down), he can then reduce acreage to help keep the price up. There are other factors but that's it in a nutshell, from my perspective at least.
http://nwnewsnetwork.org/post/north...ing-market-there-bubble#.Ukxf1KuHats.facebook
http://imbibemagazine.com/New-Hops-Breeds

Direction in breeding programs are generally two or three fold. Within the first two years plants are tested for disease resistance and gender. If the plant doesn't make the cut when testing for disease resistance in the first year, they're dropped. The second year vigor and yield are tracked, but understood as not being representative. As well, the growth habit is monitored, as dwarf plants are also currently something of interest.

Over the next few years yield trials, possible compounds and regional trials take place. If it doesn't grow well in many separate (this is usually restricted to within the state, and will sometimes extend outside depending on the restrictions) environments in may not be a viable option.

Brewing traits are generally the last thing selected for, while notes have been taken during the time leading up to brewing trials, if you have a plant that grows like crap, yields like crap, and isn't disease resistant, then it'll never make it to the brew kettle anyways.

The last 2-4 years are generally reserved for brewing trials, stock increase for release, and marketing (this makes sure that people want it).

This is a general overview for most of the public breeding programs that are out there, and though some private companies may be semi-transparent in what they have going on, they might tweak this schedule a bit.

 

[PapaBearJay]

I have put my sprouting recipe there:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f92/growing-hops-seed-397219/index9.html

So, attached are pictures of excised embryos. I have several magenta boxes of these, undamaged, on media.

These were excised for viability testing, so far it doesn't look good, but I'll let them soak for longer before I draw any more conclusions.

 

[BBL_Brewer]

I hope your efforts are successful. Sounds like fun. It sucks having to wait so long for results, but I guess that's all part of the game. I'd be willing to donate some rhizomes if I have anything you want (I doubt it though). I have Cascade, Centennial and CTZ. The CTZ has hermaphoroditic tendencies and almost always puts out quite a few clusters of pollen sacks. Might come in handy if you want to try and make some feminized seeds. Anyway, good luck with the breeding program.

P.S. I like the larger, bold font. It's easier for me to read.

Cheers

 

[DarkCoder]

So, attached are pictures of excised embryos. I have several magenta boxes of these, undamaged, on media.

These were excised for viability testing, so far it doesn't look good, but I'll let them soak for longer before I draw any more conclusions.

On my side, I don't excise them... I only gently squeeze the seed between my fingers after their 2 weeks in the fridge. After that period, the shell is softer due to water intake. Most of the time, the seed will crack open on the "sharp edge" side. If they don't crack, I don't push my luck any further. Then, I put all the seeds (cracked or not) in the slightly wet paper towel on top of my fridge (warm temperature).

 

[PapaBearJay]

On my side, I don't excise them... I only gently squeeze the seed between my fingers after their 2 weeks in the fridge. After that period, the shell is softer due to water intake. Most of the time, the seed will crack open on the "sharp edge" side. If they don't crack, I don't push my luck any further. Then, I put all the seeds (cracked or not) in the slightly wet paper towel on top of my fridge (warm temperature).

Again, let me emphasize that I'm doing each of these steps because I can, not because I have to. Part of the reason why I'm going this far is because I don't know the source of these seeds, and want to make sure the material I am starting with is even viable.

I have other seed lots that I have a more positive outlook on, and so I'm fine with letting them undergo natural stratification methods.

Plus, you guys get to watch. It's only science if it's documented, right?

 

[DarkCoder]

Again, let me emphasize that I'm doing each of these steps because I can, not because I have to. Part of the reason why I'm going this far is because I don't know the source of these seeds, and want to make sure the material I am starting with is even viable.

I have other seed lots that I have a more positive outlook on, and so I'm fine with letting them undergo natural stratification methods.

Plus, you guys get to watch. It's only science if it's documented, right?

I know, just sharing what seems to work best for me for sprouting seeds. I know that you are trying to find THE best way to sprout hop seeds, along with your breeding experiment.

