My build

[Roadie]

looks great. Where did you get that large hot pad for the hlt?

At Home Depot. Perfect size. It's a pine blank. I've stained it now and waiting on warm weather to put a couple coats of clear on it.


Almost Famous Brewing Company

 

[Roadie]

we used the chalkboard paint in the kids' rooms and in the kitchen. it really does work pretty good. not sure if that's an option in your brew room or not.

I decided to do the same. Need to cut a work surface to size to paint. I used it on the keezer and have plenty left over.



Almost Famous Brewing Company

 

[kchomebrew]

Had a question for you on your heating elements. I just purchased some stout tanks to replace the blichmann kettles I used to have (wanted to have TC fittings). When I used the element port adapter provided by Stout with my Spike Innovations heating element (the one sold through theelectricbrewery.com), the ripple element doesn't fit all the way through the port. You can see from the photo that the element rubs up against the inside of the port wall. I noticed you used ripple elements with a tri clover element port adapter (similar to this one:https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html). Do you have any issues with the ripple element touching the inside of the port ? Here's a photo of what I'm talking about (pic attached).

 

[fhhobbies]

I don't see a pic oops there it is

 

[fhhobbies]

If I remember right mine are like that too, doesn't seem to harm anything

 

[augiedoggy]

Is that rust all over the element? Hmm I wonder why mine have never done that?

 

[rvklein]

Mine's the same way. The BJCP judges don't seem to notice

 

[fhhobbies]

I keep my tanks dry after I brew, no rust issues on mine, I use Camco 5500


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[Roadie]

I have this connector for the element but don't really like it and someday will switch to something else. http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm

We experienced the same thing with the ripple element and twisted the element around a little so that it isn't directly touching the kettle but it's damn close. Doesn't seem to bother anything.

 

[fhhobbies]

Funny I have the Brewhardware ones and I was going to switch to those other ones


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[fhhobbies]

Those ones from Brewershardware seem a lot stronger. I had to silver solder mine up to keep them from blowing apart.


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[kchomebrew]

Is that rust all over the element? Hmm I wonder why mine have never done that?

Nope. Just dried crusty wort. Need to scrub it better.


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[kchomebrew]

I have this connector for the element but don't really like it and someday will switch to something else. http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm

We experienced the same thing with the ripple element and twisted the element around a little so that it isn't directly touching the kettle but it's damn close. Doesn't seem to bother anything.

I'm thinking of ordering the 4500watt elements from high gravity that have the straight folded end (non ripple) and using the Brewers hardware element housing so that noting is touching the port. They don't have a stainless base, so rust could be an issue. I suppose I'd have to use food grade silicone on the base of the element to prevent that. Looks like the all stainless elements on brewmation are 22" long and kettle diameter for my tanks are 20". So that's a bummer. Only other option is to get the all stainless ripple elements on brewmation and set it up like you have. Any thoughts ?


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[carpenike]

I'm thinking of ordering the 4500watt elements from high gravity that have the straight folded end (non ripple) and using the Brewers hardware element housing so that noting is touching the port. They don't have a stainless base, so rust could be an issue. I suppose I'd have to use food grade silicone on the base of the element to prevent that. Looks like the all stainless elements on brewmation are 22" long and kettle diameter for my tanks are 20". So that's a bummer. Only other option is to get the all stainless ripple elements on brewmation and set it up like you have. Any thoughts ?


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Fyi, Bobby recently got all stainless elements in. Ordered two last week.

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

 

[Roadie]

Those ones from Brewershardware seem a lot stronger. I had to silver solder mine up to keep them from blowing apart.


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Yes, they want to twist apart from the wires inside and come apart too easily leaving the connections exposed. On my list of things to change.

 

[Roadie]

Fyi, Bobby recently got all stainless elements in. Ordered two last week.

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

If those work good and bases are truly SS then that seems to be the way to go.

 

[Roadie]

I'm thinking of ordering the 4500watt elements from high gravity that have the straight folded end (non ripple) and using the Brewers hardware element housing so that noting is touching the port. They don't have a stainless base, so rust could be an issue. I suppose I'd have to use food grade silicone on the base of the element to prevent that. Looks like the all stainless elements on brewmation are 22" long and kettle diameter for my tanks are 20". So that's a bummer. Only other option is to get the all stainless ripple elements on brewmation and set it up like you have. Any thoughts ?
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The link carpenike provided seems to be what you are looking for if they are as advertised. The closeness of the element to the kettle's port hasn't effected the beer or kettle in our instance. We're in Olathe if you want to check our's out.

