RIP Cooler E-HLT... HELLOOOOOO Bottom Drain Keg E-HLT....

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I just cut the bottom (new top) out of two kegs tonight. I drilled a pilot hole then pounded a finish nail (the kind with no head) into a 2x4. I nailed a second 2x4 onto the side of the first and clamped my angle grinder to the "extension" 2x4 to get it back to center. The boards were oriented long way up. This worked great, and took less than 5 mins per keg to cut the tops out with a 1/8" cutoff wheel. The best part is that the pilot hole I drilled was perfect to braze in the screw for a cabinet pull that will serve as the handle on the cutout, which I made into a lid. I'll do the same to the second keg tomorrow.

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I did mine almost the same way as above. I started by drilling a small pilot hole in the center of the keg. I then put a long wood screw through a small piece of scrap wood and into the pilot hole. I then clamped my angle grinder onto the scrap wood at the desired spot and started cutting. Cutting the kegs took about 2 min each, with another 2 min to clean up the edges. The entire process to set-up the jig and cut 3 kegs took less than 30 min.
 
I am definetely doing this with my HLT and MT. Like has been pointed out one less hole to drill and when stored no ball valves sticking out. Plus two less dip tubes to buy install.

Where did you get the stainless elbow and straight pipe?
 
Zombie thread resurrection:

Finally got around to retrieving the last Sanke from its donor and getting the rest of the parts... The E-HLT is now joined by a bottom drain MLT...

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f.b. shot:
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And yes wildwest540, I finally broke down and went with the 3-piece stainless ball valves, just for you...
:mug:
 
I'm in the middle of a project that is very similar. Great job this keggles look awesome and are very inspirational
 
I like it and my cooler HLT needs an upgrade. Are you putting in a site glass? or do you measure volumes another way. thanks
 
Yeah I ended up getting some welding done and put a site glass on it... Now on of these days I will go ahead and mark off some graduation lines with volumes... LOL
 
I'm contemplating doing this with my MLT Keg and BK Keg (whenever I find one!). Any reason not to do this for an e-keggle? Seems to be to be a great idea. Don't think I'd need this on an HLT though...
 
You don't "NEED" it on the HLT but the huge advantage is never having to reach into the thing to sop up the leftover water that doesn't make it up the siphon/dip tube. In theory, you could run 50 batches on a bottom drain HLT without ever having to look inside.
 
You don't "NEED" it on the HLT but the huge advantage is never having to reach into the thing to sop up the leftover water that doesn't make it up the siphon/dip tube. In theory, you could run 50 batches on a bottom drain HLT without ever having to look inside.

I wasn't even thinking about that! You're right it is def an advantage there too!
 
i wonder how well you could use the bottom (top?) cutout as a fb with a couple more minutes with an angle grinder. i am imagining radial slits for drainage
 
So I thought this is a great use for the Miller threaded style keg. (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/ho...ded-keg-valve-not-retained-spiral-ring-76393/)

I'm not sure if this would be easier or harder than the triclover but the connection would be secure on there.

Any thoughts on this? I have 2 kegs, 1 normal ring clip and one miller style. I am debating which one to use for the HLT Mash/Lauter tun and which one for the boil kettle.
 
How much liquid does it take to cover the element? I'm thinking about doing this to make a BIAB e-Keggle, however I'm worried that I won't have enough liquid above the element to cover the grains for a 5 gallon batch.
 
In my e-keggle it takes approx. 3-3.5 gallons to submerge my element. I have a brewhardware.com triclover element spud soldered as low as possible on mine. With your grain bag and enough water for a 5 gallon batch you shouldn't have any problems. I have done grain steeping with partial extract batches before without any problems.
 
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