New Mangrove Jack's strains?

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As I said above, (not including the Wit Strain). Its probably the only one worth a dime.

Ah, yes, I missed your comment. I'm planning on trying the abbey strain in a dubbel, so it's reassuring that you like it. From what I have read about it, it kind of reminds me of the Chimay strain (wlp500/ wy1214), do you have any thoughts on that?
 
Ah, yes, I missed your comment. I'm planning on trying the abbey strain in a dubbel, so it's reassuring that you like it. From what I have read about it, it kind of reminds me of the Chimay strain (wlp500/ wy1214), do you have any thoughts on that?


I'd say Closer to WLP530.
I put it in a dubbel. Turned out well.
 
You've tried them all?

I've tried the majority of them.
Living in New Zealand I have ready access to the brand.

Here's my thoughts:
M44- give it a higher pitch rate, otherwise it takes off slowly, and can throw some booze etc. into the beer. if you do this, the beer will finish out nice and fast aswell. cleaner than US-05, drops clearer as well.

M21- Wit yeast, a really nice character, lower attenuation than I expected. but clean, with a traditional type wit character. (maybe a little extra banana though)

M47- Abbey. Closest to WLP530 IMO. Nice phenolics, keep control of temps I ran at 20-22 Deg C came out nicely. a strong beer ,but its balanced out nicely.

M36- Used ages ago, want to give it another go. last time it didn't finish out, (i believe it was my issue not the yeast) a friend gave me a rigger of his APA using this, and it was nice, although the hops were muted slightly compared to M44.

M29-horrible. It'll ferment your mother if you let it. Attenuates waaaay too far. same goes for french saison (both are terrible IMO)

Empire( I forget the code) - nice enough - used in barleywine, worth experimenting.

Tripel - haven't tried this, but got a taste of someone else's.... its ok, but its overly phenolic, think banana milkshake

newcastle dark. i really like this one, it just doesn't attenuate well enough for me.

california common - haven't tried it

lager yeasts - i havent tried, but the ones ive had of other brews made with these, have come out well. the only comment i'd make is the bohemian doesn't really fit, its more lager than pilsner.

am i missing any?
 
Is MJ Australian or NZ, as I too have ready access to all of there strains and can fill in your M54 cali common blank as I used that strain for 4 lagers and they all turned out really good. Not sure if it was intended but the yeast seemed to really accentuate the hops and two of the lagers ended up with a slight hint of sulphur that didn't detract from the beer at all.

Brewed the M36 strain Sunday, active fermentation within 12 hours, krausen dropped Wednesday. Going to put in some dry hops tonight. The starter I did for it had some crazy good fruity esters going on that I really hope transfer to the final product as my partner wants a S&F Tasman Lager clone, except the starter was done at 21 and I started the fermentation at 19 with a slow ramp to 23.
 
Well complaining about a saison strain attenuating too much is kind of missing the point.

That said the French Saison isn't the best saison yeast but I made my best saison (out of 7) using a blend of MG French Saison and Belle Saison with low IBUs, all 2-row and a bit citra dry hop. Was wonderful.
 
Is MJ Australian or NZ, as I too have ready access to all of there strains and can fill in your M54 cali common blank as I used that strain for 4 lagers and they all turned out really good. Not sure if it was intended but the yeast seemed to really accentuate the hops and two of the lagers ended up with a slight hint of sulphur that didn't detract from the beer at all.

Brewed the M36 strain Sunday, active fermentation within 12 hours, krausen dropped Wednesday. Going to put in some dry hops tonight. The starter I did for it had some crazy good fruity esters going on that I really hope transfer to the final product as my partner wants a S&F Tasman Lager clone, except the starter was done at 21 and I started the fermentation at 19 with a slow ramp to 23.

Kiwi brand mate.
iMake is the company owner. Based in Dorkland

cheers for filling i nthe blanks.
 
Does anybody have more experiences with the M36?

I made an oaty english ipa with it and was quite pleased. Apparent attenuation was 74% i think, it kinda really fused the flavours together. Nice, soft bitterness, aftertaste was mostly malty, esters were subtle, but still enough for brittish style.
Even my mother liked it and she doesn't even drink beer..

EDIT: Well, the yeast i used was previously called Burton Union, but Liberty bell is the new name for it so.. It's the same yeast, maybe just hearthier.
Also i want to warn you about the flocculation! It doesn't pack as tight as most brittish strains, so use irish moss, cold crash a bit if you can and be careful when racking and it'll be clear.
 
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Have you tried the m41 belgian ale?

Yep - Not good!
after trying beers with this, and the new M29, I believe the 41 is actually the old M27 (I do not like this) and the M29 is actually a new Saison type strain.
I could be wrong, but it tastes very similar, and I'm not a fan TBH.
 