 

[kal]

When I used the element port adapter provided by Stout with my Spike Innovations heating element (the one sold through theelectricbrewery.com), the ripple element doesn't fit all the way through the port. You can see from the photo that the element rubs up against the inside of the port wall.

For what it's worth, we have dozens (hundreds?) of Stout kettle customers using our Spike Innovations heating element kits without issues. Some touching will not matter.

Kal

 

[kchomebrew]

For what it's worth, we have dozens (hundreds?) of Stout kettle customers using our Spike Innovations heating element kits without issues. Some touching will not matter.



Kal

Appreciate the info on that. You guys make outstanding products ! I've bought the hop stopper, pre assembled heating elements and currently have a 50amp control box and temp probes being built. Very happy with everything I've bought from you guys. All great products !


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[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

Yes, they want to twist apart from the wires inside and come apart too easily leaving the connections exposed. On my list of things to change.

Do you have one of the first run he sold? I think he has modified them since then to fix the threads and the welds. Either way mine are still going strong, but I only brew once a month or sometimes less.


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[Roadie]

Do you have one of the first run he sold? I think he has modified them since then to fix the threads and the welds. Either way mine are still going strong, but I only brew once a month or sometimes less.


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I have no idea. When you screw the two pieces together the wires inside twist and then want to "untwist"; I hate that. Also it's longer than I wish it was.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have no idea. When you screw the two pieces together the wires inside twist and then want to "untwist"; I hate that. Also it's longer than I wish it was.

I dont see how that would happen unless you already had the black compression fitting installed and tightened down around the cord which would make the cord twist with the housing and connected fitting.

 

[orangehero]

My SJOOW cord barely fits through the grip. Also the ground wire attaches to the outer cap. You have to put an opposite twist in before you screw it down. In my opionion 2" TC with the stilldragon housing is the way to go for elements.

 

[Roadie]

My SJOOW cord barely fits through the grip. Also the ground wire attaches to the outer cap. You have to put an opposite twist in before you screw it down. In my opionion 2" TC with the stilldragon housing is the way to go for elements.

You have stout kettles right? I didn't know a 2" TC would fit on the element ferrule/port??

 

[augiedoggy]

My SJOOW cord barely fits through the grip. Also the ground wire attaches to the outer cap. You have to put an opposite twist in before you screw it down. In my opionion 2" TC with the stilldragon housing is the way to go for elements.

what size cord are you using? I was told here that 12/3 is the correct size rated for a 5500w or smaller element. its rated for 25a (especially at the short lengths we use) and the element draws 22-23 max. and it is NOT a continuous load (100% for over 3 hrs) so the 80% rule does not apply here.
I used 10/4 s00w on my first build and it was way to thick and stiff to work well, switched to 12/3 and I had no increase in temps on the wire with my infra red temp gun or to the touch plus everything fits and moves as it should. (I also only use 4500w elements though with only 18-18.6 amp draw).

Edit I cant seem to find any specs for 12/3 s00w wire running 240v specifically... I remember the soow wire having a higher amp rating that the same sized romex wire though. I assume its just rated at 25A for up to 600v....
http://www.wesbellwireandcable.com/PortableCord.html

 

[orangehero]

Usually 12/3 is rated to 20A, but I'm no expert on all the amperage ratings. My cannibalized 12/3 extension cords running 18A do get pretty warm. I use 10/3 for 5500W elements, which is what theelectricbrewery.com recommends.

I have a Stout boil kettle with a 2" TC ferrule for the element.

 

[fhhobbies]

My welds and threads cam apart on the old ones, he sent me the newest ones and same thing sadly..... Had to silver solder them together then tape the can closed.


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[kchomebrew]

Usually 12/3 is rated to 20A, but I'm no expert on all the amperage ratings. My cannibalized 12/3 extension cords running 18A do get pretty warm. I use 10/3 for 5500W elements, which is what theelectricbrewery.com recommends.

I have a Stout boil kettle with a 2" TC ferrule for the element.

Orange hero, can you post some photos of what your kettles and TC fittings look like and also the element in the kettle ? Like Roadie, I didn't know that the 2" TC element port fr still dragon would work with the stout tanks.


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[augiedoggy]

Usually 12/3 is rated to 20A, but I'm no expert on all the amperage ratings. My cannibalized 12/3 extension cords running 18A do get pretty warm. I use 10/3 for 5500W elements, which is what theelectricbrewery.com recommends.

