New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Just realized a slight contributor to the clearing of my beer so quickly, I used 50% of the dryhop as cryo hops. Doesn’t explain all the floc but certainly contributed

I used Mosaic Cryo for dry hop on Day 5, but it just floated on the surface until bottling day(!), even after 4 days of soft crashing at 60. The learning is I should have a least given the carboy a little shake, because the hops fell from the surface when I was about to start bottling! But I think I'm just going to skip Cryo from now on...
 
I too read Janish's book and just added my last dry hop (2 oz each of Citra and Mosaic) after soft crashing to 58 for 2 days. I don't have the ability to dump yeast (Ssbrew bucket), but I would if I could. I'm going to let it sit for one day at 58 then cold crash for two days before kegging. I also added a preferm and late ferm dry hop. Just call me a lemming. I'm expecting a juice bomb :)

I'm on my second read-through of Janish's book... Lots of great info, but pretty dense/scientific. One thing I am thinking about is the higher whirlpool temps that he advocates. He uses 203 and 185 and nothing lower. I do use the flameout addition, but then I usually have been cooling to under 180 for a long whirlpool. Has anyone found that those higher whirlpool temps are the way to go? I think I am doing to try them next time -- basically, adding most/all of the whirlpool hops at 203.
 
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I used Mosaic Cryo for dry hop on Day 5, but it just floated on the surface until bottling day(!), even after 4 days of soft crashing at 60. The learning is I should have a least given the carboy a little shake, because the hops fell from the surface when I was about to start bottling! But I think I'm just going to skip Cryo from now on...
I’m a fan of them personally. Especially whirlpool additions. I remembered reading janish’s explaination on how cryo dropped beers remainless hazy due to reduced polyphenols
 
After about a month in the keg, mine just has dropped clear
IMG_5200.JPG


It was:
Houseneiparawwheatupload.jpeg
 
Need advice if I should add another addition of dry hops. Og was 1.061 and it’s sitting at 1.010 the last couple days. On day 3 of fermentation I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Monday I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Whirlpool @180f for 30mins
2oz mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Idaho 7

Should I add another round Thursday and then keg after two days? Or would this be to much dry hopping for this abv?
 
Need advice if I should add another addition of dry hops. Og was 1.061 and it’s sitting at 1.010 the last couple days. On day 3 of fermentation I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Monday I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Whirlpool @180f for 30mins
2oz mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Idaho 7

Should I add another round Thursday and then keg after two days? Or would this be to much dry hopping for this abv?

I have almost this exact hop combo on tap right now and I think it’s become my house NEIPA. That Idaho 7 is super potent and delicious when paired with mosaic and Citra. You won’t be disappointed.
 
67.7% 2-Row
12.9% Flaked oats
9.7% Raw Wheat
6.5% Carafoam
3.2% Honey malt

7oz In 180 degree WP
3oz dry hop on day 2 of fermentation and another 3oz after fermentation.
What og and fg?

I suspect too much proteins and not the right ones can give clear beer, (Janish did an experiment on this)

Also 3oz on day 2, you probably lost some oils due to yeast dragging them down and then another 3oz was probably too little to get a stable hazy emulsion.
 
I am making custom brew spreadsheet to track my recipes better and hopping rates to compare recipes, and i am questioning what wort volume you guys have been using to calc the hops to wort ratio.

Do you take the total kettle hops divided by your gallons packaged or use the post boil/whirlpool wort volume??

In my last batch is was at:

Using post boil/whirlpool wort volume = 10oz/7gal = 1.43 oz/gal

or

Using Beer packaged in keg = 10oz/5gal = 2oz/gal
 
My last IPA had around 100 ppm Na in it. If you concentrated, you could find some salty-ness on the tip of the tongue. But you really had to look. I have enjoyed the effects of salt. I don't mash it though. Straight into the boil.
 
I am making custom brew spreadsheet to track my recipes better and hopping rates to compare recipes, and i am questioning what wort volume you guys have been using to calc the hops to wort ratio.

Do you take the total kettle hops divided by your gallons packaged or use the post boil/whirlpool wort volume??