I may not be a plant scientist, but I plan to document as much as I can the growing and natural processes that will occur once all my plants are out in the wild. I plan to be more an observer than an experimenter. As stated on my blog "no human interventions" (...or as little as possible).

 

[PapaBearJay]

So natural selection, in a cultivated setting. Sounds worthwhile!


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[GVH_Dan]

Brewing traits are generally the last thing selected for, while notes have been taken during the time leading up to brewing trials, if you have a plant that grows like crap, yields like crap, and isn't disease resistant, then it'll never make it to the brew kettle anyways.

I can't confirm this but its my suspicion that plants are also selected based on their ability to easily pass through a mechanical harvester. Having grown and harvested, by hand and machine, many varieties over the last 10 years, I can tell you that most of the new varieties (issued since the 70's) will feed through any mechanical picker with little trouble and with an excellent picking efficiency. If you take an old world hop or some of the first generation offspring of a Noble hop and a domestic (US) strain, either the picking losses are huge or your slowing the whole process way down.

For example, Cascades will whistle through just about anything. Take a mature Brewer's Gold and just about any machine will start to choke.

 

[PapaBearJay]

Actually Dan, that is true. That's part of the growth characteristics they measure, they refer to it as pickability. They can use modified versions of spring-pull force meters to measure how much force is required. Just one of many such measurements.


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[day_trippr]

[...]For example, Cascades will whistle through just about anything. Take a mature Brewer's Gold and just about any machine will start to choke.

That's fascinating - is that due to the side-arm length or configuration or thickness or ?

Would Centennial with its short side-arms be easier or harder on a harvester than Cascade - or Chinook - with their rangy side-arms?

Of those three plus Fuggles, after three harvest years I've found the Centennial is way easier to hand-pick than the others. The Chinook are an epic pita to strip...

Cheers!

 

[alane1]

To anyone that's successfully germinated seeds, what was the survival rate once transplanted outside? I know there are a lot of environmental factors, but I'm just to get a rough idea so I know how much space to prepare.

 

[GVH_Dan]

That's fascinating - is that due to the side-arm length or configuration or thickness or ?

Would Centennial with its short side-arms be easier or harder on a harvester than Cascade - or Chinook - with their rangy side-arms?

Its not really side arm length. Part of it is the width of the bine...some just get fatter with more leaf mass. But the bigger part is what PBJ said. Some cones pop right off, others are a pain to pull. Some like nugget get to be a huge mass of leaves that "protect" the cones while some types like to break off in clusters rather than individual cones. Those ones have to get re-picked or somehow broken so you get single cones.

 

[PapaBearJay]

To anyone that's successfully germinated seeds, what was the survival rate once transplanted outside? I know there are a lot of environmental factors, but I'm just to get a rough idea so I know how much space to prepare.

Alane, 100%. My only losses were based on selection. Just make sure that you harden off (acclimate) the plants before doing so, as that will make the transition easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[PapaBearJay]

Its not really side arm length. Part of it is the width of the bine...some just get fatter with more leaf mass. But the bigger part is what PBJ said. Some cones pop right off, others are a pain to pull. Some like nugget get to be a huge mass of leaves that "protect" the cones while some types like to break off in clusters rather than individual cones. Those ones have to get re-picked or somehow broken so you get single cones.

Exactly, ease of cultivation is always something to take into consideration. Another reason why dwarf varieties are being researched and sought after. Safety is always an issue, and 10-12 feet is closer than 16-20 feet.

 

[PapaBearJay]

Does anyone have any Neo1 or Amalia up for trade or donation?

 

[alane1]

Alane, 100%. My only losses were based on selection. Just make sure that you harden off (acclimate) the plants before doing so, as that will make the transition easier.

Thanks Jay, I was planning on germinating warm (70-72f) before moving them to a frost protected cold frame, then planting after last frost. Hopefully I'll be updating with some pics in the coming months. Cheers.

 

[PapaBearJay]

Thanks Jay, I was planning on germinating warm (70-72f) before moving them to a frost protected cold frame, then planting after last frost. Hopefully I'll be updating with some pics in the coming months. Cheers.

