Question for you veterans

[GMoney]

My first batch, and first post here.

I don't know anyone in person who does this, so I am relying on you guys! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

My first Brew was last Saturday. I did a kit for an Extra Pale Ale. Brew went great. I used a Wyeast to innoculate and put into a Glass Carboy w/airlock. My OG was right on target for the recipe (1.045).

The wort started to ferment within about 8 hours and kept a two inch foamy head for 2-3 days, then it fell back. The airlock was originally going crazy, and the smell was exactly what I wanted!

Now here is the question. The airlock has slowed to once every 2-3 minutes and there is no more foam on top. There is a very small amount of stuff on top, but not foamy. The bottom of the carboy has a deposit of stuff and the wort is starting to get more clear.

I know I am supposed to test the gravity, but I can't find anywhere whether or not I am supposed to remove the airlock and bung? I don't want to open it if I am not supposed to and so far I have avoided tampering (I am of course very excited about this).

Should I get a sample, or just let it work?

THe box says give it 2 weeks or until fermentation is done before moving to secondary fermentation(another glass carboy).

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[NorCalAngler]

If you're going to move it to secondary then you can take a sample now and then rack to the secondary. If you're going to leave it in primary then I would leave it alone until it's had at least two weeks in primary and then test it. If it is at the recommended final gravity then bottle and enjoy after three weeks of conditioning.

And to answer your question, removing the bung/airlock isn't a big deal. Make sure whatever you grab the sample with is sanitized and you'll be fine.

 

[malkore]

its ok to remove the airlock/bung/cap for taking gravity samples. as long as you are sanitizing equipment, this poses no major risk for infection or contamination.

however, you could also simply wait 2-3 weeks in primary, then rack/keg/bottle.
I myself like to do a good 10-14 days in primary, then a week or 2 in secondary to clear, then i keg or bottle. I just get a lot less yeast stirred up this way, as I always end up sucking some up during the first racking.

for sanitizing, look for star-san, or if you can't find it, iodiphor. you want an easy, no-rinse sanitizer that doesn't cost a lot. star-san is a favorite.

 

[wyzazz]

I leave mine sit for at least 3 weeks in the primary fermenter before taking a gravity reading. To take the gravity reading you'll need to sanitize your thief or a turkey baster, or if you're using a bucket you can even use a ladle. Put that sample in to your test jar, and float your hydrometer in it. I usually give it a quick spin to dislodge any CO2 bubbles or gunk that sticks, then take my reading and adjust for temperature.

Re-sanitize your bung/airlock/lid and stick it back on.

Easy as pie!

 

[david_42]

We realize that the last thing you want to do is wait, but it is also the best thing you can do for your beer.

 

[GMoney]

Guys,

I can't thank you all enough. Everyone on hereis so nice. I may have to upgrade to the paid subscription.

Thanks for your answers. I just didn't know ifit would mess anything up to have fresh air enter the carboy. It hasn't gotten any since I first put the bung and airlock on.

NorCal: I am actualy using the Northern Brewer Extra Pale Ale. Any special tips?

 

[BBKing]

My personal opinions about gravity (besides the OG) is: SKIP IT.

Make sure its on target then forget about it. Beer is beer. Let it roll for as long as you can wait (at least 2 weeks!) bottle then wait again.

Maybe its just me, but I dont care what ABV my beer is.

 

[bricklayer38]

This is good info for me too, I am new to this hobby and have made 2 batches. How do I start a thread on this forum - I can't find it?

 

[pcollins]

I'm with BBKing on this. I don't measure before racking and I don't measure at bottling either. The beer WILL look after itself. Alcohol will be produced and CO2 will as well.

I saw another post yesterday from a while ago where somebody had recommended the 1, 2, 3 process for brewing: 1 week in primary, 2 weeks in secondary, 3 weeks in the bottle and you're good to go. Frankly, I can never wait the three weeks in the bottle but that's just me. Aside from me causing problems I think this 1, 2, 3, guideline is an excellent one for starters.

For a straight up pale ale like you're brewing I think you're pretty safe to have a week in primary and then rack to secondary. Your krausen (foaming) has died down and the fermentation has slowed enough that there should be no problem.

Rack away, my friend, and enjoy a beer while you're doing it!

 

[beerthirty]

david said it best. your beer will only get better with a little time. We have all found this out the hard way. What was a good beer turns out to be a great beer by the time there are only two left. Relax and brew another batch while you wait for the first.

 

[passedpawn]

Go ahead and bottle. Most ale fermentations finish within 1 week. A pale ale will get better in the bottle over a period of 3 weeks, at which time it will be near at its best.

Now, I hunker down and prepare for the inevitable crucifixion.

 

[Reelale]

Revy's gonna hear about all of this blasphemy and he's gonna be pissed!
You really should use a hydrometer. Stable gravity readings are the only way to reliably tell if fermentation is complete. The rest is just guessing. If you want to do it right, use the right tools and process.

 

[NorCalAngler]

NorCal: I am actualy using the Northern Brewer Extra Pale Ale. Any special tips?

My only tip is since this is your first beer I encourage you to try one bottle a week after bottling so you can taste the conditioning process and understand what people mean when they say "green" beer. Your first one may be mostly foam and much more bitter than you expect. The second week it will be a little more mellow and by the third week you should have a great beer.

Make sure you chill your beer for at least 24 hours prior to opening, preferably 48.

 

[Superkabuto]

My personal opinions about gravity (besides the OG) is: SKIP IT.

Make sure its on target then forget about it. Beer is beer. Let it roll for as long as you can wait (at least 2 weeks!) bottle then wait again.

Maybe its just me, but I dont care what ABV my beer is.

Yes, but if you're not absolutely sure that fermentation is done when you bottle, you could possibly get bottle bombs, right?

 

[Wellshooter]

Revy's gonna hear about all of this blasphemy and he's gonna be pissed!
You really should use a hydrometer. Stable gravity readings are the only way to reliably tell if fermentation is complete. The rest is just guessing. If you want to do it right, use the right tools and process.

I agree with using a hydrometer, but if you have reached your target FG or below, whats the sense in waiting and taking multiple readings.

 

[Reelale]

That's just it, you take the readings to make sure you have reached the final gravity of the particular batch. Many things affect the difference between a target FG and an actual FG, grain bill, fermentables, volumes, attenuation, etc. You can ballpark it by guessing or you can use the tool specifically designed to measure it to the gnat's ass.