I received the Lucky Envelope Helles yesterday. It is in fact the W-34/70 that is included and I plan on using it.
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I received the Lucky Envelope Helles yesterday. It is in fact the W-34/70 that is included and I plan on using it.
Wow!! I will be excited to try that pack. I hope it tastes as good as it sounds!! Let us know how it turns out.
That sounds really interesting, though Im a bit reticent given issues with the darker beer pacs ripping mid-brew on folks. Im hoping theyve figured that out!
I want to give a shout out for the Black Betty Porter recipe - it's absolutely fantastic. Also I strongly recommend letting it age for a month or so. When it's fresh it's still good but it tastes a bit "extracty", like the flavors are a little artificial with some excess licorice notes. A month later and it's really come together very nicely.
Now that I think about it I probably drank the Dragonstooth a little too green as well....
Now that I think about it I probably drank the Dragonstooth a little too green as well....
Links for everything I used are listed at the end of the post.
Sorry for the pic heavy post, I have read where people have converted their Mini-regulators but have not seen it. So here is what I have done for my portable setup. It works with my pico keg as well as any other ball lock keg. I have not tried it with a 5 gallon yet but I believe there should be enough co2 in the bottle to do the whole keg. I have used it on my Pico and my Torpedo 3gallon kegs with no issues. "For the math folks a 20 ounce CO2 paintball tank has a volume of 51 cubic inches * 37% full-fill = 18.8 cubic inches of liquid * 1:553 expansion ratio = 10435 cubic inches of gas / 1728 cubic inches per cubic feet = 6 cubic feet of gas. That is not my calculation it was pulled from the net on another discussion. Now on with the show....
I converted my mini-regulator to accept paintball tanks. Here is some pics and what I used to do this.
First you have to remove the barb fitting that came with the regulator. This requires a 5/32 Hex key fitted into the bard.
Once it has been removed you will use a new fitting to convert it to the ball lock connector. Links for everything I used is at the end. Here is a pic of all the items and the regulator reassembled.
Replace the regulator barb with the Mini-Regulator check valve. You will have to remove the check valve insert. This allows the regulator to blow off the excess gas if it is over pressure or if you are lowering the pressure. If you do not remove the check valve inside you will not be able to lower the pressure. Once that is done you then thread on the ball lock connector. Once you have the regulator converted to fit the ball lock connector you will install the Interstate Pneumatics adapter to the co2 input. Then install the quick adapter from the Paintball Coiled remote line. This will convert the standard 16g co2 to standard size paintball tank. You can do this with the 74g regulator as well but you will have to use a different pneumatic adapter. There are also adapters to connect a standard regulator to a paintball tank. The quick connect works great for removing the tank without removing the regulator from the keg. Make sure to shutoff the tank and release the pressure on the line before disconnecting the quick connect. Once everything is installed you should be ready to use the setup. Here are some pics of my finished product.
Size comparison to the Pico S, on top and beside.
The bracket that is holding the tank on the side of the keg is something I made at work. Quick and nasty.
Mini Regulator check valve
Interstate Pneumatics adapter
Paintball Coiled Remote w/ shutoff valve
20oz co2 tank
Now the low down and dirty.... I converted this to show how it is done and what it would cost. It ran me 65 dollars for everything needed to convert this over. That being said you can purchase a new regulator already setup for paintball tanks for around the same price. I enjoyed doing this and do use it now but I also have one that was purchased to do the same thing minus the paintball tank.
Paintball Tank Regulator
Ultimate Regulator
Sorry for the pic heavy post, I have read where people have converted their Mini-regulators but have not seen it. So here is what I have done for my portable setup. It works with my pico keg as well as any other ball lock keg. I have not tried it with a 5 gallon yet but I believe there should be enough co2 in the bottle to do the whole keg. I have used it on my Pico and my Torpedo 3gallon kegs with no issues. "For the math folks a 20 ounce CO2 paintball tank has a volume of 51 cubic inches * 37% full-fill = 18.8 cubic inches of liquid * 1:553 expansion ratio = 10435 cubic inches of gas / 1728 cubic inches per cubic feet = 6 cubic feet of gas. That is not my calculation it was pulled from the net on another discussion. Now on with the show....
