My Weldless Build Using Strut

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Finished with the strut. I used an angle grinder to notch the steel & then a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. The sawzall cut through it extremely fast, but some of the cuts came out a little at an angle as it liked to jump around. Took 4 blades to get through all the cuts (though I made about 6 cuts too many). The slight angle on some of the cuts wasn't a big deal as the fittings to most of the alignment.

Still waiting on 2nd burner & pump - & I have added casters since the below photo.

I'll update as I add.

IMG_2589.jpg
 
AWESOME FORUM!!! I am about to embark on a strut build and doing some cost analysis. I couldnt find a straight up answer but 304 SS or galvanized strut? i know it may be a cost thing but just have to ask? is it worth the massive extra cost? and for anyone who has used galvanized.... how are your brewstands holding up? how many brews have you done on them?

I attached a pic of my strut build. any comments on the layout would be appreciated?

strut stand.jpg
 
Msylvester0616 said:
I couldnt find a straight up answer but 304 SS or galvanized strut? i know it may be a cost thing but just have to ask? is it worth the massive extra cost?
Click to expand...
it's mostly a cost thing, but there is also a health concern: the first time (first few times?) you use a galvanized stand, you will burn off the galvanization. the fumes are toxic, so light that baby up and step away for a few minutes, don't stand downwind, etc. once burned off you're safe.

stainless can always be cleaned, so it'll look shiny as long as you're willing to scrub. for galvanized, once the coating is burned off and the underlying metal exposed, it will start to rust a little, you won't be able to clean off burned wort (unless you grind it off, maybe?), etc. so if the appearance of your stand is important, go with SS.

i imagine that a SS-topped stand will last longer... but that seems like a theoretical concern. do you really need a stand to last 10+ years? and if the top level of a galvanized stand is falling apart, just replace it (assuming you can still undo the bolts, all those years and gallons of spilled wort later...)

Msylvester0616 said:
I attached a pic of my strut build. any comments on the layout would be appreciated?
Click to expand...
obvious question, but what size are your pots? as long as that is sized correctly for the 16" width of the top level, your design looks good to me (for whatever that's worth...)

Msylvester0616 said:
also what about silver electoplated??? what ever that is?
Click to expand...
i imagine it's strut with a very thin coat of silver on the outside. i've never heard of it. is it cheaper than stainless?

i would be concerned that the thin electroplated layer could be scratched or worn off, given the use that it will be put to.
 
I've noticed that this thread, like most of the brew stand threads, is heavily dominated by the keggle crowd. I'm a kettle/cooler MLT/Batch sparge guy, but I'd still like to make a stand similar to the ones here for my rig. I read through this entire thread (yeah, crazy right?), and I really see very little that matches my ideas and process. It makes me wonder if I'm doing it wrong. Here's what I'm doing today, what I'd like to do and the rig I think will support it. Let me know if you've got any improvements in my process given the equipment and approach I have.

I heat my strike water, then dump it into the MLT cooler. I dough in the grains, mash for 60 mins, vorlouf and drain the first runnings. While the mash is going, I heat my sparge water and dump into a round beverage cooler which is used as a simple HLT while I'm taking first runnings into the kettle.

Next is a simple batch sparge: dump from the HLT cooler into the MLT cooler, stir, rest 10 minutes, vorlauf and drain into kettle which is already heating up.

Boil, whirlpool, chill, pump into my fermentor using a siphon aerator to oxygenate the wort.

Currently there's lifting, dumping etc that I'd like to get away from. The only gravity I use is to drain from the MLT to the kettle. I'd also like a simple, compact rig that's easy to setup and easy to store.

Now the proposal, with a few caveats. I really don't want a 3 tier system because I don't want something that is 7' tall (I see pictures with ladders next to the HLT all the time...don't want that). I want to minimize lifting and dumping of hot or boiling water which I think is really dangerous.

Use the attached diagram for reference. An alternate design has the burner on the floor which shortens the cart and allows more separation between the cart and burner if desired.

Heat strike water. Use pump to pump into the MLT. Dough in and mash as usual. Heat sparge water while the mash is going and pump to HLT for holding during first runnings. Vorlauf, drain first runnings (using gravity) into kettle and begin heating.

Use pump to pump sparge water from HLT to MLT. Stir, let rest, vorlouf and take second runnings as before. Begin boil.

Whirlpool using pump, chill and pump to fermentor as I always do.

I have quick connects on my silicone hoses, so it's easy to change over the pump for various uses. I use an existing burner, so no issues with galvanized steel as part of my burner. No lifting, no dumping. Plus I have a cart that I can roll to the side of the garage when not in use (and store my stuff in). I plan to buy a grill cover to cover it when not in use.

To start my brew day, simple roll the cart to the middle of my garage, connect the burner and start heating my strike water.

So, is there a flaw in my thinking and plan? Why isn't anyone else doing it this way? What can I do to make it easier, more simple and better functioning?

