beervoid
Hophead & Pellet Rubber
Which maltster and how long till the last drop?View attachment 631900
80% Rahr 2-row
20% White wheat malt
Single hop Nelson beer.
Stayed hazy to the last drop.
Clear before dry hopping.
Dry hopping schedule?
Which maltster and how long till the last drop?View attachment 631900
80% Rahr 2-row
20% White wheat malt
Single hop Nelson beer.
Stayed hazy to the last drop.
Clear before dry hopping.
Which maltster and how long till the last drop?
Dry hopping schedule?
Thanks for the heads up!Galaxy is back in stock at Yakima Valley. 155 pounders available right now
I think the citra one will get much better in time. 5oz cryo is like 10 oz pellets. Keep me posted on how that beer conditionsI finally have some information from my first cold crash beers. I dropped both to 60F for 2 days and then dry hopped with a headspace purge (in kegs with 4.5G total volume) and then let rest two days and just racked to serving kegs tonight after 2 days of 38F. One had 5 oz galaxy and 1 oz ctz; one had 5 oz citra cryo and 1 oz ctz. the galaxy version is super awesome. the citra version is too floral and geraniol-like for me but is ok. i either overdid the dryhop with the citra one or it just has too much geraniol for a 60F dry hop. I do like that the cold crash beer is drinkable instantaneously. It doesn't have much yeast at all in it, just hoppiness. However, I really like the flavor of dry hops in contact with active yeast. I think next time I'll try adding some prefermentation or biotransformation dry hops AND a smaller amount of soft crash dry hops.... If I could get the flavor of the biotransformation beer without the yeast I'd be set.
Definitely. The Aussie hops are notorious for it, some American varieties. It’s not necessarily directly related to oil content although they do tend to coincide. Have you used Galaxy before?
My guess is that the bio transform flavor will come anyway with time. No need to dry hop during active. Just give it some time to mellow out, especially galaxy needs time. Please keep us posted how it develops!I finally have some information from my first cold crash beers. I dropped both to 60F for 2 days and then dry hopped with a headspace purge (in kegs with 4.5G total volume) and then let rest two days and just racked to serving kegs tonight after 2 days of 38F. One had 5 oz galaxy and 1 oz ctz; one had 5 oz citra cryo and 1 oz ctz. the galaxy version is super awesome. the citra version is too floral and geraniol-like for me but is ok. i either overdid the dryhop with the citra one or it just has too much geraniol for a 60F dry hop. I do like that the cold crash beer is drinkable instantaneously. It doesn't have much yeast at all in it, just hoppiness. However, I really like the flavor of dry hops in contact with active yeast. I think next time I'll try adding some prefermentation or biotransformation dry hops AND a smaller amount of soft crash dry hops.... If I could get the flavor of the biotransformation beer without the yeast I'd be set.
Repost I think you missed it.I had a lot of luck with malted oats, just hated the lack of head retention with it.
This is the first time I’ve used malted wheat at 15 % or more of a NEIPA
Repost I think you missed it.
Did u use any other protein rich grains?
It's funny cause Janish's book and the research there in says you get the most stable haze with malted wheat at 15%
Which brand and type of malted wheat did you use?
How much % oats do u usually add?
Also how did you dry hop?
Only 2 row, small amount of carapils and briess red wheat. Soft crash 36 hours at 48ish to drop yeast then allowed the beer to rise back to room temp. dryhoped 4 days before kegging and again with 36 hours to kegging. 2.5 ounces in each with 1 oz of both dryhops being cryoRepost I think you missed it.
Did u use any other protein rich grains?
It's funny cause Janish's book and the research there in says you get the most stable haze with malted wheat at 15%
Which brand and type of malted wheat did you use?
How much % oats do u usually add?
Also how did you dry hop?
briess red wheat. Soft crash 36 hours at 48ish to drop yeast then allowed the beer to rise back to room temp. dryhoped 4 days before kegging and again with 36 hours to kegging. 2.5 ounces in each with 1 oz of both dryhops being cryo
I make an Other Half Oat Cream Clone and malted oats are 35% of the bill. Zero head retention past 3 minutes
Don’t have the capabilities to do so with out a rack.When you soft crash, do you get the beer off the yeast afterwards? And before dry hopping?