I converted my mini-regulator to accept paintball tanks. Here is some pics and what I used to do this.
First you have to remove the barb fitting that came with the regulator. This requires a 5/32 Hex key fitted into the bard.
Once it has been removed you will use a new fitting to convert it to the ball lock connector. Links for everything I used is at the end. Here is a pic of all the items and the regulator reassembled.
Replace the regulator barb with the Mini-Regulator check valve. You will have to remove the check valve insert. This allows the regulator to blow off the excess gas if it is over pressure or if you are lowering the pressure. If you do not remove the check valve inside you will not be able to lower the pressure. Once that is done you then thread on the ball lock connector. Once you have the regulator converted to fit the ball lock connector you will install the Interstate Pneumatics adapter to the co2 input. Then install the quick adapter from the Paintball Coiled remote line. This will convert the standard 16g co2 to standard size paintball tank. You can do this with the 74g regulator as well but you will have to use a different pneumatic adapter. There are also adapters to connect a standard regulator to a paintball tank. The quick connect works great for removing the tank without removing the regulator from the keg. Make sure to shutoff the tank and release the pressure on the line before disconnecting the quick connect. Once everything is installed you should be ready to use the setup. Here are some pics of my finished product.
Size comparison to the Pico S, on top and beside.
The bracket that is holding the tank on the side of the keg is something I made at work. Quick and nasty.
Mini Regulator check valve
Interstate Pneumatics adapter
Paintball Coiled Remote w/ shutoff valve
20oz co2 tank
Now the low down and dirty.... I converted this to show how it is done and what it would cost. It ran me 65 dollars for everything needed to convert this over. That being said you can purchase a new regulator already setup for paintball tanks for around the same price. I enjoyed doing this and do use it now but I also have one that was purchased to do the same thing minus the paintball tank.
Paintball Tank Regulator
Ultimate Regulator
Last edited by a moderator:
macgyuver
I am thinking of removing the barb from the mini regulator from PicoBrew. How hard was it to remove? I have read that it is extremely difficult and required a vice to hold the regulator body. Was that your experience?
I am thinking of removing the barb from the mini regulator from PicoBrew. How hard was it to remove? I have read that it is extremely difficult and required a vice to hold the regulator body. Was that your experience?
It is in there very well. I did not have to use a vice to hold the regulator though. I was able to lay it on my workbench, use a multi-tool screw driver as leverage off the hex key, and hold the regulator with my hand. This setup worked well for me. They used pipe dope instead of tape to seal the barb in that is what makes it hard to get out.
There is no reason darker beer paks should be any different from lighter ones.
I agree with you Denny, and it was probably just coincidence, but when I brewed the Cocoa Vanilla Porter, the pack "lid" came unglued at the back. It didn't lose enough grain to clog the valve, but it was pretty full of junk after brewing. I don't recall whether the Not-Yeti packs were splitting or coming unglued. That new pack sounds delicious!
20% off the entire store now with VETERANSDAY20, this includes machines and brew equipment. Not just on the paks.
Thank you to all our Vets out there. I am taking mine out to dinner tonight to her favorite restaurant.
:rockin:
Thank you to all our Vets out there. I am taking mine out to dinner tonight to her favorite restaurant.
:rockin:I tried a hex key on mine and it just stripped it out, so I had to use vice grips on it. A vice would have been nice, but I just used my hands, eventually it gave-way.
That sucks but guess it doesn't really matter, once you convert you are not going back to the bung barb...
It's not that I don't believe you, but it makes no sense. I have 2 beta BVIP kits to brew in the next few days, so we'll see.
I’m sure you will be fine, I’m not saying they all are a bust. When you see a picture of a step filter full of wort, or wort spilled on the ground, most of the time it’s a pitch black beer. I’ve had two fail on me out of 50 brews, Yeti and a Porter.
I had it happen with the high heeled imperial IPA. First one after 16 brews. My guess would be its more likely the higher OG beers like Yeti. Those have far more grain and put more pressure on the pak. pico will figure it out they always do.