I have a Stout boil kettle with a 2" TC ferrule for the element.

Not Soow.
12/3 soow is rated for 25a and up to 600v. I checked about a dozen different sites last night.. solid core romex 12awg is only rated for 20a
most standard utility extension cords are 14/3 and only rated for like 12 amps and even fewer of them actually use soow wire....also I believe there is some clause to extension cords which makes them rated for less than permanently mounted appliance cords...

 

[rekoob]

Vary nice build. Thanks for posting all the good info.

 

[Roadie]

Orange hero, can you post some photos of what your kettles and TC fittings look like and also the element in the kettle ? Like Roadie, I didn't know that the 2" TC element port fr still dragon would work with the stout tanks.

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I'm pretty sure Orange has stout kettles but he may have did a custom order to get the 2 inch ferrules. My order was custom but I didn't go larger than standard on those.


Almost Famous Brewing Company

 

[kchomebrew]

Bought the 5500 watt elements from Brew Hardware. All stainless. You can see that the base is stainless. Have the housing adapters from Brewers Hardware arriving maybe tomorrow. If so will be wiring and testing out this weekend.


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[highland_brewer]

Roadie, NICE setup.. I agree that tile is a PITA.. but well worth it. Job WELL DONE!

 

[Roadie]

Bought the 5500 watt elements from Brew Hardware. All stainless. You can see that the base is stainless. Have the housing adapters from Brewers Hardware arriving maybe tomorrow. If so will be wiring and testing out this weekend. View attachment 235964View attachment 235965


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The issue with those is that they are now ULWD with that foldback design. It sure would rectify any issues of touching the side of the kettle though!

 

[augiedoggy]

The issue with those is that they are NOT ULWD with that foldback design. It sure would rectify any issues of touching the side of the kettle though!

They would work well at 120v in a rims setup but I would be nervous myself using them without an ssvr to cut output in a 240v setup for a rims or even a boil kettle... for the HLT they would work great.

 

[Rivenin]

They would work well at 120v in a rims setup but I would be nervous myself using them without an ssvr to cut output in a 240v setup for a rims or even a boil kettle... for the HLT they would work great.

i have a LWD non foldback 4500w in my kettle. Brewed a blonde a few weeks and and it's tasting fine... i wouldn't worry about that element

 

[augiedoggy]

i have a LWD non foldback 4500w in my kettle. Brewed a blonde a few weeks and and it's tasting fine... i wouldn't worry about that element

Thats with a blond... The heavier beers with most proteins are the ones that are more likely to scorch against the elements. if your element is really a 4500w lwd non fold back model it would be about 21-23" long and I dont see how that would fit in your kettle? are you confusing the foldback with a ripple? here is a foldback http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...me-Life-LWD-Fold-Back-Element-15011/205680993.
The non fold back elements are actually HIGH watt density and not a good choice at all for a boil kettle... like this one http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-45...-Density-Water-Heater-Element-15915/204220141

 

[Rivenin]

Thats with a blond... The heavier beers with most proteins are the ones that are more likely to scorch against the elements. if your element is really a 4500w lwd non fold back model it would be about 21-23" long and I dont see how that would fit in your kettle? are you confusing the foldback with a ripple? here is a foldback http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...me-Life-LWD-Fold-Back-Element-15011/205680993.
The non fold back elements are actually HIGH watt density and not a good choice at all for a boil kettle... like this one http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-45...-Density-Water-Heater-Element-15915/204220141

Sorry. Totally was on a different train of thought when i typed that .
it IS a fold back LWD element.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLVC6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
this one.
i had 2x2000w HWD elements running at 100% on both for awhile and never had any issues and had beers ranging from like 1.040 upwards of 1.090 stout /barleywines and IPAs.

Just saying to not fear the HWD elements, unless you've personally had an issue with them...or you're doing BIAB where the bag is resting on the element... i've never had an issue before... not saying they couldn't occur? but in the while i've had the HWD elements before, it was fine for all the beers i've made.

 

[kchomebrew]

I've brewed plenty of batches with the elements and zero Scorching. Stouts, porters, ipAs, Saisons, etc. No problem. Scorching wort is a myth.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

I've brewed plenty of batches with the elements and zero Scorching. Stouts, porters, ipAs, Saisons, etc. No problem. Scorching wort is a myth.

It happens under certain conditions, especially with recirculating eBIAB and RIMS. If wort is restricted around an element scorching will happen quickly. Shouldn't happen during the boil though, but even then it never hurts to stir once in a while.