In my last batch is was at:

Using post boil/whirlpool wort volume = 10oz/7gal = 1.43 oz/gal

or

Using Beer packaged in keg = 10oz/5gal = 2oz/gal

Packaged volume
 
9110A37C-448C-486D-8D10-68FB60E5C841.jpeg
This one is a week in the keg.
DIPA w/ Mosaic , Lemon Drop and El
Dorado
Really love what the Lemon Drop brings. A bit floral , definitely different.
Too bad I lost 90% of this beer on the basement floor ‍♂️ Sob story
 
i had the Cashmere bomb last weekend. Several of my friends didn’t really like it as much. I thought it was very interesting, kind of herbal in addn to the fruit character
 
Been to both and you will not be disappointed with either. Definitely go for flights at sloop. The barn location is good
Barn is the original location. I remember going out there when the first open and their sours and Red C red ale were the only good things they were doing. Now everything they put out is solid
 
Barn is the original location. I remember going out there when the first open and their sours and Red C red ale were the only good things they were doing. Now everything they put out is solid

I agree everything is great. I have some sours and Red C from a recent trip and those are solid. Every time I travel by there I always stop
 
Made a random experimental type “IPA” a few months ago with wine yeast and Brett. I didn’t crash it before adding dry hops and all the yeasts I used are notoriously poor floccers. I used 10oz of hops (even the really high polyphenol content ones like Galaxy and Enigma) in the DH and it’s the first hoppy beer I’ve made in a while that has cleared in the keg...

It leads me to believe that getting as much yeast out of the beer as possible before adding large dry hop loads is one of the key elements of haze stability. Yeast that floccs really well is a plus.
 
I know a lot of you guys on here like using imperial a24 dryhop. I just picked up a package yesterday, I plan to use it in a NEIPA but I have a brut ipa planned for this weekend. You guys think this would work well in a brut?
 
I know a lot of you guys on here like using imperial a24 dryhop. I just picked up a package yesterday, I plan to use it in a NEIPA but I have a brut ipa planned for this weekend. You guys think this would work well in a brut?

shite yes!!! i made a couple bruts with it and they were great.
 
Made a random experimental type “IPA” a few months ago with wine yeast and Brett. I didn’t crash it before adding dry hops and all the yeasts I used are notoriously poor floccers. I used 10oz of hops (even the really high polyphenol content ones like Galaxy and Enigma) in the DH and it’s the first hoppy beer I’ve made in a while that has cleared in the keg...

It leads me to believe that getting as much yeast out of the beer as possible before adding large dry hop loads is one of the key elements of haze stability. Yeast that floccs really well is a plus.

Curious to see how it turns out
 
I know a lot of you guys on here like using imperial a24 dryhop. I just picked up a package yesterday, I plan to use it in a NEIPA but I have a brut ipa planned for this weekend. You guys think this would work well in a brut?

The “Citrus” part of that blend is Sacch Trois, which is diastaticus. So yeah it probably would be great for a Brut IPA (If you tend to like that style). If you add a decent amount of sugar and mash really low for a long time you probably won’t even need the enzymes.
 
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Curious to see how it turns out

It’s weird. The wine strain I used produced to many phenols and i didn’t give it long enough for the Brett to transform said phenols. It’s a bit like a Belgian IPA bit with some crazy fruity/weird aromatics. Unfortunately the phenols are too strong. If I were to do it again I’d give it much longer in primary before dry hopping and pitch a stronger more active Brett culture.
 
The “Citrus” part of that blend is Sacch Trois, which is diastaticus. So yeah it probably would be great for a Brut IPA (If you tend to like that style). If you add a decent amount of sugar and mash really low for a long time you probably won’t even need the enzymes.

So I’m guessing I should mash a little high when I use it for NEIPA, I used sacch trois in an IPA before (back when they still thought it was Brett) I think it ended up in the 1010-1012 range
 
i just did an unintentional hop creep experiment! did 10G batch and split. mashed at 165F. same yeast in split batch. only difference was a dry hopped half at like day 3. after soft crash and cold crash, half is at 1.011 and half is at 1.023!
 
So I’m guessing I should mash a little high when I use it for NEIPA, I used sacch trois in an IPA before (back when they still thought it was Brett) I think it ended up in the 1010-1012 range
I mash 154-156 for it. Last batch I step mashed 40 mins at 148 and 30 mins at 161. Finished a 1.016 which I enjoyed a lot.
 
Thats a 4-6 month beer based on that blend.

Only way we’ve made it work for a typical beer is to use pof- wine first for about 36hours then overwhelm it with a beer yeast rip roaring to go. Interesting beers we need to circle back to with new knowledge about biotransformation, hop choices, etc. Even had a neipa idea for the combo, on the to do list, which never seems to get smaller....
 