High Heel was a known issue that has already been addressed. They engraved the boat image too deep. That one had a 100% failure rate and they took it off the marketplace for a while. I didn’t count that one everyone’s failed.
Thats weird I received it on Wednesday and brewed it yesterday. With 100 percent failure rate you would think they wouldn't have sent it to me just a couple of days ago. So i guess we can assume it hasnt been addressed
A new one is on the way so hopefully its fixed. It did split on the engraving as you stated in your post. I have brewed yeti and dragons tooth with no issues. It must be hit or miss on some of these paks. I was suggesting the high alcohol content because both of these are imperial IPA's so very high OG. Just a guess, it makes no sense that it could be from darker grains.
So there’s two different issues. High Heel is absolutely a QC issue with the engraving of the boat, they have acknowledged it on Facebook. It blows my mind they are still shipping it with that logo. The dark grain issue makes total sense when you have it happen to you and you understand how the machine works. The darks aren’t failing like your high heel split, they are failed brews clogging up the machine and filling the step filter.
*Failure of the brew*
Like I said when it happens to you then you will understand. These aren’t my pictures but I could pull dozens more just like them. It’s almost always a dark beer, and if you pay attention you will see tiny bits of roasted grain all in the step filter, your inline filter, and sometimes bulkhead valve. The roasted grain is making its way out of the pack and clogging things up. If the pack sits in the wort long enough it will eventually split and tear, but the root cause is the roasted grain escaping. Roasted grains tend to crush and shatter like coffee grounds, the dark beers tend to foam more, maybe they float more and are escaping the overflow holes, whatever reason it is more of a chance of a failed brew with a dark beer. Nobody said it’s all the time or a majority of the time, but it’s enough of an issue to pay more attention when brewing one unless you want a huge mess.
Like I said when it happens to you then you will understand. These aren’t my pictures but I could pull dozens more just like them. It’s almost always a dark beer, and if you pay attention you will see tiny bits of roasted grain all in the step filter, your inline filter, and sometimes bulkhead valve. The roasted grain is making its way out of the pack and clogging things up. If the pack sits in the wort long enough it will eventually split and tear, but the root cause is the roasted grain escaping. Roasted grains tend to crush and shatter like coffee grounds, the dark beers tend to foam more, maybe they float more and are escaping the overflow holes, whatever reason it is more of a chance of a failed brew with a dark beer. Nobody said it’s all the time or a majority of the time, but it’s enough of an issue to pay more attention when brewing one unless you want a huge mess.
Looking for some suggestions on Pico Saisons. I've tried two now (belle of the ball and barbarian saison blanc). Both turned out very tasty, but they are coming out more like Weiss/Wit beers and less like saison. Very laid back, lots of banana. This could be true to the recipe but I'm wondering what I could do to get more funky peppery notes in there. Any suggestions for different yeast strains? Should I be letting them age for a while?
The Belle saison yeast they ship is pretty darn good. Two things, your not using fast fermentation for a saison are you? The pressure fermentation suppresses ester creation, which you want with a saison. Also, you want to ferment it warmer than other ales. I use it at household temps of low 70s with an airlock with great results. Belle of the Ball is one of my favorite brews in the marketplace.
I agree! Brewing a porter as we speak, not leaving the kitchen until the mash is over lol.
You could use a tub to set you pico in and a flood detector to alarm if there is an overflow. Shouldnt run to much to setup. This is of course for those that brew mostly heavy or dark paks. I have a remote flood detector on my water heater in case it springs a leak. Sends notifications to my phone. Something like that would get back to the no attention brewing.
Jrb, no - saison is the only style I am using the regular airlock for. I'm fermenting at straight room temp, although this time of year that's only around 70F.
Do you let Belle age for a little while before tapping? I think Belle is probably a little better than the Barbarian but they are both pretty darned good!
Do you let Belle age for a little while before tapping? I think Belle is probably a little better than the Barbarian but they are both pretty darned good!
Ya a lot of people are running their Pico inside a bus tub or something similar. All it takes is one mess. I havent bothered with that yet, I just make sure to be around when the dark beers are mashing.