SimpleBrewStructure.jpg
 
There's no reason your system won't work. But you're going to have to pump the Lautering water UP to the MLT. I do this with my system, but it's for the purpose of using the HLT as a second boil kettle if I'm doing a Parti Gyle (Which is minimum of twice a year). If it were me, I would raise the HLT or lower the MLT to gravity feed that portion of the system. I'll attach a photo of my rig for you.

View attachment 1494541515810.jpg
 
kirbcheck said:
There's no reason your system won't work. But you're going to have to pump the Lautering water UP to the MLT. I do this with my system, but it's for the purpose of using the HLT as a second boil kettle if I'm doing a Parti Gyle (Which is minimum of twice a year). If it were me, I would raise the HLT or lower the MLT to gravity feed that portion of the system. I'll attach a photo of my rig for you.
Click to expand...

That's true, but for a batch sparge it doesn't seem like a big deal. If I want gravity from the HLT to MLT and gravity from the MLT to the kettle, that requires a 3 tier system. I guess it doesn't matter much if the HLT is high....I don't really need to be able to see into it if I trust the volume I pump to it.

With a batch sparge, the sparge water volume is obviously critical.
 
OK, after more thrashing, I've figured out a "3 tier" (one "tier" is the floor) stand that isn't 10' tall. It includes space to store the floor standing portion when not in use and can be done with 4 sticks of strut. Estimated cost is about $270.

3TierBrewStand.jpg
 
When I build my brewstand, I'll listen to this as I do it!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
two questions for the hivemind:

1) ALUMINIUM: does anyone see a problem with using aluminium strut? a few places sell it (McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc.), it costs about the same as galvanized or painted steel. benefits would be lower weight and corrosion resistance (Al doesn't rust). thoughts?

2) FLAT STRUT: any opinions on using "flat" 13/16" width strut instead of standard square 1-5/8? i'm sure it will still be plenty strong - let's face it, standard 1-5/8" is overkill what what we're doing. the 13/16" stuff is both cheaper and lighter.

(in case you're wondering why a big strong manly man like myself is worrying about weight, i'm going to need to cart my stand out every time i use it, i'll need to bump it over a door-ledge or two... the thing will be on wheels, but 75 pounds will be less of a struggle than 100)

EDIT: it's occurred to me that Al has a lower melting point than steel (1221°F vs 2500°F) - not sure if that is a consideration for us. also, dunno what the potential long-term impact of heating and cooling Al is.
 
Mine is steel and heavy. I can mange it over a threshold but it's a PITA. With two banjo burners, two pumps, keggle with Herms coil, etc, dropping weight would be welcomed. Just as hard is guiding it around on 4 wheels. Would be much easier to have handles on one end and a way to elevate it like a float. I'd consider the method of rolling around as much as the weight.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1498868526.875102.jpg
 
Other thing is aluminum conducts heat VERY well. Would investigate how much of the rig would get hot. Would not want that extending past the top horizontal
 
bd2xu said:
Other thing is aluminum conducts heat VERY well. Would investigate how much of the rig would get hot. Would not want that extending past the top horizontal
Click to expand...

Mine is aluminum and I've never had a problem even with two Blichmann burners on full.

19601367_1902996939942569_6741070863227129063_n.jpg


The Blichmann legs are just bolted onto angle pieces, which in turn are bolted to the strut. It has never felt anything but rock solid, even with 2 batches going at once.

19598536_1903000456608884_985673621423110799_n.jpg


It's light enough that I've even lifted it into a utility sink to clean off the baked-in grime of a thousand gallons of wort-boiling.
 
My single tier strut stand on the inaugural brew. Previously did a hot water test to also burn off some of the galvanized. System works pretty good. Need to build heat shields as my PVC switch boxes are starting to melt from the burner heat.
img_5632-68253.jpg
 
Nice looking build! Are those the burner mounts I sell? I've shipped quite a few so it is possible, just didn't know your name from your screen name. If so, hope they are working out well for you!
 
gifty74 said:
Nice looking build! Are those the burner mounts I sell? I've shipped quite a few so it is possible, just didn't know your name from your screen name. If so, hope they are working out well for you!
Click to expand...
Thanks, gifty74. Actually it is flat stock from Lowe's that I bent to fit. I cut and bent all 4 the same so the holes would match up and the burner be adjustable for height.
 
Awesome! That is exactly what I make mine out of, funny. I sell them as a burner mount kit with 3/8" bolts and strut nuts, makes it easy for those just looking to mount up a few BG14s without going to the hardware store, cutting the stock, bending, etc.
 
gifty74 said:
Awesome! That is exactly what I make mine out of, funny. I sell them as a burner mount kit with 3/8" bolts and strut nuts, makes it easy for those just looking to mount up a few BG14s without going to the hardware store, cutting the stock, bending, etc.
Click to expand...