What POF- wine yeast did you use that wasn’t killer? Only POF- one I know of is K1V-1116 which is killer so if you add regular beer yeast I doubt the result would be that great.

I don’t think it’s a 4-6 month beer but 2-3 probably. There are some Brett strains that act pretty fast and if you pitch a big enough culture they don’t take too long.
 
Has anyone tried Cashmere? Better in the whirlpool or dry hop? Good pairs with it?
I have used it once but in a blend with calypso and some cryo cascade...looking back I should if just done a smash with it to see how it performed by itself...live and learn I guess...in the beer i made I got some lime and melon notes but since it was blended its hard to say what contributed what...it was an ok IPA but not one of my favs...I would suggest trying it as a smash to really gauge what it can do...or just get ur hands on some cashmere bomb[emoji23]
 
I’d have to put in a call and ask to look up the notes but there are actually one or two others that are characterized more as neutral than killer. Especially when vastly outnumbered by a big pitch.

Northernbrewer has a list with the pof and killer criterion of a bunch of wine strains. Link is somewhere here on the site.
 
Brewing this Tomorrow: Hazy River Juice v2

BIAB

Water Profile
Calcium 135ppm
Mag. 10ppm
Sodium 38ppm
Sulfate 93ppm
Chloride 205ppm

Mash at 153-154*F

Grist (milled to 0.020"):
71% Pilener Malt
8.3% Flaked White Wheat
4.2% Flaked Rice
8.3% Flake Oats
8.3% GNO

Boil 30 min (No hop Boil Editions), last 10 min add yeast nutrient.

Whirlpool- 2 rounds:
30 min at 160*F 3oz Azzaca & 2 oz citra
30 min at 150*F 3oz Azzaca & 2 oz citra

7.5 gal in FV

A24 Dry Hop (first time using!!) pitch @ 400 billion cells ( have any tryied less to get more esters? because i have heard over pitch add more too so i am not sure whats best with this strain)

Fermentation:
Day 1- Pitch @ 78*F, chill to 70-71*
Day 2- 72*F
Day 3- raise to 75*F right b4 ramps up heavy ferment activity
Day 4- 76*F
Day 5- free fall to 70-72*F; Dry hop #1 1 oz azzaca & 2oz citra
Day 6- 70-72*F
Day 7- 70-72*F
Day 8- Pull DH #1, Soft crash to 50*F hook up co2 pressure to 3psi
Day 9- 50*F Dump yeast
Day 10-rise to 68*F DH #2 2oz azzaca & 1oz citra
Day 11- 68*F
Day 12- 68*F
Day 13- pull DH #3, forced DICE test, if ok keg

Total Hops 2.46oz per gallon

To all the mad fermentation peps how does this fermentation drive look for A24?? I want to maximize the esters the yeast throws off so any tips would be appreciated!


Nick
 
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What does "crash completely" mean? Does that mean crash at 58 for longer than a day or does it mean crash at a temperature lower than 58 for some length of time?
@kevink

Crash completely - 36* for at lea
I would assume it means crash completely down to your lowest temperature. So looks like 24 hr dry hop at 58F and then drop temp to near freezing for another 24 hr and
package.

What he said!
 
I also just started canning and have only filled about a dozen so far with mixed results. My normal sop is to force carb at roughly 15psi, and I didn't want to pull the keg out to boost carbonation before canning so I just went for it like you. I definitely noticed a flatter beer after filling.
Next time I will force carb to 25psi and can the entire keg, using cold wet cans and a beer gun. I hope this helps my issues, I need to talk with someone who has more experience home canning.

Over fill the can so that when you put the top on and insert in the canner - beer will be displaced - not just foam. Also employ the use of a scale to “check your work” . I do 12oz cans - full can of beer is 294g for my can blanks (could vary by manufacturer). Anything less than 289g and I will drink it that same day because if will go flat.

I do not over carb - I can off keg tap. I hate beer guns.
 
On the subject of clarity. Has anyone ever left some neipa from which we "know" they dont use flaked/malted.wheat and oats in the fridge for a while and checked clarity later on?

I can tell from experience that Julius from Tree House dropped pretty clear after about 2 months.

@couchsending how long did your non wheat/oat neipas stay hazy in the keg?
Did you not notice any difference in clearing at all?

What about the ones from hill farmstead, trillium etc

Cheers.
 
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