Crazy thing happened to me on my first ferment with the M10-Workhorse. Did a 10 gal cream ale and split between that and Wyeast 2112. I do 3 week primary and then keg. So at the end of 3 weeks the 2112 was at the FG 1.012 that it was supposed to hit and the M10 was at 1.016. Kegged both and on 30 psi at 68* for 3 days,then 20 for 1 week and in the kegerator it went. Nothing but foam from the M10 , 2112 pouring well. Keep popping the relief valve for 1 week twice a day. When it started pouring so I got more then 1/2 glass I put the hydrometer to it and it was 1.009 WTF?
 
Crazy thing happened to me on my first ferment with the M10-Workhorse. Did a 10 gal cream ale and split between that and Wyeast 2112. I do 3 week primary and then keg. So at the end of 3 weeks the 2112 was at the FG 1.012 that it was supposed to hit and the M10 was at 1.016. Kegged both and on 30 psi at 68* for 3 days,then 20 for 1 week and in the kegerator it went. Nothing but foam from the M10 , 2112 pouring well. Keep popping the relief valve for 1 week twice a day. When it started pouring so I got more then 1/2 glass I put the hydrometer to it and it was 1.009 WTF?

Workhorse will ferment at lowtemps.
hence why it continued to drop.
 
You would think that after 3 weeks at 70* it would be done. The taste is much more fruity than the 2112 which is kinda bland. Might have to try this beside 2565 at 55* and see what it tastes like.
 
Well my first M36 liberty based beer has turned out very nice and balanced between the malt and hops.

Basically tried this instead of going with 34/70 but I haven't used the 34/70 for this grain bill so cannot compare.

Grain bill was 4.2Kg (94% pilsner, 3% light crystal, 3% dextrin).
Water profile was fairly balanced (100 Ca, 50 Cl, 75 SO4)
10g 18% AA for the boil, 70g staggered hop additions with 30g dry hop.

The fruity esters are not there like the starter batch had which was a little disappointing. I fermented at 19c for the first 2-3 days before ramping up compared to the starter being done at 21c so I guess that's why.

1050 to 1014 (7 days) which is fairly spot on to what I was after (the dextrin ups the FG) as I like my beer 4.5~5.0 abv. Flocculated very well and dropped clear with 24hr 4c cold crash, kegged day 9 and sampled day 14.

I did split my starter so will make another similar beer perhaps fermenting 20c to start with. Over the weekend I met the master brewer from Sprig and Fern (Nelson, NZ) and got the inside word on the hops they use for the beer I was copying!
 
I was literally just logging on to write a review of M47-- I brewed four different beers with it in the last couple of months and had been planning to write up my findings, as there weren't any good reviews out yet when I purchased it. Should have the post up soon!
 
I was literally just logging on to write a review of M47-- I brewed four different beers with it in the last couple of months and had been planning to write up my findings, as there weren't any good reviews out yet when I purchased it. Should have the post up soon!
I'm very interested to hear your thoughts on this!
 
Finally brewed my wit with M21 yesterday. Bubbling along happily. Next brew will be a Belgian single with the Tripel strain, and an ordinary bitter with Liberty Bell. Slowly working my way through the lineup!
 
Just started a porter with M03 Dark Ale/M15 Empire ale (same thing I believe), fermentation was vigorous after only 4 hours, so I'm pretty happy with it so far, I'll report back on the finished product!
 
Hi guys!
Have anyone here used M15 Empire Ale with high gravity stuff like Imperial Stout or Barleywine ? What is alcohol tolerance of that strain ?
 
I just used M15 on an oatmeal stout. OG was 1.060 and fermenting at 68. It took off right away, bubbled well for about 2 days and has slowed now. I haven't taken a read lately though. Did try a sample yesterday and it was very good so I can report back when it's done fermenting. I've used their yeast a few times and have had pretty good results with it
 
My Goose Island IPA using M42 is now 16 days in the bottle and tastes very good. I dry hopped with Cascade and the grapefruit/citrus flavour is really shining through. I don't know if it's the yeast or a combination of other factors. For example I ended up dry hopping for 14 days instead of 7. I only have 5 bottles from 30 left so I'll definitely brew it again but only a 7 day dry hop and see if I get similar results. Anyway I wouldn't hesitate using it in an IPA again, would prefer it to S-04.
 
Just started a porter with M03 Dark Ale/M15 Empire ale (same thing I believe), fermentation was vigorous after only 4 hours, so I'm pretty happy with it so far, I'll report back on the finished product!

Reporting back:

OG: 1.052
FG 1.020

This is WAAAY underattenuated

My mash temp was 150 for 60 minutes, and the bulk of my grain was standard 2-row. I rehydrated the yeast, fermented at 66, ramped to 72 after 6 days. FG has been stable for 3 days, so I'm starting the cold crash and planning to keg it on friday.

Taste-wise, it's clean but there's a hint of lingering bitterness that's not hop related. It has a heavy mouthfeel but doesn't taste overly sweet.

Overall, I would use S04 if I had to do it over again.
 
i have mixed feelings about MJ yeasts. i had batches that tasted great, some bad. some attenuated well some not. some cleared some stayed cloudy.
latest batch of APA with m42. 4 weeks in primary - the most murky beer i’ve ever seen.
 
i have mixed feelings about MJ yeasts. i had batches that tasted great, some bad. some attenuated well some not. some cleared some stayed cloudy.
latest batch of APA with m42. 4 weeks in primary - the most murky beer i’ve ever seen.