Sounds like your doing it right. Ive seen some people crank up saisons close to 80 with a brew belt, they really want that Belgian funkiness. Im pretty happy with results so far, maybe I will try one hotter next time. I have a closet that gets warm should be a good test. Honestly Ive done saisons like most other brews timewise. Its usually about 3-4 weeks after brew that Im tapping them.
Thats a really good idea. Fermentation raises the temp a few degrees on its own, that should help keep it higher.
Here's a really interesting Saison fermentation guide:
https://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/guide-saisons-and-saison-yeasts
In addition to some recommended yeast strains, they suggest a cool ferment (65F) for 3 days and then let it come up naturally to warm.
There is a mention that the Belle Saison is very reliable but weak on those spicy Saison flavors. Wyeast 3711 and 3724 are often recommended for easy to use with stronger flavor profiles.
https://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/guide-saisons-and-saison-yeasts
In addition to some recommended yeast strains, they suggest a cool ferment (65F) for 3 days and then let it come up naturally to warm.
There is a mention that the Belle Saison is very reliable but weak on those spicy Saison flavors. Wyeast 3711 and 3724 are often recommended for easy to use with stronger flavor profiles.
Agreed. If that was the case, we would see it on other situations with other brewing setups.
And if you use the Dupont saison yeast, open fermentation is the key to preventing a stuck fermentation.
https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-18-saison-under-pressure
https://www.experimentalbrew.com/ex...airlock-vs-open-ferment-does-it-prevent-stall
I'd remove the keg lid and put foil over the opening. IN fact, since Drew ferments in 10 gal. kegs, that's exactly what he does.
thelevin8r
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Hello, this is my first forum post. I received a Pico C two days ago and ordered two packs yesterday, just need to be patient now. I used to brew using extracts over 10 years ago. Sold all that equipment, kegs, refrigerator and all when life got too busy for all that. The Pico is going to be so much more enjoyable for so many reasons and I am really excited to home brew again using something to make it so much easier and more exacting, plus all grain! I've been spending a lot of time reading and searching through here and have learned a lot. Something that I can't find an answer on, though I'm sure it's been talked about a lot, is keeping the mini serving keg of beer fresh and carbed while drinking it. For me it will take a few weeks to drink it all ( I used to drink way more beer, and a 5 gallon keg was great). I see that Picobrew sells a mini regulator that has a fitting that goes into the top of the serving keg, but do you have to keep it there after dispensing a glass? What if you have more then one mini keg full at a time? I read that people are not fans of these, but I think I'd be fine with them if I can just figure this one thing out. Thanks for any advise!
Levin
Levin
I have used the serving keg a few times and it does work but really becomes a hassle after some time with them. The regulator should stay in place if you are keeping the beer for anytime due to oxygen getting in. I ran my regulator at 2-3 psi and still had some cups foam bomb me. There is also no good way to clean them after you use them.
That being said most of us have gone to using the Pico S/Pro corny style kegs for serving. These work great and are easily cleaned. I have converted the regulator I got with my S to fit ball lock connectors and have never looked back. There is a post on that here in this thread.
Serving kegs are doable and I have had beer in them for 2 weeks with no issues. You will get roughly 16 +/- cups from a normal run. Hope you enjoy I know I do, and welcome to the community!
Lbarouf
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Any recommended keg size to brew 2 batches? I was thinking of the 3 gal AMCYL.
Would it be best to ferment separately then combine, or combine the wort in 1 then ferment? I'm leaning towards the first option because I then don't have to buy 2 larger kegs for racking. Any recommendations appreciated.
Would it be best to ferment separately then combine, or combine the wort in 1 then ferment? I'm leaning towards the first option because I then don't have to buy 2 larger kegs for racking. Any recommendations appreciated.
You need a 5 gallon keg to ferment a double batch, and at least 3 gallon to serve it. I ferment them seperatley in the Pico brew keg then combine for serving. Way less cleaning and sanitation. If you really must combine I would just use a better bottle or bucket, cheaper and easier.
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