I would be more concerned about doing it that way, as we waited to acclimate until it was summer. I would grow them inside (if you can) for a couple months in the sunniest spot you have. Give them a kebob stake to climb if needed, then wait to acclimate after ANY danger of frost.

 

[DarkCoder]

Does anyone have any Neo1 or Amalia up for trade or donation?

If you don't find any traders... they still have Amalia rhizomes there: http://www.homebrewing.org/Hop-Rhizomes-Available-for-Order_c_233.html


Hurry up ! They had Neo1 last week, but not available anymore.


(Found Neo1 and Amalia there... http://www.americanbrewmaster.com/Hop-Rhizomes)

 

[B-Hoppy]

A brief clip on what the industry considers pretty much as 'standard' for bringing a new variety to market:

 

[PapaBearJay]

Thanks B-Hoppy. This highlights really well the points I made earlier about the general schedule of breeding programs.

 

[B-Hoppy]

P.S. I like the larger, bold font. It's easier for me to read.

Cheers

I do too, but my computer has this little button up at the top that I can click on and it makes the print bigger so you can pretty much make it as big as you want. It's simply excellent~

All this technology makes hop breeding a snap!! (just to stay on topic)

ps: sorry day tripper, but once I found the color button, well . . . it was a game changer, like when I got my touch-tone phone a few years ago. But it's all in the name of hop breeding, so I hope you'll accept my apology.

 

[PapaBearJay]

I do too, but my computer has this little button up at the top that I can click on and it makes the print bigger so you can pretty much make it as big as you want. It's simply excellent~



All this technology makes hop breeding a snap!! (just to stay on topic)



ps: sorry day tripper, but once I found the color button, well . . . it was a game changer, like when I got my touch-tone phone a few years ago. But it's all in the name of hop breeding, so I hope you'll accept my apology.

I like that you're persistent, and you've got a cheeky attitude. But you likely knew that already, so maybe just maybe, what you need is someone to say "Hey man, stop trying to hijack my thread."

You don't like my thread, cool, but you're acting like the third wheel hanging out in the back seat.


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[PapaBearJay]

Thanks Jay, I was planning on germinating warm (70-72f) before moving them to a frost protected cold frame, then planting after last frost. Hopefully I'll be updating with some pics in the coming months. Cheers.

So I did a second viability test to confirm the initial findings, which wasn't what I had hoped for. Which is <4% viability...so I've ordered some more seed lots from other vendors, and depending on the quantity that arrives, I'll continue the experiments in the same fashion. I only have a couple months before I need to begin some field work, so I'd really like to have germinated seedlings by then.

 

[B-Hoppy]

Sorry about that.

 

[PapaBearJay]

Sorry about that.

RDWHAHB.

 

[PapaBearJay]

So let's start with some terminology. I think this sometimes can trip people up.


European hops (Humulus lupulus var. lupulus) are dioecious, herbaceous, rhizomatous, climbing, perennials.

Dioecious - This is greek for "two houses". Quite literally, male and female flowers are on separate plants, generally resulting unisexual plants.

Herbaceous - The plants do not form any (living) above ground woody tissues, this resulting growth dies every year. Yes, I understand the crown gets woody, but I am making a distinct difference between the crown and the bines.

Rhizomatous - The plant forms rhizomes (duh!), but let's make the distinction right now, rhizomes ARE NOT roots! Rhizomes are a modified underground stem. A stem, analogous to the green stem growing above ground. A rhizome must FORM both new roots and new shoots (from buds). A root must form new shoots, as it already has roots and contains the ability to uptake water. People, if this doesn't make sense, just ask.

Perennial - To most of us this should be an obvious one. The plant is long-lived, surviving multiple years depending on the overall health. Reports of 50-70 years have recorded.

There are five genetically distinct subvarieties of H. lupulus. They include: var. lupulus, var. neomexicanus, var. lupuloides, var. cordifolius, var. pubescens. These are based on their different morphological characteristics.

There are three species contained within the Humulus genus. The include H. lupulus (as listed above.), H. japonicus synonymous with H. scandens (the annual Japanese hop), and H. yunnanensis (the perennial Chinese hop).