The one beer I brewed with M42 the yeast dropped like a stone and makes a compact layer on the bottom of the bottle. I ordered 3 more packs but still have to decide what I want to brew with them. I have 2 packs of the wit yeast too. 1 for a Raging ***** inspired Belgian IPA and the other for a white IPA.

I also have a pack of liberty belle , anyone have a recipe they would recommend for that?
 
The one beer I brewed with M42 the yeast dropped like a stone and makes a compact layer on the bottom of the bottle.

i think MJ might be having quality control issues or something. how is it that peoples experience with them is so varied. i even had mixed results with the same yeast.
a while back made hefe with m20, beer was spot on flavour and appearance-wise. made the same batch again, same ingredients, same equipment same yeast - the beer was very different. flavour was weird and the yeast flocculated and compacted like mad - making it a kristallweizen.
im bottling a belgian this weekend with M47 yeast, will see how that goes.
cheers.
 
I still need to try but I think maybe M42 it's not the yeast for a bone dry IPA/DIPA but more for something that should have a decent bit of malt character. So basically any IPA where they/or I decided to use British pale ale as the base malt i.e. Maris Otter, Golden Promise etc.
Keeping that in mind I'm going to try it out for a Rogue Brutal Bitter/IPA inspired beer.
Using it instead of Pacman and swapping the Crystal hops with Mt. Hood and Strisselspalt.

60 IBU OG 1.060

4.50 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett) (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 74.4 %
0.55 kg CHÂTEAU CARA RUBY® (50.0 EBC) Grain 2 9.1 %
0.40 kg Carared (Weyermann) (47.3 EBC) Grain 3 6.6 %
0.40 kg Carawheat (Weyermann) (98.5 EBC) Grain 4 6.6 %
0.20 kg Pale Crystal Malt (Bairds) (95.0 EBC) Grain 5 3.3 %
40.00 g Mt. Hood [4.50 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 6 22.5 IBUs
45.00 g Mt. Hood [4.50 %] - Boil 40.0 min Hop 7 20.2 IBUs
45.00 g Mt. Hood [4.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 8 13.9 IBUs
50.00 g Strisslespalt [3.60 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 9 4.1 IBUs
1.0 pkg New World Strong Ale (Mangrove Jack's #M42) Yeast 10 -
 
i think MJ might be having quality control issues or something. how is it that peoples experience with them is so varied. I even had mixed results with the same yeast.
I would not jump to conclusions because different people with different setups brewing different recipes are getting different results.
 
I was super excited with MJ offerings but after using them a few times I had some interesting unanticipated tastes from MJ on a couple different strains. Not bad per se, just unanticipated which does not lend itself to the predictability I am trying to get out of a dry yeast.
 
Has anyone brewed a bigger beer using only one sachet of their yeast? Mangrove Jacks say to use 2 packs per 23 litres/ 6 gal for ales with an OG over 1.050. I just bottled one with on OG of 1.061 with two packs of M42 and there was a massive layer of yeast on the bottom of the fermentor. I'm just wondering if it would be possible to get away with one pack as long as the gravity isn't too high. Could it just be their way of selling more yeast?

Also, they state you shouldn't harvest it, quote: "As a result of the drying process, Mangrove Jack’s Craft Series dried yeasts are not suitable for harvesting and/or repitching." People harvest other dried yeasts, so what makes theirs different?
 
Has anyone brewed a bigger beer using only one sachet of their yeast? Mangrove Jacks say to use 2 packs per 23 litres/ 6 gal for ales with an OG over 1.050. I just bottled one with on OG of 1.061 with two packs of M42 and there was a massive layer of yeast on the bottom of the fermentor. I'm just wondering if it would be possible to get away with one pack as long as the gravity isn't too high. Could it just be their way of selling more yeast?

Also, they state you shouldn't harvest it, quote: "As a result of the drying process, Mangrove Jack’s Craft Series dried yeasts are not suitable for harvesting and/or repitching." People harvest other dried yeasts, so what makes theirs different?


I tried a single pack. And it didn't turn out well. Undeepitching is very easy with these yeasts as the packs are 1.5g smaller than fermentis as well. I always overpotch these yeasts now, as some take longer to take off and a small overpotch is not really detrimental IMO

The reason for no repitching is because these strains (particularly M44) is that it morphs significantly from beee to beer and dries out further.
 
I started a kit and kilo yorkshire bitter last weekend with Liberty Bell (had to choose from that or Nottingham), I will post the results.

This one is still fermenting, took off fast enough and has been bubbling away steadily. Is this strain known to be slow? OG was 1.046, pitched 1 pack into well aerated 5G.
 
Just bottled my witbier (M21) yesterday. OG 1.045, FG 1.012. Despite being flat, it tasted really nice. Next up is a Belgian single using the Tripel yeast (M31), and a smoked porter using US West Coast (M44).
 

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