Only 2 row, small amount of carapils and briess red wheat. Soft crash 36 hours at 48ish to drop yeast then allowed the beer to rise back to room temp. dryhoped 4 days before kegging and again with 36 hours to kegging. 2.5 ounces in each with 1 oz of both dryhops being cryo
Yes. It took til the 2nd week for it not to be noticeable and then another week or so to truly be enjoyedDo you experience that the malted oats make the beer take longer to get rid of hopburn?
How long did u cold crash the beer before final transfer to the keg to can from? Perhaps more yeast got in but then again I can't imagine this being the case, some people ship there haze beers (white beers) upside down so that they are hazy when they arrive at the client... So if anything it should give extra haze..Don’t have the capabilities to do so with out a rack.
But that’s certainly not what’s causing the floc. I used to dryhop with yeast present and never experienced a clearing like this before. I’m still wondering if moving the keg to beverage center to can them had something to do with it. It resuspended anything that had previously flocced out in the keg and I’m wondering if it attracted with other proteins/polyphenols and pulled them back down when it settled again
Just a theory but I see lots of NEIPA brewers putting Wheat and Oats in their beers.. Perhaps as oats % goes up they add wheat to balance out some proteins that stick too long?Yes. It took til the 2nd week for it not to be noticeable and then another week or so to truly be enjoyed
No I get that, when everything is re suspended it’s just as hazy as it was in the beginning, I was getting at once that resuspended material starts to floc out again, let’s say 2 weeks at 39/40*f, that it pulls more proteins with it that previously didn’t floc out. Other than that, I’m dumb founded because this is the only time it’s ever happened to this extent.How long did u cold crash the beer before final transfer to the keg to can from? Perhaps more yeast got in but then again I can't imagine this being the case, some people ship there haze beers (white beers) upside down so that they are hazy when they arrive at the client... So if anything it should give extra haze..
Don’t have the capabilities to do so with out a rack.
But that’s certainly not what’s causing the floc. I used to dryhop with yeast present and never experienced a clearing like this before. I’m still wondering if moving the keg to beverage center to can them had something to do with it. It resuspended anything that had previously flocced out in the keg and I’m wondering if it attracted with other proteins/polyphenols and pulled them back down when it settled again
You are resuspending yeast back into solution by warming the beer back up during dry hopping along with increasing the risk for hop creep.
Do you use finings. If so do you meassure them exactly at each batch?I’ll find the article again and post it but they claimed that very minimal amounts of yeast will resuspended by temperature alone, it takes rousing. It’s claimed only extremely active yeast would resuspended by temp which is very small percentage after the cold crash.
That’s what Im guessing is the cause. Also since it probably went back in my kegerator with 2 gallons left, the original sediment from the entire 5 gallons went back into suspension, so if it is the culprit it would of had double the effect based on volumeI could see the movement stirring up the sediment (yeast and proteins) expediting the clearing of the beer once stationary again.
I’ll find the article again and post it but they claimed that very minimal amounts of yeast will resuspended by temperature alone, it takes rousing. It’s claimed only extremely active yeast would resuspended by temp which is very small percentage after the cold crash.
Been looking for it on and off all day. It was something I read in passing about dryhoping. Anyway, I just wrote to Imperial and asked if temperature alone will resuspend yeast or if it needs to be roused. If they get back to me, I will upload their responseIf you get a chance to find and post a link and don’t mind, I’d like to read that article. Or just an author, title, and/or website or book to reference from.
The act of dry hopping would rouse the yeast to some extent because of the pellets sinking and rising...which I used to witness when I fermented in clear vessels.
Just curious. I’ve been wondering if my 48 hr cold crashes are truly enough to drop all the yeast...or at least the amount needed to not be detrimental in any way; splitting hairs kind of ways.
It actually takes quite a few hours for the beer to drop to the set crash temp. So a 48 hr crash really isn’t at set temp for 48 hours.
If you get a chance to find and post a link and don’t mind, I’d like to read that article. Or just an author, title, and/or website or book to reference from.
The act of dry hopping would rouse the yeast to some extent because of the pellets sinking and rising...which I used to witness when I fermented in clear vessels.
Just curious. I’ve been wondering if my 48 hr cold crashes are truly enough to drop all the yeast...or at least the amount needed to not be detrimental in any way; splitting hairs kind of ways.
It actually takes quite a few hours for the beer to drop to the set crash temp. So a 48 hr crash really isn’t at set temp for 48 hours.