I wasn't quite sure on how this was going to play out and bought a stick of it one day on a whim. Works good. You didn't happen to make a BG-14 wind shield did you? That is my next chore. Was looking at making it out of heavy flashing.
 
arcorey said:
My single tier strut stand on the inaugural brew. Previously did a hot water test to also burn off some of the galvanized. System works pretty good. Need to build heat shields as my PVC switch boxes are starting to melt from the burner heat.
img_5632-68253.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice and shiny looking setup. I assume that is a herms coil in your HLT? If so, how do you regulate the temperature of the wort coming out of it?
 
beernutz said:
Nice and shiny looking setup. I assume that is a herms coil in your HLT? If so, how do you regulate the temperature of the wort coming out of it?
Click to expand...
Yes HERMS. I just get my HLT up to temp and manually maintain using the regulator valve on the burner. I found that keeping a low flame on the burner under the HLT would hold it right at temp. When it looked to be going hot I took the lid off and stirred and when it started to cool I raised flame. My wort temp on the bottom drain thermometer stayed within a few degrees of target for the entire 90 minute mash/recirc. When it raised or dropped it was because I was messing around grilling or talking to a buddy :). The HLT runs about 1-2 degrees higher than the MLT output I noticed.
 
bd2xu said:
Mine is steel and heavy. I can mange it over a threshold but it's a PITA. With two banjo burners, two pumps, keggle with Herms coil, etc, dropping weight would be welcomed. Just as hard is guiding it around on 4 wheels. Would be much easier to have handles on one end and a way to elevate it like a float. I'd consider the method of rolling around as much as the weight.
View attachment 405967
Click to expand...

I noticed you were in Atlanta. Did you find all of the material locally?
 
btbnl said:
Mine is aluminum and I've never had a problem even with two Blichmann burners on full.

The Blichmann legs are just bolted onto angle pieces, which in turn are bolted to the strut. It has never felt anything but rock solid, even with 2 batches going at once.

19598536_1903000456608884_985673621423110799_n.jpg
Click to expand...
that is absolutely brilliant. i will be mounting my soon-to-be-acquired Hellfires exactly like yours, thanks for the inspiration.

QUESTION: how far apart are your upper struts (depth)? i can't find the dimensions of the Hellfire, so i don't know what size to make my stand. since i'm copying your design, might as well copy your dimensions :mug:

i'd greatly appreciate additional pictures of the Hellfire mountings... cheers!
 
sweetcell said:
that is absolutely brilliant. i will be mounting my soon-to-be-acquired Hellfires exactly like yours, thanks for the inspiration.

QUESTION: how far apart are your upper struts (depth)? i can't find the dimensions of the Hellfire, so i don't know what size to make my stand. since i'm copying your design, might as well copy your dimensions :mug:

i'd greatly appreciate additional pictures of the Hellfire mountings... cheers!
Click to expand...

My cross-pieces are all 13.75" - however mine aren't the hellfire burners but the previous generation.
 
btbnl said:
My cross-pieces are all 13.75" - however mine aren't the hellfire burners but the previous generation.
Click to expand...
hey @btbnl -

looks like your photo of the mounted burners, with the 45* angles holding them in place, are no longer online. any chance you could re-post it? or send it to me via PM?

i have just received my hellfire burners and am spec'ing out parts to assemble my rig. being new to strut, i have no idea how one would attach the 45* angles to the side of a channel where there are no holes. did you just run a right angle from the underside, going up (or from the top hanging down), then attached the 45* angle to that?

thanks!
 
a few days ago i pulled the trigger on the strutchannelfittings.com's Beer Brewing Stand Kit. made a small modification to the design, so that i can mount wheels at one end (only) - see attached mock-up.

i worked directly with the owner (or one of the owners) and he was a charm. he was very willing to work with me as i iterated through my design. originally i was going to go with all powder-coated (no stainless steel) and that knocked $90 off the price, but ultimately decided to pay up for the SS. if the standard design of the kit doesn't exactly meet your needs, don't hesitate to call the folks at strutchannelfittings.com. might take a few calls, tho, there isn't always something sitting by the phone... took me several days before i got through, but entirely worth it once i did.

i'll post pix once the thing is assembled.

beerstand.png
 
Foltzwagon Brewing said:
Just wanted to add our set up to show that you can build a stand out of 13/16" strut. It is plenty strong and stable.
Click to expand...
anyone who thinks otherwise doesn't know a thing about structural engineering. the common use of 1-5/8" strut is complete overkill. i'm guilty of using 1-5/8 - i wanted to use 13/16" but getting all the parts/hardware was proving to be a pain, so i just threw in the tower and went (too) big.

nice build!
 
Foltzwagon Brewing said:
Just wanted to add our set up to show that you can build a stand out of 13/16" strut. It is plenty strong and stable. I designed it so that we could turn it on end for storage.
Click to expand...

Inspired by your wheeled trolley for your pumps and controller, I built something similar for my setup. I don't have room for a full three vessel stand. I store my equipment in a closet in a spare bedroom and now brew on a fold up banquet table.

Here is my portable stand for my RIMS controller, pump, Bilchmann RIMS Rocket and counterflow chiller:

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190720164552458_COVER.jpg


And it in action performing a recirculation mash:

IMG_20190721_130308.jpg


And sparging:

IMG_20190721_142503.jpg
 

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