Orval

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

z-bob

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Messages
4,281
Reaction score
2,304
Location
Rochester, MN
I bought a bottle last week (also a bottle of Rochefort 10) because I just thought I should try them, so when I drink an American "Belgian" beer I have something to compare to. I had the Rochefort a few days ago (let it warm up just a bit, then poured it into a heavy glass chalice that I rinsed with hot water first) It was good, almost more like drinking wine than beer; a lower ABV port, sorta. I may have the Orval tonight. Not sure what to expect. This one was bottled about a year and a half ago, so the brett should be well-developed. Will it smell and taste like cherries and pineapple, or wet dog and sweaty horse? Maybe all of the above. ;)

Should I save the dregs and culture them, or will doing so contaminate my entire brewery and I'll never brew a clean beer again? I thought I'd wipe the mouth of the bottle off with some rubbing alcohol and add about 200 ml of DME wort directly to the bottle and see what I get. Assuming I like the Orval, brew a simple English pale ale, but pitch T-58 yeast, then add the brett culture to the secondary. (yes, I've gone back to using a secondary, then I bottle directly from that)

I think I'm gonna go for it, but consider that carboy, hose, and bottling wand contaminated from then on.
 
Assuming I like the Orval, brew a simple English pale ale, but pitch T-58 yeast, then add the brett culture to the secondary. (yes, I've gone back to using a secondary, then I bottle directly from that)

FWIW, Orval adds Brett at bottling. They may also add it in secondary. I've seen claims of both they do and they don't on that one.

For the clean yeast, T-58 might be fine. (I don't know, I don't use it.) But the Orval clean strain is available commercially: WLP510.
 
Last edited:
FWIW, Orval adds Brett at bottling. They may also add it in secondary. I've seen claims of both they do and they don't on that one.

For the clean yeast, T-58 might be fine. (I don't know, I don't use it.) But the Orval clean strain is available commercially: WLP510.

I chose T-58 not because it's clean, but because it's a Belgian yeast that doesn't attenuate as high as most. (will leave more sugars for the bugs to eat) If my starter doesn't take, I may order some WLP510. Thanks!

Wait, I just realized what you said. WLP510 is the primary yeast. Got it now :)
 
1. Rack 10l of Imperial Stout to a carboy.
2. Add dregs of a single bottle of Orval (no starter required).
3. 8-12 months later, bottle with priming sugar and some fresh yeast.
4. Wonder why you would ever want to brew a beer without brett.
 
You can just add dregs at bottling into individual bottles. Not much more effort and no cross contamination. Works quite well for Orval type beers.

1.) Drink Orval

2.) Run some beer into a fresh bottle ( big ones are best ).

3.) swirl it all up and dose into each bottle.
4.) Bottle using cheap clear hose ( then discard )

5.) wait 3 months. Enjoy!

I like champagne bottles for this, and a saison yeast that will get to 1.004 before I bottle.
 
1. Rack 10l of Imperial Stout to a carboy.
2. Add dregs of a single bottle of Orval (no starter required).
3. 8-12 months later, bottle with priming sugar and some fresh yeast.
4. Wonder why you would ever want to brew a beer without brett.
You can bottle it once the gravity is stabilized, and let it develop in the bottle, that's a similar approach to the Orval method but without risking bottle bombs, if you brew the same beer, you know when it's ready to add brett and bottle, but if you don't know that beer so well, I wouldn't risk it haha
 
Back
Top