Looking for a 1.5" Triclover Weldless Bulkhead

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WiscBadger

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Hello,

I am working on a couple 15 gallon Ace Roto plastic conical tank to use as fermenters.

I am looking for a SS 1.5" Triclover Weldless bulkhead to use on them for a racking arm and sampling valve.

If anyone can link a place to purchase it would be appreciated.

Thank you!!
 
Any other input or is the above link the only option? And other 1.5" triclover weldless bulkheads out there?
 
The one you posted seems like overkill. Not playing favorites, but I like the option i presented. With my option you could just get a sampling valve and or racking arm via triclover and attach it. That would keep your price down. Brewers Hardware also carries that as well.
 
That is why I was wondering if anyone knew if a cheaper option then the one I posted.
 
Thank you for all your help and feedback. Gaskets seem to be easy to find but I have not had much luck finding a nut that will fit this. Any ideas?

I think standard plumbing drains are 1.5" NPS and stainless- I bet that would fit.
 
Question....and I admit I don't know but throwing it out there for consideration....npt is tapered correct, so I Am having a hard time seeing how that thread goes through a kettle wall and the nut gets tight enough to compress a oring. Wouldn't you have to use one of Brewers hardware standard npt bulkheads through the wall and then just use the npt-tri clover adapter?
 
I have a 1.5" weldless TC in prototyping phase right now. I expect my first sample in by tomorrow and if it works, I'll have a couple hundred in 3 weeks.

That's great! I'm surprised there is not more options out there. Let me know! I'm interested. Have you determined pricing yet?
 
Yes they have a 1-3/8" bore, standard for 1.5" TC. It looks pretty good. Needs a couple of adjustments but not too bad.

20151228_172418[1].jpg
 
I just got all new kettles with 1.5 tri clover ball valves Etc. I wanted welded and frankly liked the look. I do however sit back and laugh at myself for wanting 1.5" fittings then simply reducing them down to .5" with my cam locks.
 
I just got all new kettles with 1.5 tri clover ball valves Etc. I wanted welded and frankly liked the look. I do however sit back and laugh at myself for wanting 1.5" fittings then simply reducing them down to .5" with my cam locks.

I use 1/2" on my kettles but these are for 15 gallon conical racking arms I'm putting together. I'm using racking arms with a 1 3/8" plug that fits inside the bulkhead and a 1 1/2" TC sampling valve to fill my cornies.
 
Yes they have a 1-3/8" bore, standard for 1.5" TC. It looks pretty good. Needs a couple of adjustments but not too bad.
Wish I had seen this post before ordering my weld on TC element kit and solder, I would have held off since I haven't installed what I have :(
 
You can return unused gear if you want. These are in production right now and I hope to see them in 3 weeks. The tricky part was finding the inexpensive socket to turn the big locknut.
 
You can return unused gear if you want. These are in production right now and I hope to see them in 3 weeks. The tricky part was finding the inexpensive socket to turn the big locknut.


Thanks Bobby. I may do that if I don't get this hole punched out and soldered on by the time these are available. I'm in no rush. Still need to run 220 and wire the controls
 
They are in! Unfortunately the pricing was higher than I expected but I may be able to get it down a few bucks once I ramp up quantities. I think the biggest challenge is making the 1-5/8" hole. I have a punch, but if I'm going to rent/loan it out, I'll need more than one.



TC15WLF-4T.jpg


TC15WLF-5T.jpg


Socket for installing:
TC15WLF-3T.jpg
 
Very slick. I got my weld on piece taken care of after the first attempt leaked. Friend gave me some thicker solder, recommended I bend it into a circle and set the TC fitting on the solder and heat the kettle and TC fitting and the fitting fell straight down, didn't even need to tap it to line it up. Thanks for offering to exchange what I had for this new product. I would have went weldless had this been available at that time.

12631427_10154504987208662_635015351596690522_n.jpg
 
They are in! Unfortunately the pricing was higher than I expected but I may be able to get it down a few bucks once I ramp up quantities. I think the biggest challenge is making the 1-5/8" hole. I have a punch, but if I'm going to rent/loan it out, I'll need more than one.

Excellent - and not any longer than it needs to be. Is there any prospect of a 2" version that could take a ripple element btw?

I used the Still Dragon 2" weldless TC flange last week to install your ripple element in a Bayou Classic kettle. I went with TC because I needed the extra length to fit the element in the 13.5" kettle. Unfortunately the Still Dragon weldless TC is about 3/4" longer than it needs to be on the inside of the kettle, which means it's only possible to get the ripple element through after bending it a bit, and then the folded back end is very likely to touch the fitting, unless you bend it exactly right. Even without it touching, I'm a little concerned about possible scorching in the enclosed space around the folded back end of the element, but we'll see how that goes this weekend.

I eventually got it to work after an hour or so of very careful bending, but if you can come up with a shorter weldless TC fitting, it'll be a very attractive - I'd certainly swap mine out (and move it to the HLT which I'll build later), or swap to a soldered TC flange.

Obviously your straight element with the offset would've worked fine, and have been a much easier job to install. A shorter weldless TC fitting would also have made it much easier though, as I wouldn't have had to open out the bends in the element to get it through the fitting.

It was pretty easy to tighten the Still Dragon fitting enough to get a good seal, even on this narrow diameter kettle, with a couple of harbor freight strap wrenches, so you don't necessarily need the socket.
 
I can get the ripple element through this 1.5" no problem and no contact.

Bah, wish I knew about this a week ago then! Now I've got a 2" hole in my kettle. Guess I'll take the Still Dragon fitting to work and machine it down (We have a little workshop with a mill, lathe, jig borer etc.). Or learn to silver solder.

Anyway, it's probably worth mentioning with the element/element kits that this will let you get a ripple element into a cheap 11 gal Bayou Classic kettle and the equally cheap Homebrewstuff type 8 gallon kettles, which are both 13.5" diameter, without bending the element, and without soldering or welding. Hardest part of the job for me was drilling the pilot hole for the punch (also borrowed from work).
 
Holy crap these are awesome. I know this because i want one even though i don't have a use for it. I definitely would have picked one of these up if they were available when i did up my aluminum pot.

Nice job Bobby.
 
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