Looks yummy! This place is still on my bucket list. My daughter ran Boston this year, but unfortunately I wasn't able to get away from work and go with. She'll probably go back again in a couple of years and I'll catch Treehouse then.Just sharing this as it seems relevant View attachment 632011
Looks good man...8 hop varieties huh...muddled?sticky: Just to add to your data points, my soft crashed beer turned out excellent. I added 4 oz after 58 degree crash for 2 days, let it sit for 24 hours then crashed to 34 for another 2 days. Of course, it's hard to mess up a Citra/Mosaic dry hop. I did however add pre-ferm and full Krausen hops as well. Frankly, I thought (think) biotransformation hops are part of the process for this style. For fun, for this iteration, I added hops everyway I know . I got no floral/perfume and very little hop bite, even day 1 after force carb. Just juice, it was the first time I used A24, though. I kegged just 5 days ago...View attachment 632062 View attachment 632063
Looks good man...8 hop varieties huh...muddled?
To your point, can date 1/25. A few days short of 5 months in the can. Julius is still hazy.I’ve never had a Treehouse beer lose it’s haze other than Bright which is to be expected.
To your point, can date 1/25. A few days short of 5 months in the can. Julius is still hazy.
Yeah....looks just like a bud light. Lol. It’s a little less hazy but it’s still plenty hazy.and by "hazy" I'd say "barely." That's cleared up quite a bit.
@kevink I’ll try that later if I get a chance
I have read to Chapter 8 of Janish book so far - lots of great info and science explanation behind what we do (be warned - very scientific language used at times). I won't provide a bunch of spoilers but I do want to point out interesting process tweaks based on scientific tests regarding yeast / fermentation schedule for Ale yeast & dry hopping for NEIPA to increase esters & reduce unwanted non-fruity hop oils or astringency from polyphenols. (This is not overtly stated in book - I pieced this together.)
- Overpitch yeast - leads to increased esters (this was new info to me - not sure I will try this though)
- Pitch warm (3-5 degrees higher than top of your specific yeast temp range) and continue chilling to desired temp ---- leads to increased esters and possibly greater glycerol (max glycerol production in first 18hrs) (this was new info to me- definitely gonna do this since summer)
- Ferment on the warm side of the schedule - (temp that highest on scale for your yeast - usually 72-74) - increases fruity esters (no surprise here)
- Approximately 60hrs after pitch yeast, DROP the temp to lowest temp for your specific yeast (usually 60-64*) - leads to significant increase in esters. (this was new info to me - for sure gonna do this). Hold this low temp for approximately two days and add first small dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process)
- This should have you around day 5-6. Allow the temp to freerise back to the high end of the ferm schedule for the yeast (~72-74) hold this for 5 days add another small dryhop if desired (no more than 2-3oz & make sure to do LODO process
- Day 10-11 - Crash it to around 58* hold for a day for the yeast to crash then add final dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process). After 24hr crash completely - get the beer transferred off the final dryhop in under 48hrs
- In case you didn't notice the recommendation is small dryhop charges spread across 2-3 charges, including a biotrans dryhop - this reduces astringency from polyphenols & "green" hop oils and increases extraction efficiency of the hops - in turn this makes the beer drinkable sooner. (Not necessarily new info but I am gonna try the triple dryhop instead of my usual double to see if different).
There are few other pearls that I have gathered too. The above has me the most excited so far to try with NEIPAs and some process tweaks to improve my lager brewing that I learned. I strongly recommend everyone add this book to their brewing library.
Following up on this post - finally got around to trying this ferm schedule.
First observation: Fermentation stalled (1.024) probably because of that first temperature drop. I was traveling so I did not notice until day 8. I roused the yeast with the swirl method - pressure started building after 12hrs so I assume fermentation has kicked up again.
I have only applied the first dryhop at this point, gonna wait a couple of days before adding the second dryhop.
Exact same mouthfeel.. no the haze (protein/polyphenol attraction) plays a decent role in the mouthfeel. But you can get a good one Without itI asked this question over in another thread but thought I might get a better educated, or maybe just more biased, answer here.
Is it possible to make a beer that has the flavor and mouth feel of the hazy craze beers without the haze? Personally I like the hazy juicy style so I am not disparaging it, just curious. Can we get the flavors and feel without the haze or is it a side effect of what it takes to get there?
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